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High contrast BW film for low contrast lens
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Phil A Martin
Veteran Member
Do you realise that you can adjust the contrast of a negative through exposure and development? Under exposing the film and over developing will increase contrast. Over exposing and under developing will reduce contrast.
I don't do my own developing. Of course, I can adjust contrast/levels in Photoshop, but I'm interested in preserving the natural look of film as much as possible.
Tom Axford
Forum Pro
B&w negative films are naturally low contrast (with a few exceptions for technical use). You should stick with the usual films and adjust contrast where needed in Photoshop.
An old uncoated (or badly scratched or dirty) lens is said to be low contrast, but the contrast varies across the image. Contrast is reduced most in the deepest shadows, much less so in the highlights. The effect on the image is much the same as shooting through a dirty window.
So, simply increasing the contrast everywhere will not make the image look normal. A haze reduction tool will be much more effective.
I find TMax400 to be prone to higher contrast. When I was first back to film 2 or 3 years ago, I tried to have TMax developed by labs and the results were too contrasty. That is when I decided to start developing at home again. You could ask your lab to push a half stop, one stop may be too much. Extending development will increase contrast.
The nice thing about low contrast lenses is theyshow shadows well without blocking the highlights. Also when you print in a darkroom you select different grades of paper for normal or higher contrast, it is not just the film, it is printing choices too, thisis what your photo editor does in digital, slight flexing of the contrast is not an impure act.
The nice thing about low contrast lenses is theyshow shadows well without blocking the highlights. Also when you print in a darkroom you select different grades of paper for normal or higher contrast, it is not just the film, it is printing choices too, thisis what your photo editor does in digital, slight flexing of the contrast is not an impure act.
Thanks!
Winterfrost
Senior Member
Adox CMS 20(II) is a high contrast Film, but best being used @ISO/ASA 16 around. As the film needs much light, sunny days, better via tripod, then freehand, for sharp pictures.
For ISO 400, perhaps Kodak T-Max 400 ?
--
"The Best Camera is the One That's with You" ~ Chase Jarvis
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Remarkable film, but isn't it 35mm only?
DrBormental
Forum Enthusiast
The contrast of any B&W film is not set in stone during manufacturing. There aren't any "high contrast" or "low contrast" films.
You control contrast of an image by selecting the exposure index (EI), developer, and development time. Ansel Adams famously described the process in The Negative.
Some emulsions such as ADOX CMS 20 or JCH 400 are often described as "high contrast" films, but that's because they're re-packaged Agfa films with a modified exposure index (suggested box speed). Expose JCH at EI80, lower the development time, and you'll get a normal image. With CMS 20, you need a special developer to deliver normal contrast.
In other words, it's not the film you need, but film + exposure index + developer + cooking time combination. Frankly, your choice of lens is probably the least impactful decision than any of these.
P.S. I should have mentioned another elephant in the room: scanning. That's by far the easiest and most powerful way to add/reduce contrast of a final image.
You control contrast of an image by selecting the exposure index (EI), developer, and development time. Ansel Adams famously described the process in The Negative.
Some emulsions such as ADOX CMS 20 or JCH 400 are often described as "high contrast" films, but that's because they're re-packaged Agfa films with a modified exposure index (suggested box speed). Expose JCH at EI80, lower the development time, and you'll get a normal image. With CMS 20, you need a special developer to deliver normal contrast.
In other words, it's not the film you need, but film + exposure index + developer + cooking time combination. Frankly, your choice of lens is probably the least impactful decision than any of these.
P.S. I should have mentioned another elephant in the room: scanning. That's by far the easiest and most powerful way to add/reduce contrast of a final image.
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Solution
Thanks, Doctor!
Winterfrost
Senior Member
Nope. I sent you a PM yesterday. For all the others, who are being interested:
https://www.fotoimpex.com/films/adox-cms-20-ii-120-medium-format-film.html
Good Light.
Overrank
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My understanding was that it was available in 120 and 5x4 but because of some issues at Adox they currently don’t have any sizes other than 35mm. I’d be interested in 120 though if it is available (it’s listed as out of stock/special order on fotoimpex)
tassienick
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Good idea, thanks! Unfortunately, my Flexaret has a proprietary filter mount, and the original filters are rather expensive. I have regular red and yellow filters. I'll try holding them against the lens. Will work only on a tripod obviously...
Does it have a Rollei bayonet type filter mount? If so you can find adapters for series or other sized filters. My Rollei has a bayonet III and I have an adapter for 49mm and series VII. I find the older series VII filters not to be as good as modern 49mm, so that is the adapter I use. Found both on *Bay the series VII may have come from the old Shutterbug sales magazine.
A lens hood will help, if your camera can accept one.
The Burn tool in Photoshop, if set to Shadow and about 10% opacity, can reduce flare considerably. You only need apply it where the flare is worst.
Don
No, Flexaret and Rollei bayonets are different.
Waiting for a 3D printed hood to arrive from Ebay. I didn't have a flare problem, just generally low contrast.
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