Film simulations and white balance

BenInUK said:

OmarCCX said:

The guy is asking a JPG specific question, save the RAW talk for another day. Some of us are just burnt out on editing.

I will say, that was a big reason I got the X-S10 over the XT3, as I have found it very beneficial for my custom film sim presets. Especially with Classic negative which looks far too green by default.

However, since your camera doesn't have CNeg, and I haven't really seen much of a benefit from custom wb for recipes on other simulations, I say keep it in auto and don't worry about it. Most of the recipees I've seen drastically mess with the colors so you'd likely have to adjust the wb quite often. Sure, auto won't give you the shift here and there, but you can always add some of that to the jpg after if you're looking for a specific tone.

tldr auto is fine, dont worry about it. most recipees go too far imo.

Click to expand...

Someone gets it! Thanks!

I find it amazing that asking about jpeg settings on a camera widely praised for it's jpeg engine still draws out the "shoot raw only" zealots. These people do more harm than good.

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Before offending people that in good faith tried to help you, perhaps you could clarify something:

1. How can shooting JPEG with default WB settings solve your problem? You wrote you are not happy with default JPEG settings provided by the Fuji film sims.

2. You wrote that your camera does not allow to store your modifications to film sims into custom banks for later use. So, you would need to change them many times. Are you willing to spend a lot of time in the field making such adjustments, which will vary many times in a photo outing?

BenInUK said:

Yes if you want technically the best results then shoot raw, but I don't think it's necessary for absolutely everything and not if it stops you taking a camera to avoid more post processing backlog. Surely the more important thing is just to use the camera and take lots of photos.

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Of course. But using and learning the tools to their utmost resource is also important. As explained already many times, creating import pre-sets yourself, adjusted to your tastes, is no big deal. And saves you time in the field and in processing too!

BenInUK said:

If you enjoy post production then fine, this doesn't apply to you. I actually do enjoy it but in small doses. I can't be doing with spending hours on it. In the current market I think we should be encouraging people to take more photos, not throwing up more barriers to entry.

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If you are spending hours in processing, you are doing it wrong and you have a lot to learn. Just build your own pre-sets, and apply them upon importing to either JPEGS or RAW files. Build and store your personal simulations in your image software, if you can not do it in the camera, because the camera dos not store them.

I think a lot of people can relate to what you’re saying.

For most of us, photography is a hobby - it’s supposed to be pleasurable. If it becomes a chore, source of frustration and even anxiety, then what’s the point?

Thats why in-camera raw conversion on a Fuji has been such a revelation to me. At last I can focus on taking nice pictures, with no post processing required, while still having the option to adjust if I want to.

Far from being a burden and source of frustration, it’s an absolute pleasure to use!

Sven44 said:

bowportes said:

Yes.

Use the in-camera converter to generate different jpeg "flavors" from a shot you really like. You can produce copies of the same shot with 5 or 6 different film sims in-camera. It's the best way to experiment.

Generally, I always shoot with NR-4 and Sharpness-2. With the ProNegative sims I boost color to about +3.

I rarely use Provia.

Click to expand...

Indeed, that's the best way to learn the differences between the film sims and see what you like.

I've done this a number of times: take a shot and then render it in the following sequence: Eterna -> Pro Neg Std -> Classic Chrome -> Provia -> Pro Neg Hi -> Astia -> Velvia, which is (roughly) in order of saturation + contrast.

You start to really appreciate the different 'moods' conveyed.

Click to expand...

I agree, although doing that in-camera is quite a slow process, and the display isn't the best. I like using X RAW Studio for that on the computer with the camera plugged in. You can also save presets to the camera from it and edit in bulk/copy settings.

biza43 said:

OmarCCX said:

The guy is asking a JPG specific question, save the RAW talk for another day. Some of us are just burnt out on editing.

I will say, that was a big reason I got the X-S10 over the XT3, as I have found it very beneficial for my custom film sim presets. Especially with Classic negative which looks far too green by default.

However, since your camera doesn't have CNeg, and I haven't really seen much of a benefit from custom wb for recipes on other simulations, I say keep it in auto and don't worry about it. Most of the recipees I've seen drastically mess with the colors so you'd likely have to adjust the wb quite often. Sure, auto won't give you the shift here and there, but you can always add some of that to the jpg after if you're looking for a specific tone.

tldr auto is fine, dont worry about it. most recipees go too far imo.

Click to expand...

The OP was quite clear:

"I have an X-T3 and would like to experiment with some of the film simulation recipes. I'm not really happy with the default jpeg looks so want to find something that I like.

The problem I find is that so many of the suggested recipes have a specific white balance setting and shift. This poses a couple of problems.

1. The X-T3 cannot save these settings in the C1-C7 slots so you have to manually set them when switching
2. These recipes become very dependent on the situation and need the right light for them to work"

So, what you suggest will not work for him, because he clearly stated that he is not happy with auto/default WB results. It is very simple, the OP can either:

1. Spend time in the field adjusting settings to his taste;

2. Spend time later adjusting the RAW file. With some experience and initial time investment, creating import pre-sets e.g. in LR is a breeze.

Click to expand...

That's not what I said at all. I'm not happy with the default jpeg looks, WB only comes in to it because so many of the recipes you see include a WB shift which cannot be saved easily in the custom banks.

BenInUK said:

biza43 said:

OmarCCX said:

The guy is asking a JPG specific question, save the RAW talk for another day. Some of us are just burnt out on editing.

I will say, that was a big reason I got the X-S10 over the XT3, as I have found it very beneficial for my custom film sim presets. Especially with Classic negative which looks far too green by default.

However, since your camera doesn't have CNeg, and I haven't really seen much of a benefit from custom wb for recipes on other simulations, I say keep it in auto and don't worry about it. Most of the recipees I've seen drastically mess with the colors so you'd likely have to adjust the wb quite often. Sure, auto won't give you the shift here and there, but you can always add some of that to the jpg after if you're looking for a specific tone.

tldr auto is fine, dont worry about it. most recipees go too far imo.

Click to expand...

The OP was quite clear:

"I have an X-T3 and would like to experiment with some of the film simulation recipes. I'm not really happy with the default jpeg looks so want to find something that I like.

The problem I find is that so many of the suggested recipes have a specific white balance setting and shift. This poses a couple of problems.

1. The X-T3 cannot save these settings in the C1-C7 slots so you have to manually set them when switching
2. These recipes become very dependent on the situation and need the right light for them to work"

So, what you suggest will not work for him, because he clearly stated that he is not happy with auto/default WB results. It is very simple, the OP can either:

1. Spend time in the field adjusting settings to his taste;

2. Spend time later adjusting the RAW file. With some experience and initial time investment, creating import pre-sets e.g. in LR is a breeze.

Click to expand...

That's not what I said at all. I'm not happy with the default jpeg looks, WB only comes in to it because so many of the recipes you see include a WB shift which cannot be saved easily in the custom banks.

Click to expand...

Well, it is easy to read the quote from your OP.

BenInUK said:

I have an X-T3 and would like to experiment with some of the film simulation recipes. I'm not really happy with the default jpeg looks so want to find something that I like.

The problem I find is that so many of the suggested recipes have a specific white balance setting and shift. This poses a couple of problems.

1. The X-T3 cannot save these settings in the C1-C7 slots so you have to manually set them when switching
2. These recipes become very dependent on the situation and need the right light for them to work

I just want some good looks from the jpegs that will work in a variety of settings. I would like some variations like B+W, vivid, portrait etc but I don't want something so specific that it only works under just the right light conditions.

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

The X-T3 can save WB shift. I can do it with X-Pro2. If they are saved as WB custom entry, then they can be associated to a C1-C7 preset.

I have a button right now that brings the C1-C7 menu and I can switch through different looks with different WB shift. When I press the button, it reverts back to the "std" preset with just the one click.

As to finding settings you like, I suggest you play with X-RAW Studio from Fujifilm. It lets you play will the JPG engine settings after the fact in a much more comfortable manner than on the camera body directly. You can have preset in the software that you can then directly import in the camera from the software. Very convenient.

biza43 said:

BenInUK said:

biza43 said:

OmarCCX said:

The guy is asking a JPG specific question, save the RAW talk for another day. Some of us are just burnt out on editing.

I will say, that was a big reason I got the X-S10 over the XT3, as I have found it very beneficial for my custom film sim presets. Especially with Classic negative which looks far too green by default.

However, since your camera doesn't have CNeg, and I haven't really seen much of a benefit from custom wb for recipes on other simulations, I say keep it in auto and don't worry about it. Most of the recipees I've seen drastically mess with the colors so you'd likely have to adjust the wb quite often. Sure, auto won't give you the shift here and there, but you can always add some of that to the jpg after if you're looking for a specific tone.

tldr auto is fine, dont worry about it. most recipees go too far imo.

Click to expand...

The OP was quite clear:

"I have an X-T3 and would like to experiment with some of the film simulation recipes. I'm not really happy with the default jpeg looks so want to find something that I like.

The problem I find is that so many of the suggested recipes have a specific white balance setting and shift. This poses a couple of problems.

1. The X-T3 cannot save these settings in the C1-C7 slots so you have to manually set them when switching
2. These recipes become very dependent on the situation and need the right light for them to work"

So, what you suggest will not work for him, because he clearly stated that he is not happy with auto/default WB results. It is very simple, the OP can either:

1. Spend time in the field adjusting settings to his taste;

2. Spend time later adjusting the RAW file. With some experience and initial time investment, creating import pre-sets e.g. in LR is a breeze.

Click to expand...

That's not what I said at all. I'm not happy with the default jpeg looks, WB only comes in to it because so many of the recipes you see include a WB shift which cannot be saved easily in the custom banks.

Click to expand...

Well, it is easy to read the quote from your OP.

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Yes it is, everyone else understood the problem. Only you are insisting on telling me what I actually meant to say. I don't want to waste any more time debating this, others have been able to reply helpfully.

RobertMachin said:

The X-T3 can save WB shift. I can do it with X-Pro2. If they are saved as WB custom entry, then they can be associated to a C1-C7 preset.

Click to expand...

X-T3 saves white balance shift _per white balance entry only_, no matter C1-C7 preset used. If more presets use the same white balance entry (like "auto", or "daylight", etc.), you can`t have a different shift saved for any of them - they will all use the same shift, being the latest one set (manually).

Starting with X-Pro3, white balance shift is also saved _per C1-C7 preset_, now allowing different presets to use the same white balance entry while still having a different shift saved and applied automatically, on preset switch.

RobertMachin said:

I have a button right now that brings the C1-C7 menu and I can switch through different looks with different WB shift. When I press the button, it reverts back to the "std" preset with just the one click.

Click to expand...

With X-T3, this is only possible if your C1-C7 presets use a different white balance setting, each setting remembering its own shift, no matter the selected preset.

If some of your presets would use the same white balance setting (like "auto", for example, possibly being the most common), while each requiring its own (different) white balance shift, then you would need to change the shift manually on each preset switch, as changing the preset would not change the shift.

Cameras since X-Pro3 have this (finally) automated - for a given example, each C1-C7 remembering its own "auto" (or any other) white balance shift, too.

boogisha said:

RobertMachin said:

The X-T3 can save WB shift. I can do it with X-Pro2. If they are saved as WB custom entry, then they can be associated to a C1-C7 preset.

Click to expand...

X-T3 saves white balance shift _per white balance entry only_, no matter C1-C7 preset used. If more presets use the same white balance entry (like "auto", or "daylight", etc.), you can`t have a different shift saved for any of them - they will all use the same shift, being the latest one set (manually).

Starting with X-Pro3, white balance shift is also saved _per C1-C7 preset_, now allowing different presets to use the same white balance entry while still having a different shift saved and applied automatically, on preset switch.

boogisha said:

I have a button right now that brings the C1-C7 menu and I can switch through different looks with different WB shift. When I press the button, it reverts back to the "std" preset with just the one click.

Click to expand...

With X-T3, this is only possible if your C1-C7 presets use a different white balance setting, each setting remembering its own shift, no matter the selected preset.

If some of your presets would use the same white balance setting (like "auto", for example, possibly being the most common), while each requiring its own (different) white balance shift, then you would need to change the shift manually on each preset switch, as changing the preset would not change the shift.

Click to expand...

That's not correct

I have a X-Pro2 here with C2 having WB shift -2,2 C3 with shift 1,1 and C1 with Auto no shift, and I cycle through them without any issues or manual adjustments

(I can however have only 3 different shifts, to be shared by the different banks)

boogisha said:

Cameras since X-Pro3 have this (finally) automated - for a given example, each C1-C7 remembering its own "auto" (or any other) white balance shift, too.

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https://www.instagram.com/jimmy.paillet.foto

There appears to be some confusion about what each camera can do. This article explains and has workarounds.


In summary:

• Cameras prior to the X-Pro3 can't save WB shifts in custom presets
• If you set a shift against a particular mode (like daylight or cloudy) then the camera remembers when you switch back to this mode
• You can take advantage of this as long as each WB mode is only used for one custom preset

I read about this ages ago but it just sounded a bit fiddly. However, I suppose if I generally use auto then it may not hurt to play with one using daylight with a shift. You just have to be aware of the limitations and be careful.

RobertMachin said:

boogisha said:

With X-T3, this is only possible if your C1-C7 presets use a different white balance setting, each setting remembering its own shift, no matter the selected preset.

If some of your presets would use the same white balance setting (like "auto", for example, possibly being the most common), while each requiring its own (different) white balance shift, then you would need to change the shift manually on each preset switch, as changing the preset would not change the shift.

Click to expand...

That's not correct

I have a X-Pro2 here with C2 having WB shift -2,2 C3 with shift 1,1 and C1 with Auto no shift, and I cycle through them without any issues or manual adjustments

(I can however have only 3 different shifts, to be shared by the different banks)

Click to expand...

No, with X-Pro2 you can have as menu different white balance shifts as you have white balance options, being 12 in total:

• AUTO
• CUSTOM 1
• CUSTOM 2
• CUSTOM 3
• COLOR TEMPERATURE
• DAYLIGHT
• SHADE
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-1 (daylight)
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-2 (warm white)
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-3 (cool white)
• INCANDESCENT
• UNDERWATER

Any white balance option listed above can remember a single white balance shift only - if you change C1-C7 custom setting (preset), white balance shift does not change for any of white balance options.

Yet, any of C1-C7 custom settings (presets) can remember the white balance _option_ used.

So if any of C1-C7 custom settings (presets) use the same white balance option but need a different white balance shift, that is what you need to set manually upon each preset change.

Of course, if none of C1-C7 custom settings (presets) use the same white balance option, or they do but they don`t require a different white balance shift, then simply changing through C1-C7 will not require any manual action.

Unfortunately, there is a single "AUTO" option only, presumably being the most adaptive (least scene/light dependent), meaning you can either have only one C1-C7 custom setting (preset) use "AUTO", or have the same white balance shift shared among all C1-C7 custom settings (presets) using "AUTO"... or change white balance shift for "AUTO" manually each time you change C1-C7 custom setting (preset) which requires a different white balance shift (or none).

Now, starting with X-Pro3, each white balance option white balance shift is saved for each C1-C7 custom setting (preset), so you can have 12 x 7 = 84 different white balance shifts!

In practice, important takeaway is that if more C1-C7 custom settings (presets) share the same white balance option (like "AUTO"), each can have a different white balance shift saved, too, changing through C1-C7 custom settings (presets) using the same white balance option automatically changing white balance shift as well, without any additional user action required (as with your X-Pro2 and my X-T3, for example).

boogisha said:

RobertMachin said:

boogisha said:

With X-T3, this is only possible if your C1-C7 presets use a different white balance setting, each setting remembering its own shift, no matter the selected preset.

If some of your presets would use the same white balance setting (like "auto", for example, possibly being the most common), while each requiring its own (different) white balance shift, then you would need to change the shift manually on each preset switch, as changing the preset would not change the shift.

Click to expand...

That's not correct

I have a X-Pro2 here with C2 having WB shift -2,2 C3 with shift 1,1 and C1 with Auto no shift, and I cycle through them without any issues or manual adjustments

(I can however have only 3 different shifts, to be shared by the different banks)

Click to expand...

No, with X-Pro2 you can have as menu different white balance shifts as you have white balance options, being 12 in total:

• AUTO
• CUSTOM 1
• CUSTOM 2
• CUSTOM 3
• COLOR TEMPERATURE
• DAYLIGHT
• SHADE
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-1 (daylight)
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-2 (warm white)
• FLUORESCENT LIGHT-3 (cool white)
• INCANDESCENT
• UNDERWATER

Click to expand...

In custom 1-3, I am able to store a shift (just click ok and do not take picture), so i can store 3 shifts that can be used by C1-C7

RobertMachin said:

In custom 1-3, I am able to store a shift (just click ok and do not take picture), so i can store 3 shifts that can be used by C1-C7

Click to expand...

Yes, as you can do with any of 12 white balance options in total.

But only one of these twelve is "AUTO", I`m afraid - and three "CUSTOM" white balance options are not...

Now, in case you have never set any of these to a custom value (by taking a picture), it`s possible they all behave as "AUTO" by default...? But once the custom value is set, it`s not "AUTO" anymore for sure, and so far I didn`t find a way to reset it back to default - it seems to just keep the last set value forever, or until overwritten with a new custom value.

So, to repeat, as long as you use different white balance options with different white balance shifts for different C1-C7 custom settings (presets) - as you do with three "CUSTOM" white balance options - you don`t have to manually change white balance shift on C1-C7 custom setting (preset) change.

Only one white balance option being (true?) "AUTO", this is a bit (too) restrictive, and it`s finally being changed starting with X-Pro3, where you can now have all your C1-C7 custom settings (presets) use the same "AUTO" white balance option, but all have a different white balance shift, too.

BenInUK said:

KariP said:

I am not saying that you should shoot RAW . I just wonder why PP means some time consuming avoidable effort. There was a season when i tried to Enjoy shooting only jpegs - the results i got were mostly OK except when i needed a serious print.

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If I take the camera out and come back with 100 photos then it maybe takes an hour to go cull the bad shots and edit the good ones. If I put this off then the next time I come back I have two hours worth. Over time this builds up and becomes a burden. It reached a point where I would avoid taking the camera out.

BenInUK said:

nowadays i shoot only raw, but i see no reason to spend much time doing PP. Nowadays i have started to use Photos in my iMac - raw photos look acceptable without any work. IF and WHEN i see something that needs ”work” i use some other software - perhaps 5% of photos are worth doing something. I can check 200 raw images quite fast - and pick 5 - 20 that i perhaps want to edit. Capture one and RAW power have most of the film simulations …

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I don't like leaving photos in raw format only. I prefer to upload to my nas as jpeg so they can be viewed on the TV or shared remotely.

BenInUK said:

My fast edits take just something like 15 sec - sometimes Capture one is so inspiring that i use more time. If There is an image worth it. Deleting bad useless images take more time than PP

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Yes culling is part of it. I stopped doing this in camera because of scare stories about SD card failure but I've never had this happen so now prefer to take my chances and at least delete the obviously bad ones.

BenInUK said:

IMO shooting only jpegs causes more trouble. They are perfect only sometimes…But of course this is my personal experience. Shoot jpegs , but start to accept the facts if you want something much better. Jpegs are o k in many Jobs …

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This isn't my job. I accept that I am trading absolute perfection for some convenience and my time. For me this is a good trade off.

To be perfectly honest, a lot of the times I see people over doing their edits or trying to cover up poor technique in post. If the photo is well composed and exposed correctly then that's 90% of the way there. The post production should be the icing on the cake.

Click to expand...

Well, i do not disagree very much. PP results are often something that just show that original photo was quite basic and l am just seeing something tastelessn and quite artificial. Decades ago i shot a lot with color slide films, quite unforgiving and i had to concentrate on composition and everything. Shooting JPEG is something like that

From my darkroom history i have need to make a perfect print - IMO a photograph really exists if it can be printed. Good big prints are very difficult to make from JPEGs. Of course it is As you said - fast sharing of images is more sensible from JPEGs. Imo with fujifilm cameras it is quite easy. Just practice a while. Results will be ok

boogisha said:

RobertMachin said:

In custom 1-3, I am able to store a shift (just click ok and do not take picture), so i can store 3 shifts that can be used by C1-C7

Click to expand...

Yes, as you can do with any of 12 white balance options in total.

But only one of these twelve is "AUTO", I`m afraid - and three "CUSTOM" white balance options are not...

Now, in case you have never set any of these to a custom value (by taking a picture), it`s possible they all behave as "AUTO" by default...? But once the custom value is set, it`s not "AUTO" anymore for sure, and so far I didn`t find a way to reset it back to default - it seems to just keep the last set value forever, or until overwritten with a new custom value.

So, to repeat, as long as you use different white balance options with different white balance shifts for different C1-C7 custom settings (presets) - as you do with three "CUSTOM" white balance options - you don`t have to manually change white balance shift on C1-C7 custom setting (preset) change.

Only one white balance option being (true?) "AUTO", this is a bit (too) restrictive, and it`s finally being changed starting with X-Pro3, where you can now have all your C1-C7 custom settings (presets) use the same "AUTO" white balance option, but all have a different white balance shift, too.

Click to expand...

From my experience, my custom 1-3 behave as Auto + shift

I've never used them for anything else that's maybe why...

Having said that, this is much easier on my X-T4 as you alluded to. Fuji improved this process nicely in recent bodies...

OP, sorry this thread turned into a sh*tstorm. This issue really frustrates me, too.

The truth is, you just can't store an Auto WB shift properly without the new cameras.

I hoped it would come to the X-T3 with Kaizen, but they focused on AF instead.

RobertMachin said:

boogisha said:

RobertMachin said:

In custom 1-3, I am able to store a shift (just click ok and do not take picture), so i can store 3 shifts that can be used by C1-C7

Click to expand...

Yes, as you can do with any of 12 white balance options in total.

But only one of these twelve is "AUTO", I`m afraid - and three "CUSTOM" white balance options are not...

Now, in case you have never set any of these to a custom value (by taking a picture), it`s possible they all behave as "AUTO" by default...? But once the custom value is set, it`s not "AUTO" anymore for sure, and so far I didn`t find a way to reset it back to default - it seems to just keep the last set value forever, or until overwritten with a new custom value.

So, to repeat, as long as you use different white balance options with different white balance shifts for different C1-C7 custom settings (presets) - as you do with three "CUSTOM" white balance options - you don`t have to manually change white balance shift on C1-C7 custom setting (preset) change.

Only one white balance option being (true?) "AUTO", this is a bit (too) restrictive, and it`s finally being changed starting with X-Pro3, where you can now have all your C1-C7 custom settings (presets) use the same "AUTO" white balance option, but all have a different white balance shift, too.

Click to expand...

From my experience, my custom 1-3 behave as Auto + shift

I've never used them for anything else that's maybe why...

Having said that, this is much easier on my X-T4 as you alluded to. Fuji improved this process nicely in recent bodies...

Click to expand...

I have experienced the same thing as boogisha.... but this makes me think...

Would a factory reset of the camera "accidentally create" the Auto + WB Shifted white balance I've been looking for?

In my experience on the X-T2, the 1-3 Custom WB gets set (you should use a gray card) and, once set, there's no way to turn it back to Auto.

RobertMachin said:

From my experience, my custom 1-3 behave as Auto + shift

I've never used them for anything else that's maybe why...

Click to expand...

Yeah, that might be it, as it would make sense - making it even more unbelievable there is no "reset" (to default) option to be found anywhere, once you change it having no easy way to go back...

That said, many settings would certainly use "reset" option as well, once you flip it a few times to test it out having no way anymore to know which one was default (probably being better "no idea" option than one you set randomly), and just hoping at least manual might state the default one.

RobertMachin said:

Having said that, this is much easier on my X-T4 as you alluded to. Fuji improved this process nicely in recent bodies...

Click to expand...

Agreed, I`m glad Fuji fixed this. They do have some weird firmware ways, but they do seem to find the right one eventually, user patience allowing.

fujiian said:

Would a factory reset of the camera "accidentally create" the Auto + WB Shifted white balance I've been looking for?

Click to expand...

That`s what I would expect, or at least hope for as well.

Just that I don`t want to be bothered by reconfiguring everything from scratch again, where I would still want to have at least one really "custom" white balance option, eventually leaving me with three "auto" white balance ones ("AUTO" + 2 default/unchanged "CUSTOM" ones), with some self-discipline.

It`s worth keeping in mind, though (and possibly trying out as well, for those willing to setup the camera from scratch again, might be myself doing it one day, too).

fujiian said:

In my experience on the X-T2, the 1-3 Custom WB gets set (you should use a gray card) and, once set, there's no way to turn it back to Auto.

Click to expand...

Yeah, that seems to be the case with X-T3, too - I have eventually changed all three of them, and no way back now (other than possibly doing a full reset, as discussed above).

boogisha said:

fujiian said:

Would a factory reset of the camera "accidentally create" the Auto + WB Shifted white balance I've been looking for?

Click to expand...

That`s what I would expect, or at least hope for as well.

Just that I don`t want to be bothered by reconfiguring everything from scratch again, where I would still want to have at least one really "custom" white balance option, eventually leaving me with three "auto" white balance ones ("AUTO" + 2 default/unchanged "CUSTOM" ones), with some self-discipline.

It`s worth keeping in mind, though (and possibly trying out as well, for those willing to setup the camera from scratch again, might be myself doing it one day, too).

boogisha said:

In my experience on the X-T2, the 1-3 Custom WB gets set (you should use a gray card) and, once set, there's no way to turn it back to Auto.

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Yeah, that seems to be the case with X-T3, too - I have eventually changed all three of them, and no way back now (other than possibly doing a full reset, as discussed above).

Click to expand...

I actually just tested it on a recently factory reset X-T2.

Unfortunately, no luck.

If you’ve never set a new WB, the camera picks a neutral value as standard, and it looks the same across all 3 profiles before being set via shutter. It’s distinctly different from Auto.