A recent visit to Ranthambore National Park in India Part 1- My first time visit

Well, I just didn't set any expectation since it was almost like last minute decision. I delayed my return flight from my business trip to save about $2,000 difference in flight cost. It is getting a lot more expensive these days.

Anyhow, I made a few trips one in the afternoon (zone 2) and one in the morning (zone 3) and was super lucky to run into four different tigers. I didn't know what to expect so I only had my 300mm F4 and 200mm F2.8. I wished my OM-1 when first delivered late April wasn't DOA!

One tigress her name is Sultana, I couldn't take any photos since she was way deep inside the bushes. I definitely would do one full day or two full half day next time but will have to book early. Doing so, you aren't limited to just one designated zone and free to roam wherever giving a better chances of the encounter. You also get to enter half an hour early and leave half an hour later.


Junior Indu aka T-60, one of the tigresses in zone 2. She was laying down in the water hole with lots of vehicles crowded around the area. I was lucky that my guide told the driver to stay put and away from the crowd. Sure enough, when she got up, she came my way head on. I and one other car only had this chance seeing her walking straight at us for good 15mins. My first ever seeing tiger in wild was pretty much like a dream comes true!!!


Marking her territory.




Royal walk...


A male tiger and his name is Badal aka T-101. He is one of the dominant males in zone 2. This was just about as sunset. The most challenging thing beside the lack of light had to do with dusting as lots of cars trying to chase the big cat.


I should mention that we waited for close to an hour while listening to his road echoing around the mountain, jungle. I was super glad that he decided to get up and start strolling along just before our time was up.


Keep on strolling


The big cat put a good show for great 6-8 minutes before he decided to went deeper into that mountain range jungle.

These are fantastic! I'd have to park my inclination to disappear from a tiger's gaze.

Cheers,

Rick

That was awsome! What a sight!

Where is this National Park? (I assume in India, but where?)

Pedagydusz said:

That was awsome! What a sight!

Where is this National Park? (I assume in India, but where?)

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It is about 3 hours drive from Jaipur and the closest town right next to the NP is called Sawai Madhopur.

Skeeterbytes said:

These are fantastic! I'd have to park my inclination to disappear from a tiger's gaze.

Cheers,

Rick

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Looking straight into theirs yes is something for sure. Of course, when I was shooting, there was hardly anytime to think or to notice any of these eyes, LPL/ The cats kept moving and the car kept moving that late afternoon/early morning 90% of the time.

First off, seeing a thread about tigers makes me happier than you can imagine. I have only been to Ranthambore once (growing up in central India, I had plenty of tiger habitat an hour's drive away), and I was stunned at the beauty of the place. Crowding and those infernal canters (open-top buses) aside, the rugged cliffs, cacti, arid plains interspersed with bountiful lakes and forested gorges was something I had never experienced before.

Doxa750 said:

Well, I just didn't set any expectation since it was almost like last minute decision. I delayed my return flight from my business trip to save about $2,000 difference in flight cost. It is getting a lot more expensive these days.

Anyhow, I made a few trips one in the afternoon (zone 2) and one in the morning (zone 3) and was super lucky to run into four different tigers. I didn't know what to expect so I only had my 300mm F4 and 200mm F2.8. I wished my OM-1 when first delivered late April wasn't DOA!

Click to expand...

You do not seem to have done too badly without Animal AI! And I think that between those two primes, you had everything you needed, assuming you had one wide-angle zoom as well.

When I visited, I only had my first MFT camera - E-PL3 and 14-42mm R (purchased in the States - MFT gear was impossible to find locally then), so you did a lot better than I.

Doxa750 said:

One tigress her name is Sultana, I couldn't take any photos since she was way deep inside the bushes.

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Sultana (Princess) is the daughter of Noor (Light) and a very special tiger named T-24 Ustaad (Expert). T-24 enjoyed watching people - during the annual pilgrimage to the temple at Ranthambore castle, he was often seen sprawled out in the open, close to the pedestrian path, watching brightly decked pilgrims pass by.

When I visited, I saw him sleeping next to a small creek. Another jeep got too close and got stuck in the sand, barely 20 feet from him. The jeep whirred its motors but could not get out. Some other drivers and naturalists got out, lifted the jeep on one side so it could get unstuck. In all this noise and activity, Ustaad remained totally unconcerned.

Sadly, he did have run-ins with local people who would not see him and got too close, and killed 3 people (did not hunt them). These were ruled as accidental deaths, but he then killed a forest guard who had known him since he was a cub. In India a tiger gets 4 chances when they kill people, and this one was considered to be a deliberate act, and he was deemed to be a threat. So he was captured and is now spending his years incarcerated in a zoo. Tragic all around.

Doxa750 said:

I definitely would do one full day or two full half day next time but will have to book early. Doing so, you aren't limited to just one designated zone and free to roam wherever giving a better chances of the encounter. You also get to enter half an hour early and leave half an hour later.

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Please keep in mind that you'll want to carry LOTS of water to avoid heatstroke. Also animals are mostly active in mornings and evenings because of the heat, so you won't get to see much for most of the day, except perhaps for raptors.

But the big advantage of a day pass is, as you noted, not being restricted to one zone. They also tend to be a lot pricier than two half-day passes because they're usually used by professional film crews, but that might not be a concern for you.

Doxa750 said:

Junior Indu aka T-60, one of the tigresses in zone 2. She was laying down in the water hole with lots of vehicles crowded around the area. I was lucky that my guide told the driver to stay put and away from the crowd. Sure enough, when she got up, she came my way head on. I and one other car only had this chance seeing her walking straight at us for good 15mins. My first ever seeing tiger in wild was pretty much like a dream comes true!!!


Marking her territory.

Click to expand...

Love the OOF areas here - I thought this was taken with the 200mm.

Doxa750 said:

Royal walk...


A male tiger and his name is Badal aka T-101. He is one of the dominant males in zone 2. This was just about as sunset. The most challenging thing beside the lack of light had to do with dusting as lots of cars trying to chase the big cat.


I should mention that we waited for close to an hour while listening to his road echoing around the mountain, jungle. I was super glad that he decided to get up and start strolling along just before our time was up.


Keep on strolling


The big cat put a good show for great 6-8 minutes before he decided to went deeper into that mountain range jungle.

Click to expand...

Great pics, thanks again! Looking forward to Part 2 with other wildlife.

--
Central India --> Pacific Northwest. Favorite lenses: Olympus 300mm Pro, 8mm Pro. Favorite subjects: leopards, swallows, ospreys.

How far were you? Good fences? How can the tiger not cut itself on hair that sharp?

(Yeah, I'm jealous.)

Very nice set!

I’ve heard Andy Rouse talk about these tigers, and I recommend his book: https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/andy-rouse-photography-book-will-delight-tiger-lovers

Andy has now switched to Olympus, by the way.

Many thanks for all those history and tips as well. Unfortunately, I didn't have any wide angle lenses with me just those two lenses and EM1.3. I wish I have any second body with me. The big cats were close and fairly exposed, I don't think AI really is needed. Of course it would for sure improved the focus on the eyes. This is something I noticed as drastic different between EM1.3 and OM-1. I can rely on OM-1 to nail on the eyes and just worry more on the composition.

Yes, I am aware of the full day or full half day to be pricer. I was trying to set that up but it was last minute and all was booked. But you will have a car to yourself and could ask them to stop wherever you prefer. I spotted nice looking feather friends but the car kept on moving, LOL. They prioritized on tigers as shared tour group for sure.

Anyhow, I booked mine through Trip Advisor. They picked me up from Jaipur and drove me to the my hotel down there. Then the government operated guide came and picked me up and off I went.

I actually plan to bring my family with me next time around. Jaipur or this Sawai is not too far from Taj so I could do family sightseeing along with tiger tour with them. I know summer month is super hot and dry down there. However, I like it as it was not in peak season.

I will get to my part 2 soon.

FourthHorse said:

How far were you? Good fences? How can the tiger not cut itself on hair that sharp?

(Yeah, I'm jealous.)

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Well, all EXIF data is there. Most of the images aren't cropped. Perhaps only 3 of them are cropped. As I mentioned I didn't know what to expect and decided to leave my 12-40mm and 40-150mm lenses in Thailand with my family. I wished I had my send body and 40-150mm F2.8 with me or even 75mm F1.8. Anyhow, yes, they came very very close. On these occasions at this zone 2, the big cat never really stopped walking as as the car and dusting from time to time.

drmarkf said:

Very nice set!

I’ve heard Andy Rouse talk about these tigers, and I recommend his book: https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/andy-rouse-photography-book-will-delight-tiger-lovers

Andy has now switched to Olympus, by the way.

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Yes, I have his book already and won it through one of his competitions. His tiger tour to this place during winter month often books up very quickly. I wished I could make it work when I make my business trip to India. But his arrangement is one of the best I have come across not just tiger photography tour in Ranthambore.

Doxa750 said:

Yes, I am aware of the full day or full half day to be pricer. I was trying to set that up but it was last minute and all was booked. But you will have a car to yourself and could ask them to stop wherever you prefer. I spotted nice looking feather friends but the car kept on moving, LOL. They prioritized on tigers as shared tour group for sure.

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Ugh! This is why I never share my vehicle with other tourists. There are two easy ways to ensure this: one would be to use a tour operator who specializes in wildlife safaris. They take care of everything - your transportation to the park (private vehicle), your lodge, booking the Gypsy for you etc.

I have been very happy with Jungle Lore (https://www.junglelore.net/). They're based in Mumbai and I was living in the metro area - I'm sure there are equally competent operators in the New Delhi area but I haven't tried any. They handled my train reservations from Mumbai (First Class), lodge stay (responsible ecotourism, three-star), of course I had my own vehicle, and the owner would call me regularly to check on my experience. When 2 days passed without a tiger sighting, they made sure that I got the most scenic zone (can't recall which one) and an expert team who found T-24 Ustaad. But they also stopped for the small animals - stone curlew, Indian mongoose, flying snake, monitor lizards, owls, wild boar, peafowl courtships etc.

I was so happy with their service that I used them for planning my honeymoon. This time, my wife and I went to Satpura tiger reserve and Pench national park. Satpura is a high-end destination that restricts the number of tourists (I think the total vehicles are capped at 20 and tracked over GPS). The park also allows night safaris and walking safaris. This time, we had a dedicated naturalist who was with us for all safaris, making sure that no two experiences were similar. At Satpura alone, I saw 4 tigers, 6 sloth bears, most raptors (including every owl species), huge crocodiles, dozens of bird species and incredibly rare sightings like the rusty-spotted cat (world's smallest feline) and chowsingha (world's only 4-horned antelope). At Pench I had an amazing leopard sighting, more raptors and my wife saw her first tiger (she didn't join all safaris).

Anyway, I'm rambling. The second way to have a safari on your own terms is by booking a high-end resort that provides a dedicated naturalist for each drive (this person coordinates with the government staff). But using a reputed local safari operator is the easiest option, IMO. A bit costlier, but well worth it. You can also work with an operator in your country, of course, but you'll be spending much more.

Doxa750 said:

Anyhow, I booked mine through Trip Advisor. They picked me up from Jaipur and drove me to the my hotel down there. Then the government operated guide came and picked me up and off I went.

I actually plan to bring my family with me next time around. Jaipur or this Sawai is not too far from Taj so I could do family sightseeing along with tiger tour with them. I know summer month is super hot and dry down there. However, I like it as it was not in peak season.

I will get to my part 2 soon.

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I'm biased toward central India as you know but if you're touring in the North, you should consider Jim Corbett National Park. They have wild elephants and the park has some stunning grasslands (Terai) with views of the Himalayas. Haven't been there myself. It's only 4 hours from New Delhi.

However if you're having an extended tour of Rajastan (cities, castles etc.) then you might want to visit a place called Bera. It isn't a protected area but has a thriving population of leopards who are at ease among humans. Leopard sightings are virtually guaranteed. It's a long drive from Ranthambore (8 hours?) but something to consider if you're planning on seeing more of the state.

My two cents.

Once again, I really do appreciate your insight, tips, etc. Yes, many good resorts provide a private tour to this NP. I was just too late to book them as it was literally last minute decision.

I don't know who they operated in the past. These days, only government operated cars and guides could take you into the park.

Yes, I am look at other places as well. My decision will depend largely on where I would be doing my works during the visit in India or whether my family will join me or not next time around.

These are fantastic shots and good write up

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Doxa750 said:

Once again, I really do appreciate your insight, tips, etc. Yes, many good resorts provide a private tour to this NP. I was just too late to book them as it was literally last minute decision.

I don't know who they operated in the past. These days, only government operated cars and guides could take you into the park.

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Again, my pleasure! I hope you have many more special experiences in my country.

To clarify, when resorts provide a staff naturalist, they still use government-authorized vehicles, drivers and safari guides. It's just that having a naturalist who is with you for all drives (and perhaps more skilled than the guide you get with the vehicle, who is chosen at random) ensures that you see a wide variety of species and habitats.

Not all resorts offer this - many are budget options that cater to casual tourists. And especially in Rajastan there's an epidemic of resorts that do dumb "touristy" things like ethnic costumes, garlands, etc. and charge a hefty premium for that. However, there are also some that are focused on eco-tourism and serious conservation.

The resort we stayed at at Satpura, for instance, does not even have TVs in rooms because are a distraction. They keep a log of wildlife seen in various zones and track movements over many days. Every evening there are talks on animals and their behavior. The property itself is wilderness with dispersed lodges made of natural materials, so it's frequented by wildlife. You can even set up camera traps - I did not have spare cameras but another person did and captured a leopard drinking from a pond INSIDE the property. My wife mentioned on a safari that the dry forest made her miss the Pacific Northwest, and our naturalist asked what animals she likes the most. She said "frogs", and the same evening, back at the resort, he went looking for frogs and found a tree frog for her.

Honestly, I used to stay at the cheapest place I could find and do bare-bones safaris. But having experienced eco-tourism focused resorts and naturalists, I will never go back. It's a bit like using Pro lenses. ;-)

Doxa750 said:

Yes, I am look at other places as well. My decision will depend largely on where I would be doing my works during the visit in India or whether my family will join me or not next time around.

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--
Central India --> Pacific Northwest. Favorite lenses: Olympus 300mm Pro, 8mm Pro. Favorite subjects: leopards, swallows, ospreys.

Thanks for the report and excellent photos! I hope to visit some day.