GRIII First Impressions

Has anyone tried a Peak Design Capture Clip for their GR?

The sole mounting plate would be larger than the bottom of the camera but just curious.
Not at all stealthy to have a camera sideways off your chest, but it's what I use for hiking. The GR series it's still all one handed (I'm right handed) use clipping out is holding and pressing the button with thumb, use, slide back in.

It's actually more difficult with A7iii even though I only use small Loxia lenses hiking: it's weight can be a bit much for day packs and sliding in and out can take two hands and a curse if something turns.

Peak does have some small straps, but... $$$

Both my II and IIIx have the neoprene wrist strap from OP/TECH - it's a bit fat, but for hiking it's real comfortable if I hold a long time / feel secure.
 
Congratulations on your new purchase and thanks for sharing your first impressions, and good to see you getting out and about to make good use of the camera.

Regarding:
-There are some weird features like "Link AE and AF Point"... etc
Link AE and AF Point

Yes you've stumbled upon a particularly confusing feature there (because it is only skimmed over in the manual) and many folks have documented conflicting assumptions about what it does.

As far as I can tell, the following is correct, but I recently sold most of my gear (ready for buying new) so don't have a GR to test it on at the moment.

Back in the day, both Matrix Metering and Spot Metering were hardware dependent. Matrix Metering had its own fixed pattern to meter different segments across the frame and make a reading based on combing the different values from the different segments.

Similarly spot metering used a small fixed segment in the centre of the frame to obtain the reading, so spot metering required use of the centre spot.

When Ricoh went digital, they based their settings around what traditional photographers were used to.

So matrix metering uses a fixed segments across the frame (but from the sensor), while spot metering uses a small centre segment (but from sensor).

Turning on "Link AE and AF Point" has the following effect:

Matrix Metering: The segment containing the AF point is given higher priority when the values from the different segments are combined into the resulting meter reading.

Spot Metering: A small segment centred on the AF point is used as the spot segment for taking the meter reading.

Highlight Weighted Metering

This is a very useful feature, it will basically underexpose the image (compared to regular matrix metering) such that bright highlights are not completely blown.

Different people use it in different ways, the site linked to earlier in the thread used it in conjunction with high contrast B&W JPEGs which resulted in images with little or no shadow detail, but that's just one way to use it, a way that is great for JPEG shooters because it gives a reliable way of avoiding blown highlights.

But when shooting raw you can make use of it in other ways. The blown highlights in JPEGs is often the result of the tone curve applied to the image during raw processing. The raw itself may have captured additional highlight data which doesn't make it through to the processed JPEG, but which can be recovered from the raw file (this extra highlight data is usually called raw headroom)

As its name suggests, Highlight Weighted Metering favours capturing (not blowing) highlights, but as this is done by reducing exposure, it has a detrimental effect to the shadows and means it fails to make use of any raw headroom.

However, you can use exposure compensation to change that. By using HWM to weight for highlights and then adding (for example) +1EV to the exposure with exposure compensation, you can then make use of the raw headroom such that highlights are still preserved in raw and then get more use from the shadows thanks to the extra stop of exposure.

Ideally you would first test this in your typical lighting scenarios to work out where the limits are. It might be more than +1EV in some scenarios but less in others.

Enjoy you new camera!
 
Last edited:
Congratulations on your new purchase and thanks for sharing your first impressions, and good to see you getting out and about to make good use of the camera.

Regarding:
-There are some weird features like "Link AE and AF Point"... etc
Link AE and AF Point

Yes you've stumbled upon a particularly confusing feature there (because it is only skimmed over in the manual) and many folks have documented conflicting assumptions about what it does.

As far as I can tell, the following is correct, but I recently sold most of my gear (ready for buying new) so don't have a GR to test it on at the moment.

Back in the day, both Matrix Metering and Spot Metering were hardware dependent. Matrix Metering had its own fixed pattern to meter different segments across the frame and make a reading based on combing the different values from the different segments.

Similarly spot metering used a small fixed segment in the centre of the frame to obtain the reading, so spot metering required use of the centre spot.

When Ricoh went digital, they based their settings around what traditional photographers were used to.

So matrix metering uses a fixed segments across the frame (but from the sensor), while spot metering uses a small centre segment (but from sensor).

Turning on "Link AE and AF Point" has the following effect:

Matrix Metering: The segment containing the AF point is given higher priority when the values from the different segments are combined into the resulting meter reading.

Spot Metering: A small segment centred on the AF point is used as the spot segment for taking the meter reading.
Appreciate the congrats!

So what you're saying is that the Link AE and AF Point feature, when turned on, analyzes a slightly broader segment than spot metering?

If both Auto-area Focus and Multi-segment metering (Ricoh speak) are selected, and let's say that the auto focus picks the closest subject, which for this example is at the bottom left of the screen, and the Link AE and AF Point feature is on, then the metering will occur near the bottom left of the screen even though both the focus and metering are broad spectrum?
Highlight Weighted Metering

This is a very useful feature, it will basically underexpose the image (compared to regular matrix metering) such that bright highlights are not completely blown.

Different people use it in different ways, the site linked to earlier in the thread used it in conjunction with high contrast B&W JPEGs which resulted in images with little or no shadow detail, but that's just one way to use it, a way that is great for JPEG shooters because it gives a reliable way of avoiding blown highlights.

But when shooting raw you can make use of it in other ways. The blown highlights in JPEGs is often the result of the tone curve applied to the image during raw processing. The raw itself may have captured additional highlight data which doesn't make it through to the processed JPEG, but which can be recovered from the raw file (this extra highlight data is usually called raw headroom)

As its name suggests, Highlight Weighted Metering favours capturing (not blowing) highlights, but as this is done by reducing exposure, it has a detrimental effect to the shadows and means it fails to make use of any raw headroom.

However, you can use exposure compensation to change that. By using HWM to weight for highlights and then adding (for example) +1EV to the exposure with exposure compensation, you can then make use of the raw headroom such that highlights are still preserved in raw and then get more use from the shadows thanks to the extra stop of exposure.

Ideally you would first test this in your typical lighting scenarios to work out where the limits are. It might be more than +1EV in some scenarios but less in others.
I have taken exactly one shot with the Highlight Metering so far so can't really comment on its pros and cons. But I would like to hear from others who have increased EV to some degree.
Enjoy you new camera!
Thank you and wish you best of luck with whatever new equipment you end up with in the future.
 
Congratulations on your new purchase and thanks for sharing your first impressions, and good to see you getting out and about to make good use of the camera.

Regarding:
-There are some weird features like "Link AE and AF Point"... etc
Link AE and AF Point

Yes you've stumbled upon a particularly confusing feature there (because it is only skimmed over in the manual) and many folks have documented conflicting assumptions about what it does.

As far as I can tell, the following is correct, but I recently sold most of my gear (ready for buying new) so don't have a GR to test it on at the moment.

Back in the day, both Matrix Metering and Spot Metering were hardware dependent. Matrix Metering had its own fixed pattern to meter different segments across the frame and make a reading based on combing the different values from the different segments.

Similarly spot metering used a small fixed segment in the centre of the frame to obtain the reading, so spot metering required use of the centre spot.

When Ricoh went digital, they based their settings around what traditional photographers were used to.

So matrix metering uses a fixed segments across the frame (but from the sensor), while spot metering uses a small centre segment (but from sensor).

Turning on "Link AE and AF Point" has the following effect:

Matrix Metering: The segment containing the AF point is given higher priority when the values from the different segments are combined into the resulting meter reading.

Spot Metering: A small segment centred on the AF point is used as the spot segment for taking the meter reading.
Appreciate the congrats!

So what you're saying is that the Link AE and AF Point feature, when turned on, analyzes a slightly broader segment than spot metering?

If both Auto-area Focus and Multi-segment metering (Ricoh speak) are selected, and let's say that the auto focus picks the closest subject, which for this example is at the bottom left of the screen, and the Link AE and AF Point feature is on, then the metering will occur near the bottom left of the screen even though both the focus and metering are broad spectrum?
Not quite, I think perhaps a diagram will help make it clearer:

+ is the focus point selected (chosen by you or by AF)
+ is the focus point selected (chosen by you or by AF)

Does that help?
 
I just posted a thread in Samples & Galleries called "Italian Market/E. Passyunk Ave. if anyone wants to take a peek.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys, quick question for those still hanging around this thread:

I have the level turned on, and sometimes level and tilt. The level is a green line while the tilt is a yellow line.

In the manual, and on a couple videos I've seen, the level line has two triangles in the middle, one pointing up and one pointing down. Also, there may be triangles at the end of the line pointing inward. I do not have any of these triangles.

My firmware is ver. 1.5
 
Hi guys, quick question for those still hanging around this thread:

I have the level turned on, and sometimes level and tilt. The level is a green line while the tilt is a yellow line.

In the manual, and on a couple videos I've seen, the level line has two triangles in the middle, one pointing up and one pointing down. Also, there may be triangles at the end of the line pointing inward. I do not have any of these triangles.

My firmware is ver. 1.5
those triangles should only show up when the axis is perfectly level
 
Hi guys, quick question for those still hanging around this thread:

I have the level turned on, and sometimes level and tilt. The level is a green line while the tilt is a yellow line.

In the manual, and on a couple videos I've seen, the level line has two triangles in the middle, one pointing up and one pointing down. Also, there may be triangles at the end of the line pointing inward. I do not have any of these triangles.

My firmware is ver. 1.5
those triangles should only show up when the axis is perfectly level
Correction: I have the triangles on the end but not the middle.
 
those triangles should only show up when the axis is perfectly level
Correction: I have the triangles on the end but not the middle.
those side triangles represent the horizontal level, the middle ones represent the vertical level. rotate the camera up or down until you line up the yellow and white/green lines
 
those triangles should only show up when the axis is perfectly level
Correction: I have the triangles on the end but not the middle.
those side triangles represent the horizontal level, the middle ones represent the vertical level. rotate the camera up or down until you line up the yellow and white/green lines
Yes, I get that. But I believe there are supposed to be two triangles in the center of the green line too. Maybe they did away with them in ver. 1.5? It's not really an issue for me but I hate a glitch in the software.

Here's a pic. Sorry for the bad pic but trying to juggle the GR and a phone at once.



9e81c15636bc487486f84bbad00498ac.jpg
 
those triangles should only show up when the axis is perfectly level
Correction: I have the triangles on the end but not the middle.
those side triangles represent the horizontal level, the middle ones represent the vertical level. rotate the camera up or down until you line up the yellow and white/green lines
Yes, I get that. But I believe there are supposed to be two triangles in the center of the green line too. Maybe they did away with them in ver. 1.5? It's not really an issue for me but I hate a glitch in the software.

Here's a pic. Sorry for the bad pic but trying to juggle the GR and a phone at once.

9e81c15636bc487486f84bbad00498ac.jpg
could be, hard to say. try putting it on a completely level surface and see

only have a IIIx with me currently (fw 1.0) and they both show up when level

--
 
I actually made a mini cobra knot strap from about 1mm cord. The ring gets quite stiff so it's easy to put your finger though but the connection to the camera is just the 2 thin cords which makes it flexible and quite comfortable. Pinky straps are just excellent for the GR though. Wrist straps are such a hassle in comparison.


Didn't follow that tutorial but it gives an idea.
 
I think Ricoh embeds a very large jpeg in the dng. This will have your custom image settings. It's compressed but decent quality. If you find a software that can extract it you always have raw+. I use exiftool but it's command line only.
 
Last edited:
I actually made a mini cobra knot strap from about 1mm cord. The ring gets quite stiff so it's easy to put your finger though but the connection to the camera is just the 2 thin cords which makes it flexible and quite comfortable. Pinky straps are just excellent for the GR though. Wrist straps are such a hassle in comparison.


Didn't follow that tutorial but it gives an idea.
thats pretty cool. I just use two industrial zip-ties, so the loop always stays open when I reach for it one-handed
 
Hey guys, couple of questions:

1) What is the "animation" feature. People keep saying to turn it off to save battery life. I thought it might be where the "Street Edition" screen comes up when I turn off the camera but it's not.

2) How do you reprogram the video button? I have reprogrammed the Fn button to Snap but I can't seem to find the setting for the video button. I suppose I would keep it for Wifi but I'm unable to get it to work. I get an error message on my phone. Haven't tried Bluetooth connectivity yet.

3) And honestly, I'm still confused on Save Settings vs. Recall for the U1, U2, and U3 modes. If I want to change a U1 setting do I perform this task in Save Settings or Recall?

4) Should Flicker Reduction be set to 50 or 60? The default is 50. If this setting is best when would one use 60?

Thanks for any help.
 
Hey guys, couple of questions:

1) What is the "animation" feature. People keep saying to turn it off to save battery life. I thought it might be where the "Street Edition" screen comes up when I turn off the camera but it's not.

2) How do you reprogram the video button? I have reprogrammed the Fn button to Snap but I can't seem to find the setting for the video button. I suppose I would keep it for Wifi but I'm unable to get it to work. I get an error message on my phone. Haven't tried Bluetooth connectivity yet.

3) And honestly, I'm still confused on Save Settings vs. Recall for the U1, U2, and U3 modes. If I want to change a U1 setting do I perform this task in Save Settings or Recall?

4) Should Flicker Reduction be set to 50 or 60? The default is 50. If this setting is best when would one use 60?

Thanks for any help.
Consulting the manual could be a good resource for you, for example the Animation setting is explained on pg 47. Using the index at the back is a good way to find things quickly.

Flicker reduction should be 60hz in the US, it has to do with AC current frequencies in the US versus other parts of the world like Asia and Europe.
 
Hey guys, couple of questions:

1) What is the "animation" feature. People keep saying to turn it off to save battery life. I thought it might be where the "Street Edition" screen comes up when I turn off the camera but it's not.

2) How do you reprogram the video button? I have reprogrammed the Fn button to Snap but I can't seem to find the setting for the video button. I suppose I would keep it for Wifi but I'm unable to get it to work. I get an error message on my phone. Haven't tried Bluetooth connectivity yet.

3) And honestly, I'm still confused on Save Settings vs. Recall for the U1, U2, and U3 modes. If I want to change a U1 setting do I perform this task in Save Settings or Recall?

4) Should Flicker Reduction be set to 50 or 60? The default is 50. If this setting is best when would one use 60?

Thanks for any help.
Consulting the manual could be a good resource for you, for example the Animation setting is explained on pg 47. Using the index at the back is a good way to find things quickly.

Flicker reduction should be 60hz in the US, it has to do with AC current frequencies in the US versus other parts of the world like Asia and Europe.
All I do is read the manual. I have both the booklet and online version.

So the ability of flicking from one photo to the next using the touch screen is called Animation?

I changed the Flicker to 60hz.

Thank you for answering a few of my questions.
 
I finally did find the Movie/Wireless button change option.

It is not at all clear in the manual but it and other button setting changes can be found under "Fn Button Setting" in the C2 menu.

I thought this was only for the Function key above the D-dial but alas!

I set mine to Crop mode.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top