is there such thing as a -price is no object- full auto camera that can beat an iPhone and others?

Hello. I have a Nikon Z50 and a Sony A7C camera and even though I have followed some tutorials and have programmed recommended settings on those cameras I still can't get superb looking photos than photos taken by other people with the same or lesser cameras. Even applying LUMINAR AI filters, my photos don't look remarkable at all. On the other hand, whenever I take photos with my iPhone 12 Pro Max, without doing any tweaking, just pointing and shooting, I take almost as good or even better photos.

I know it takes a lot of practice and learning, both for taking photos and for editing BUT since I haven't really found the time to learn and/or practice, I've come to the conclusion that my IDEAL CAMERA would be one that could be used like an iPhone, that is, just pointing and shooting WITHOUT doing anything else but getting way better results that with the iPhone.

I've seen cameras that have auto scene recognition and that in fully automatic mode, the camera decides everything, including white balance, exposure, shutter etc and the results are great (samples I've seen on Flickr, Amazon, etc) but I'm afraid to keep spending on more cameras without getting the results I want.

So my question is: if money is no object, do you know any camera that can take photos/and videos in FULL AUTO and still get amazing results similar as if the photo were taken by a pro?

Thank you very much, and please excuse me if my question sounds stupid.

Best regards,

sonic123 said:

So my question is: if money is no object, do you know any camera that can take photos/and videos in FULL AUTO and still get amazing results similar as if the photo were taken by a pro?

Click to expand...

Of course. Some pros shoot JPEG and even though not exactly in full auto, close enough. Their photos look like photos taken by a pro.

sonic123 said:

Hello. I have a Nikon Z50 and a Sony A7C camera and even though I have followed some tutorials and have programmed recommended settings on those cameras I still can't get superb looking photos than photos taken by other people with the same or lesser cameras. Even applying LUMINAR AI filters, my photos don't look remarkable at all. On the other hand, whenever I take photos with my iPhone 12 Pro Max, without doing any tweaking, just pointing and shooting, I take almost as good or even better photos.

I know it takes a lot of practice and learning, both for taking photos and for editing BUT since I haven't really found the time to learn and/or practice, I've come to the conclusion that my IDEAL CAMERA would be one that could be used like an iPhone, that is, just pointing and shooting WITHOUT doing anything else but getting way better results that with the iPhone.

I've seen cameras that have auto scene recognition and that in fully automatic mode, the camera decides everything, including white balance, exposure, shutter etc and the results are great (samples I've seen on Flickr, Amazon, etc) but I'm afraid to keep spending on more cameras without getting the results I want.

So my question is: if money is no object, do you know any camera that can take photos/and videos in FULL AUTO and still get amazing results similar as if the photo were taken by a pro?

Thank you very much, and please excuse me if my question sounds stupid.

Best regards,

Click to expand...

Sort of...but not really.

Phone cameras are amazing because of their computational photography. There's a lot of processing going on behind the lens and they've gotten really good at it. You'd be hard pressed to find a camera that has professional quality specs and also concentrates on their auto features. If you cared to spend a lot of time setting up the camera initially (playing with picture profiles, in camera histograms, setting ISO limits, etc) then you could get great out of camera results. Fuji cameras have really good 'film simulations' that provide great jpeg results, but at the cost of having to set them up to your liking (and deciding which one to use, and when).

You're not going to find a camera that you can just pick up and set to auto and shoot like you do with your camera that will get better results. In some situations, it might be better, but in many the phone's processing will do a better job than what cameras are doing with their jpeg engines right now.

If you want to learn how to get similar results, I'd recommend leaning away from Auto/scene modes, and either jump in to full manual (it's what I did when I started learning), or aperture/shutter priority modes. Let your camera decide white balance with auto-white balance, then you just need to figure out what combination of Aperture/Shutter Speed/ISO suits your needs. There are tons of tutorials explaining the relationship between these and why you might choose one over another. Shoot in RAW. Then it's just a matter of playing around with the RAW files in whatever software you use to get the look you want.

You don't need to keep spending more money to get better results, just keep trying and watch tutorials and you'll see improvement.

But, to answer your overall question, it doesn't matter how much you spend, you won't find a camera that is as easy to use as a phone that will produce equivalent results.

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

I like option 3 as does the author, practice all four options to see which one works best for you.

Also, after you do the final press of the shutter button to take the shot. Do not move, hold the camera steady and count one thousand one, one thousand two, then you can move.

Hold your upper arms tight to the sides of your chest and only move your forearms up and down and twist your torso left and right to frame the shot.

--
Norm

It may help if you show us examples of unsatisfactory images from Z50 vs satisfactory images from iPhone.

Please allow me to say, camera is not for you. Use your smartphone.

Indeed if you really wish to keep a camera, please understand the mire entry class camera will be designed for more P&S, more pleasing SOOC output as well. Indeed you might appreciate the output from a smaller size sensor as well.

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I'll give a try to the NIKON D3500 because from what I've read I see that differently from y Z50, the D3500 has a GUIDE MODE that go hand in hand with you to achieve better results with your photos based on the scenario i'm shooting.

The Leica Q2 it's a very expensive camera but I've seen some reviews stating that that camera take fenomenal photos in auto mode.

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

I would also like to see some examples.

Phone-Cams are indeed great (especially now in low-light), but you really should be able to take equal/acceptable images unless you are doing more wrong.

If you don't have good lighting, no camera will have enough magic powers to produce really professional results.

sonic123 said:

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I'll give a try to the NIKON D3500 because from what I've read I see that differently from y Z50, the D3500 has a GUIDE MODE that go hand in hand with you to achieve better results with your photos based on the scenario i'm shooting.

The Leica Q2 it's a very expensive camera but I've seen some reviews stating that that camera take fenomenal photos in auto mode.

Click to expand...

I would guess a Live View based shooting camera, their real time response on the setting before we take a shot, would benefit you more.

As long as we could take the Live View serious (simple as when the screen or target looking dark in LCD/EVF, increase exposure by the Exposure Compensation, or if it is too bright, reduce exposure etc...), hit the shutter button only when the lightness condition looking good to you, the focus box has been locked on your aimed target... no reason you would take a technically off output...

On artistic side like composition, framing etc would down to your talent.

Non Live View based DSLR shooting are not optimized for Live View shooting as good as mirrorless. Shoot-playback-adjust style of shooting of non Live View based operation might, IMHO, needs relaitvely a lot more pre-learnt basic, also give shooter less direct connection to the operation, than the see-to-adjust Live View shooting. This small difference indeed IMHO can determine how fast a beginner can pick up the basic.

I might edge towards mirrorless for beginner to learn the craft from ground zero. To your case, a 1" or smaller size sensor compact (much deeper DoF to reduce chances of out of focus output), designed with P&S in mind ( in case if Live View is still too difficult to you) might be a better tool helping your transition from phone camera. P&S could also produce more pleasant SOOC output more close to phone, whereas pro class camera might edge for more flat/natural output leaving more room for PP.

Forget those preset scenery modes. As long as we know f/stop (for sharpness and DoF control) and shutter speed (stability of handheld shooting and to capture motion), plus ability of our eye to judge lightness condition (who can't or unless we refuse to do so), we need nothing more for basic shooting. Advices of those on screen guide could be learnt by a simple google once. Who needs it for every shot?

If you can take Live View serious, I guess a few shooting sessions might allow you to taste the easy and beauty of camera shooting and the flexibility of a zoom lens. Move onto higher spec camera only when you start to feel the limitation of your tool. The higher spec/more pro class models are designed for experience users only. If we are lack of the skill, we might be played by the camera instead.

Might try to discuss your need on the compact forums of various brands to look for their recommendation for specific models.

My 2 cents.

sonic123 said:

is there such thing as a -price is no object- full auto camera that can beat an iPhone and others?

Click to expand...

Almost all of them. My D850 has a full-auto mode... just pick it up and shoot, and it has a MUCH better sensor than any iphone.

PhotoTeach2 said:

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

Click to expand...

what?

CptAmerica said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

Click to expand...

what?

Click to expand...

Just try stiffening frozen and holding your breath 1500 times in 8 hours and then ask "what" !!!

sonic123 said:

So my question is: if money is no object, do you know any camera that can take photos/and videos in FULL AUTO and still get amazing results similar as if the photo were taken by a pro?

Click to expand...

The iPhone works from the assumption that the user doesn't know what he/she is doing, so it makes lots of decisions, takes multiple photos, does a whole lot of work behind the scene to make photos look better than what you are looking at in real life.

Digital cameras work from the assumption that the photographer does know what he/she is doing and what they want from their photos, so it does what it is told and leaves the fancy processing to the user. You can get those "professional" looking photos, but you need to do the work yourself.

There are focus- and exposure-stacking modes that do some of what the iPhone does, but the purpose of these cameras is to give the user maximum creative control.

So you can get what you want, but the learning curve is a little higher. I don't agree that a camera is not for you; if you want to put the time into learning, I think you ought to.

That said, "professional looking" depends largely on what you want. I don't care for oversaturated, over-processed photos, so I use straight-out-of camera JPGs with maybe a little tweaking to brightness and contrast but not much else. I use my phone for snapshots, and frankly notice little difference between my phone and digital-cam pictures. That said, I do have enough (film) experience to avoid some tricky lighting situation which I know is hard for the camera, and that a phoen could compensate for easily.

Suggestion: Try shooting in black and white for a little while. Gives you a new way of looking at things, and one better suited to a camera than a phone.

Aaron

PhotoTeach2 said:

CptAmerica said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

Click to expand...

what?

Click to expand...

Just try stiffening frozen and holding your breath 1500 times in 8 hours and then ask "what" !!!

Click to expand...

Did you read and try all four options?

Three of the options did mention pause your breathing. That is a lot different than holding your breath.

Maybe in your case option 4 would be best

"Do NOT pause or hold your breath at all, breathe normally, and take your shot while breathing."

This was for firearm training, the pause was while you pulled the trigger. For pictures it would be pause while you press the shutter button.

I did tell the OP to try all the options and use the one that works best for him.

I don't try stiffening frozen when firing a pistol or pressing the shutter button on the camera.

Just a solid stance using option 3

The article in the link is a good read for anyone that has the time.

--
Norm

PhotoTeach2 said:

CptAmerica said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

Click to expand...

what?

Click to expand...

Just try stiffening frozen and holding your breath 1500 times in 8 hours and then ask "what" !!!

Click to expand...

That's what I mean. You aren't supposed to do anything like that.

CptAmerica said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

CptAmerica said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

Norm Neely said:

This is for firing a firearm, but will also work for taking photos.

Breath Control While Shooting: 4 Options - USA Carry

Click to expand...

I used to shoot (polaroid) photos in night-clubs ... on "New Years Eve" ... I was BUSY and took non-stop photos from about 6pm to 2am ...

By the end of the evening, I chest/diaphragm was KILLING me. A couple of times I could not even walk any more and just found a corner and laid on the floor for about 30min.

The stupid thing was I did not even need to do that cause I was shooting (action-freezing) flash so camera-shake would not have been a big deal, but I was simply is the "habit" of (always) holding my breath for a shot, I never remembered it until too late (and I was "hurting").

Click to expand...

what?

Click to expand...

Just try stiffening frozen and holding your breath 1500 times in 8 hours and then ask "what" !!!

Click to expand...

That's what I mean. You aren't supposed to do anything like that.

Click to expand...

But that indeed was my habit, and it was not normally a problem except on New Years Eve when I always worked so hard and fast ...

Every year I would forget what an eventual problem it was by the end of the evening, (until it was too-late and I started hurting).

sonic123 said:

Hello. I have a Nikon Z50 and a Sony A7C camera and even though I have followed some tutorials and have programmed recommended settings on those cameras I still can't get superb looking photos than photos taken by other people with the same or lesser cameras. Even applying LUMINAR AI filters, my photos don't look remarkable at all. On the other hand, whenever I take photos with my iPhone 12 Pro Max, without doing any tweaking, just pointing and shooting, I take almost as good or even better photos.

I know it takes a lot of practice and learning, both for taking photos and for editing BUT since I haven't really found the time to learn and/or practice, I've come to the conclusion that my IDEAL CAMERA would be one that could be used like an iPhone, that is, just pointing and shooting WITHOUT doing anything else but getting way better results that with the iPhone.

I've seen cameras that have auto scene recognition and that in fully automatic mode, the camera decides everything, including white balance, exposure, shutter etc and the results are great (samples I've seen on Flickr, Amazon, etc) but I'm afraid to keep spending on more cameras without getting the results I want.

So my question is: if money is no object, do you know any camera that can take photos/and videos in FULL AUTO and still get amazing results similar as if the photo were taken by a pro?

Thank you very much, and please excuse me if my question sounds stupid.

Best regards,

Click to expand...

You'll find that some cameras have 'scene modes' or 'creative modes' which apply the same sort of processing options as phone cameras do. People say that phones do what they do due to 'computational photography' as though it were some kind of magic. Mostly, it isn't magic, it's just specific choices in how the images get processed in the camera or phone. The default choices are made according to the market, phones tend to use processing options with high contrast and saturation, because most people seem to prefer this. Cameras tend to tone down the contrast and saturation in their default settings because photographers as a demographic are though to like a more natural look.

Your Z50 has 'EFTC' modes, which are really for people that want to depart from the more realistic treatment. You might find that the 'Pop' mode produces something more like the phone.

sonic123 said:

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I'll give a try to the NIKON D3500 because from what I've read I see that differently from y Z50, the D3500 has a GUIDE MODE that go hand in hand with you to achieve better results with your photos based on the scenario i'm shooting.

The Leica Q2 it's a very expensive camera but I've seen some reviews stating that that camera take fenomenal photos in auto mode.

Click to expand...

If you're not ready to edit raws and really squeeze every bit of information from the file, Leica Q2 will be a dissapointment. Lens is excellent, 47Mpx sensor is a beast and the camera is a joy to use, but jpegs straight our of camera are (IMHO) just... proper. SOOC files certainly are not "stunning" the same way as you see in your IPhone gallery as the camera does maybe 10% of the average phone magic.

Maybe some Fuji cameras? A lot of people is not using raws due to how excellent their jpegs are?