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Yes, however the camera won't lock focus with a half press of the shutter button. You would need to use AF-L to lock focus when using AF-C. I think this is why there is a preference for AF-S for some (such as me) depending on the kind of photography they do.You can still use single point and focus wherever you want it to focus in AF-C. The camera won't change this.I don't have a use case for AF-C, my subjects are almost never moving. It just does not feel right to me to leave it up to the camera to change the focus point on a whim. I also don't like the feeling that the camera is "still working" after I have half pressed the shutter button.
In any situation where something really needs to in focus, I almost never focus and recompose, it just isn’t accurate. If you need to work quickly without moving the focus box around yourself, try AF-C Wide Tracking - half press on the desired AF point and recompose (with the AF remaining stuck on the subject), it can work quite well in chaotic situations - especially with newer cameras.Wow, I didn't expect so many folks would be using AF-S as their main setting. Thank you for all the feedback.
I mainly shoot wildlife, my two year old, and street photography. It has been quite the journey of experimentation with autofocus when it comes to wildlife. AF-C hasn't been so kind to me. For example, when shooting a kingfisher flying across a lake (where I'm panning and have him in my 3x3 zone) yet focus isn't being acquired. Another infuriating moment is when I was on a tripod, shooting a big blue heron fishing. I would get beautiful static shots but just as I see they are about to plunge their head into the water, my AF-C would completely lose focus. I need eye tracking, but that is a topic for another day. I've tried using AF range limiters with limited success. Don't get me wrong, I get great shots, but I feel like I'm pushing my handholding/panning techniques to the extremes and not getting consistent results.
I've read in many of your comments that you feel AF-S provides for better AF performance over AF-C on that initial AF lock. Is there any way to objectively measure that? I do agree that for most photography a simple focus and recompose technique is much faster than fiddling with the AF joystick (when time is more of the essence).
If you know where your moving subject is going to be ahead of time, it’s wise get the AF in the ballpark first with a quick half-press and release of the shutter button or BBF button (I use the rear command dial button). If the AF is already close from the get-go, focus acquisition is going to happen much faster (pretty much mandatory with an old slowpoke lens).A few minutes ago I tried one of your suggestions to use AF-S and quickly press the shutter button down to get a quick capture. Before doing so, I focused on something in the distance in order to see if the focus would snap back onto the high contrast object I setup in front. When focusing into the distance and quickly pressing the shutter button, I was able to get a sharp image of my object (it would quickly refocus). When pre-focusing at minimum focusing distance, the camera/lens was not able to get a sharp shot. I guess it could depend on how "fast" you are pressing the shutter button.
A smooth full-press squeeze works fine. No more jerky than a press from the half position, IMO.My only concern with this technique is the camera shake that is introduced by NOT half-pressing and acquiring focus and then gently fully pressing the shutter.
It’s usually best to use as large an AF box as you can get away with (to quickly lock on something with contrast on the same plane as the desired focus point), especially in low light or with distant isolated subjects. If you’re having issues with the AF “hunting” or hesitating, bumping up the box one size will usually do the trick (in all AF modes). I usually only use the smallest size box at very close range and a wide aperture where the DOF is razor thin and I want to avoid focusing on a peripheral detail (like an eyebrow). For birds in flight, try the largest single point box or one of the larger zone boxes - whether AF-S or AF-C, a full-press of the shutter button still usually results in sharper result in my experience with the older cameras (though I’m no bird photographer by any stretch). At close range, it seems that Zone AF focuses only on peripheral details. YMMV. Ultimately, you will have to experiment and figure out what works best for what doing. I’m just describing what I’ve found that works best for me.My take away from all of this is to try AF-S again (especially with wildlife) but not birds in flight. I should be able to use the smallest AF point possible and using my SUPERB :-D hand holding skills to focus on the eye of the animal.
Absolutely correct Oregon DawgYes, however the camera won't lock focus with a half press of the shutter button. You would need to use AF-L to lock focus when using AF-C. I think this is why there is a preference for AF-S for some (such as me) depending on the kind of photography they do.You can still use single point and focus wherever you want it to focus in AF-C. The camera won't change this.I don't have a use case for AF-C, my subjects are almost never moving. It just does not feel right to me to leave it up to the camera to change the focus point on a whim. I also don't like the feeling that the camera is "still working" after I have half pressed the shutter button.
I'm one of the people that uses only af-s. Most of my subjects move (not action, but people walking, people at the market...) and the af-c is a piece of ** on my x-pro2. With af-c, the focus is correct less than 20% of the time.Yes, however the camera won't lock focus with a half press of the shutter button. You would need to use AF-L to lock focus when using AF-C. I think this is why there is a preference for AF-S for some (such as me) depending on the kind of photography they do.
Exactly as I do on ALL of my cameras, even when shooting video.I don't know if I have a "case", but I use AF-S exclusively. And the center focus point, too.
QED.Af-c is only annoying if the camera’s af-c system is not reliable
Huh? Control of the AF point has nothing to do with AF-S versus AF-C. I use AF-C all of the time with a single AF point fixed in my chosen location.Another almost exclusive AF-S user. Maybe behind the times, but it’s a control issue. More personal control over my focus point.
Starting with the X-T2, and now X-T3, BBF with AF-C is all I use for everything.To my way of thinking, it’s more like …Why would anyone want to primarily use anything but AF-S?Hey guys,
Over the years, my camera workflow has evolved. At this point in time, I'm wondering if anyone has a good use case for AF-S on their Fuji bodies. Starting with the XT3, AF performance has improved drastically and we have our entire sensor covered with AF points. If you configured back button focus (BBF) and used that when in manual mode, what use case do you have to ever be in AF-S?
In my current setup, I live in AF-C and switch over to Manual focus mode when AF-C is having issues (birds with tons of branches around). If I need to quickly rely on autofocus, I press the back button I configured for autofocus and I'm on my merry way.
What use case am I missing here to ever use AF-S again?
I occasionally use manual focus with magnification for critical focusing on a single detail, or with peaking for optimizing focus for landscapes, but otherwise I use AF-S for almost everything.
I find AF-S (on the shutter button) to deliver far snappier and more accurate results than AF-C for just about anything I shoot (including moving subjects). I haven't shot with the very newest cameras yet (which seem to have some very effective focus tracking options), but I'm not missing focus much now with good old X-T2, X-T20, and X100V.
I do use AF-C occasionally, but far less often than AF-S or M.
Except for in M mode (which I use quite often), i find BBF to be especially poorly implemented on Fuji cameras and never use it.
I am using also an EM1.3 and there I have totally changed to AFC because its AFS isn't as precise!! On the other hand XT3 AFS is usually very accurate.Hey guys,
Over the years, my camera workflow has evolved. At this point in time, I'm wondering if anyone has a good use case for AF-S on their Fuji bodies. Starting with the XT3, AF performance has improved drastically and we have our entire sensor covered with AF points. If you configured back button focus (BBF) and used that when in manual mode, what use case do you have to ever be in AF-S?
In my current setup, I live in AF-C and switch over to Manual focus mode when AF-C is having issues (birds with tons of branches around). If I need to quickly rely on autofocus, I press the back button I configured for autofocus and I'm on my merry way.
What use case am I missing here to ever use AF-S again?
Me too.I don't know if I have a "case", but I use AF-S exclusively. And the center focus point, too.