D500 consistently missing focus?

DocShaka · Jun 10, 2021

Hello all,

I finally created an account after years of shooting and figuring out most everything for myself. I consider myself a technically competent photographer but I am stumped with a recent problem I’ve had with my D500. I may not have noticed the focusing issue earlier because most of my photography revolves around long distance shots (D500 on the 200-500) of wildlife and rockets here in Florida. You can imagine I was quite surprised to take the 500 on a shorter lens to a dog park for some epic shots of my dog and find nearly every image out of focus. Below is a small sample of the issue but this is the case for every spray of 20-30 shots.

So far my trouble shooting has included running through every focus mode there is and even attempting to fine tune the AF which was pretty much dead on. Focusing is fine for stationary subjects. I also used my lenses on my D750 in same scenario to make sure that wasn’t the problem and it managed to nail focus as expected, albeit much slower.

It’s like focus is always 6” behind the eyes of moving subjects and it’s killing me. In this instance Samantha isn’t even running at me quickly. D500 is supposed to have a pretty amazing focus system right? Same as D5? What gives?

Does anyone have a suggestion for fixing the issue or should I just send it into Nikon ($350)?

Thanks for any info

Doc

Some other non symptomatic shots

Rosember · Jun 10, 2021

The dog is rather small in the photos you presented here. And I think you might have over interpreted the red AF box in the viewfinder. These boxes are just a hint of the spot you are actually focussing on. So it might well be that while the AF box covers the face of your dog the camera is actually focussing more to the top/bottom/right/left of the red box you are seeing in the view finder.

Solution: get closer and/or use a longer lens. (Your own presented shots show the effect of limiting the aberration by making your subject fill a bigger part of the image.)

There might be another aspect worsening your results. The face of your dog has rather little contrast except for its nose. Nikon's AF algorithms "love" contrast - and can be quite sticky about it. This depends also on your in camera settings and on hitting the right spot when activating AF. The AF will be glued to the background if your initial focus acquisition happens to be on it rather than the face of your dog - and you should check your in camera setting for reacquisition of focus (Menu setting a3). You could try a setting that allows a faster readjustment of AF.

DocShaka · Jun 10, 2021

Thanks for the reply. I was working from the iPad before I finished cup of coffee #1 this morning. The first series does look like it was grabbing the background. I believe this series of shots shows the phenomenon much more clearly. I often end up with her back end in focus, like the focus is trailing the subject. And thank you for the suggestion. I have tried both the "stickiest" and the most aggressive AF reacquisition settings but end up with the same results. What I can't shake is why my 750 just seems to work like Nikons AF always has. If anything the 750 is generally wider and should miss more! I am using FX lenses on the 500 for what it's worth. I've never had trouble like this.

edit: I want to say it's an error on my part but to end up with 2 usable images out of 100 is just crazy, right?

Even the most usable image looks like it missed focus just behind her ears:

Bill Ferris · Jun 10, 2021

Which autofocus mode were you using? AF-C would be a must for a moving subject. I'd be inclined to use D25, Group, or 3D in that order. I'd probably set A3-Focus tracking with lock on to 2.

If you were using one AF mode throughout the session with your dog, I'd suggest doing another shoot and trying a variety of modes (D25, Group, 3D). If the results still show consistent missed focus, the lens may benefit from an auto focus fine tune (AFFT) adjustment. That said, I'd bet on the right combination of an AF mode and A3 setting delivering better results.

Good luck.

Rosember · Jun 10, 2021

Bill Ferris already pointed to the importance of using AF-C - but actually, I think you are aware of the importance of using AF-C.

As Bill suggested I'd give 3d tracking a try - as I got excellent results with it when shooting my own dog.

BTW, this is just one image out of a series of 18 shots of which 17 had perfect focus on the eyes.

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JasonTheBirder · Jun 10, 2021

Bill Ferris said:
Which autofocus mode were you using? AF-C would be a must for a moving subject. I'd be inclined to use D25, Group, or 3D in that order. I'd probably set A3-Focus tracking with lock on to 2.

I would also use group. I find group to be very aggressive in grabbing the closest object under the AF group, which would be perfect for this situation.

Leonard Shepherd · Jun 10, 2021

DocShaka said:
Some other non symptomatic shots

Are you sure

This image has decent sharpness for a challenging to capture flying bird.

--
Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is much more about how equipment is used rather than anything else.

Leonard Shepherd · Jun 10, 2021

DocShaka said:
edit: I want to say it's an error on my part but to end up with 2 usable images out of 100 is just crazy, right?

Even the most usable image looks like it missed focus just behind her ears:

The first of these 2 dog shots seems OK - and the second seems quite good.

Results can be significantly influenced by choice of AF options, AF-C or AF-S etc.

It is uncommon for camera equipment faults to "switch on and off" - - which perhaps comes back to you.

I anticipate if you master the AF options etc to a high standard your keeper rate will significantly improve.

--
Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is much more about how equipment is used rather than anything else.

DocShaka · Jun 10, 2021

Rosember said:
Bill Ferris already pointed to the importance of using AF-C - but actually, I think you are aware of the importance of using AF-C.

As Bill suggested I'd give 3d tracking a try - as I got excellent results with it when shooting my own dog.

BTW, this is just one image out of a series of 18 shots of which 17 had perfect focus on the eyes.

This is what I am expecting, not the opposite that I am seeing!

DocShaka · Jun 10, 2021

Leonard Shepherd said:
Leonard Shepherd said:

edit: I want to say it's an error on my part but to end up with 2 usable images out of 100 is just crazy, right?

Even the most usable image looks like it missed focus just behind her ears:

Click to expand...

The first of these 2 dog shots seems OK - and the second seems quite good.

Results can be significantly influenced by choice of AF options, AF-C or AF-S etc.

It is uncommon for camera equipment faults to "switch on and off" - - which perhaps comes back to you.

I anticipate if you master the AF options etc to a high standard your keeper rate will significantly improve.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I will run through the settings again and try some different modes again but it didn't seem to change anything the last time I tried that. I updated the firmware today which was still running the first version. Maybe that's something.

I have a lot experience tracking birds and other wildlife which have never been an issue but something this simple is? I have always stuck to single point AF-C. This is the first time I've needed to deviate from that method.

I would still call all these images unusable. Even the best one is only potentially ok because I was having to stop down so far to deepen the field.

Maybe I'll run some additional tests on some other pups out there and see if it's really just the white face throwing the camera off...

DocShaka · Jun 10, 2021

OK so updating you all after messing around in the backyard.

I noticed that even stationary objects are not in focus like they should be. My eyes aren't the best but the diopter looks in focus but zooming in on the image was not focused. In fact, seems it was very much missing. I assumed the AF Fine tune did not need adjustment because when I followed a procedure that had me mount a longer lens to a tripod and focus on text in a magazine at whatever angle, the focus seemed dead on. Now out of curiosity I just performed the same AF tune but handheld kinda eyeballing a grill grate for measurement. Well that seemed to do the trick.

I guess my question now is what does that mean for a AF system that has to have AF Fine Tune pegged to one end? Will it have to be changed and adjusted for every lens or does the whole AF system itself need to be retuned? Set it and leave it?

Is there an instance where the viewfinder can be in focus and the image isn't?

Bill Ferris · Jun 10, 2021

DocShaka said:
OK so updating you all after messing around in the backyard.

I noticed that even stationary objects are not in focus like they should be. My eyes aren't the best but the diopter looks in focus but zooming in on the image was not focused. In fact, seems it was very much missing. I assumed the AF Fine tune did not need adjustment because when I followed a procedure that had me mount a longer lens to a tripod and focus on text in a magazine at whatever angle, the focus seemed dead on. Now out of curiosity I just performed the same AF tune but handheld kinda eyeballing a grill grate for measurement. Well that seemed to do the trick.

I guess my question now is what does that mean for a AF system that has to have AF Fine Tune pegged to one end? Will it have to be changed and adjusted for every lens or does the whole AF system itself need to be retuned? Set it and leave it?

AFFT is only applied when activated and only to those lenses for which an AFFT setting has been stored. Not all lenses need an AFFT adjustment. Nor is it something requiring service to repair.

DocShaka said:
Is there an instance where the viewfinder can be in focus and the image isn't?

Yes. If the diopter adjustment is improperly set, you can manually focus a lens until the image looks good in the viewfinder. However, the photograph will be out of focus.

You mentioned getting tack sharp results with st least one lens that doesn't need an AFFT adjustment. If you fine tune the diopter adjustment for a focused image with that lens, the diopter adjustment will be good for all your lenses.

Kazmarov · Jun 10, 2021

Just a query - which 50mm f/1.8 are you using? I have the 50mm f/1.8 G and I find it really is a very slow responding lens for sports events. Did you try a different short lens with AF-C and have the same issue?

DocShaka · Jun 11, 2021

Kazmarov said:
Just a query - which 50mm f/1.8 are you using? I have the 50mm f/1.8 G and I find it really is a very slow responding lens for sports events. Did you try a different short lens with AF-C and have the same issue?

Yep same lens. I swapped between the 50mm 1.8G and a 105 2.8micro and send to have the same problem

DocShaka · Jun 11, 2021

Bill Ferris said:
DocShaka said:

OK so updating you all after messing around in the backyard.

I noticed that even stationary objects are not in focus like they should be. My eyes aren't the best but the diopter looks in focus but zooming in on the image was not focused. In fact, seems it was very much missing. I assumed the AF Fine tune did not need adjustment because when I followed a procedure that had me mount a longer lens to a tripod and focus on text in a magazine at whatever angle, the focus seemed dead on. Now out of curiosity I just performed the same AF tune but handheld kinda eyeballing a grill grate for measurement. Well that seemed to do the trick.

I guess my question now is what does that mean for a AF system that has to have AF Fine Tune pegged to one end? Will it have to be changed and adjusted for every lens or does the whole AF system itself need to be retuned? Set it and leave it?

Click to expand...

AFFT is only applied when activated and only to those lenses for which an AFFT setting has been stored. Not all lenses need an AFFT adjustment. Nor is it something requiring service to repair.

Bill Ferris said:

Is there an instance where the viewfinder can be in focus and the image isn't?

Click to expand...

Yes. If the diopter adjustment is improperly set, you can manually focus a lens until the image looks good in the viewfinder. However, the photograph will be out of focus.

You mentioned getting tack sharp results with st least one lens that doesn't need an AFFT adjustment. If you fine tune the diopter adjustment for a focused image with that lens, the diopter adjustment will be good for all your lenses.

Thanks for this. I’ll have to go through my lenses one by one to check again if it’s off in all lenses or if it varies between them. I see a default settings in AFFT which I’m guessing is to apply a tune to the camera itself. I must have adjusted the diopter at some point to correct which makes sense as I’m not the only one who occasionally uses the camera.

thanks for all the help everyone. Saved me some cash.

JasonTheBirder · Jun 11, 2021

Kazmarov said:
Just a query - which 50mm f/1.8 are you using? I have the 50mm f/1.8 G and I find it really is a very slow responding lens for sports events. Did you try a different short lens with AF-C and have the same issue?

Just an additional datum: I also have the 50mm f/1.8G and it is slow.

Kris in CT · Jun 11, 2021

Others have made great suggestions. My opinion do not rely on AFFT. I have used Reikan Focal for years and it is an invaluable tool for fine tuning.

I used the D500 for years and found it to have absolutely amazing AF. In the dog running towards you I would use Group mode and a longer focal length. You can check my Flickr page for samples if you search D500. I ended up switching to the D850 even though the AF is not quite as good as the D500.

n057 · Jun 11, 2021

Kris in CT said:
Others have made great suggestions. My opinion do not rely on AFFT. I have used Reikan Focal for years and it is an invaluable tool for fine tuning.
I used the D500 for years and found it to have absolutely amazing AF. In the dog running towards you I would use Group mode and a longer focal length. You can check my Flickr page for samples if you search D500. I ended up switching to the D850 even though the AF is not quite as good as the D500.

(Not in your gear list

)

JC
Some cameras, some lenses, some computers

DocShaka · Jun 11, 2021

Kris in CT said:
Others have made great suggestions. My opinion do not rely on AFFT. I have used Reikan Focal for years and it is an invaluable tool for fine tuning.
I used the D500 for years and found it to have absolutely amazing AF. In the dog running towards you I would use Group mode and a longer focal length. You can check my Flickr page for samples if you search D500. I ended up switching to the D850 even though the AF is not quite as good as the D500.

This software looks amazing! Giving it a try tonight. Thank you!

BernhardF · Jun 12, 2021

Hi, reading through the thread I think you’ve got your answers already. Seems to me that you’ve taken these shots of your active dog with lenses not very well suited for the purpose due to slow autofocus and shallow depth of field (especially Micro 105). If however one or both these lenses back focus on stationary targets you really need to fine tune the af for them. The D500 have an inbuilt feature for this which I haven’t tried due to reviews saying the results aren’t always consistent but here are several other methods to use as well.

Having, like you, both the D500 and the D750 I’ve noticed that my D500 struggles more with nailing focus on low contrast objects. In every other respect it’s af is superior to the D750s.

Finally a word on the Osprey Shot. Not knowing the circumstances for the shot or if/how much it may be cropped, I find it a little to soft considering the bird flying past you after it’s catch which I would consider av relatively easy BIF shot. I don’t mean this as any kind of criticism, more a heads up that based on this single photo you might need to fine tune your long distance lens as well.

Best of luck with fixing your af quirks.

D500 consistently missing focus?

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