Phew - do not cut yourself - 50mm f1.2 S!

The problem for the 1.2 is the 1.8.

And it's a BIG problem in that the 1.2 is pretty big and heavy against a much better handling lens that truly has world class performance.

The 1.8 is that good, small, easy to handle, great bokeh and crazy sharp. I already own some expensive BIG lenses and naturally they get a lot less use. I just tested the Sigma 135 ART prime on the Z7 II and it's a stunner, but BIG and I doubt I'll use it all that much. The only big lens that I use often is the 70-200 FL, but it's hugely versatile against a prime.

We all want a "complete" kit of glass, but how much of it just sits? Half of my glass is rarely touched and I fear the 50mm 1.2 would be in the same boat.

Robert
I tend to agree. I have the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art. Bought it out of a GAS attack since it was apparently THE F mount 50mm lens for IQ. I think I've taken less than 10 photos with it. It's just too big for casual use.

I suppose if I had a big shoot where 50mm was the focal length I needed I'd pull it out. But other than that... I can't remember the last time I used my 50mm f/1.8D. The 50mm that comes with my 24-70 f/4 and 24-120 f/4 suffice. I also would hardly ever use a fast lens below f/2.8 or f/4.

Obviously, this lens isn't targeted at me. But I wonder how many people will buy this lens and hardly ever use it after the excitement of "bokeh balls" wears off.
 
It doesn't make sense because the 70-200 would be used for my children's sports competitions... which have not taken place consistently, or at all for 9 months.

The 50mm would be a for travel/street and me wings are clipped right now.

I am not in the habit of purchasing things which will sit idle or almost so.
 
The problem for the 1.2 is the 1.8.

And it's a BIG problem in that the 1.2 is pretty big and heavy against a much better handling lens that truly has world class performance.

The 1.8 is that good, small, easy to handle, great bokeh and crazy sharp. I already own some expensive BIG lenses and naturally they get a lot less use. I just tested the Sigma 135 ART prime on the Z7 II and it's a stunner, but BIG and I doubt I'll use it all that much. The only big lens that I use often is the 70-200 FL, but it's hugely versatile against a prime.

We all want a "complete" kit of glass, but how much of it just sits? Half of my glass is rarely touched and I fear the 50mm 1.2 would be in the same boat.

Robert
I tend to agree. I have the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art. Bought it out of a GAS attack since it was apparently THE F mount 50mm lens for IQ. I think I've taken less than 10 photos with it. It's just too big for casual use.

I suppose if I had a big shoot where 50mm was the focal length I needed I'd pull it out. But other than that... I can't remember the last time I used my 50mm f/1.8D. The 50mm that comes with my 24-70 f/4 and 24-120 f/4 suffice. I also would hardly ever use a fast lens below f/2.8 or f/4.

Obviously, this lens isn't targeted at me. But I wonder how many people will buy this lens and hardly ever use it after the excitement of "bokeh balls" wears off.
You nailed it.

And I actually feel guilty buying such a nice lens like the Sigma 135 ART and letting it sit. It sits because the 70-200 FL does more and nets me more keepers overall. I know the Sigma can grab something special, but it can also lose me more shots as well.

So if I'm being 100% practical: 24-70 and 70-200 and maybe one or two fast primes is all I'd EVER need. I'm trying to focus on pairing down my kit. Someone else can make use of the stuff I bought due to GAS!

GAS is really amazingly capable of melting brain cells. A few months ago I got swept up in all of the rave reviews of the Fuji X100v and I bought one in a ZGAS moment (Zombi Gear Acquisition Syndrome, which is far worse than normal GAS). It's even better than I thought it would be. But I'm likely to use the Z7II 95% time instead and I really didn't need the Fuji. But...it's such a sweet little camera! Duh!

1st world problems, but I'm trying to be a bit more responsible and less wasteful with these new lenses.

Robert
 
Wouldn't the "theoretical performance of a perfect lens" be a straight line across the top at 1.0?
Somewhat away from topic my short answer yes - when discussing a manufactures MTF obtained with specialist equipment to test the lens without a body attached.

There is a lot of forum noise about "theoretical performance" - without saying what is meant by "theoretical".

Leica expert say, IMO sensibly, if manufacturers theoretical MTF assumptions - including standards for manufacturing accuracy assumed - are achieved - when production starts calculated and measured MTF should be the same.

One detail I am looking into is a report from a source I consider reliable that the "standard" viewing distance assumption fo a 10x8 inch print in many photographic calculations is 30 inches - over twice the diagonal of a 10x8 in print.

If viewing of a 10x8 print at 30 inches is adapted to a 12x8 print (3 to 2 format) - by a manufacturer or others - 10 cycles/mm MTF is less than 800 pixels equivalent on the long dimension of the frame - and 30 cycles/mm MTF is less than 2500 pixels equivalent on the long dimension of the frame.

These possible manufactures MTF starting points require very low resolutions compared to most of today's digital camera/lens resolving ability.

--
Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is much more about how equipment is used rather than anything else.
 
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https://www.ephotozine.com/article/nikon-nikkor-z-50mm-f-1-2-s-review-35177

While ephotozine rarely seriously field test a lens, the MTF 50 graph shows outstanding sharpness centre - and edge.
Do you know if anyone is using extension tubes with that lens for close ups? I am curious how well it would retain it's sharpness. I bet there could be some outstanding bokeh at high magnification. A friend uses tubes on his 85mm Z f1.8 and gets very sharp close ups.
Even the average of 3500 centre/edge of 3500 LWPH at f16 would have been outstanding for the optimum aperture in the era of 36 MP bodies.

Can I afford one - without winning the lottery?
 
Do you know if anyone is using extension tubes with that lens for close ups? I am curious how well it would retain it's sharpness. I bet there could be some outstanding bokeh at high magnification. A friend uses tubes on his 85mm Z f1.8 and gets very sharp close ups.
Can you buy any good Z extension tubes?

The only ones I know of are Kenko. I asked WEX if the Kenko had some play, allowing a lens to droop below the optical centre. WEX said yes :-(

I expect, like many recent lenses, the rear element is intended to be at a constant fixed distance from the sensor for best results, using tubes changes the distance, and you can end up with some colour fringing.

With a combined weight of around 4 pounds with a Z body the combination is on the heavy side for hand holding for an hour or more.
 
Do you know if anyone is using extension tubes with that lens for close ups? I am curious how well it would retain it's sharpness. I bet there could be some outstanding bokeh at high magnification. A friend uses tubes on his 85mm Z f1.8 and gets very sharp close ups.
Can you buy any good Z extension tubes?
These tubes are metal and my friends are using them with their 85mm Z f1.8 lenses and working very well.

Meike MK-Z-AF1 11mm and 18mm Extension Tubes for Nik MK-Z-AF1-A (bhphotovideo.com)
The only ones I know of are Kenko. I asked WEX if the Kenko had some play, allowing a lens to droop below the optical centre. WEX said yes :-(

I expect, like many recent lenses, the rear element is intended to be at a constant fixed distance from the sensor for best results, using tubes changes the distance, and you can end up with some colour fringing.
I agree and am holding out for the upcoming 105 macro Z lens.
With a combined weight of around 4 pounds with a Z body the combination is on the heavy side for hand holding for an hour or more.
I have had shoulder surgeries and totally agree with that.

--
Ernie Misner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/erniemisner/
The first digital image was made in the late '60's for NASA, as a way to record images of Mars. Each "square" was represented by three numbers, corresponding to the red, green, and blue hue on a scale of 0 to 255. This eliminated the need to ship film back to Earth.
 
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Thanks for the link.

This brand seems not available in the UK.

Probably the same product with a different name is available in the UK at under £50 - compared to Kenko at £199 from Amazon. Kenko slop when 2 are linked.

Most of the owners giving feedback to Amazonon the £47 pound version complain of slop when fitting 2 together.

If your friends are no better for slop - using them can be similar to using a lens with a known tilt problem - maybe OK for a subject where good detail is only needed in the centre of the frame - but unlikely to be OK when consistent corner detail is required.
 

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