Forcing Fixed Shutter Speed In Aperture Priority

Batdude

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Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.

What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
 
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I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.
I know this is unlikely that you missed, but just want to clarify the obvious that when the shutter speed is auto-picked below 1/200, ISO was not at max 1600 or 3200?

https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/taking_photo/iso/index.html

"The camera may select shutter speeds slower than MIN. SHUTTER SPEED if pictures would still be underexposed at the value selected for MAX. SENSITIVITY."

The X-T3 has an ISOless sensor. If there's not enough light, personally I'd fix both SS and A, and cap the AutoISO at 800, and shoot RAW. I then can push the brightness in post without adding much noise (than the supposed-to-be ISO).
 
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Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.
You must've missed this...

9a691387ee3440ea9635ead2a213f115.jpg

What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
The camera will override your minimum shutter speed setting when your max. ISO limit is reached. I highly recommend setting your ISO limit preset limits from base ISO to ISO 12800 with three different minimum shutter speeds to avoid this. If, for whatever reason, you need to override with a fixed SS and/or fixed ISO, simply rotate either dial to the desired setting. I also highly recommend using your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
 
Last edited:
I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.
I know this is unlikely that you missed, but just want to clarify the obvious that when the shutter speed is auto-picked below 1/200, ISO was not at max 1600 or 3200?
The camera is picking a lower shutter speed lower than 1/200 (not what I want) at ISO 3200 max setting.
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/taking_photo/iso/index.html

"The camera may select shutter speeds slower than MIN. SHUTTER SPEED if pictures would still be underexposed at the value selected for MAX. SENSITIVITY."

The X-T3 has an ISOless sensor. If there's not enough light, personally I'd fix both SS and A, and cap the AutoISO at 800, and shoot RAW. I then can push the brightness in post without adding much noise (than the supposed-to-be ISO).
 
Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.

What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
The camera will override your minimum shutter speed setting when your max. ISO limit is reached. I highly recommend setting your ISO limit preset limits from base ISO to ISO 12800 with three different minimum shutter speeds to avoid this. If, for whatever reason, you need to override with a fixed SS and/or fixed ISO, simply rotate either dial to the desired setting.
Aaaaaah I see great tip you're awesome thank you, yeah I can just put the dial to 250, or whatever I choose that's awesome I think this will definitely work best I will play around with this from now on.
I also highly recommend using your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
Hahaha! :-) man this dial is freacking stiff and loud but I see what you're saying.
 
Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.

What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
The camera will override your minimum shutter speed setting when your max. ISO limit is reached. I highly recommend setting your ISO limit preset limits from base ISO to ISO 12800 with three different minimum shutter speeds to avoid this. If, for whatever reason, you need to override with a fixed SS and/or fixed ISO, simply rotate either dial to the desired setting.
Aaaaaah I see great tip you're awesome thank you, yeah I can just put the dial to 250, or whatever I choose that's awesome I think this will definitely work best I will play around with this from now on.
You can also set the top SS dial to "T" instead of a fixed value and easily ride the SS as needed to match the subject motion with the rear dial. I use this approach when the light is low and relatively stable, but the level of action is varying significantly. If the level of light is varying a lot, especially between indoors and out, you'll be much better off with an Auto-ISO/Min. SS setting and a very high Max.ISO setting. If you want to limit the ISO to preserve some highlight headroom, you can just dial down the exposure compensation a bit (it's effectively an ISO limit adjustment in this situation).
I also highly recommend using your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
Hahaha! :-) man this dial is freacking stiff and loud but I see what you're saying.
I use the front dial for fine exposure control full-time, much easier and faster than the EC dial, more range too. In low light it fine-tunes the ISO, in plentiful light it fine-tunes the SS without you having to change any settings while shooting continuously in rapidly changing light.
 
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I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
Nothing wrong with shooting manual if you have the time. If you’re shooting an event where missing important shots is not an option, especially a low light event, Auto-ISO with a minimum SS implementation and EC fine-tuning is MUCH faster/simpler/easier for maintaining an optimal exposure in rapidly changing light. I wouldn’t shoot in a situation like that any other way.
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
As long as I set it at iso 1600 or max 3200 i think I should be happy with that and the rest will fix in PP.
 
Are any of you experts at using flash? I use Cactus flash guns but have only used them in fully manual mode. My customer hasn’t decided where to do their wedding so what if I have to use flash?



Will I have to switch to manual mode or will all these work in TTL and continue shooting in Aperture priority? Again, I’m no expert at this.
 
Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.
You must've missed this...

9a691387ee3440ea9635ead2a213f115.jpg
What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
The camera will override your minimum shutter speed setting when your max. ISO limit is reached. I highly recommend setting your ISO limit preset limits from base ISO to ISO 12800 with three different minimum shutter speeds to avoid this. If, for whatever reason, you need to override with a fixed SS and/or fixed ISO, simply rotate either dial to the desired setting. I also highly recommend using your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
Would you or someone else help me with this, I’ve been playing around with Aperture Priority outdoor under plenty of sun with the 50mm f2 and Viltrox 56mm and my XT3 is behaving very inconsistent with very dark underexposed photos. Unfortunately I’m in Mexico and can’t post samples.



Through the EVF the exposure looks okay but when I take the photos and check they are super underexposed. Sometimes the camera gets it right but most of the time not, so what I have to do is override and manually move the SS dial to a lower SS. What am I doing wrong? 🤔



For some reason my camera is not underexposing indoor, only outdoor.
 
Hi guys,

I have normally shot in fully manual mode, but I've been messing around with Aperture priority with my XT3 but finding a few issues. Not sure if all cameras do this and thinking that my D4 bodies might do the same thing I just haven't compared, but when I set my T3 ISO AUTO SETTING Default Sensitivity to 160, Max iso Sensitivity to 1600 or 3200, and minimum shutter speed of 1/200, yet sometimes the camera decides to picks a shutter speed lower than 1/200. I have read the manual on page 137.
You must've missed this...

9a691387ee3440ea9635ead2a213f115.jpg
What's the point in me setting up this shutter speed limit yet the camera picks something lower that I don't want? Is there a way to change or force the camera to stay with my set settings? What's the trick? :-)

I will be doing a paid wedding in a few months, something I haven't done in quite a while, and would like to start learning more about how my camera behaves if I decide to set it up this way. I don't want to run into a situation where my camera all of the sudden starts choosing low shutter speeds while the groom and bride are walking or moving while indoor and then I end up with useless blurry photos because my camera decided to shoot at too low shutter speeds.

In the past I have shot fully manual, BUT, I did run into a huge challenge when the groom and bride walked out of the limo and then walked into the church in lower light, and vice versa. I got some terrible photos right at those circumstances. underexposed and over exposed photos, I was able to salvage them in RAW but that is something I don't want to do ever again. There is simply not enough time to start changing settings manually right at that point so I'm trying to figure out what is the best way for my camera to take care of me for my customer in this situation. Will appreciate tips on how to set up my camera properly.

Thank you :-)
The camera will override your minimum shutter speed setting when your max. ISO limit is reached. I highly recommend setting your ISO limit preset limits from base ISO to ISO 12800 with three different minimum shutter speeds to avoid this. If, for whatever reason, you need to override with a fixed SS and/or fixed ISO, simply rotate either dial to the desired setting. I also highly recommend using your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
Would you or someone else help me with this, I’ve been playing around with Aperture Priority outdoor under plenty of sun with the 50mm f2 and Viltrox 56mm and my XT3 is behaving very inconsistent with very dark underexposed photos. Unfortunately I’m in Mexico and can’t post samples.

Through the EVF the exposure looks okay but when I take the photos and check they are super underexposed. Sometimes the camera gets it right but most of the time not, so what I have to do is override and manually move the SS dial to a lower SS. What am I doing wrong? 🤔

For some reason my camera is not underexposing indoor, only outdoor.
With PREVIEW EXP/WB on and NATURAL LIVE VIEW off you should get what you are seeing in the EVF. Fine-tune exposure as necessary with exposure compensation. Use Multi metering.
 
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your EC dial in “C” mode which allows for quick and easy exposure fine-tuning with the front dial.
Hahaha! :-) man this dial is freacking stiff and loud but I see what you're saying.
There's obviously no right or wrong way to set what functions your dials perform but, personally, I like to set all the important parameters with my thumb:
  • AEL/AFL button: Back Button Focus.

  • Rear Command Dial: Exposure Compensation (EC) and RGB Histogram (when I press on the dial), combining those functions makes this my "exposure dial". Easy to remember.
    The above is for Aperture Priority shooting which I use 99% of the time.
  • Front Command Dial: rarely used ... default settings (F / S.S. / ISO), only used in modes other than Aperture Priority.
My index finger thus never leaves the shutter release button on top of the camera ... I like simplicity.

To each their own.
 
Question to ponder. What happens if when the meter reads the lighting it finds that at you max ISO and the set aperture, your selected min shutter speed underexposes the image? What does the camera do. Since aperture priority priorities the aperture and selects the shutter speed for the proper exposure. It could be two seconds which might not be what you want.

So auto ISO allows you the camera to vary the ISO in a range so that you can set a shutter min shutter speed. All as good. However, there is a conflict if the max allowable ISO requires a shutter speed less than the one set as min in you settings. The camera has a conflict to resolve.

How does it resolve it. It prioritizes the ISO limit over shutter min shutter speed. That is the runs the ISO up to max ISO and insures the proper exposure by setting the shutter speed to what it needs to be to insure proper exposure.

The documentation is pretty specific on that point. I expect you D4 does the same thing. When you run into a situation in aperture priority using auto ISO such that the exposure at the prioritized aperture, max ISO and min shutter speed is not sufficient the camera as to either change the ISO upwards or the shutter speed slower to insure proper exposure. Fuji choses to let the camera set the shutter speed below the min instead of the ISO above the max.
 
Question to ponder. What happens if when the meter reads the lighting it finds that at you max ISO and the set aperture, your selected min shutter speed underexposes the image? What does the camera do. Since aperture priority priorities the aperture and selects the shutter speed for the proper exposure. It could be two seconds which might not be what you want.

So auto ISO allows you the camera to vary the ISO in a range so that you can set a shutter min shutter speed. All as good. However, there is a conflict if the max allowable ISO requires a shutter speed less than the one set as min in you settings. The camera has a conflict to resolve.
I would argue that camera manufacturers should have just made it configurable by now - allow a choice between (1) "Max ISO priority" (the way it works now), (2) "Min shutter-speed priority" (the way we sometimes might want it to work instead, forcing minimum shutter-speed but going above maximum ISO), and (3) "No priority" (or something, forcing both maximum ISO and minimum shutter-speed, causing an underexposed image - to be seen on shutter-button half-press, too, allowing for possible correction before actually taking the underexposed shot).

But we`re not there yet, eh.

And with today's "ISOless" sensors, where it almost (or actually) makes no difference if ISO is raised in-camera before taking the shot, or RAW photo is brightened in post-production, options (2) and (3) might be pretty much the same end-product wise, the only difference being the camera doing the brightening by raising ISO in case (2), or user doing it manually in post-production in case (3).

Also, it should be easier to accept a slightly more grainy photo (due to higher ISO) than a blurry one (due to slower shutter-speed), so current behavior does not make much sense there, either.

I understand almost anything above base ISO was significantly worse in some not that far away past, making a wish not to ever go above user set maximum ISO understandable, but those times _are_ behind us, indeed, so "Auto ISO" should adapt, too, at least being more configurable (which of the min/max values is allowed to be disregarded in case of underexposure, if any).
 
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I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
Sounds like a nice, simple, efficient setup. Well done.
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
That's call the human behind the camera doing the thinks and managing the creative process rather than blindly allowing the camera to make the decisions and then puzzled by what it does. :-O
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
That's call the human behind the camera doing the thinks and managing the creative process rather than blindly allowing the camera to make the decisions and then puzzled by what it does. :-O
It should be mentioned that is actually possible to make smart use of partial automation in a way that doesn’t hinder the creative process in the slightest. Letting the camera make all the decisions on its own is a profoundly bad idea, but when the camera is set up to react to your creative decisions by automatically (and instantly) setting complimentary parameters that you would have set anyway, it can help you to work more efficiently and with greater freedom to concentrate on the most important stuff.
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
That's call the human behind the camera doing the thinks and managing the creative process rather than blindly allowing the camera to make the decisions and then puzzled by what it does. :-O
It should be mentioned that is actually possible to make smart use of partial automation in a way that doesn’t hinder the creative process in the slightest. Letting the camera make all the decisions on its own is a profoundly bad idea, but when the camera is set up to react to your creative decisions by automatically (and instantly) setting complimentary parameters that you would have set anyway, it can help you to work more efficiently and with greater freedom to concentrate on the most important stuff.
Sure but in this case when the camera hits information that is contradictory to it's instructions for the human, it has to make a decision or go off into an infinite look and hang. The camera can't read your mind. If a simple addition to Auto ISO was made that allowed one to select the priority order of max ISO and shutter speed then the human could make that selection. As it is now - the camera is in charge. You gets what you get. Or more precisely you get what some nerd programmer who may or may not have ever used a camera in conditions the photographers wants to use the camera in. He's in charge at this point.

There is more than one wart to Auto ISO implementation. The first - prioritizing max ISO over min shutter speed. The second is limiting min shutter speed to 1/500 which might not be sufficient for some sports shots. Of course these two warts might be related.
 
I just never liked auto ISO .. I have my cameras setup to use the front command dial for ISO and rear command dial for shutter speed, with the aperture set how I want. I then can quickly change either/both settings depending on the situation - I watch the histogram to determine if I need to adjust a setting.
That's call the human behind the camera doing the thinks and managing the creative process rather than blindly allowing the camera to make the decisions and then puzzled by what it does. :-O
It should be mentioned that is actually possible to make smart use of partial automation in a way that doesn’t hinder the creative process in the slightest. Letting the camera make all the decisions on its own is a profoundly bad idea, but when the camera is set up to react to your creative decisions by automatically (and instantly) setting complimentary parameters that you would have set anyway, it can help you to work more efficiently and with greater freedom to concentrate on the most important stuff.
Sure but in this case when the camera hits information that is contradictory to it's instructions for the human, it has to make a decision or go off into an infinite look and hang. The camera can't read your mind. If a simple addition to Auto ISO was made that allowed one to select the priority order of max ISO and shutter speed then the human could make that selection. As it is now - the camera is in charge. You gets what you get. Or more precisely you get what some nerd programmer who may or may not have ever used a camera in conditions the photographers wants to use the camera in. He's in charge at this point.

There is more than one wart to Auto ISO implementation. The first - prioritizing max ISO over min shutter speed. The second is limiting min shutter speed to 1/500 which might not be sufficient for some sports shots. Of course these two warts might be related.
 

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