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Digital Rebel and 10D side by side

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Marty Schultz said:
Mirror lockup is for reducing vibration, needed when using high
magnification and/or long exposures. For astrophotography it is a
nessesity, even with a telescope on a rock solid mount the mirror
slap on my 10D causes vibration that lasts 5 to 10 seconds, at
1600mm the slightest vibration is noticable...
Click to expand...
I see...I am not going to go pass 300mm or 400mm and so far sharp no problem. I wil not use the zoom anyway at low light much either. I use the zoom for wildlife and for that I need good light.

I did not noticed any blurring from that in long exposure either. I tried 10s and 15s and they were sharp. Although we had to use the timer because just pressing the shutter button was making some blurr.
Marty Schultz said:
You also need a remote cable to make it work, for some stupid
reason the self timer on the 10D changes from 10 seconds to 3
seconds when using mirror lockup. Anyway, if you are using a
tripod and remote and can see the image shake in the viewfinder
after taking a shot mirror lockup will help reduce that.

--
Later,
Marty

Olympus: OM-1, C-2IOO, D-49O, D-4OZ
Canon: 1OD

http://science.widener.edu/~schultz/digipicts.html
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
Are you sure??? 5 to 10 sec, you got some kind of resonance tripod?
Marty Schultz said:
even with a telescope on a rock solid mount the mirror
slap on my 10D causes vibration that lasts 5 to 10 seconds, at
1600mm the slightest vibration is noticable...
Click to expand...
 
... nt
Lenaolsen said:
I am trying to decide between getting the EOS 10D and the new
Digital Rebel. I have seen this comparison
http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/CanonRebelDvs10D.shtml , and wonder
if the Digital Rebel is not the way to go.

Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important? I tend to be fairly careful with my camera equipment.
The main features of these two cameras look very similar. And
according to Phil the image quality from the Rebel is very good.

Just figure for the difference in price I can get a new additional
lens like the 75-300mm. I used to have a Canon A1 35mm SLR system.

Is there anything else that I should really consider before I make
my decision? Any advice to a new beginner in digital photography is
gratefully appreciated.

Thanks,

Lena Olsen
Click to expand...
 
dunno but my pic at 5s, 10s and even 15s where tack sharp. must have less resonance than his.
dchao said:
Marty Schultz said:
even with a telescope on a rock solid mount the mirror
slap on my 10D causes vibration that lasts 5 to 10 seconds, at
1600mm the slightest vibration is noticable...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
Me too, using a strong and sturdy tripod plus cable release solves the vibration problem for me. I have a Bogen/Manfotto tripod.
Daniella said:
dunno but my pic at 5s, 10s and even 15s where tack sharp. must
have less resonance than his.
Click to expand...
 
Mirror lock-up is very important --- Read the new article at Lumionus landscape.

I understand that the 300d does not support this feature.....

Dave
dchao said:
Lenaolsen said:
I am trying to decide between getting the EOS 10D and the new
Digital Rebel. I have seen this comparison
http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/CanonRebelDvs10D.shtml , and wonder
if the Digital Rebel is not the way to go.

Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important? I tend to be fairly careful with my camera equipment.
The main features of these two cameras look very similar. And
according to Phil the image quality from the Rebel is very good.

Just figure for the difference in price I can get a new additional
lens like the 75-300mm. I used to have a Canon A1 35mm SLR system.

Is there anything else that I should really consider before I make
my decision? Any advice to a new beginner in digital photography is
gratefully appreciated.

Thanks,

Lena Olsen
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
What bugs me is why the camera to CF write time is so slow.

Compared to the 1D, it's absurdly slow. Strikes me as very odd.
taylor-design said:
  • The 9 frame buffer. Recently at an air show I only hit the busy
signal twice, and I was shooting like mad. Had that been a 4 frame
buffer I know I would have been frustrated. (I would have paid more
for a 10D with an even larger buffer...which brings up a point: why
doesn't Canon offer a buffer memory expansion slot? I'd buy that
RAM upgrade.)
Click to expand...
--
Bob Lindabury
 
SJN2003 said:
The flash head is not as high on the 10D, therefore when you are
using a wide angle with a lens hood in place you get a shadow
formed in the picture.
Click to expand...
On the other hand I more like 10D flash for less shadow in fill-flash situations with a tele lens.....
 
Based on the advice provided, I decided to return the 75-300mm USM.

I looked at the EF 70-200 F4 L, which does look nice. The salesman however was recommending the Sigma 70-300mm F4-F5.6 APO Zoom as an alternative to the lens I returned.

I do like the idea of having the extra focal length a 300mm lens offers, however, I do not want to sacrifice in image quality.

Overall, it seems that Sigma lenses have a good reputation. Any opinions on this particular Sigma zoom?

Thanks,

Lena
 
This is a nice, inexpensive zoom. I've found it to be sharp. The moose pics I posted in the recent wildlife thread were shot with that lens.
-David
Lenaolsen said:
Based on the advice provided, I decided to return the 75-300mm USM.

I looked at the EF 70-200 F4 L, which does look nice. The salesman
however was recommending the Sigma 70-300mm F4-F5.6 APO Zoom as an
alternative to the lens I returned.

I do like the idea of having the extra focal length a 300mm lens
offers, however, I do not want to sacrifice in image quality.

Overall, it seems that Sigma lenses have a good reputation. Any
opinions on this particular Sigma zoom?

Thanks,

Lena
Click to expand...
--
David



http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/home?userid= {F351C88E-FEF7-4892-9F30-9FD2DDD1593C}&tio=0tio=0&st=he&GUID={0AB0EAE9-1AF7-41AE-966B-588570432D96}&sent=stored
 
Lenaolsen said:
Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important?
Click to expand...
IMO the metal versus plastic body arguments are not as important as some make out. After all it is not a hollow plastic shell. Any impact severe enough to do major damage to either body exterior would probably trash the electronics inside anyway.

--
John
 
The heavier weight of the 10d does help with balance for a "heavy" lens and does help dampend mirror slap.

Dave
John Burns said:
Lenaolsen said:
Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important?
Click to expand...
IMO the metal versus plastic body arguments are not as important as
some make out. After all it is not a hollow plastic shell. Any
impact severe enough to do major damage to either body exterior
would probably trash the electronics inside anyway.

--
John
Click to expand...
 
Daniella said:
I see...I am not going to go pass 300mm or 400mm and so far sharp
no problem. I wil not use the zoom anyway at low light much either.
I use the zoom for wildlife and for that I need good light.
Click to expand...
If you're not going to use longer lenses and have a sturdy tripod you shouldn't have a problem with vibration from the mirror slap.
Daniella68313 said:
I did not noticed any blurring from that in long exposure either.
I tried 10s and 15s and they were sharp. Although we had to use
the timer because just pressing the shutter button was making some
blurr.
Click to expand...
The self timer does work well for reducing the vibration from pressing the shutter button, the remote is more convenient because you can half press the button to check exposure without touching the camera. You also get immediate control, sometimes your scene can change in those 10 seconds before the self timer goes off. The wired remote for the D-rebel is the same as for many of the other rebels, most camera stores have them in stock for $30 or so.

--
Later,
Marty

Olympus: OM-1, C-2IOO, D-49O, D-4OZ
Canon: 1OD

http://science.widener.edu/~schultz/digipicts.html
 
what's wrong with wildlife photography and the 300D? I tried a 500mm lens and had great result with it handheld. I would not use slow shutter for wildlife anyway..don,t see the point unless you use slow shutter.

I will never use shutter slower than 1/30s for wildlife. and even at that shutter and slower, I have not find that the mirror vibration is a problem.

why is it a problem for wilflife???
digicaman said:
I understand that the 300d does not support this feature.....

Dave
dchao said:
Lenaolsen said:
I am trying to decide between getting the EOS 10D and the new
Digital Rebel. I have seen this comparison
http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/CanonRebelDvs10D.shtml , and wonder
if the Digital Rebel is not the way to go.

Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important? I tend to be fairly careful with my camera equipment.
The main features of these two cameras look very similar. And
according to Phil the image quality from the Rebel is very good.

Just figure for the difference in price I can get a new additional
lens like the 75-300mm. I used to have a Canon A1 35mm SLR system.

Is there anything else that I should really consider before I make
my decision? Any advice to a new beginner in digital photography is
gratefully appreciated.

Thanks,

Lena Olsen
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
hmm i have heard of people getting refused at sport events with a 10D wereas they got in with a 300D because they look different.

so my question is..beside the different in burst, why the 300d is not suitable for sport?
dchao said:
Lenaolsen said:
I am trying to decide between getting the EOS 10D and the new
Digital Rebel. I have seen this comparison
http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/CanonRebelDvs10D.shtml , and wonder
if the Digital Rebel is not the way to go.

Although I am a very active photographer, and like to do a lot of
travel photography I don't know if the extra construction is that
important? I tend to be fairly careful with my camera equipment.
The main features of these two cameras look very similar. And
according to Phil the image quality from the Rebel is very good.

Just figure for the difference in price I can get a new additional
lens like the 75-300mm. I used to have a Canon A1 35mm SLR system.

Is there anything else that I should really consider before I make
my decision? Any advice to a new beginner in digital photography is
gratefully appreciated.

Thanks,

Lena Olsen
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
use a 170-500 APO and the photos were sharp. used a 100-400 L lens. photos were even sharper..no problem there up to 1/60s. which I would not go slower anyway for wildlife.. sometime I think people talk without even trying things..or without any knowledge...
Marty Schultz said:
Daniella said:
I see...I am not going to go pass 300mm or 400mm and so far sharp
no problem. I wil not use the zoom anyway at low light much either.
I use the zoom for wildlife and for that I need good light.
Click to expand...
If you're not going to use longer lenses and have a sturdy tripod
you shouldn't have a problem with vibration from the mirror slap.
Marty Schultz said:
I did not noticed any blurring from that in long exposure either.
I tried 10s and 15s and they were sharp. Although we had to use
the timer because just pressing the shutter button was making some
blurr.
Click to expand...
The self timer does work well for reducing the vibration from
pressing the shutter button, the remote is more convenient because
you can half press the button to check exposure without touching
the camera. You also get immediate control, sometimes your scene
can change in those 10 seconds before the self timer goes off. The
wired remote for the D-rebel is the same as for many of the other
rebels, most camera stores have them in stock for $30 or so.

--
Later,
Marty

Olympus: OM-1, C-2IOO, D-49O, D-4OZ
Canon: 1OD

http://science.widener.edu/~schultz/digipicts.html
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
for most people to 600mm is enough..

As if you have to use this mm to do wildlife...really funny! 1600mm is not really for wildlife though..it is more for astrophotography? how can you even find a tiny bird flying at that magnitude? I woudl have problem fiding the moon. :)

I think that 600mm is the most I would go probably. and if I had the money to buy a 1600mm or a 2000mm (14,000$), then I would not buy a 10D but a 12mp DSLR...
Marty Schultz said:
http://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/canon_10d/astro/scope_camera.jpg
dchao said:
Daniella said:
dunno but my pic at 5s, 10s and even 15s where tack sharp. must
have less resonance than his.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Later,
Marty

Olympus: OM-1, C-2IOO, D-49O, D-4OZ
Canon: 1OD

http://science.widener.edu/~schultz/digipicts.html
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
BTW, you can resell that kit lens on ebay easily. they go fast.
Lenaolsen said:
Thanks for all the advice.

I ended up buying the Digital Rebel today, however, I decided to
upgrade to the Canon 17-40mm lens. Also purchased the 75-300mm USM
lens.

I did not like the feel of the 18-35mm kit lens (very plastic). I
also do a fair amount of enlargements and feel the investment in
the better glass will pay off in the end.

As far as the features of the body are concerned, I think the
capabilities of the Digital Rebel will meet my personal
requirements.

Looking forward to trying out my new toy this coming weekend.

Thanks again.

Greetings,

Lena
Click to expand...
--
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com

c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
 
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