Focus Points and E1 vs 10D or 300d/Digital Rebel

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John Mason

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I saw some odd comments in another thread about focus points on the E1 being better than on the Canon. Here are some of my thoughts on the E1 vs the Canon line since I'm in both camps.

I'm interested in the E1 as a backup camera to my 1Ds. I also have a E10 and a D60. The E10 got me into digital photography and out of my older film stuff. I'm an Olympus user from way back from Pen F SLR 1/2 frame days and had a Om1 and Om2. I really would like Olympus to succeed with this camera.

I only say the above so that when I explain why the focus points on the E1 are not as good as on the canon people will understand that I'm not slamming the E1 but hoping they correct this issue.

On the 1Ds you have 45 different focus areas. You can deslect some or all of them and have lots of control. The thing that is VERY nice that the E1 does not have is that whatever focus spot the camera has decided to use for its focus point it lights that focus point on. Now, if the photographer disagrees with this you can on the higher end canon lenses shift the focus slightly forward or back. So lets say the focus point is on the person's noise, not only do you know the camera used the nose, but you can easily shift the focus to the person's eyes.

Contrast this to the E1 which has large focus points and does not indicate in the viewfinder in any fashion whatsoever what focus point the E1 has decided to use. Is it the closest point? Is it the point in the back with more contrast? This is a major oversite. The Olympus response is the indicator light would have been distracting. Of course, that's just an excuse.

I still may get an E1 but if I do I will certainly turn off all but the center focus point and go back to the older way of focusing of reframming before the shot.

Bottom line is what is the point of multiple focus points where the camera picks the focus point automatically when you can't confirm which one it picked.

The 10D has 7 focus points instead of 45 as does the 300d/Digital Rebel. They are selectable and indicate where the focus is. Many people have talked about a focus error in the 10D. If they alignment is off, as a small percentage are, canon - at least canon USA will recalibrate either the lens or the camera so it is correct. It stinks that the quality control isn't better, but any forum will exagerate any problem as the ones with problems will ask their questions or complain. Informal survey's on the canon forum show the actual percentage of off focusing cameras is quite small.

So, in regard to focus points, canon does have the upper hand.

The cost issue though, overall I would buy an E1 over a 10d. The image sharpness and the dynamic range seem better in what I'm seeing in the samples than the 10d. The accuracy of the base lens of its wide angle is really impressive. People need to compare apples to apples. The Olympus lenses are like Canon's L glass and in some cases better. They don't have IS, but the 28-135is lens from canon (which I have) doesn't take a candle to my 3 canon L lenses in contrast and color accuracy or wide open sharpness (it's not bad stopped down a bit but that still leaves the color/contrast issues)

The E1 is also a pro camera with it's speed, and weather sealing. A 300d is not the competitor here. Olympus doesn't have a competitor there yet. Maybe when they make a plastic E1 and lower the speed a bit, then they will have a competitor. They will also need a low end lens like the base lens for the 300d.

Then there is the dust. Ah - the dust. If it turns out that the E1 shaker actually works, that's way up there as a time eater in a pro camera situation.

To those comparing lens costs don't forget to compare maximum light gathering as I've seen some posts comparing not-comparable lenses to the Olympus. Once you get the apeture and the angle of view coverange the same all of the olympus lenses are quite a bit smaller than their canon counterparts.

I've seen others state (like the MR review) that this is a flash in the pan camera like 1/2 frames were. I think the more accurate issue here is if you can have a pro camera with pro lenses that costs less and is sharper and gives you enough of a negative for the jobs intended purpose why would you not pick the E1. Yes, imagers will become larger at lower cost, but why lug around the big lenses needlessly.

I think I've just about convinced myself to get an E1!
--
John Mason - Lafayette, IN
 
Hi,

My 2 cents on focus points...

Just to be clear on the focus point indication. There IS an indicator in the lower left hand corner of the E-1 viewfinder that lets the user know which focus point has been manually selected. The point itself doesn't glow red, but there is an indicator.

As a pro for the past 12 years, I have always preferred to choose my focus point as opposed to letting the camera pick it for me. My current film based 35mm is a pair of F100s with 5 illuminating focus points to choose from via the "joy stick" on the back of the camera. The E-1 requires me to push a button and turn a wheel - not as convenient to reselecting points via the "stick", but I'm sure that with a bit of practice it will not be any problem - as we all have to get used to the equipment in our hands.

Lastly, while my F100 is on autofocus, I can not fine tune the focus manually. I would have to switch to manual focus mode to turn the focus ring on the lens. A nice feature of the E-1 is the ability to fine tune focus manually after the autofocus has done it's job (if its even neccessary) - this may be a feature found on Canon's L lenses - I have no experience with Canon gear. I have found the autofocus on both the 14-54 and the 50-200 fast, quiet, and accurate.

Best,

Todd
 
Yes - you can see which one you picked manually and you can get an indicator light when focus is acheived. The nit pic, perhaps, is in auto mode the viewfinder does not show which one is selected.

By picking which one you want - eyes in vertical mode vs center - this would not be a problem.

--
John Mason - Lafayette, IN
 
Maybe they can update it with a coming Bios, so you can see wich one was chosen even in automatic.
How does the indicator look, if you manually set it?

From what I read here so far, the focus lock can be moved from the half pressed shutter button to the ae-lock button.

Maybe they could even make it more flexible: the shutter button for the center and the ae-lock for either one you preselect from the other two, or the automatic chosen one from those two.

The settings for the E-1 seem to be very adjustable allready, maybe they can make it even more flexible, if they read the forums and people here (and in other forums) mention, what they would like to see.
 
How does the indicator look, if you manually set it?
There are three tiny dots to the right of the bigger focus dot in the lower left corner of the finder.

In auto mode all three dots light up. If you have selected a focus point manually, the corresponding dot lights up.

Jorgen
 
we have already seen a post by an E1 owner stating that the autofocus was not doing a great job (i think it was at a bike race.)

Compares to the E10/20 I think the E1 is prob. quite good. But for a camera that advertises itself as "pro," three focus points which are not even indicated in the viewfinder as to their actual location is very very very weak design. The 10d has 7. The way they light up is part of what I called refined design a long long time ago. But the 10d is not "pro."

Pick up a 1d(s) and see what an incredible atofocus a "pro" camera shpud have.

The E1, like all cameras, has weak points. The lack of autofocus indication to me is one of the most serious which does not get mentioned much. I think mainly because any discussion of th E1 has been attacked by people who insist it is the best camera with the best body and best features and best lenses etc etc etc with a small problem of noise at high iso which you do not need to use any way.

but waht do i know?

http://www.waddo.net

keith
 
Have you not looked at the viewfinder? The focus point selection is indicated in the lower left corner of the viewfinder. Or are you still looking for the camera to pick it for you, and then tell you which one it picked? In that case why do you care? At that point you've given over control of your image to a computer anyway?

Let's get it straight: The focus points are indicated in the viewfinder, lower left corner.

Best,

Todd
but waht do i know?

http://www.waddo.net

keith
 
As you well know this does not show its real location. Use the cnetre gocus point. Take a portrait shot. Are you focuses ong the tip of the nose or the eyes? You simply do not know. This is not a "pro" level implimentation.

But I dont want to get into another argument, so fell free to believe what ever you want.

http://www.waddo.net

Keith
 
When the AF indicarors light up in the viewfinder of my Canon (film) SLR, all they tell me is which of the sensors reported focus; the same information I would get from the indicators lights in the E-1 viewfinder once I know where my AF regions are. As tests in Popular Photography show, the alignment of the indicator lights with actual AF regions is often not very precise, so they will not tell me which nostril is in sharp focus, or whatever.

Possibly, not having the glowing red rectange in the way would make it easier for photographers to see for themselves exactly where the focus is. I have not had the chance to try this out on an E-1.
 
When the AF indicarors light up in the viewfinder of my Canon
(film) SLR, all they tell me is which of the sensors reported
focus; the same information I would get from the indicators lights
in the E-1 viewfinder once I know where my AF regions are. As tests
in Popular Photography show, the alignment of the indicator lights
with actual AF regions is often not very precise, so they will not
tell me which nostril is in sharp focus, or whatever.
Possibly, not having the glowing red rectange in the way would make
it easier for photographers to see for themselves exactly where the
focus is. I have not had the chance to try this out on an E-1.
 
Hey Keef,

No argument intended...just discussing your post. :-)

Best,

Todd
As you well know this does not show its real location. Use the
cnetre gocus point. Take a portrait shot. Are you focuses ong the
tip of the nose or the eyes? You simply do not know. This is not a
"pro" level implimentation.

But I dont want to get into another argument, so fell free to
believe what ever you want.

http://www.waddo.net

Keith
 
You know where the focus point is if you bloody well point the center focus point where you want to focus! If you select the center focus point, center it on the subject's eye (which ever one is more important to you), half-press the release button and recompose you'll get a great shot. I've done this for years with EVERY camera I've owned, the E-1 is no different. Don't expect the camera to do everything for you. especially figure out where your subject's eyes are!
As you well know this does not show its real location. Use the
cnetre gocus point. Take a portrait shot. Are you focuses ong the
tip of the nose or the eyes? You simply do not know. This is not a
"pro" level implimentation.

But I dont want to get into another argument, so fell free to
believe what ever you want.

http://www.waddo.net

Keith
 

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