Sony A7iii focus issues (again): user error or camera fault?

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Hi guys,

Having read all the threads on A7iii autofocus issues (especially the epic one from 2018 ), I’m still here to ask for advice.

I own A7iii for about a year shooting mainly with the 55mm 1.8 Zeiss lens, mostly portraits and family pictures with a toddler. From the beginning I was so disappointed with the results - too many images came out blurry or misfocused - that I even put the camera away for a while. Until recently, when I decided to do a thorough testing.

I typically take portraits with AF-C, enforcing Eye AF by a dedicated back button (AF-ON). I assume that the back button Eye AF fully overrides the shutter AF (found also several confirmations of that here on dpreview). When the subject moves, I keep the Eye AF button pressed and the camera shows that it’s tracking the eye all the time. But more than 50% of portraits come out front focused:


Here the camera showed it locked focus on the eye, but it's the hair that is in focus


This was a series of 3 identical pictures, where only the last one was focused properly


This one is focused on the eye

This was especially frustrating since this very camera was sometimes able to focus on the eyes perfectly:


So this I consider a perfect focus and this is what I compare to

All the examples above didn’t involve almost any movement. With moving people, the results were much worse.

Then I asked my husband for patience, and did extensive testing of the Eye AF and other focus modes and areas, in static and slow motion, at various apertures. The general conclusion is that something is subtly wrong with the AF, probably it tends to front focus, maybe in 50-70% of the cases. Larger DOF helps of course, but it's a shame not to be able to use the shallow one... Another conclusion is that the tracking of even a slowly moving subject is not reliable – but here I’m also not sure if that’s normal for this camera and I’m just expecting too much.

Examples:

AF-S, f/1.8, Eye AF


If I press the zoom button in playback mode, the camera shows it has focused on the right eye (right for the observer). Expected DOF for the distance is 6 cm. For me it doesn’t look like the right eye is pin sharp here… Or would you consider this result acceptable?

AF-C f1.8, Eye AF


Camera thinks it has focused on the left eye (for the observer). For me this looks front focused. What whould you say?

Here's an example of series with the subject slowly walking towards the camera from approx. 2.5 meter distance. AF-C, forced Eye AF, drive mode continuous low, 1/400 (should have excluded motion blur, right?)

This is the better one of the two equivalent series (in the other one, only the 2 first images were sharp). The camera always showed that the focus was locked on the eye.


7460 ok


7461 a bit blurry??


7462 ok


7463 ok


7464 blurry?


7465 ok


7466 front focus?


7467 not in focus


7468 ok, eyes are in focus

The more I look, the more I’m not sure – am I asking too much and maybe that’s a quite OK result of the tracking for A7III?

And the last question – do you think it makes sense to send the camera with this report to the service center, as it’s still on warranty?

I would be extremely grateful for your opinion and advice!

Olga
 

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Have you tried to take similar pictures with a different lens? That would suggest it is a lens rather than body problem if the results are better.

Also, in terms of settings, what is your camera firmware?

On my A7iii, FW Ver.3.10., with single subject shots, the camera will lock-on to eye focus without having to press any extra buttons for eye-af.

Not the same subject, but a static eye-af shot, here is my cat, A7iii/55mm/1/250 f2.8 iso 2000 converted and cropped to JPEG from RAW. To me it is (acceptably) sharp.

If your firmware is 3.10, and you are locking on to the eye in AF, then perhaps it is a sign that your lens is out of alignment.



433e5ac8924849b7b3dff1423957707a.jpg
 
Have a look at your AF settings - there's something for locking/tracking and can be set to 'responsive' where it does not keep to the plane of focus for AF-C.

Perhaps looking into 'portrait AF settings' and 'action AF settings' might help?
 
Have you tried to take similar pictures with a different lens? That would suggest it is a lens rather than body problem if the results are better.
Yes, I did the same tests with the kit 28-70 mm lens. But since f/3.5-4.5 are its maximum apertures, my test cases were unconclusive (the DOF was so forgiving that all lenses showed acceptable sharpness on static objects). However, the tracking tests failed as well - even an f/4.5, every second shot in a series was blurred.
Also, in terms of settings, what is your camera firmware?
The latest 3.10.
On my A7iii, FW Ver.3.10., with single subject shots, the camera will lock-on to eye focus without having to press any extra buttons for eye-af.
In AF-C, it happens in most cases for me as well. I'm just using the button to additionally force Eye AF, to be 100% sure.
Not the same subject, but a static eye-af shot, here is my cat, A7iii/55mm/1/250 f2.8 iso 2000 converted and cropped to JPEG from RAW. To me it is (acceptably) sharp.
To me it looks perfectly sharp!!
If your firmware is 3.10, and you are locking on to the eye in AF, then perhaps it is a sign that your lens is out of alignment.
What confuses me the most is that the front focus does not happen in 100% of the cases. 50-70% maybe...
 
Have a look at your AF settings - there's something for locking/tracking and can be set to 'responsive' where it does not keep to the plane of focus for AF-C.
Do you mean "AF Track Sensitiviy"? I have it set to 3 (Standard) and haven't really played around with it. Thanks for the hint!
Perhaps looking into 'portrait AF settings' and 'action AF settings' might help?
Not quite sure what you mean here - preset settings embedded in the camera (SCN)? Or general recommendations?
 
Hi guys,

Having read all the threads on A7iii autofocus issues (especially the epic one from 2018 )
he was doing a number of things wrong, and he didn't want to listen to the advice that people were giving him.
I own A7iii for about a year shooting mainly with the 55mm 1.8 Zeiss lens, mostly portraits and family pictures with a toddler. From the beginning I was so disappointed with the results - too many images came out blurry or misfocused - that I even put the camera away for a while. Until recently, when I decided to do a thorough testing.

I typically take portraits with AF-C, enforcing Eye AF by a dedicated back button (AF-ON). I assume that the back button Eye AF fully overrides the shutter AF (found also several confirmations of that here on dpreview).
"Once you’ve set up Back-Button AF, leave the first three settings alone. You only need to change one setting to switch Back-Button AF off and on:

Choose Menu > Custom Settings > AF w/shutter > On/On."

Setting Back Button AF on Sony a7 Series Cameras (briansmith.com)
Another conclusion is that the tracking of even a slowly moving subject is not reliable – but here I’m also not sure if that’s normal for this camera and I’m just expecting too much.

Examples:

AF-S, f/1.8, Eye AF
don't try tracking with af-s, these are af-c cameras.

try it again with bbaf setup correctly, using:

1) wide open aperture

2) in front-lit bright sunlight, so that you can run a much faster shutter speed than what you have been testing with, in order to eliminate variables
 
Have a look at your AF settings - there's something for locking/tracking and can be set to 'responsive' where it does not keep to the plane of focus for AF-C.
Do you mean "AF Track Sensitiviy"? I have it set to 3 (Standard) and haven't really played around with it. Thanks for the hint!
Perhaps looking into 'portrait AF settings' and 'action AF settings' might help?
Not quite sure what you mean here - preset settings embedded in the camera (SCN)? Or general recommendations?
1. That's the one, apologies for using incorrect terminology!

2. General recommendations. You'll be able to find YouTube vids or blog posts regarding action photography with the A7iii or similar. (e.g. https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/guide/sony-a7-a9-settings-for-sports/)

These might help if your subject is either unpredictable or reasonably fast moving. :)
 
This sounds exactly as what I observed with a7r3, the autofocus was a complete mess. I just don't trust it. Much worst than my a6500. Luckily I was able to return it.
I remember reading a thread here when someone had the same issue and after trying everything, decided to send the camera for replacement. He then reported that the new one was working properly. So not a user error (like many here will try to convince you).
 
Have you tried to take similar pictures with a different lens? That would suggest it is a lens rather than body problem if the results are better.
Yes, I did the same tests with the kit 28-70 mm lens. But since f/3.5-4.5 are its maximum apertures, my test cases were unconclusive (the DOF was so forgiving that all lenses showed acceptable sharpness on static objects). However, the tracking tests failed as well - even an f/4.5, every second shot in a series was blurred.
Also, in terms of settings, what is your camera firmware?
The latest 3.10.
On my A7iii, FW Ver.3.10., with single subject shots, the camera will lock-on to eye focus without having to press any extra buttons for eye-af.
In AF-C, it happens in most cases for me as well. I'm just using the button to additionally force Eye AF, to be 100% sure.
Not the same subject, but a static eye-af shot, here is my cat, A7iii/55mm/1/250 f2.8 iso 2000 converted and cropped to JPEG from RAW. To me it is (acceptably) sharp.
To me it looks perfectly sharp!!
If your firmware is 3.10, and you are locking on to the eye in AF, then perhaps it is a sign that your lens is out of alignment.
What confuses me the most is that the front focus does not happen in 100% of the cases. 50-70% maybe...
Another thought....in your menu (Camera1/5/14) what is your Priority Set in AF-C?

If I recall, by default it is set to Balanced Emphasis but for me, setting AF is better as the camera shouldn't release until focus is achieved accurately when pressing the shutter button.
 
Have you tried to take similar pictures with a different lens? That would suggest it is a lens rather than body problem if the results are better.
Yes, I did the same tests with the kit 28-70 mm lens. But since f/3.5-4.5 are its maximum apertures, my test cases were unconclusive (the DOF was so forgiving that all lenses showed acceptable sharpness on static objects). However, the tracking tests failed as well - even an f/4.5, every second shot in a series was blurred.
Also, in terms of settings, what is your camera firmware?
The latest 3.10.
On my A7iii, FW Ver.3.10., with single subject shots, the camera will lock-on to eye focus without having to press any extra buttons for eye-af.
In AF-C, it happens in most cases for me as well. I'm just using the button to additionally force Eye AF, to be 100% sure.
Not the same subject, but a static eye-af shot, here is my cat, A7iii/55mm/1/250 f2.8 iso 2000 converted and cropped to JPEG from RAW. To me it is (acceptably) sharp.
To me it looks perfectly sharp!!
If your firmware is 3.10, and you are locking on to the eye in AF, then perhaps it is a sign that your lens is out of alignment.
What confuses me the most is that the front focus does not happen in 100% of the cases. 50-70% maybe...
Another thought....in your menu (Camera1/5/14) what is your Priority Set in AF-C?

If I recall, by default it is set to Balanced Emphasis but for me, setting AF is better as the camera shouldn't release until focus is achieved accurately when pressing the shutter button.
That's indeed set to Balanced Emphasis in my case... Will give it a try, thanks for the hint!

Just seen you've also got an a6400 - how would you say, which one is better/faster/more precise in terms of AF, a6400 or a7III?
 
Have a look at your AF settings - there's something for locking/tracking and can be set to 'responsive' where it does not keep to the plane of focus for AF-C.
Do you mean "AF Track Sensitiviy"? I have it set to 3 (Standard) and haven't really played around with it. Thanks for the hint!
Perhaps looking into 'portrait AF settings' and 'action AF settings' might help?
Not quite sure what you mean here - preset settings embedded in the camera (SCN)? Or general recommendations?
1. That's the one, apologies for using incorrect terminology!

2. General recommendations. You'll be able to find YouTube vids or blog posts regarding action photography with the A7iii or similar. (e.g. https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/guide/sony-a7-a9-settings-for-sports/)

These might help if your subject is either unpredictable or reasonably fast moving. :)
Thanks for the link! Actually, I've watched many of the Youtube videos (Mark Galer and others), but somehow trying to use the settings they recommend resulted in the miserable results which I came here with :(

But I'll try play around with some settings the people here suggested before making final conclusions...
 
Hi guys,

Having read all the threads on A7iii autofocus issues (especially the epic one from 2018 )
he was doing a number of things wrong, and he didn't want to listen to the advice that people were giving him.
I own A7iii for about a year shooting mainly with the 55mm 1.8 Zeiss lens, mostly portraits and family pictures with a toddler. From the beginning I was so disappointed with the results - too many images came out blurry or misfocused - that I even put the camera away for a while. Until recently, when I decided to do a thorough testing.

I typically take portraits with AF-C, enforcing Eye AF by a dedicated back button (AF-ON). I assume that the back button Eye AF fully overrides the shutter AF (found also several confirmations of that here on dpreview).
"Once you’ve set up Back-Button AF, leave the first three settings alone. You only need to change one setting to switch Back-Button AF off and on:

Choose Menu > Custom Settings > AF w/shutter > On/On."

Setting Back Button AF on Sony a7 Series Cameras (briansmith.com)
Thanks for the advice!

So that's about taking the focus completely off the shutter button. Then I probably need one back button for general AF and another one for Eye AF.
Another conclusion is that the tracking of even a slowly moving subject is not reliable – but here I’m also not sure if that’s normal for this camera and I’m just expecting too much.

Examples:

AF-S, f/1.8, Eye AF
don't try tracking with af-s, these are af-c cameras.
Sure I'm tracking with af-c, here af-s was used for static pictures as one of the test cases. Then I used af-c for static portrait and then for tracking the movement.
try it again with bbaf setup correctly, using:

1) wide open aperture

2) in front-lit bright sunlight, so that you can run a much faster shutter speed than what you have been testing with, in order to eliminate variables
Will try that, even though I thought 1/400 is more than enough for a slow moving subject. Would a faster shutter speed and a higher ISO do? For the "bright sunlight", I have to wait till spring :(
 
This sounds exactly as what I observed with a7r3, the autofocus was a complete mess. I just don't trust it. Much worst than my a6500. Luckily I was able to return it.
I remember reading a thread here when someone had the same issue and after trying everything, decided to send the camera for replacement. He then reported that the new one was working properly. So not a user error (like many here will try to convince you).
Thanks for sharing this experience! I'm sometimes thinking of renting another a7iii body just to cross-check...
 
Two of your husband marked as blurry are definitely motion blurred slightly.

Andrew
That's an interesting observation - didn't expect this at 1/400 and a very slow moving subject. But indeed, in every of these tracking series also with small apertures I got every second picture blurry all over (at least it's hard to say where the focus actually is). Will try to test at a faster shutter speed.
 
Have you tried to take similar pictures with a different lens? That would suggest it is a lens rather than body problem if the results are better.
Yes, I did the same tests with the kit 28-70 mm lens. But since f/3.5-4.5 are its maximum apertures, my test cases were unconclusive (the DOF was so forgiving that all lenses showed acceptable sharpness on static objects). However, the tracking tests failed as well - even an f/4.5, every second shot in a series was blurred.
Also, in terms of settings, what is your camera firmware?
The latest 3.10.
On my A7iii, FW Ver.3.10., with single subject shots, the camera will lock-on to eye focus without having to press any extra buttons for eye-af.
In AF-C, it happens in most cases for me as well. I'm just using the button to additionally force Eye AF, to be 100% sure.
Not the same subject, but a static eye-af shot, here is my cat, A7iii/55mm/1/250 f2.8 iso 2000 converted and cropped to JPEG from RAW. To me it is (acceptably) sharp.
To me it looks perfectly sharp!!
If your firmware is 3.10, and you are locking on to the eye in AF, then perhaps it is a sign that your lens is out of alignment.
What confuses me the most is that the front focus does not happen in 100% of the cases. 50-70% maybe...
Another thought....in your menu (Camera1/5/14) what is your Priority Set in AF-C?

If I recall, by default it is set to Balanced Emphasis but for me, setting AF is better as the camera shouldn't release until focus is achieved accurately when pressing the shutter button.
That's indeed set to Balanced Emphasis in my case... Will give it a try, thanks for the hint!

Just seen you've also got an a6400 - how would you say, which one is better/faster/more precise in terms of AF, a6400 or a7III?
I think that the a6400 Real Time Tracking is probably 'stickier' when locked on to a subject but I've only had my A7iii for 6 months and the type of shots I've been doing with it have not caused me any focusing problems in C-AF. (Animal or Human Eye AF or Subject Tracking). As I've commented previously, (to ME) the Focus Tracking on the A7iii is about 80% as good as the a6400 and that is good enough for me.
 
Another thought....in your menu (Camera1/5/14) what is your Priority Set in AF-C?

If I recall, by default it is set to Balanced Emphasis but for me, setting AF is better as the camera shouldn't release until focus is achieved accurately when pressing the shutter button.
That's indeed set to Balanced Emphasis in my case... Will give it a try, thanks for the hint!
that setting changes whether or not the photo is actually taken, depending how the camera defines proper focus, but i don't think that it has much if any effect on how the af works?

with sports on the a9, i'm set to "release", so it maintains the highest framerate regardless of whether or not the camera thinks that the shot is in focus... of course it's more work in post, having to sort out the occasional mis-focused pics :-/ but i'd rather do that than depend on the camera to decide what's in focus and what isn't.

the setting to look at is af track sensitivity... i'm usually at 1(locked on) with the a9, for everything including portraits, but sony has a dedicated af settings guide for how they think it should be done, here it is with eyeaf: ILCE-9 Focus Setting Guide | Focusing on a person’s face or eyes | SONY

some of that could be applicable to the a7iii, although you won't have real-time tracking capability, you'll be doing it with real-time eyeaf.

see the video for an explanation of what real-time tracking is.

b0adfc03ff004a1598e5f4804ab3a854.jpg
 
Hi guys,

Having read all the threads on A7iii autofocus issues (especially the epic one from 2018 )
he was doing a number of things wrong, and he didn't want to listen to the advice that people were giving him.
I own A7iii for about a year shooting mainly with the 55mm 1.8 Zeiss lens, mostly portraits and family pictures with a toddler. From the beginning I was so disappointed with the results - too many images came out blurry or misfocused - that I even put the camera away for a while. Until recently, when I decided to do a thorough testing.

I typically take portraits with AF-C, enforcing Eye AF by a dedicated back button (AF-ON). I assume that the back button Eye AF fully overrides the shutter AF (found also several confirmations of that here on dpreview).
"Once you’ve set up Back-Button AF, leave the first three settings alone. You only need to change one setting to switch Back-Button AF off and on:

Choose Menu > Custom Settings > AF w/shutter > On/On."

Setting Back Button AF on Sony a7 Series Cameras (briansmith.com)
Thanks for the advice!

So that's about taking the focus completely off the shutter button. Then I probably need one back button for general AF and another one for Eye AF.
that could be the case with the a7iii, because it doesn't have real-time tracking like the later models.

the key point there though is that you should disable af with the shutter button, when using any kind of back-button af.

i never use af with the shutter button, for anything, in part because these older models do not have a good easily discernable half-press point... i leave it disabled 100% of the time, even with the a9, it's bbaf all the way.
Another conclusion is that the tracking of even a slowly moving subject is not reliable – but here I’m also not sure if that’s normal for this camera and I’m just expecting too much.

Examples:

AF-S, f/1.8, Eye AF
don't try tracking with af-s, these are af-c cameras.
Sure I'm tracking with af-c, here af-s was used for static pictures as one of the test cases. Then I used af-c for static portrait and then for tracking the movement.
people who are posing can move slightly, especially kids, they never stand still :)
try it again with bbaf setup correctly, using:

1) wide open aperture

2) in front-lit bright sunlight, so that you can run a much faster shutter speed than what you have been testing with, in order to eliminate variables
Will try that, even though I thought 1/400 is more than enough for a slow moving subject.
1/800th minimum is the standard for shooting sports, the link that was posted earlier is wrong.

someone walking slowly isn't sports per se, but then with sports we aren't usually zoomed in to half-body shots, looking for sharp eyelashes.
Would a faster shutter speed and a higher ISO do? For the "bright sunlight", I have to wait till spring :(
test it outside during mid-day, with the light behind you, even with clouds, 1/800th minimum, aperture wide open, got to eliminate the motion blur that's in some of those test pics.

if you are getting an acceptable keeper ratio that way, it's not the gear... if there are still issues, test it with other fast lenses, especially one of the later 20fps-capable lenses:

 
Walking isn't a completely smooth movement of the head, sometimes it'll be moving quickly.

Also 'very slow movement' depends on position relative to you.

A person walking 1m in front of you will move through the field of view more quickly than someone running across 100m away.

Andrew
 
A couple of things of note:

Are you using silent shutter, EFCS, or mechanical? Especially with the silent shutter, you may get issues due to the length of time it takes for the sensor readout. EFCS less so, but won't happen with full mechanical.

Shooting in a continuous drive mode, I find that I am often introducing camera shake by accidentally mashing down on the shutter too hard/fast, and that can cause blurriness - Especially in the 2nd or later shots in a series.
 

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