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It's a common problem with film rangefinder camera lenses used on digital sensors. The lenses aren't designed for the thickness of the various UV / IR / Bayer array / anti-aliasing filters and microlenses in front of the sensor. It's worse with wideangles - I bought a fast 35mm lens and sent it straight back as not fit for purpose because of this. You might be able to set up a profile or a recipe or Action to take care of this, but it was too much trouble for me, as it probably varies with the aperture set and there's no EXIF data to record that automatically. The RF 50mm isn't that much bigger and is definitely worth the extra 100 for the autofocus, camera control of the iris and the EXIF data.
Is this problem more of an issue with full-frame sensors or also with smaller sensors (i.e., APS-C or MFT)? I've been wanting to experiment with vintage lenses so maybe I can get away with smaller sensors...It's a common problem with film rangefinder camera lenses used on digital sensors. The lenses aren't designed for the thickness of the various UV / IR / Bayer array / anti-aliasing filters and microlenses in front of the sensor. It's worse with wideangles - I bought a fast 35mm lens and sent it straight back as not fit for purpose because of this. You might be able to set up a profile or a recipe or Action to take care of this, but it was too much trouble for me, as it probably varies with the aperture set and there's no EXIF data to record that automatically. The RF 50mm isn't that much bigger and is definitely worth the extra 100 for the autofocus, camera control of the iris and the EXIF data.Hi, I recently bought the RF-mount version of the TTArtisan 50mm F2 and used it on my RP. Does anybody else have this problem of having magenta-colored vignetting? How does one fix it in camera and/or in post-processing? Thanks in advance!
It's a function of the the angle of incidence of the light hitting the sensor and the thickness of the filter pack, so it should be better with cropping. Vintage SLR lenses suffer a lot less as the wideangles had to be retrofocus to clear the mirror. My Jupiter 8 (Sonnar copy) has magenta vignetting at f/16 on my EOS R which is there, but more diffuse, at f/2 where the natural vignetting is noticeable. No problems in crop format or with my EOS M cameras. No problems with the Jupiter 9 on full-frame either. Try lurking on the Adapted Lenses forum. Welcome to this one, by the way.Is this problem more of an issue with full-frame sensors or also with smaller sensors (i.e., APS-C or MFT)? I've been wanting to experiment with vintage lenses so maybe I can get away with smaller sensors...It's a common problem with film rangefinder camera lenses used on digital sensors. The lenses aren't designed for the thickness of the various UV / IR / Bayer array / anti-aliasing filters and microlenses in front of the sensor. It's worse with wideangles - I bought a fast 35mm lens and sent it straight back as not fit for purpose because of this. You might be able to set up a profile or a recipe or Action to take care of this, but it was too much trouble for me, as it probably varies with the aperture set and there's no EXIF data to record that automatically. The RF 50mm isn't that much bigger and is definitely worth the extra 100 for the autofocus, camera control of the iris and the EXIF data.Hi, I recently bought the RF-mount version of the TTArtisan 50mm F2 and used it on my RP. Does anybody else have this problem of having magenta-colored vignetting? How does one fix it in camera and/or in post-processing? Thanks in advance!
To fix it, you could do a “light frame” with a diffuser over the lens, and using layers, subtract it. That would eliminate both the vignette and the magenta cast. You would need to do a new one for each aperture. Personally I wouldn’t find it worth the trouble, and would try a different lens.
Thank you for the welcome and the hints! I was already thinking of buying another smaller sensor camera just for experimenting with this kind of lenses but then I realized that the RP has an option to use capture pictures in crop format. I just tried it with the TTArtisan lens and it worked like a charm!It's a function of the the angle of incidence of the light hitting the sensor and the thickness of the filter pack, so it should be better with cropping. Vintage SLR lenses suffer a lot less as the wideangles had to be retrofocus to clear the mirror. My Jupiter 8 (Sonnar copy) has magenta vignetting at f/16 on my EOS R which is there, but more diffuse, at f/2 where the natural vignetting is noticeable. No problems in crop format or with my EOS M cameras. No problems with the Jupiter 9 on full-frame either. Try lurking on the Adapted Lenses forum. Welcome to this one, by the way.Is this problem more of an issue with full-frame sensors or also with smaller sensors (i.e., APS-C or MFT)? I've been wanting to experiment with vintage lenses so maybe I can get away with smaller sensors...It's a common problem with film rangefinder camera lenses used on digital sensors. The lenses aren't designed for the thickness of the various UV / IR / Bayer array / anti-aliasing filters and microlenses in front of the sensor. It's worse with wideangles - I bought a fast 35mm lens and sent it straight back as not fit for purpose because of this. You might be able to set up a profile or a recipe or Action to take care of this, but it was too much trouble for me, as it probably varies with the aperture set and there's no EXIF data to record that automatically. The RF 50mm isn't that much bigger and is definitely worth the extra 100 for the autofocus, camera control of the iris and the EXIF data.Hi, I recently bought the RF-mount version of the TTArtisan 50mm F2 and used it on my RP. Does anybody else have this problem of having magenta-colored vignetting? How does one fix it in camera and/or in post-processing? Thanks in advance!
Yeah, I also did some googling and this solution came up in one of the results. And I agree that it's not worth the trouble. Fortunately, I was able to find a workaround as I mentioned above. I changed my settings to capture in crop format and now both the normal and magenta vignetting are (almost) gone!To fix it, you could do a “light frame” with a diffuser over the lens, and using layers, subtract it. That would eliminate both the vignette and the magenta cast. You would need to do a new one for each aperture. Personally I wouldn’t find it worth the trouble, and would try a different lens.Hi, I recently bought the RF-mount version of the TTArtisan 50mm F2 and used it on my RP. Does anybody else have this problem of having magenta-colored vignetting? How does one fix it in camera and/or in post-processing? Thanks in advance!