allstar7610
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Is it seriously worth purchasing a 6d or a 5d mk2 or mk3 if you want full frame on a budget. I have a 77d and a g85
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That's between you and your local loan shark.Is it seriously worth purchasing a 6d or a 5d mk2 or mk3 if you want full frame on a budget. I have a 77d and a g85
The 5D2 & 3 both suffered from low dynamic range and banding when lifting shadows. I would recommend the 5D4 if you shoot landscape and if you can find one in your price range.Is it seriously worth purchasing a 6d or a 5d mk2 or mk3 if you want full frame on a budget.

I have no idea what these are so I cannot comment.I have a 77d and a g85
Medium format (MF) has a 1.25 factor against full-frame. Meaning if your MF lens is 50mm F4, it will be equivalent to 40mm F/2.8 compared to FF.Although, biggest sensor isn't necessarily the best in practice as one can see on example of Fujifilm GFX system, which has a larger sensor than FF but doesn't have particularly fast lenses in equivalent terms.
I didn't read every comment to your original post but read enough to get a "kick" out of the arguments/disagreements about everything from sensor sizes to dynamic rage and about anything else that could be compared to different cameras.Gear list updated
I have to disagree about full frame being a fad, but I think you make a good point about the price of cameras and the average person.Full Frame? It's a fad. "It too will pass" And then FF will be in the same category as Medium Format. Only pros and really well financed amateur hobbyists will be able to afford them. And unless manufacturers come up with some low dollar ($500 or so) entry level ILC's, phones are all there will be left for the average joe once the used market is depleted, to take pictures with.
Ed - I agree with you 1000%.Anyway, I'm a person who believes lenses are more important than sensor size
Thank you for updating your gear list, it was helpful. After seeing what you are using today, I understand your frustration having owned and/or used almost all of your lenses. Based on my personal experience, I didn't care for my photography results until I replaced my/those lenses.Gear list updated
f/4 on Fujifilm GFX is equivalent to f/3.2 on FF. Their two fastest lenses which I was able to find are 80 mm f/1.7 and 110 mm f/2. That is equivalent to 64 mm f/1.36 and 88 mm f/1.6 on FF. Which means that FF systems have lenses that provide thinner DOF despite the fact that FF has smaller sensor than Fujifilm GFX.Medium format (MF) has a 1.25 factor against full-frame. Meaning if your MF lens is 50mm F4, it will be equivalent to 40mm F/2.8 compared to FF.Although, biggest sensor isn't necessarily the best in practice as one can see on example of Fujifilm GFX system, which has a larger sensor than FF but doesn't have particularly fast lenses in equivalent terms.
Discussion of performance of lenses adapted to a different format is irrelevant to a question if equivalent lenses can provide the same IQ or not.But then you can just get the 400/2.8 on FF; crop when needed and not when it is not needed. You’d have a zoom, effectively. Also, with a crop body, you are using the transition zone too much. When I was shooting crop wit the 135L, I could not understand what that fuss was all about. The bokeh was not great even though it was strong. Now, I know what makes the 135L great. Same with the 70-200/4. Harsh bokeh, not that you cannot blur the BG enough but it did not look great. On FF, no problems. Not to mention the better resolution.
That comparison is far from well controlled enough to allow making general conclusions about FF vs APS-C performance.https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/60622406 There are some differences in the distance to the subject, the model position, but in general, you can see that in the center, the Fuji is just slightly behind in blur; but away from it, it is even more. There must be a price to pay for squeezing the same image onto a smaller area.
The "Point-n-Shoot" cameras have been almost completely replaced by the mobile phone due to similar photo quality and desire to carry one device.Good follow up. That's how I see it also. They are pricing themselves out of the market. And cell phone providers make it almost too easy to own a top of the line phone.
Nice.Gear list updated
EF-S 24mm F2.8 STM. Real peach of a lens, shar as sharp even wide open. £130 aprx new. No brainer. Had it when I shot APSC Canon. Now use an XF 23mm F2. Both as good as each other except for F2 of course. The 24mm F2.8 is really that good.Nice.Gear list updated
You have EF 50/1.8 and an 85/1.8 for the 77D. Those would transfer well to a FF body, like an old 5D. I bet you could get one of those for super cheap, and as long as you're not shooting sports, AF would be fine.
On the other hand, when you use those lenses on the 77D, do you find you're missing something when you shoot with those lenses? Do you want even thinner DoF? If not, just take a pass on FF.
It seems like you're missing a fast wide angle lens for it. I like a 35/2 for my FF body; I use it as my all-around fast prime. That would be about a 22 mm for your APS-C body. Do you ever use that focal length and miss the thinner depth of field that you can't get with your 18-55/3.5-5.6 kit zoom?
The 5D is very good for sports providing you use the center focus point only which is cross type. I never had any issues shooting thousands of images in show jumping and modern dance performancesNice.Gear list updated
You have EF 50/1.8 and an 85/1.8 for the 77D. Those would transfer well to a FF body, like an old 5D. I bet you could get one of those for super cheap, and as long as you're not shooting sports, AF would be fine.
--On the other hand, when you use those lenses on the 77D, do you find you're missing something when you shoot with those lenses? Do you want even thinner DoF? If not, just take a pass on FF.
It seems like you're missing a fast wide angle lens for it. I like a 35/2 for my FF body; I use it as my all-around fast prime. That would be about a 22 mm for your APS-C body. Do you ever use that focal length and miss the thinner depth of field that you can't get with your 18-55/3.5-5.6 kit zoom?
It is relevant. Actually, you were the one who brought it in, in the now removed quotes.Discussion of performance of lenses adapted to a different format is irrelevant to a question if equivalent lenses can provide the same IQ or not.But then you can just get the 400/2.8 on FF; crop when needed and not when it is not needed. You’d have a zoom, effectively. Also, with a crop body, you are using the transition zone too much. When I was shooting crop wit the 135L, I could not understand what that fuss was all about. The bokeh was not great even though it was strong. Now, I know what makes the 135L great. Same with the 70-200/4. Harsh bokeh, not that you cannot blur the BG enough but it did not look great. On FF, no problems. Not to mention the better resolution.
Did you ever wonder why? BTW, I agreed that it is neglected by Canon (and Nikon) but not by Fuji, obviously.By the way, doesn't the fact that you had to adapt FF lenses to APS-C support my point that the format is somewhat neglected by manufacturers?
It does not need to be. They have small differences, as I mentioned but there are several of them, enough for a trend to emmerge.That comparison is far from well controlled enough to allow making general conclusions about FF vs APS-C performance.https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/60622406 There are some differences in the distance to the subject, the model position, but in general, you can see that in the center, the Fuji is just slightly behind in blur; but away from it, it is even more. There must be a price to pay for squeezing the same image onto a smaller area.
Not for all of them if any.Shots in the interior from Canon seem focused more to the front
We do not? It is very clear that the Fuji 23mm is too sharp on the left of the picture, and more or less similar to the Canon in the center. This cannot be explained by diferent positions. There is a much simpler explanation - the Fuji vignettes a lot wide open (so does the Canon) but the Canon is stopped down.and that would produce more blur in the background. But that is impossible to tell with certainty since we don't see any blurred foreground.
The lenses my not be exactly FL equivalent, etc. Still three lenses, several shots - and Fuji always loses, and in this case - it loses by a mile?Shots at the brick wall were clearly taken at different distance from the wall which significantly influences resulting blur.