Using extension tubes with long lens

Extension tubes effectiveness depends on the ratio between the tube and lens focal length

26mm vs 100mm is already pretty useless longer is a total waste

so usually you get a teleconverter and a long lens with a close working distance

the best lens on a Panasonic camera is the 50-200mm that as a working distance of 0.75m

with a 1.4x TC it has a 0.7x magnification with 2x TC 1x

the 100-400mm has a longer working distance and doesn’t take teleconverters (without modding) and is not the best choice

The olympus 40-150mm has a good working distance but the magnification is only 0.21x so not as useful
You are most confused. The Pany has a magnification of 0.25/0.5 while the Oly has 0.21/0.42.

Not the 0.50 vs 0.21difference you proclaimed.
 
Extension tubes effectiveness depends on the ratio between the tube and lens focal length

26mm vs 100mm is already pretty useless longer is a total waste

so usually you get a teleconverter and a long lens with a close working distance

the best lens on a Panasonic camera is the 50-200mm that as a working distance of 0.75m

with a 1.4x TC it has a 0.7x magnification with 2x TC 1x

the 100-400mm has a longer working distance and doesn’t take teleconverters (without modding) and is not the best choice

The olympus 40-150mm has a good working distance but the magnification is only 0.21x so not as useful
You are most confused. The Pany has a magnification of 0.25/0.5 while the Oly has 0.21/0.42.

Not the 0.50 vs 0.21difference you proclaimed.
I'm a little confused by your corrections. I see

LEICA DG VARIO-ELMARIT 50-200mm

0.25x (at 200mm 750mm distance)

M.Zuiko ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS

0.29x (at 400mm 1300mm distance)
 
Extension tubes effectiveness depends on the ratio between the tube and lens focal length

26mm vs 100mm is already pretty useless longer is a total waste

so usually you get a teleconverter and a long lens with a close working distance

the best lens on a Panasonic camera is the 50-200mm that as a working distance of 0.75m

with a 1.4x TC it has a 0.7x magnification with 2x TC 1x

the 100-400mm has a longer working distance and doesn’t take teleconverters (without modding) and is not the best choice

The olympus 40-150mm has a good working distance but the magnification is only 0.21x so not as useful
You are most confused. The Pany has a magnification of 0.25/0.5 while the Oly has 0.21/0.42.

Not the 0.50 vs 0.21difference you proclaimed.
I'm a little confused by your corrections. I see

LEICA DG VARIO-ELMARIT 50-200mm

0.25x (at 200mm 750mm distance)

M.Zuiko ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS

0.29x (at 400mm 1300mm distance)
I think you're the first person to mention the Olympus 100-400mm in this thread. Interceptor121 was talking about the Panasonic 100-400mm f/4-6.3 and Olympus 40-150mm.
 
Extension tubes effectiveness depends on the ratio between the tube and lens focal length

26mm vs 100mm is already pretty useless longer is a total waste

so usually you get a teleconverter and a long lens with a close working distance

the best lens on a Panasonic camera is the 50-200mm that as a working distance of 0.75m

with a 1.4x TC it has a 0.7x magnification with 2x TC 1x

the 100-400mm has a longer working distance and doesn’t take teleconverters (without modding) and is not the best choice

The olympus 40-150mm has a good working distance but the magnification is only 0.21x so not as useful
You are most confused. The Pany has a magnification of 0.25/0.5 while the Oly has 0.21/0.42.

Not the 0.50 vs 0.21difference you proclaimed.
I'm a little confused by your corrections. I see

LEICA DG VARIO-ELMARIT 50-200mm

0.25x (at 200mm 750mm distance)

M.Zuiko ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS

0.29x (at 400mm 1300mm distance)
I think you're the first person to mention the Olympus 100-400mm in this thread. Interceptor121 was talking about the Panasonic 100-400mm f/4-6.3 and Olympus 40-150mm.
Guess I wasn't reading carefully !

M.Zuiko ED 40-150mm f2.8 PRO

0.21x (at 150mm 700mm distance)
 
Thank you for the Photons to Photos Optical Primers. I actually was aware of the second (Close-up lens), have not followed all the math but the conclusions are (in this case) what matters. The one about extension is very useful.
 
Thank you! I also have one interesting image to show about extension in Macro-photography.

This has been in my gallery for years, and is about what we could call the dinosaur of extension: bellows. They are like very large extension tubes, and were totally outdated in recent years, especially with Focus Bracket techniques. The bellows are actually Olympus, with OM mount, and here used with an adaptor with the Lumix GF-1.





Panasonic GF-1, Olympus bellows and an OM lens

--

Antonio
 
Result of the shown contraption:







--
Antonio
 
This has been in my gallery for years, and is about what we could call the dinosaur of extension: bellows.
This dinosaur once used bellows. You can still buy bellows now but I have never found anyone that makes them with contacts for lenses which would not be that difficult. I think they would sell well, I feel a Kickstarter coming on ...
 
Extension tubes effectiveness depends on the ratio between the tube and lens focal length

26mm vs 100mm is already pretty useless longer is a total waste

so usually you get a teleconverter and a long lens with a close working distance

the best lens on a Panasonic camera is the 50-200mm that as a working distance of 0.75m

with a 1.4x TC it has a 0.7x magnification with 2x TC 1x

the 100-400mm has a longer working distance and doesn’t take teleconverters (without modding) and is not the best choice

The olympus 40-150mm has a good working distance but the magnification is only 0.21x so not as useful
You are most confused. The Pany has a magnification of 0.25/0.5 while the Oly has 0.21/0.42.

Not the 0.50 vs 0.21difference you proclaimed.
I'm a little confused by your corrections. I see

LEICA DG VARIO-ELMARIT 50-200mm

0.25x (at 200mm 750mm distance)

M.Zuiko ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS

0.29x (at 400mm 1300mm distance)

--
Bill ( Your trusted source for independent sensor data at PhotonsToPhotos )
nothing confusing about what I stated as it’s fairly obvious that the magnifications referred to the 40150 & 50200. I’ll leave to you to figure out which is manufactured by Olympus and Panasonic.

Hope you don’t get too confused again
 
Light travels at 2.13085531 × 10^14 smoots per fortnight. Catch some today!
The number I always use and remember (my field is radio and RF engineering) is 1 foot (30cm) per nanosecond or 1 foot wavelength at 1000MHz.
 
I am referring to equivalent
If you're going to use full frame equivalent specs then you should make that clear and use them consistently.

You rather confusingly used the actual magnification when mentioning the Olympus 40-150mm. For consistency you should have stuck with 35mm equivalence and stated its maximum magnification as 0.42x rather than 0.21x.
OK and so what?
There's a big difference between 0.21x and 0.5x magnification. There's not such a big difference between 0.21x and 0.25x magnification.

Personally I don't understand why you'd use full frame equivalent figures for magnification, while still using the actual focal lengths and apertures. Mixing and matching actual and equivalent without stating what you're doing is a recipe for confusion at the best of times, but you should at least keep it consistent between lenses.
0.42x at 150mm is still not what you need
Having "0.5x" at 200mm may well be better, but I think it's a stretch to say that it's needed.

You were arguing that adding an extension tube to longer lenses was pointless, but even a single 16mm tube would make more of a difference, taking the Olympus lens to around 0.32x (0.64x full frame equivalent) at 150mm.
400/280=1.42 working distance doesn’t change the 50-200mm has now a benefit with 2x tc the benefit is higher but at the end 400mm has too narrow fov to be useful
Personally I regularly shoot subjects like butterflies and dragonflies at 400mm. I often appreciate the additional working distance and background blur. It helps with scittish subjects, and can be essential when it's difficult to get closer, e.g. dragonflies over a pond.
The point is do you do that because you have a choice or because that lens is the only one you have? There is not much point arguing that something you don't have experience with is better or worse and besides some critter are larger than others.
I own the 200mm f/2.8, 40-150mm f/2.8, and 100-400mm. I actually think that all of those lenses work well for shooting subjects like butterflies and dragonflies. I'm sure the same is true of the 50-200mm, but all have their advantages and disadvantages.

The Olympus 40-150mm works with TCs, and is well suited for use with extension tubes or close-up lenses because of the somewhat shorter focal length. Personally I really appreciate that it doesn't extend when zooming. You can use it up close, in a tight space, without worrying about bumping anything with the end of the lens when you zoom in and out.

The 200mm f/2.8 is sharp, fast, and has TCs to provide greater magnification and reach, but it's a relatively heavy lens and doesn't offer the convenience of a zoom.

The 100-400mm is slower, but offers a versatile zoom range and has more reach than anything except the 200mm + 2x TC.

To me they're all close enough in magnification capabilities that the difference isn't really a big deal.
I have the 50-200mm and the 100-400mm and both tc. The 100-400mm is a heavy lens to go around bugs the 50-200mm even with the TC is lighter and more useful as you can get closer so at the end you achieve more effective magnification
The weight difference is certainly an advantage for the 50-200mm. I would argue that not having to get closer can be an advantage of the 400mm. The 50-200mm + 1.4x TC won't offer more effective magnification if the limiting factor is how close you can get to the subject. Standing at the edge of a pond, the 400mm will let you fill the frame with something a bit further out over the water.
The 100-400mm is a very useful lens but I take the 50-200mm with TC 1.4x any day of the week compared to the 100-400mm at 400mm

The point on the background blur is not an issue whatever you shoot and the 50-200mm achieves more magnification AND is a faster lens so the background is actually more blurred again you need to take the shots to see it for yourself
A longer focal length provides more background blur at a given f-stop and magnification. If I need to stop down to f/9 to get a whole dragonfly in focus when it's filling the frame, then I'll need to use f/9 for sufficient DOF regardless of the lens. Due to the greater compression, 400mm 0.25x f/9 will provide more background blur than 200mm 0.25x f/9.

If you don't understand that then I'd suggest you take your own advice: take some shots with the same subject/background at the same magnification/f-stop, and see for yourself what difference changing the focal length makes.
The blur depends only on fstop given the same magnification and I have tested it too

so once the subject size in the frame is the same the depth of field only depends on the aperture

the field of view behind is what is influenced by the focal length the blur isn’t
 
Nope the horizontal view changes from 69mm to 52mm which is around 1.33 with 26mm extension

this is due to the fact the lens at 1.3 meters is shorter than 400mm

the other issue is that you can no longer focus at infinity and you are getting darker images with the camera very slow to focus

if you have nothing else so be it however the benefit is not as much as you think and 33% more is far from 2x you mentioned a long way

with a frame width of 69 mm there are plenty of large moths and butterflies you can shoot
 
Light travels at 2.13085531 × 10^14 smoots per fortnight. Catch some today!
The number I always use and remember (my field is radio and RF engineering) is 1 foot (30cm) per nanosecond or 1 foot wavelength at 1000MHz.
Admiral Grace Hopper was well known for giving out 11.8 inch wires at her speeches, calling them nanoseconds. And then going on to explain that they weren't really, because electrons move faster in a vacuum than they do through wire.
 
A longer focal length provides more background blur at a given f-stop and magnification. If I need to stop down to f/9 to get a whole dragonfly in focus when it's filling the frame, then I'll need to use f/9 for sufficient DOF regardless of the lens. Due to the greater compression, 400mm 0.25x f/9 will provide more background blur than 200mm 0.25x f/9.
The blur depends only on fstop given the same magnification and I have tested it too

so once the subject size in the frame is the same the depth of field only depends on the aperture
Did you actually read my comment before responding?

I already pointed out that at the same subject framing depth of field only depends on the f-stop. What did you think I meant by "I'll need to use f/9 for sufficient DOF regardless of the lens"?

Depth of field isn't the same thing as background blur. In fact, DOF calculator apps usually provide separate figures for both, e.g. dofsimulator.net
the field of view behind is what is influenced by the focal length the blur isn’t
Of course the focal length you use can influence background blur. With the same framing and depth of field, shooting from further away with a narrower field of view will magnify the background more (i.e. greater lens compression), leading to a more blurred background in your image.

For example, if I shoot a butterfly on a flower with grass in the background, a long lens might smoothly blur the grass to little more than a green texture, while a wide angle lens at the same f-stop might clearly show every blade. There's obviously not such a difference between 200mm and 400mm, but it's still easily noticeable.

Here's a nice example borrowed from a Bob Atkins article:

25afd194fa634d0eb969833611138c99.jpg

He also has a background blur calculator on his site.

Do you really not know this, or are you just arguing for the sake of arguing?
 
Interesting.

I use my extension tubes on my 14-42mm and the 40-150mm. It never occurred to me to put them on the 75-300. So I tried it in the brush along my driveway. No science involved, just hacking away.
  1. They work fine.
  2. Mine are cheap and I'd have to buy a nicer, stronger set before I'd use them on a heavy lens regularly. The 40-150 plastic fantastic does not count as heavy. [Boggle]
  3. Min focusing distance drops down to a meter-ish.
  4. Magnification isn't really improved that much, but you can get the magnification from far, far, away.
  5. Hand-holding a 300mm lens is tricky at this scale.
All-in-all, a neat trick to add to my bag, but I don't think I'll be doing it much. The little kit lenses close focus really well as-is. Maybe at the botanical gardens, as you noted.

75-100mm no extension tubes, but with a crab spider. I have one closer and slightly better focused, but with no crab spider. :)
75-100mm no extension tubes, but with a crab spider. I have one closer and slightly better focused, but with no crab spider. :)

75-300mm with 26mm extension tubes
75-300mm with 26mm extension tubes
 
Light travels at 2.13085531 × 10^14 smoots per fortnight. Catch some today!
The number I always use and remember (my field is radio and RF engineering) is 1 foot (30cm) per nanosecond or 1 foot wavelength at 1000MHz.
Admiral Grace Hopper was well known for giving out 11.8 inch wires at her speeches, calling them nanoseconds. And then going on to explain that they weren't really, because electrons move faster in a vacuum than they do through wire.
Mark, a very neat demonstration - I'd not heard of that before. I may use it.

The physics is slightly broken unfortunately.

A radio signal may propogate without any metallic conductors, in air or in vaccum or "thin air" (think radar or GPS signals)

It is the characteristics of the dielectric (vaccum, air) that sets the speed of propogation.

The speed of light in air at 17C, 50% relative humidity and sea level pressure is about .031% less than it is in vaccum. That would be a reduction of 0.0036 inches to that 11.80285 inch long wire. :-)

For my work I've always just used 300,000,000 m/s, which is accurate enough for any terestrial application.

If a radio signal is sent "over" some metallic conductors, you generally use two or more metal surfaces, such as two parallel wires or the inner and outer conductors of a coaxial cable.

As long as highly conductive metals (e.g. copper, silver, aluminum or gold) are used, the magnetic fields of an electromagnetic wave cannot penetrate a conductor, and the electric fields are confined to a very thin surface layer. The speed of electron propogation in a metallic conductor has little if any effect on the speed of the electromagnetic wave.

Typically the metal conductors are supported and separated by some kind of solid material (the dielectric) (teflon, ceramic, glass), it is the dielectric that sets the speed of propogation.
 
Interesting.

I use my extension tubes on my 14-42mm and the 40-150mm. It never occurred to me to put them on the 75-300. So I tried it in the brush along my driveway. No science involved, just hacking away.
Pleased I inspired someone else to give it a go
 

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