Olympus OM-D E-M1 - what lenses would you recommend?

LauraP · Jan 27, 2021

Hi All,

I'm changing from a Canon to Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III.

I am looking to start off buying lenses (I am thinking 3) with a budget of approx $4k AUD (excl body)

What 3 lenses would you recommend I purchase please?

Photography predominantly: Landscapes and Travel - sometimes animals / birds

I am leaning towards

Olympus 7-14mm F2.8
Olympus 12-100 f4.0
Olympus 75-300 f4.8 - 6.7

thanks for your advice.

Gary from Seattle · Jan 29, 2021

LauraP said:
Gary from Seattle said:

gary0319 said:

I'll leave the normal and long zooms for others to discuss.

On the wide end, I would consider the Olympus 8mm FE Pro. This is a tiny Pro grade f1.8 Fisheye that when mounted on your E-M1 III has the ability to double as a rectilinear lens of 5.5mm, 7mm, and 9 mm. Works wonders in museums, art galleries and cathedrals.

Click to expand...

I agree with Gary. My strategy as a mountain hiker who frequently visits super spectacular scenery is to have high IQ but also portability. The 8mm FE can be shot as a FE, as a FE that gives a rectilinear appearance to images in the right settings, or as a rectilinear lens at the time of imaging through in camera de-fishing or post processing. It doesn't take a filter and you certainly would not use a polarizer at that AOV. The angle of view of the 8mm FE is 145 degrees, which is way wider than 7 or 8mm rectilinear. It is the best m4/3 lens for Milky Way or Aurora landscape images owing to the fast aperture and the extreme angle of view.

I actually don't go that wide all that often, as I have the 12-40 and find I mostly prefer 12-19-21mm for most mountain images. But I also shoot to 40mm. I like the MF-AF snap ring as i shoot many landscapes in MF. The new 12-45 is smaller than the 12-40, but lacks the snap ring.

To further the portability theme, I often carry just the 12-40 - as it is often all I need. Other times I also carry the very sharp and still compact Panasonic 35-100 F2.8. Thus, I often don't need the bulk of the 12-100; which is certainly another great Olympus lens.

I also have the 75-300 - which is about the same in IQ as the 100-300 (which I previously owned). But both of these lenses are really just about wildlife. The 75-300 is still sharp at 300, though not in the same league as the above lenses, or the 300F4 or 40-150 F2.8. With the 75-300, the issue is not so much lack of sharpness as it is that you need to use a reasonably high SS and be very still in shoot it. It requires very good technique. It is not quick enough in my view for small birds. But it is inexpensive and reasonably portable.

LauraP said:

8mm in fisheye mode

8mm in 5.5 rectilinear mode

8mm in rectilinear mode

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I must admit I've never used fisheye before but OMG.

Ok I am sold. And truth be known I love my landscape lens but probably use it most at the 16mm (8mm on M43) so it is probably a good idea.

I think this new camera is going to change my life - and require a lot of study.

I am really most likely to carry the 8mm when I camp on a high mountain ridge. I use it less and carry it less on day trips. Without defishing - for full 145 degrees AOV on a lake or the seashore you have to be very careful to center the lens at the waterline - same in mountains. But you can see this through the EVF as you shoot.

Also, if you mess up you can defish in camera. Folks say Hugin works even better for defishing. I won't shoot mine if there are trees at the edge of the frame as they curve and tilt in - but you can defish.

It is a great lens to use to exaggerate a scene with an already extreme angle of view. You can make a shot look like you are at the top of the world - or not.

Another thing to emphasize is spectacular clouds; or moving very close to wildflowers with a great and sweeping sky. I find I can get DOF at F8 with the lens 12" from a very near flower.

It is potentially more artistic that other lenses - but takes getting used to.

LauraP said:
Thanks

shinndigg · Jan 30, 2021

...from flaring on Olympus bodies. More specifically, the Olympus bodies do not compensate for the flaring. Same may hold true with some Olympus lenses on Panasonic bodies. The may not compensate for some lens "issues", like barrel distortion, pincushioning and the like.

--
shinndigg
www.pbase.com/shinndigg

George1958 · Jan 30, 2021

In fairness most PP software have lens specific profiles to fix the raw images for distortion and aberrations. The only issue is if you want to use OOC jpg , which is on occasions very useful. In the event certain lenses will exhibit more issues. For example the Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4 was very prone to purple fringing on Olympus bodies, but it was easily sorted in LR.

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

I’m very keen on this lens. You have an amazing eye for detail and photos.

I think I’m going to start with 8-18mm on the panny and add this tO my birthday wish list

it will definitely be fun and you’ve opened my eyes to a whole different aspect of photography I’ve not considered.

thank you.

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

brentbrent said:
brentbrent said:

LauraP said:

Thanks. I think I’m going to pass on the oly 7-14. Will either go panny 8-18mm or oly 8’m f1.8

Click to expand...

Jeff Wahaus wrote:

Don't let the Panasonic people talk you out of the Oly 7-14mm . . .

Click to expand...

Silly, unnecessary, condescending, and inaccurate. Four people have suggested that the OP consider the 8-18. One "Panasonic person" (me), two who shoot only or mostly Oly, and one who has both a G9 and an E-M1 II.

There are pros and cons to each of the zooms, as well as the Oly 8mm FE, which the OP is also now considering. I very much doubt that the OP was "talked out of" the Oly 7-14.

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

brentbrent said:
LauraP said:

a few people have recommended 12-40 and 12-45 but I’m wondering if that is really going. To have the zoom range that I want for a general walking around lens.

Click to expand...

One other option that you could consider is the PL 12-60 f/2.8-4, if that range would suit your needs. Smaller and lighter than the 12-100, f/2.8 at the wide end (aperture drops fairly quickly as you zoom in), weather resistant, great IQ. Adam T here recently chose this over the 12-100 for these reasons.

I did consider the PL 12-60 but I liked the more solid lens I think I will end up with 12-40 f2.8 and 49-100f2.8

I really prefer a faster lens - especially as sometimes I do shoot low light.

brentbrent said:
Personally, the 12-100 isn't too heavy for me, and I see a lens like this as more of a daylight, walk-around lens, so constant f/4 is fine. Particularly with the E-M1 III the stabilization should be excellent, so the only issue is low light with moving subjects, and there a fast prime would be better anyway.

Finally the PL 50-200 f/28-4 is also excellent, and it works with the Panasonic 1.4x and 2x teleconverters, but those are pricey.

--
Brent

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

Jeff Wahaus said:
brentbrent said:

Jeff Wahaus said:

LauraP said:

Thanks. I think I’m going to pass on the oly 7-14. Will either go panny 8-18mm or oly 8’m f1.8

Click to expand...

Jeff Wahaus wrote:

Don't let the Panasonic people talk you out of the Oly 7-14mm . . .

Click to expand...

Silly, unnecessary, condescending, and inaccurate. Four people have suggested that the OP consider the 8-18. One "Panasonic person" (me), two who shoot only or mostly Oly, and one who has both a G9 and an E-M1 II.

Click to expand...

Overly sensitive are we? My post was none of those things.

Jeff Wahaus said:

I very much doubt that the OP was "talked out of" the Oly 7-14.

Click to expand...

That contradicts her statement above.

Correct, I have moved away from the oly 7-14mm I posted in the forum as I want people’s opinions and experience so I can check it out and make choices that suit me

I wouldn’t say anyone ‘talked me out of it’ but provided me options and thoughts I had not considered and are relevant to me

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

Thanks Searun

(I did chuckle at the clean room)

a friend recommended it to me but I’m thinking 100-400mm would be far more suitable.

LauraP · Jan 30, 2021

Thanks Shinndigg

i had read another the glaring situation. You completely nailed my concerns about a Panasonic on the Olympus. I think the 100-40 Panasonic has focus issues in some circumstances too.

thank you. You’ve confirmed my concerns.

raycollector · Jan 30, 2021

LauraP said:
brentbrent said:

LauraP said:

a few people have recommended 12-40 and 12-45 but I’m wondering if that is really going. To have the zoom range that I want for a general walking around lens.

Click to expand...

One other option that you could consider is the PL 12-60 f/2.8-4, if that range would suit your needs. Smaller and lighter than the 12-100, f/2.8 at the wide end (aperture drops fairly quickly as you zoom in), weather resistant, great IQ. Adam T here recently chose this over the 12-100 for these reasons.

Click to expand...

I did consider the PL 12-60 but I liked the more solid lens I think I will end up with 12-40 f2.8 and 49-100f2.8

did you mean the 40-150 f2.8?

If you intend to shoot low shutter speeds in low light with that lens at 150mm I would suggest trying it out first as IBIS efficacy at 150mm will vary depending on your technique.

LauraP said:
I really prefer a faster lens - especially as sometimes I do shoot low light.

LauraP said:

Personally, the 12-100 isn't too heavy for me, and I see a lens like this as more of a daylight, walk-around lens, so constant f/4 is fine. Particularly with the E-M1 III the stabilization should be excellent, so the only issue is low light with moving subjects, and there a fast prime would be better anyway.

Finally the PL 50-200 f/28-4 is also excellent, and it works with the Panasonic 1.4x and 2x teleconverters, but those are pricey.

--
Brent

Click to expand...

raycollector · Jan 30, 2021

LauraP said:
brentbrent said:

LauraP said:

a few people have recommended 12-40 and 12-45 but I’m wondering if that is really going. To have the zoom range that I want for a general walking around lens.

Click to expand...

One other option that you could consider is the PL 12-60 f/2.8-4, if that range would suit your needs. Smaller and lighter than the 12-100, f/2.8 at the wide end (aperture drops fairly quickly as you zoom in), weather resistant, great IQ. Adam T here recently chose this over the 12-100 for these reasons.

Click to expand...

I did consider the PL 12-60 but I liked the more solid lens I think I will end up with 12-40 f2.8 and 49-100f2.8

I really prefer a faster lens - especially as sometimes I do shoot low light.

Hi Laura, which genres do you usually photograph in low light? That will matter for the lens choices. And maybe some samples of those, at the focal lengths that you like to use in low light. Just something to understand your style and creative preferences.

LauraP said:
LauraP said:

Personally, the 12-100 isn't too heavy for me, and I see a lens like this as more of a daylight, walk-around lens, so constant f/4 is fine. Particularly with the E-M1 III the stabilization should be excellent, so the only issue is low light with moving subjects, and there a fast prime would be better anyway.

Finally the PL 50-200 f/28-4 is also excellent, and it works with the Panasonic 1.4x and 2x teleconverters, but those are pricey.

--
Brent

Click to expand...

raycollector · Jan 30, 2021

Atho said:
Well I must’ve gotten a bad one (60mm macro) because it fluffed more shots than not and up against the superlative 30mm it lost on so many levels not least because of the complicated controls. I can’t get my head around how the company that brought us the 9mm bcl gave this also, figure that out. It’s the only lens I’ve ever got shot of.

The 60mm is a lens that finds uses for itself once someone gets it

but i feel it needs to be paired with a flash like say the Godox 350O and then it’s an unexplored world waiting to be discovered..

raycollector · Jan 30, 2021

Atho said:
Hi Laura

My ultra wide, ultra light lens, don’t laugh, is the Olympus 9mm f8 body cap lens. It is a ridiculous piece of kit.

ephotozine gives it a 4/5 rating (the same as the 1245 f4). 30 grammes. In the uk it costs £85. I carry mine everywhere.

As far as astrophotography is concerned I can’t recommend the 1245 enough as it is the world’s widest macro and as you know astro & macro are both flat field specialisms.

Atho said:
No surprise then that it was released at the same time as the EM1 III (with starry skies AF) or that it is a camera that I am looking at intently.

Doesn’t the 12-40 have slightly better macro capabilities than the 12-45? The specs say it has 0.3 (0.6 FF) magnification at MFD of 20 cm (12-45 has MFD of 23 cm at the 45 end)

But whether those small differences justify more weight of the 12-40, that’s a debatable question

raycollector · Jan 30, 2021

bluevellet said:
LauraP said:

Hi All,

I'm changing from a Canon to Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III.

I am looking to start off buying lenses (I am thinking 3) with a budget of approx $4k AUD (excl body)

What 3 lenses would you recommend I purchase please?

Photography predominantly: Landscapes and Travel - sometimes animals / birds

I am leaning towards

Olympus 7-14mm F2.8

Olympus 12-100 f4.0

Olympus 75-300 f4.8 - 6.7

thanks for your advice.

Click to expand...

You seem to have a preference for zooms, right?

And most if not all of your picture taking takes place outdoors, right again?

In that case, the 12-100 F4 is probably your safest choice. A do-everything lens without no (visible) compromise with IQ.

The rest of your lens choices are more debatable. Yes I would consider other ultra angle options. Not because your choice is bad, but maybe you want an easy way to put filters on (Leica 8-18, Oly 9-18), maybe you want more useful range (Leica 8-18, Oly 9-18), maybe you just want small size (lumix 7-14 f4). All things to consider.

I find your interest in the Olympus 75-300 more problematic though. I own it, it is serviceable, but by far the weakest lens in your selection (and f6.7 is slow). With lenses that reaches 300mm, within a budget, there's only one other option: the Panasonic 100-300. You can save even more money if you compromise with 300mm and gain some better IQ in the process (the Oly 40-150 is one of the best bangs for the buck on the system). If you want high quality 300mm or just want to g beyond 300mm, you have to pay big bucks on the system.

The Oly 100-400 gives really good IQ without the big bucks investment

bluevellet · Jan 30, 2021

Atho said:
Well I must’ve gotten a bad one (60mm macro) because it fluffed more shots than not and up against the superlative 30mm it lost on so many levels not least because of the complicated controls. I can’t get my head around how the company that brought us the 9mm bcl gave this also, figure that out. It’s the only lens I’ve ever got shot of.

The 60mm is the only m43 lens I hate. IQ was fine, but man that horrible AF. Practically unusable.

I've also switched to the 30mm macro. Night and day difference.

jwilliams · Jan 30, 2021

LauraP said:
Hi All,

I'm changing from a Canon to Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III.

I am looking to start off buying lenses (I am thinking 3) with a budget of approx $4k AUD (excl body)

What 3 lenses would you recommend I purchase please?

Photography predominantly: Landscapes and Travel - sometimes animals / birds

I am leaning towards

Olympus 7-14mm F2.8

Olympus 12-100 f4.0

Olympus 75-300 f4.8 - 6.7

thanks for your advice.

For an UWA I'd go with the PL 8-18. Lovely lens, smaller and takes filters.

For a tele unless you really need the longer FLs (most report the 75-300 to be poor past about 200mm anyway) Id' go with the 40-150 2.8 and add a TC if needed. Great lens. I've never had the 75-300, but found most consumer m43 tele zooms lacking and the 75-300 is a very slow lens which will limit its usefulness. Of course there are the PL 50-200 and 100-400 also, but I've never tried them.

12-100 should be nice as long as you're OK with its size. It is always nice to have at least one small/moderate sized lens and all yours at at least somewhat big and heavy.

Lastly I have to wonder why the switch? Canon has some of the best cameras and lenses available. Even moderate cost FF gear will perform as good as the high end m43 gear. If you have EF or EFS lenses they perform fantastically on any R camera with a cheap adapter. Why go to a system (m43) that has such an uncertain future?

I shoot both but I would never get rid of my Canon gear to go to exclusively m43. Both have some good attributes, but with the type of m43 gear you are looking at a FF system makes more sense really.

--
Jonathan

bluevellet · Jan 30, 2021

raycollector said:
Atho said:

Hi Laura

My ultra wide, ultra light lens, don’t laugh, is the Olympus 9mm f8 body cap lens. It is a ridiculous piece of kit.

ephotozine gives it a 4/5 rating (the same as the 1245 f4). 30 grammes. In the uk it costs £85. I carry mine everywhere.

As far as astrophotography is concerned I can’t recommend the 1245 enough as it is the world’s widest macro and as you know astro & macro are both flat field specialisms.

No surprise then that it was released at the same time as the EM1 III (with starry skies AF) or that it is a camera that I am looking at intently.

Click to expand...

Doesn’t the 12-40 have slightly better macro capabilities than the 12-45? The specs say it has 0.3 (0.6 FF) magnification at MFD of 20 cm (12-45 has MFD of 23 cm at the 45 end)

But whether those small differences justify more weight of the 12-40, that’s a debatable question

No, it is said the 12-100 and the 12-45 have even better macro capabilities than the already excellent 12-40.

While I personally found the 12-45 to be a disappointment, the macro upgrade makes it a little tempting.

shinndigg · Jan 30, 2021

George1958 said:
In fairness most PP software have lens specific profiles to fix the raw images for distortion and aberrations. The only issue is if you want to use OOC jpg , which is on occasions very useful. In the event certain lenses will exhibit more issues. For example the Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4 was very prone to purple fringing on Olympus bodies, but it was easily sorted in LR.

There is a measure of validity to your point. And if one chooses to simply use sooc images? Or primarily uses the likes of snapseed? I Personally cannot justify the eternal cost of lightroom and photoshop.

shinndigg · Jan 30, 2021

Yje only reason I bring it up is, after using a friend's Panasonic 7-14 on my Olympus camera, flaring and purple fringing was a huge issue. Otherwise it is a great lens.

2ndact scene1 · Jan 30, 2021

shinndigg said:
George1958 said:

In fairness most PP software have lens specific profiles to fix the raw images for distortion and aberrations. The only issue is if you want to use OOC jpg , which is on occasions very useful. In the event certain lenses will exhibit more issues. For example the Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4 was very prone to purple fringing on Olympus bodies, but it was easily sorted in LR.

Click to expand...

There is a measure of validity to your point. And if one chooses to simply use sooc images? Or primarily uses the likes of snapseed? I Personally cannot justify the eternal cost of lightroom and photoshop.

Olympus OM-D E-M1 - what lenses would you recommend?

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