On camera flash issues

I have been doing photography for a while now with on camera flash, as i get great results with it. I am trying to work however why on occasions i get, the ugly pin lights in the eyes?

The first 3 photos all have this, why the lower 2 shots don't have it. Do you see a workaround for this/why it occasionally happens? Thanks

The reflection of the on camera flash is in all five photos, but it appears in the first three that there is less ambient light illuminating his face so the reflections from the speedlight are more prominent.

Ellis Vener said:

The reflection of the on camera flash is in all five photos, but it appears in the first three that there is less ambient light illuminating his face so the reflections from the speedlight are more prominent.

Click to expand...

So it's dependant on the ambient light. Thanks

brandon77 said:

Ellis Vener said:

The reflection of the on camera flash is in all five photos, but it appears in the first three that there is less ambient light illuminating his face so the reflections from the speedlight are more prominent.

Click to expand...

So it's dependant on the ambient light. Thanks

Click to expand...

More specifically on your ambient/flash balance. The more prominent the flash (i.e., the higher the power level on the flash) in the exposure, the more you'll see the catchlight.

On the less prominent images, most of your exposure is in the ambient, less on the flash.

Ambient exposure is controlled by iso, aperture, and shutter speed.

Flash exposure is controlled by iso, aperture, power, and flash-to-subject distance.

Generally, increasing the ISO or aperture or moving in closer while using TTL will lower the flash power.

Catchlights can actually be good things, if you use a larger modifier or bounce.

kli said:

brandon77 said:

Ellis Vener said:

The reflection of the on camera flash is in all five photos, but it appears in the first three that there is less ambient light illuminating his face so the reflections from the speedlight are more prominent.

Click to expand...

So it's dependant on the ambient light. Thanks

Click to expand...

More specifically on your ambient/flash balance. The more prominent the flash (i.e., the higher the power level on the flash) in the exposure, the more you'll see the catchlight.

On the less prominent images, most of your exposure is in the ambient, less on the flash.

Click to expand...

Yes That makes sense

kli said:

Ambient exposure is controlled by iso, aperture, and shutter speed.

Flash exposure is controlled by iso, aperture, power, and flash-to-subject distance.

Generally, increasing the ISO or aperture or moving in closer while using TTL will lower the flash power.

Catchlights can actually be good things, if you use a larger modifier or bounce.

Click to expand...

Do you know of any good on camera flash modifiers that can help with that?

Catchlights can actually be good things, if you use a larger modifier or bounce.

brandon77 said:

Do you know of any good on camera flash modifiers that can help with that?

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Try a Rogue FlashBender v3 Large Soft Box Kit. It is large enough to make a difference in the quality of the light but not so large it cannot be used on a camera mounted light; and it is not a one trick pony.

--
Ellis Vener
A working photographer since 1984.
To see my work, please visit http://www.ellisvener.com
Or on Instagram @EllisVenerStudio

RE: >> Do you know of any good on camera flash modifiers that can help with that? <<

Look up the Gary Fong Lightsphere.

It fits over the flashh head of a camera-maker style, and makes the size of the on-camera "ball of light" bigger, making the catchlight bigger, too.

The lightsphere is useful for increasing the quality of flash pictures, under many circumstances, too.

BAK

brandon77 said:

brandon77 said:

... Catchlights can actually be good things, if you use a larger modifier or bounce.

Click to expand...

Do you know of any good on camera flash modifiers that can help with that?

Click to expand...

Well... on-camera you can use some larger plastic tupperware type modifiers like the Fong Lightsphere, Magmod's Magsphere or Godox's ML-CD15/ML-CS1625, a bounce card/panel, or small softbox, and that can make a larger catchlight, but because it remains a small light source (relative to the size of your subject) it won't necessarily help to soften the light that much. If you plan on using it for daylight fill, however, with the flash at lower power level/balance, it'll work. Keep in mind, the tupperwares will also be throwing some light away by scattering it in all directions.

And as I said, a larger off-camera modifier (umbrella, softbox) or bouncing the flash would work better at softening the light, if you want to balance it more towards the flash.

brandon77 said:

I have been doing photography for a while now with on camera flash, as i get great results with it. I am trying to work however why on occasions i get, the ugly pin lights in the eyes?

The first 3 photos all have this, why the lower 2 shots don't have it.

Do you see a workaround for this/why it occasionally happens? Thanks

Click to expand...

The small white dot in the subjects eyes is called a "catchlight" and is a reflection of an external bright point light source most likely your on-camera flash.

Looking closely you will see it is actually in all of these photos just less noticeable in the much lighter eyes of your second subject.

We naturally tend to ascribe characteristics to a person based upon their appearance. Since it is said that "eyes are the window to the soul" eye appearance is especially important. Catchlights make eyes look alive in portraits. The absence of catchlights gives the opposite feeling.

IMO it is the placement of your catchlights that's the issue here. Centrally located catchlights tend to give a beady-eyed look when a subject is looking directly at the camera as yours are with on-camera flash. Moving the catchlights up and to the side can be achieved by moving the flash off-camera and up a bit. Some achieve this by holding flash up with left hand while shooting with the right. Having the subject look slightly to the side also helps. Moving the catchlights in post is also an option.

• John

--
"[If you don't sweat the details] the magic doesn't work." Brooks, F. P., The Mythical Man-Month, Addison-Wesley, 1975, page 8.