Jack Tingle
Veteran Member
I use my MC Rokkor 55mm & Celtic 100mm with dirt cheap adapters from Amazon. My only complaint is the 100mm weighs a ton. The 55mm, f/1.9 is a great, bright telephoto. Yes, they're manual. They always were, so...
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My retirement gift to me...a GX85!! Now I need help, please.
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sprocket-docket
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I used the GX85 religiously for over three years. It's a great camera! Panasonic made several significant improvements with that model, from the lack of AA filter, new shutter that is gentler and eliminated shutter-caused vibration, better colors with their JPEG engine and the L Monochrome B&W JPEG mode. Have fun exploring that JPEG setting - you can apply color filters in the settings like you can in real life on the end of the lens with film. I particularly like the smooth look of the green filter in L Monochrome. Turn noise reduction all the way down. Noise with this camera looks film-like, just some appreciable grain unless you significantly underexpose, whereupon it will start to look ugly. Learn to rely on the excellent in-body image stabilization for slower shutter speeds and you can usually stay lower in ISO.
The GX85 is particularly suited to small primes. My favorites were the Panasonic 20/1.7 and the Olympus 25/1.8. They each have different rendering but both are excellent.
One setting I liked to use, particularly for street photography and similar situations where you want fast response was the "half-press release" to ON, which means, while the camera will still autofocus the lens, it will trip the shutter as soon as focus confirmation is reached. It makes it faster since it doesn't require your senses to realize that focus has been achieved, and then your brain to tell your finger to fully depress the shutter. I paired this with a custom setup of AF points that were sort of based around the rule of thirds, so if I were composing with a subject somewhat nearer to me that was more or less inside the thirds area, the camera would focus on it and shoot. The rest of the time I shot in single-point, center AF and recomposed, obviously for that type of shooting I turned the half-press release off.
My last recommendation, if you want a somewhat better hold on the camera, get a leather half case. I got the Gariz version and it was super high quality, looked and felt great and provided additional purchase for my grip. Enjoy your camera!
The GX85 is particularly suited to small primes. My favorites were the Panasonic 20/1.7 and the Olympus 25/1.8. They each have different rendering but both are excellent.
One setting I liked to use, particularly for street photography and similar situations where you want fast response was the "half-press release" to ON, which means, while the camera will still autofocus the lens, it will trip the shutter as soon as focus confirmation is reached. It makes it faster since it doesn't require your senses to realize that focus has been achieved, and then your brain to tell your finger to fully depress the shutter. I paired this with a custom setup of AF points that were sort of based around the rule of thirds, so if I were composing with a subject somewhat nearer to me that was more or less inside the thirds area, the camera would focus on it and shoot. The rest of the time I shot in single-point, center AF and recomposed, obviously for that type of shooting I turned the half-press release off.
My last recommendation, if you want a somewhat better hold on the camera, get a leather half case. I got the Gariz version and it was super high quality, looked and felt great and provided additional purchase for my grip. Enjoy your camera!
Off The Mark
Veteran Member
Correct on all assumptions.
My understanding is the GX85 has IBIS (in-body image stabilization), so when you mount your Minolta / Nikon F lens to an adapter and then to the GX85, it might ask you for the focal length of the lens. This helps the stabilization algorithm better stabilize your lens.
You would input the physical focal length of a lens, even though it is a 2X equivalent. Meaning, if it is a 50mm lens, put in 50mm, not the 2X amount of 100mm, even though the focal length is equivalent to 100m when mounted on an m43 camera like your GX85.
Also, simple "dumb" adapters (meaning no electronic contacts between the adapter and the camera body or lens) should only cost around $15. I am pretty sure that there are some companies that make adapters that cost A LOT MORE but all the dumb adapters I own are in the $12 to $15 range and they all work perfectly fine.
If you do get an adapter, try focusing at infinity with your lenses, since when there ARE problems with adapters, then the usual problem is the inability to focus at infinity.
Off The Mark
Veteran Member
I am new to m43 myself, so some things that might seem obvious to others might not seem obvious to those like me who are new to m43.
1) If you are thinking of buying lenses for your GX85, be aware that there is an OLDER format called four-thirds, which is different from micro four thirds (which is the mount size of your GX85). You might come across those four-thirds lenses if you ever shop on craigslist or ebay or other used camera places. They require an adapter to use on a micro four thirds mount. One way to identify them is that the original four thirds lenses have 9 electronic contacts on the back of the lens, and the micro four thirds have 11 electronic contacts on the back of the lens.
I would encourage you to stick with native micro four third mount lenses though instead of adapting the original four thirds mount unless there is a SPECIFIC four-thirds lens you know you want and the comparable micro four thirds lens is either not available or too expensive.
2) Micro four thirds lenses are (as far as I know) compatible across camera brands. For instance, Olympus m43 lenses will work on Panasonic m43 cameras. Just there might be SOME benefits in sticking with same-brand camera bodies and lenses. The autofocus or the stabilization MIGHT work better when you are using same-brand lens and body combinations.
Of course, you may end up just adapting lenses you already own, which is fine.
Third-party companies that make lenses compatible with your GX85 might just list them as m43 / micro four thirds and not designate them as "compatible with Panasonic." Just know that they should work.
1) If you are thinking of buying lenses for your GX85, be aware that there is an OLDER format called four-thirds, which is different from micro four thirds (which is the mount size of your GX85). You might come across those four-thirds lenses if you ever shop on craigslist or ebay or other used camera places. They require an adapter to use on a micro four thirds mount. One way to identify them is that the original four thirds lenses have 9 electronic contacts on the back of the lens, and the micro four thirds have 11 electronic contacts on the back of the lens.
I would encourage you to stick with native micro four third mount lenses though instead of adapting the original four thirds mount unless there is a SPECIFIC four-thirds lens you know you want and the comparable micro four thirds lens is either not available or too expensive.
2) Micro four thirds lenses are (as far as I know) compatible across camera brands. For instance, Olympus m43 lenses will work on Panasonic m43 cameras. Just there might be SOME benefits in sticking with same-brand camera bodies and lenses. The autofocus or the stabilization MIGHT work better when you are using same-brand lens and body combinations.
Of course, you may end up just adapting lenses you already own, which is fine.
Third-party companies that make lenses compatible with your GX85 might just list them as m43 / micro four thirds and not designate them as "compatible with Panasonic." Just know that they should work.
farmer35
Leading Member
Mostly true. You can do it fully manual if you want. You can also shoot semi-automatic on aperture priority. Obviously you have to choose your own aperture but the camera can choose the shutter speed (and raise the iso if needed). You also have magnification and focus peaking in the camera as focus aids. You'll figure it out when you get around to trying it.
H
Henry Richardson
Guest
I bought a cheap adapter on ebay or Amazon in 2012. I think it cost about $8-10. Works fine. I occasionally use it to mount my Minolta MC Rokkor-X PG 50mm f1.4 that I bought in 1976.
You can use A mode (aperture priority) with the old manual focus lenses. You select the aperture and the camera will select the shutter speed. You can also use Auto ISO, if you want.
You can use focus peaking and/or magnification to make it easier to manual focus.
These are uninteresting photos, but just examples of using my old Minolta lens on m4/3.
--
Henry Richardson
Dr Hal
Veteran Member
David Thorpe's books are very good. There is a lot of info on Youtube that will be helpful to you. Most people use the A mode. I learned photography a long long time ago before things were automated and I prefer shutter priority. I use auto iso because if you don't you will wind up with a lot of blurry pictures because the camera will set the shutter speed too slow. My favorite lens is the PL 15mm 1.7 lens. It is a magnificent lens and is on my camera most of the time. That keeps it simple for you. Set your shutter speed to 1/200th of a second and put that lens on the camera and it will do the work for you. Download Faststone. It is a free program that will do simple corrections and you will be able to view your pictures and save them. It supports both Raw and Jpegs. The program is so good that even though it is free, I send them $25 every year.
Panasonic makes wonderful cameras and you will enjoy yourself.
Hal
Panasonic makes wonderful cameras and you will enjoy yourself.
Hal
nurseMarty
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Dear Uncle Mo:
Congratulations on your retirement and gift.
I purchased a GX 85 and love it. The only thing I have a problem with is the body has no audio jack. It does nice video and love the IBIS. Panasonic makes bodies with lovely colors SOOC. This body is small and lite so I can walk the streets for hours and my neck and shoulders aren’t crying.
Since you are starting with this body into the m43 system, the two lens kit was a steal. As you know, there is a plethora of very nice primes and zooms make by Panasonic & Olympus in addition to 3rd party manufacturers.
Please share some images from your new GX85.
Mask On Nurse Marty
Congratulations on your retirement and gift.
I purchased a GX 85 and love it. The only thing I have a problem with is the body has no audio jack. It does nice video and love the IBIS. Panasonic makes bodies with lovely colors SOOC. This body is small and lite so I can walk the streets for hours and my neck and shoulders aren’t crying.
Since you are starting with this body into the m43 system, the two lens kit was a steal. As you know, there is a plethora of very nice primes and zooms make by Panasonic & Olympus in addition to 3rd party manufacturers.
Please share some images from your new GX85.
Mask On Nurse Marty
alcelc
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To your earlier question on Live View, we have 2 preview modes. Live View is the default to all except M shooting mode of Panny camera. It is a simulated image from sensor data. Please note, since before capturing the aperture is always wide open for AF, so is the shutter speed, the actual lightness of the frame is simulated upon the estimated level at 0ev metering exposure of exposure meter, then add on the estimated effect of ISO plus other JPG setting/ filter/ effect etc, as well as the amount of Exposure Compensation.
Preview is another LV similar feature which can be activated anytime under iA/P/S/A or when Constant Preview in Menu has been set to ON, then becomes a default viewing mode to M (no Live View for M).
Since under Preview GX85 will stop down the aperture physically to the set value, the simulated image will be closer to the to be taken image ( on DoF and lightness of the frame) than the image simulated by Live View. It will also reduce the refresh rate on update of the simulated image to mimic the shutter speed in used. Preview also does not have the restriction of Live View (e.g. Live View will stop to update while EC > +/-3ev).
On GX85, I assign the Preview to fn2. It is an excellent tool to confirm exposure setting if I have doubt on the Live View.
GX85 already has a very usable jpg engine and if we can do the setting almost right on shooting, except for some special conditions (very complex lighting environment and it is planned to do editing for certain effect etc, and in which case I would take RAW), basically not much PP work would need (to my requirement, YMMV).
In order to keep PP work minimal, ETTR is not used 100% of time. For certain situation I might allow overblown reasonable amount of highlight (non essential to the frame) for higher exposure. This can keep noise low and have more pleasant SOOC JPG output. Thanks to zebra. It is not only a good and fast exposure setting guide, it can also let me know where and how much area will be overblown. This exact info helps me to decide on how high exposure I can push.
My 2 cents.
--
Albert
** Please forgive my typo error.
** Please feel free to download the original image I posted here and edit it as you like
**
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Henry Falkner
Veteran Member
Thanks for your reply. The 35mm SLR Edixamat Reflex I had in the 60ies was manual only. My first 35mm camera with a built-in meter was the Canon QL17 in the 80ies. I had to super-impose a black needle on the moving red needle in the viewfinder. From the 90ies I still have the Olympus 35mm all-in-one 3x zoom SLRs, which do have auto-exposure.
So the learning curve is possibly not as steep for him as he anticipates. Besides, much of the film-related terminology has been transposed into the digital age.
Thanks for coming back to my post.
Henry
alcelc
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I have a <US$10 no brand name dummy adapter (from a clearance sale) for my old Nikon ais lenses (a 28mm f/2.8, a 50mm f/1.8 and a 35-135 f/3.5-4 macro) since G1 back in 2009. It is used until now on GX85 and G85.
Due to the 2x crop factor, at the cost of a narrower AoV, I can enjoy the section of best IQ of these lenses whereas the edge softness on wide open are cropped away...
Because of no communication between the camera body and the lens (for some adapter if they have electronic contacts, for whatever reason says sub standard or improper signal mapping etc, we might find lens error easily. Lens error will never happen to dummy adapters), we have to set aperture on the lens. For lenses without aperture control ring, we have to use a smart adapter (which provide a primitive aperture control ring on the adapter) or a proper AF adapter (which is much more expensive).
When we control the aperture on the lens, the in-camera metering can adjust the other parameters (shutter speed and ISO) according to the light fall on the sensor. Hence, I can use A mode or M mode as shooting with native M43 AF lenses. Exposure Compensation is supported, as well as Live View/Preview...
Set Shoot w/o lens in (in Custom Menu) to ON, the Focus point magnification (I use PnP setting in MF Assist Display under Custom Menu) and Focus Peaking (Detect Level = LOW in Custom Menu) making MF a joy to me.
A recent shot from the mediocre Nikkor 35-135 f/3.5-4 on G85 (same sensor as GX85) to share, the sharpness of this lens indeed can keep me happy.
Happy shooting.
--
Albert
** Please forgive my typo error.
** Please feel free to download the original image I posted here and edit it as you like
**
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Dr Hal
Veteran Member
In 1956, I had a Kodak Retina IIIC. It had a built in meter. I had to superimpose a black needle over the red needle to set the f stop and shutter speed. The amazing thing was that I used Kodachrome with an ASA of 10 and it worked fine.
Hal
Hal
Olymore
Veteran Member
No problem, it was when I was growing up in the 1970s that integrated circuits and microprocessors began to be used in SLRs and cameras such as the Canon AE1 (SP) and later the Canon A1 (AP, SP, Program mode) were introduced.
Then by the mid 1980s that led to the Canon T70/80/90 and then the Autofocus EOS models in the late 1980s.
I still get a buzz when I see a picture of one of the 1970s/80s SLRs, probably because I spent much of my youth drooling over them though I started out with two humble Praktica SLRs before moving to Olympus.
Then by the mid 1980s that led to the Canon T70/80/90 and then the Autofocus EOS models in the late 1980s.
I still get a buzz when I see a picture of one of the 1970s/80s SLRs, probably because I spent much of my youth drooling over them though I started out with two humble Praktica SLRs before moving to Olympus.
Having learned photography on match needle exposure meters (actually, I first learned the basics on an old Ricoh "35" manual rangefinder and a separate Weston meter that allowed film speed to be expressed in ASA or DIN!!) and then getting the FE, I think you've hit the nail on the head. My learning curve will not be as steep as I originally thought. I know more than I thought
As I said in my intro post, I'm not a newbie to photography, I'm a newbie to digital photography! I'll learn the buttons as I go, for now I'll use what I know and have as much fun as I can.
And when I need help, I'll ask. You fine folks have already proven to me that this forums members will among the best resources I can find.
Specific question:
When reviewing images I've taken there are several views that can be changed by pressing the display button. One shows the image with some data about what settings were used, another shows the image and associated histograms, another one shows the image in an inset with info on the settings (F-stop, ISO, time and date the image was made,etc).
Nowhere can I find what lens or focal length was used and I have searched everywhere.
Where is that hidden? Is there a setting I've not found? Or a page in the manual that explains it?
When reviewing images I've taken there are several views that can be changed by pressing the display button. One shows the image with some data about what settings were used, another shows the image and associated histograms, another one shows the image in an inset with info on the settings (F-stop, ISO, time and date the image was made,etc).
Nowhere can I find what lens or focal length was used and I have searched everywhere.
Where is that hidden? Is there a setting I've not found? Or a page in the manual that explains it?
alcelc
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It is part of the EXIF and need an (most) image viewer software (e.g. the free FastStone) to show it on computer.
I dont think that info is available to view on the camera weirdly, not 100% on that one but afaik!
Are you saying it's not available on the camera in a playback seeing?
That would be my first disappointment.
Off The Mark
Veteran Member
I don't know if this will work, but it works on my Panasonic S1 and S5 cameras:
Press the display button until you see the Histograms.
Then press the down button (the bracketing / timer button right below the Menu / Set).
Does it cycle through different screens?
Apologies in advance if that doesn't work.
thats a good shout, but doesnt work on the GX85, I'm wondering which way my G9 is now XD
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