I have a 12MP Drebel/ Not 6 MP for suckers

Your high end JPEG opens to around 11x17 @ 180 dpi by default.
Nice. But you can double the print size will little loss in image
quality if you do the following 2 photoshop edits and end up with a
22x34 print @ 180 dpi:

A. Interpolate your images by going into image size and changing
the document size to 110% (instead of say, inches) and check the
resample image on bottom of the window. Do this a number of times
until you have a the larger image size.

B. Use the unsharp mask in lab colors to sharpen the image for
critical sharpness.

1. Change the RGB to Lab Color under the Image-Mode on the menu.
Your channels will change to Lightness, A + B.
2. Select the lightness and do your unsharp mask edits with that
channel selected.
3. A good all around setting for your unsharp mask is Amount:
85-125%, Radius to 1.5 pixels, threshold to 4 levels. Experiment
with this, you may have different tastes.
4. Convert back to RGB and save. Voila! You now have a huge poster
sized print that looks great and unpixelated, sharp or sharper than
your original file.
5. Once you have a standard setting that works, record it as an
action so you can do a whole mess of them without the hassle of
tedious edits and save your time for having fun shooting.

I just saved you the expense of buying a 12 MP camera! Try it, it
works! Don't get all anal on me about this, ok, so it works to
different degrees, what the heck, it's free...
--
Pixelitus Maximus
--
JennZ
http://www.littleflurry.com
http://www.pbase.com/littleflurry
'me photo happy person'
 
I'd imagine Genuine Fractals would be better. By the way, what format do you use when you use Genuine Fractals to increase an image?
I bought Genuine Fractals when I had some large posters to print
(10' panos). I've been really happy with it and its a nice work
flow.

http://www.genuinefractals.com/

OK, I know this is expensive for Pro version, but so is printing
very large posters.

Also wondering with multi-step increase if there is something to be
gained by changing to 16bit for the process.

dfg

--
David Goldwasser
http://www.inertia-llc.com
 
you can double the print size with virtually no loss with s-spline .. ok , it's not free, but is is a perfect tool!
Your high end JPEG opens to around 11x17 @ 180 dpi by default.
Nice. But you can double the print size will little loss in image
quality if you do the following 2 photoshop edits and end up with a
22x34 print @ 180 dpi:

A. Interpolate your images by going into image size and changing
the document size to 110% (instead of say, inches) and check the
resample image on bottom of the window. Do this a number of times
until you have a the larger image size.

B. Use the unsharp mask in lab colors to sharpen the image for
critical sharpness.

1. Change the RGB to Lab Color under the Image-Mode on the menu.
Your channels will change to Lightness, A + B.
2. Select the lightness and do your unsharp mask edits with that
channel selected.
3. A good all around setting for your unsharp mask is Amount:
85-125%, Radius to 1.5 pixels, threshold to 4 levels. Experiment
with this, you may have different tastes.
4. Convert back to RGB and save. Voila! You now have a huge poster
sized print that looks great and unpixelated, sharp or sharper than
your original file.
5. Once you have a standard setting that works, record it as an
action so you can do a whole mess of them without the hassle of
tedious edits and save your time for having fun shooting.

I just saved you the expense of buying a 12 MP camera! Try it, it
works! Don't get all anal on me about this, ok, so it works to
different degrees, what the heck, it's free...
--
Pixelitus Maximus
--
nice cam .. but what's that stupid colour doing there?
 
lm31 wrote:
[snip]

Download IrfanView, QImage, or some other utility that implements resampling with the Lanczos algorithm. You'll get better results than with bicubic stair interpolation (what you're discussing) and despite the computation-heavy algorithm, one pass of Lanczos will be faster than several passes of bicubic.

I've tried this, and the results are subtly but noticeably less "blobby" than with stair interpolation.

Petteri
--




Portfolio: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/index/ ]
Pontification: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/ ]
 
What about a Photoshop Action? Can someone write one? (just click the record button while you are doing the interpolleration steps)
Your high end JPEG opens to around 11x17 @ 180 dpi by default.
Nice. But you can double the print size will little loss in image
quality if you do the following 2 photoshop edits and end up with a
22x34 print @ 180 dpi:

A. Interpolate your images by going into image size and changing
the document size to 110% (instead of say, inches) and check the
resample image on bottom of the window. Do this a number of times
until you have a the larger image size.

B. Use the unsharp mask in lab colors to sharpen the image for
critical sharpness.

1. Change the RGB to Lab Color under the Image-Mode on the menu.
Your channels will change to Lightness, A + B.
2. Select the lightness and do your unsharp mask edits with that
channel selected.
3. A good all around setting for your unsharp mask is Amount:
85-125%, Radius to 1.5 pixels, threshold to 4 levels. Experiment
with this, you may have different tastes.
4. Convert back to RGB and save. Voila! You now have a huge poster
sized print that looks great and unpixelated, sharp or sharper than
your original file.
5. Once you have a standard setting that works, record it as an
action so you can do a whole mess of them without the hassle of
tedious edits and save your time for having fun shooting.

I just saved you the expense of buying a 12 MP camera! Try it, it
works! Don't get all anal on me about this, ok, so it works to
different degrees, what the heck, it's free...
--
Pixelitus Maximus
 
I use FotoSlate for printing and it gives me 3 options, Bicubic, Lanczos, or ClearIQZ. I've not tried ClearIQZ yet, any thoughts on it?
lm31 wrote:

[snip]

Download IrfanView, QImage, or some other utility that implements
resampling with the Lanczos algorithm. You'll get better results
than with bicubic stair interpolation (what you're discussing) and
despite the computation-heavy algorithm, one pass of Lanczos will
be faster than several passes of bicubic.

I've tried this, and the results are subtly but noticeably less
"blobby" than with stair interpolation.

Petteri
--




Portfolio: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/index/ ]
Pontification: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/ ]
--
Equipment list in profile.
http://www.pbase.com/digifan
 
not it does not work with element. I have PS 7 and now PS cs...this is one feature that differentiate Element from the PS program.
can you make the action available for download?
--

I can't seem to get them working in PS Elements, although actions
appear in XP with an Elements icon. Is this a 300D-style
defeaturing?

Thanks.

--
Johann
http://www.therealting.com/photos
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
I bought Genuine Fractals when I had some large posters to print
(10' panos). I've been really happy with it and its a nice work
flow.

http://www.genuinefractals.com/

OK, I know this is expensive for Pro version, but so is printing
very large posters.

Also wondering with multi-step increase if there is something to be
gained by changing to 16bit for the process.

dfg

--
David Goldwasser
http://www.inertia-llc.com
--
David Goldwasser
http://www.inertia-llc.com
 
Not that I can actually print to that large a size, but it'll be cool to try..
Your high end JPEG opens to around 11x17 @ 180 dpi by default.
Nice. But you can double the print size will little loss in image
quality if you do the following 2 photoshop edits and end up with a
22x34 print @ 180 dpi:

A. Interpolate your images by going into image size and changing
the document size to 110% (instead of say, inches) and check the
resample image on bottom of the window. Do this a number of times
until you have a the larger image size.

B. Use the unsharp mask in lab colors to sharpen the image for
critical sharpness.

1. Change the RGB to Lab Color under the Image-Mode on the menu.
Your channels will change to Lightness, A + B.
2. Select the lightness and do your unsharp mask edits with that
channel selected.
3. A good all around setting for your unsharp mask is Amount:
85-125%, Radius to 1.5 pixels, threshold to 4 levels. Experiment
with this, you may have different tastes.
4. Convert back to RGB and save. Voila! You now have a huge poster
sized print that looks great and unpixelated, sharp or sharper than
your original file.
5. Once you have a standard setting that works, record it as an
action so you can do a whole mess of them without the hassle of
tedious edits and save your time for having fun shooting.

I just saved you the expense of buying a 12 MP camera! Try it, it
works! Don't get all anal on me about this, ok, so it works to
different degrees, what the heck, it's free...
--
Pixelitus Maximus
 
I made another one mistake, which you didn't find (shame on you) - Naughtius (Notorius) Maximus wasn't emperor's friend, actually he was Brian's father and roman centurion!

Cloud
it's "naughtius" maximus!

now write it out 1000 times before sunrise or i'll cut your balls off!

:)
--
Pixelitus Maximus
Nice, you remind me emperor's best friend - Notorius Maximus, from
the Monty Python's movie "Life of Brian" :-)))

--
Cloud
Gallery: http://fotopruvodce.cz/fotogalerie/autori.phtml?autor=Cloud
word 'starsi' on the bottom of the page means 'next page'
 
Well I jsut downloaded it, cropped a CRW and resized it 200% in photoshop, with B-spline and with lan and I have to say the photoshop resizing loks better.

The B-Spline image looked blurred and the lan resizing seemed to have more detail in it but I think thats due to sharpening as I can see sharpening artifacts everywhere and theres sharpening halos all around the edges.
Don't waist your time in Photoshop, just upsample the image in
IrfanView of ACDSee with the B-Spline algorythm.
http://www.irfanview.com
 
just an interesting remark on your signature, your eyes can't captures a person aura while a camera can and there are some that would argue the aura is a person soul :o)

Just a lil sidenote there.
--
Your eyes can capture the soul, the camera just an image.
 

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