Need help with fixing early Helios 44.

Hello, good afternoon. I brought the Helios 44 silver early 8 bladed version by KMZ. The seller lied about a few things. The lens would make a wobbling sound when slightly shook. They said the focusing wasn't stiff, and it was stiffer than a dead horse on roids. Now, since I have some experience repairing some Japanese lenses. I'd figure this shouldn't give me to much trouble. I opened it up, and gave it a much needed cleaning. I applied grease where it needed to be applied. I followed two video guides and a written one by someone named Tom. I put the lens back together and for some reason. I can't get the MFD to go to M 0.5 it stops at 0.55.




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Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.



Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

"Does it otherwise focus well to infinity?" I set it to infinity when I screw in the aluminum housing of the rear inner focusing ring. However I haven't tested it with the optical block inserted. "If so, I’d leave as is" That's not an option that I'm willing to accept. I would like it to function as it was originally intended to. I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly. I'm thinking maybe the rear inner focusing ring was swapped? I'd need someone to comfirm this though.

Prince Harbinger said:

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly.

Click to expand...

If the lens is not focusing correctly, its probably not reassembled correctly. My guess, without having your lens in hand, is that the helicoid is "bottoming out". Give it half a turn more slack.

--
Formally Evogt500

I haven't had to work on my Helios 44s yet, so the following might not apply but here goes:

You mention that it won't focus to the 0.5m mark, but does it also focus way past the infinity mark?

How many starts does the helicoid have? I would guess that you're only off by one start on your reassembly - take the helicoid apart again, paying close attention to the exact position at which it comes apart, then rotate it by one start accordingly and bring it back down. There's little risk of harm in repeating this multiple times if you need to in order to get it right.

I might see a bunch of extra grease in your pictures - I'd get rid of as much of the excess as possible if I were you -- oily aperture blades are common for these lenses.

Aoi Usagi said:

Prince Harbinger said:

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly.

Click to expand...

If the lens is not focusing correctly, its probably not reassembled correctly. My guess, without having your lens in hand, is that the helicoid is "bottoming out". Give it half a turn more slack.

--
Formally Evogt500

Click to expand...

I never opened up the piece that is holding the helicoid into place. Which screws would release it? Would it be the ones on the top or bottom?

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Prince Harbinger said:

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

"Does it otherwise focus well to infinity?" I set it to infinity when I screw in the aluminum housing of the rear inner focusing ring. However I haven't tested it with the optical block inserted. "If so, I’d leave as is" That's not an option that I'm willing to accept. I would like it to function as it was originally intended to. I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly. I'm thinking maybe the rear inner focusing ring was swapped? I'd need someone to comfirm this though.

Click to expand...

I’d test at infinity first, because you could be having a bigger problem. And noticing may help you resolve this. Does it stop at 55 hard and instantly or just seems to rapidly become resistant with a little room in stiffness? If so, it’s the fine helicoid that reaches the limit, and you need to do one more turn or so. It has happened to me with other lenses.

I can say the thing that I enjoy the least are helicoid things. If I could go back in time, I’d make a law in every country lenses need to have an optical block with front aperture ring and a separate helicoid part, like the Bellows Macro Topcor 58/3.5 has with the Variable Extension tube (with could have aperture control fitting as well etc). Anyone not doing that would have a 100,000,000% sales tax attached.

Millions of lenses die due fungus or malfunctioning blades due to oil, and a few other million die as someone tried to add a little grease to the helicoids.

Need to see the other side, and the sides too. But most lenses have 3 parts in the helicoid system that work like this, very broadly. A fine-thread helicoid, small one, and two larger ones, inner and outer. One of the big ones rotares along this small-thread one, meaning it displaced a tiny bit. This same bigger long-thread one has a guide (metal rail going towards the front) that fit into cavities of the last (usually outer) helicoid. So as the inner large threaded one rotated over the fine thread one very little, the outer one gets pushed by these metal guides (which push to the sides and create rotation motion on the third one. This is what actually extends the two large threaded ones pushing the block outwards.

Now, if the small helicoid gets set in a position where it has no room to further rotate (reaches something that prevents movement, limiting it) then, then it means it was inserted too much before making the larger threads ones play with it.

I can guarantee this is the simplest things in the world, and at the same time some kind of mind bending nightmare to get right - for some lenses.

This is why I asked about the way it stops at 55”. It it’s a sudden “tic” sound, or very very suddenly hard stop then it’s not this problem above. But if it’s a more muted sound, or sometimes less sudden (eg. Has. 1mm rotation or more that is just more like “stuck”) then it’s more likely to be the helicoid reassembly.

Whatever you do, it guarantee this will be frustrating ...mark exactly if you make the parts apart, Mark exactly on both sides exactly where they came off each other, and count the turns from some point until our. At least at the beginning. Today, I go by hunt -trial/error but I learned spot how much I am off on first attempt and at most do 3 tries, often right on first or second. Helicoids are the most infuriation thing in lenses, maybe followed closely with micro-grease on the lens surface. For example, based on the photo you show, I’d be 500x more worried about the haze and grease I see in the optic that MFD because it affects glow and image at any stop and focusing distance.

If all else fails and infinity is actually ok but not registering correctly then you can always release the external indicator scale fixing screws and reset the indicator to the true infinity if that is indeed the issue.

Prince Harbinger said:

Aoi Usagi said:

Prince Harbinger said:

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly.

Click to expand...

If the lens is not focusing correctly, its probably not reassembled correctly. My guess, without having your lens in hand, is that the helicoid is "bottoming out". Give it half a turn more slack.

Click to expand...

I never opened up the piece that is holding the helicoid into place. Which screws would release it? Would it be the ones on the top or bottom?

Click to expand...

Looking at your first couple photos, you removed the female and male portion from each other. They need to be clocked in place exactly how they were attached before you disassembled them.

--
Formally Evogt500

Here's a post I made a while back on servicing a Helios 44.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62779390

It's not super detailed but might help make it clear what's off with yours.

When you get to this point of reassembly:



...The helicoid should function normally, holding the base/mount and turning the fat ring the inner helicoid should extend and retract, when fully retracted there should be a small gap between the fat ring and the end that moves, it's partly extended in the above pic.

"You know you got it right if the stop screw hits it's stop just before it bottoms out."

If your helicoid operates the same, then your issue is with the clocking of the focus ring.

The Helios 44 and 44-2 don't have a secondary helicoid, the outer helicoid is retained by use of a flange and a keeper ring, it is loose enough to spin but that's it.

In the OP's first image, there is a huge amount of excessive grease, this is begging for trouble, that grease will likely end up where you don't want it, all it takes is a hot day and a bump will dislodge it, luckily the H44 has its helicoid separated from the optics by design, not all lenses do so, if the grease is being pushed out of the helicoid, you have too much grease. The seller probably set the lens to MFD to expose the helicoid and pumped in grease to coat the whole helicoid and eliminate any stiffness and avoid having to disassemble the lens, it saves the seller time but it only prolongs the inevitable CLA.

--
A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
[My Lens list](http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow)
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
Firmware request:
-A button map for toggling the EVF & LCD
-Still waiting for the minimum shutter speed with auto ISO for my NEX-7 and A7r. I know it will never happen.
-Customize the display screen layout, I'd love to have both Histogram and level at the same time.
-More peaking options, being able to set peaking sensitivity and a threshold level.
-An RGB overlay on the histogram -An option to return the focus assist zoom to one button press
-An option to return to how the NEX-7 handled playback, ie. center button to zoom, then you could use the control dial to zoom in and out, then center button to exit the zoom mode.

Prince Harbinger said:

Aoi Usagi said:

Prince Harbinger said:

fferreres said:

Does it otherwise focus well to infinity? If so, I’d leave as is. Ymmv but I would personally only complicate myself if infinity was way wrong. I often use Macro adapters meaning I have 5mm extra close focusing buffer on most cases.

Varies lens to lens, but usually these issues are most always related to at which thread you put the helicoid back, but also especially what is the position of the smaller thread helicoid when the rest is assembled. In all cases, the only think that usually works is clearly observe this in detail, myself. In a small number of cases, these hard stops are not helicoid related, but secured/placed by another mechanism, usually a ring with different heights or a plate that presses that is the the front side of the lens.

Click to expand...

I placed the front inner focusing ring, and the rear inner focusing ring correctly.

Click to expand...

If the lens is not focusing correctly, its probably not reassembled correctly. My guess, without having your lens in hand, is that the helicoid is "bottoming out". Give it half a turn more slack.

Click to expand...

I never opened up the piece that is holding the helicoid into place. Which screws would release it? Would it be the ones on the top or bottom

Click to expand...

The mount is in the upper left corner, inner helicoid lower left, outer helicoid lower right, and the retaining ring upper right. The inner helicoid has 2 set screws, one on the big flange, this is the focus stop, and the second set screw is actually a guide pin that slides in a groove in the mount, this prevents the inner helicoid from rotating which forced the helicoid to extend(You can see the screw hole at the top of the helicoid in the black area @ the 7:00 position.

There is a small flange on the mount(the silver part), it's sandwiched between the outer helicoid and the screw-on retaining ring, there will be a set screw or possibly 3 keeping the retaining ring from unscrewing(the focus ring attaches directly to the retaining ring and drive the outer helicoid), the focus ring attaches directly to the retains ring without any set screw the act of turning the focus ring could unscrew the retaining ring, so any set screws in the retaining ring should be removed and placed into a small container with a lid, this will keep them from falling out and vanishing, trust me on this, they do love to disappear.

If you require a more detailed explanation or help, feel free to ask.

The hardest part is making sure the helicoid starts in the correct position, if your lens doesn't go to MFD, either the helicoid is assembled incorrectly or the focus ring is clocked wrong, I would mount the optics to the helicoid and mount the lens to the camera(without the focus ring installed, focus to infinity if you can, add a witness mark if you can focus to infinity @ infinity, remove the optics and unmount the lens, double check it's still at the infinity position (thanks to the witness marks) and mount the focus ring aligned to the infinity mark.

If you cannot focus to infinity, the helicoid is assembled incorrectly.

--
A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
[My Lens list](http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow)
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
Firmware request:
-A button map for toggling the EVF & LCD
-Still waiting for the minimum shutter speed with auto ISO for my NEX-7 and A7r. I know it will never happen.
-Customize the display screen layout, I'd love to have both Histogram and level at the same time.
-More peaking options, being able to set peaking sensitivity and a threshold level.
-An RGB overlay on the histogram -An option to return the focus assist zoom to one button press
-An option to return to how the NEX-7 handled playback, ie. center button to zoom, then you could use the control dial to zoom in and out, then center button to exit the zoom mode.

Really appreciate all the helpful advice from everyone. I noticed that it hard stops past the M now on the MFD is that normal?




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The smaller screw where the optical block is seated doesn't screw on tightly. If you keep screwing it in it'll fall out. The larger screw underneath doesn't have that issue. Also one of the screws doesn't tighten on one of the three screws on the sides of the top housing. Another thing I noticed is one of the screws is visable where the optical block rest.




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One of the screws for the outer housing broke. Where can I find a replacement?




5

On the right hand side I can see a gap compared to the left hand side. This was like this when I first got the lens.




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7



This grease was recommended. I'm not impressed with it. The one that was used in the repair guides seem silky smooth compared to the one that I applied.




8

For anyone who thinks that I put the lens together badly. Here's a screenshot of the sellers listing.




9

When placing the optical block back into place and turning until tight. The aperture dial makes click sounds as you go over each stop. However the aperture blades do not move. They stay wide open. When you unscrew the optical block a fair bit. Until you are able to move it side to side when it is loose it's able to move the aperture blades silently. As if it is clickless. However this is unusable because as you stop down it keeps spinning the optical block. It's only when I place my index finger below the aperture ring, and place my thumb below to hold it into place. Am I able to turn the aperture dial without the block spinning. I'm very upset that the seller wasn't honest about all the issues with this lens. How can I fix this if at all possible? I really want to use this lens this Fall.

Prince Harbinger said:

Really appreciate all the helpful advice from everyone. I noticed that it hard stops past the M now on the MFD is that normal?


2


3

Click to expand...

This looks correct now. Both of my 44-2 (one of which is KMZ) have a hard stop there. Also note how the red/orange witness marks (via nail polish?) line up now? Yay.

Prince Harbinger said:

One of the screws for the outer housing broke. Where can I find a replacement?


5

Click to expand...

RIP grub screw. A donor lens would be the most likely source, but I'll bet someone knows exactly what size screw you'd need to order and where (you may need to buy hundreds at a time - still cheap AFAIK) and that they'll be responding shortly.

Prince Harbinger said:

On the right hand side I can see a gap compared to the left hand side. This was like this when I first got the lens.


6

Click to expand...

This might even out if/when you find a replacement screw for the focus ring and adjust all three evenly.

Prince Harbinger said:

This grease was recommended. I'm not impressed with it. The one that was used in the repair guides seem silky smooth compared to the one that I applied.


8

Click to expand...

I've looked into potentially using that very same grease - thanks for the warning on this stuff - looks like I'll have to avoid it in the future.

Prince Harbinger said:

For anyone who thinks that I put the lens together badly. Here's a screenshot of the sellers listing.


9

Click to expand...

"lens doesn't seem to be well assembled..." Well he got that right :-(

Disregard this message it was due to not placing the ring back on the thread of the optical block. I saw a video about the Helios 44-2 about removing that ring to get infinity focus to work on digital cameras. I figured it should work on the 44 version. Guess I was wrong. I'm guessing it is suppose to be a clickless aperture. Which I find kind of strange since to my knowledge this lens wasn't designed for video cameras. Anyway please discard this message. I wasn't able to edit my post. Thank you for your time.

"When placing the optical block back into place and turning until tight. The aperture dial makes click sounds as you go over each stop. However the aperture blades do not move. They stay wide open. When you unscrew the optical block a fair bit. Until you are able to move it side to side when it is loose it's able to move the aperture blades silently. As if it is clickless. However this is unusable because as you stop down it keeps spinning the optical block. It's only when I place my index finger below the aperture ring, and place my thumb below to hold it into place. Am I able to turn the aperture dial without the block spinning. I'm very upset that the seller wasn't honest about all the issues with this lens. How can I fix this if at all possible? I really want to use this lens this Fall."

Tons o Glass 0 Class said:

Prince Harbinger said:

Really appreciate all the helpful advice from everyone. I noticed that it hard stops past the M now on the MFD is that normal?


2


3

Click to expand...

This looks correct now. Both of my 44-2 (one of which is KMZ) have a hard stop there. Also note how the red/orange witness marks (via nail polish?) line up now? Yay.

Tons o Glass said:

One of the screws for the outer housing broke. Where can I find a replacement?


5

Click to expand...

RIP grub screw. A donor lens would be the most likely source, but I'll bet someone knows exactly what size screw you'd need to order and where (you may need to buy hundreds at a time - still cheap AFAIK) and that they'll be responding shortly.

Tons o Glass said:

On the right hand side I can see a gap compared to the left hand side. This was like this when I first got the lens.


6

Click to expand...

This might even out if/when you find a replacement screw for the focus ring and adjust all three evenly.

Tons o Glass said:

This grease was recommended. I'm not impressed with it. The one that was used in the repair guides seem silky smooth compared to the one that I applied.


8

Click to expand...

I've looked into potentially using that very same grease - thanks for the warning on this stuff - looks like I'll have to avoid it in the future.

Tons o Glass said:

For anyone who thinks that I put the lens together badly. Here's a screenshot of the sellers listing.


9

Click to expand...

"lens doesn't seem to be well assembled..." Well he got that right :-(

Click to expand...

Yeah your right. I wonder if I could clone it with a apoxy mold, and melt some solder wire. Perhaps I could 3D print it in metal.

Your theory on it evening out might be correct. If it is than the previous owner didn't tighten the screws properly.

The grease might perform better if I added some oil to it. I rather just buy some grease that's made specifically for the helicoid. I think I saw one on Amazon for $11.00

I am working (very slowly) on a project to make small quantities of various sized screws on demand.


I have much of the necessary gear and raw material assembled already - I just need to make myself a slotting guide so that I can manufacture precise tiny slots in tiny screws.

Yesterday some 1mm plain steel steel rod arrived and I am expecting some stainless steel rod “any day”and 1mm dies. I already have pre-threaded brass rod in several diameters.

I also have managed to run down and acquire some miniature set screws. But for pe-made screws there are just so many sizes and you really need to buy in at least 100 unit lots - 100 of these screws would not even half fill a thimble.

The issue of course is that lens repair where broken/lost screws are common usually only needs one or two screws of a particular size or sizes. Manufacturers (even retailers) cannot function on such small precise orders.

What we need is a system where small quantities of screws can be hand-made on demand in various sizes. I am working on this but I presume that anyone (there must be many) who has already done this has not documented the process. Jewellers do make screws if the are well set up - but the cost of a proper kit to do this commercially is probably outside the financial ambit of the amateur lens mechanic.

I am time poor at the moment, but I have been collecting the “ingredients” for “a method”. It may not be the best method but I will not know for sure until I try.

As an aside: buying a cheap lens for parts/screws does not work very well. I tried buying a very cheap Jupiter-8 to get some screws for the much more expensive, but very similar build, Jupiter-3 but it turned out that the aperture fixing screws were different sizes and the “cheap” J-8 was quite a good lens that just needed a thorough clean. Add that freight costs to Australia make sure that there are no really cheap landed lenses. Furthermore cheap old train wreck lenses (if they can be had) are usually damaged anyway and very possibly their screws are of no practical use anyway. Even a cheap(ish) “better quality” lens might turn out to be salvageable as well. And you end up with two cleaned up lenses still missing parts. Your original might end up the “spare-parts” version.

Grease: I use synthetic “no melt” grease but it seems to work best for smooth action when applied very sparingly. Too much and the focus action is still going to be stiff.

Sign me up for all sorts of Topcor and Rollei ones, hehe.

Prince Harbinger said:

Tons o Glass 0 Class said:

Prince Harbinger said:

Really appreciate all the helpful advice from everyone. I noticed that it hard stops past the M now on the MFD is that normal?


2


3

Click to expand...

This looks correct now. Both of my 44-2 (one of which is KMZ) have a hard stop there. Also note how the red/orange witness marks (via nail polish?) line up now? Yay.

Prince Harbinger said:

One of the screws for the outer housing broke. Where can I find a replacement?


5

Click to expand...

RIP grub screw. A donor lens would be the most likely source, but I'll bet someone knows exactly what size screw you'd need to order and where (you may need to buy hundreds at a time - still cheap AFAIK) and that they'll be responding shortly.

Prince Harbinger said:

On the right hand side I can see a gap compared to the left hand side. This was like this when I first got the lens.


6

Click to expand...

This might even out if/when you find a replacement screw for the focus ring and adjust all three evenly.

Prince Harbinger said:

This grease was recommended. I'm not impressed with it. The one that was used in the repair guides seem silky smooth compared to the one that I applied.


8

Click to expand...

I've looked into potentially using that very same grease - thanks for the warning on this stuff - looks like I'll have to avoid it in the future.

Prince Harbinger said:

For anyone who thinks that I put the lens together badly. Here's a screenshot of the sellers listing.


9

Click to expand...

"lens doesn't seem to be well assembled..." Well he got that right :-(

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

This would have been the sign for me to avoid this lens.

Same with "glass conditions, please refer to pictures " the picture had better be awesome or I'll pass, they are either being lazy or trying to hide stuff, I've seen a few auctions where they just barely show an issue in the picture, and the IQ sucks which make it hard to spot issues unless it's pointed out to you.

I seen one auction where the item was broken and missing a piece, but they staged the picture so as to make it look complete if you don't look too closely, and to top it off, the starting bid is high, at the same level as unbroken items in VG condition.

I've been had by a less than optimum pictures that had the issue way off in the corner of one picture and a large paragraph explaining it's wonderful condition and buried near the end of the paragraph is "hing broken" (like in my reply here) if you miss it, you're screwed.

Images should clearly show any damage, period. If

Prince Harbinger said:

Yeah your right. I wonder if I could clone it with a apoxy mold, and melt some solder wire. Perhaps I could 3D print it in metal.

Your theory on it evening out might be correct. If it is than the previous owner didn't tighten the screws properly.

The grease might perform better if I added some oil to it. I rather just buy some grease that's made specifically for the helicoid. I think I saw one on Amazon for $11.00

Click to expand...

No, don't add oil to it, it will likely never stay mixed in.

This is the grease I will be recommending for most users attempting to regrease a helicoid for the first time, its consistency is between whipped butter and vegetable shortening, most other greases over time will have some amount of oil come out of suspension, I've had my container for 3 years I think and there isn't a hint of any oil coming out, which sounds good to me for longevity in the lens.

The grease in question? Helimax XP https://www.ebay.com/itm/HELIMAX-XP...-Focusing-Helicoid-Grease-w-PTFE/271194713421

--
A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
[My Lens list](http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow)
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
Firmware request:
-A button map for toggling the EVF & LCD
-Still waiting for the minimum shutter speed with auto ISO for my NEX-7 and A7r. I know it will never happen.
-Customize the display screen layout, I'd love to have both Histogram and level at the same time.
-More peaking options, being able to set peaking sensitivity and a threshold level.
-An RGB overlay on the histogram -An option to return the focus assist zoom to one button press
-An option to return to how the NEX-7 handled playback, ie. center button to zoom, then you could use the control dial to zoom in and out, then center button to exit the zoom mode.

Lightshow said:

Prince Harbinger said:

Tons o Glass 0 Class said:

Prince Harbinger said:

Really appreciate all the helpful advice from everyone. I noticed that it hard stops past the M now on the MFD is that normal?


2


3

Click to expand...

This looks correct now. Both of my 44-2 (one of which is KMZ) have a hard stop there. Also note how the red/orange witness marks (via nail polish?) line up now? Yay.

Lightshow said:

One of the screws for the outer housing broke. Where can I find a replacement?


5

Click to expand...

RIP grub screw. A donor lens would be the most likely source, but I'll bet someone knows exactly what size screw you'd need to order and where (you may need to buy hundreds at a time - still cheap AFAIK) and that they'll be responding shortly.

Lightshow said:

On the right hand side I can see a gap compared to the left hand side. This was like this when I first got the lens.


6

Click to expand...

This might even out if/when you find a replacement screw for the focus ring and adjust all three evenly.

Lightshow said:

This grease was recommended. I'm not impressed with it. The one that was used in the repair guides seem silky smooth compared to the one that I applied.


8

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I've looked into potentially using that very same grease - thanks for the warning on this stuff - looks like I'll have to avoid it in the future.

Lightshow said:

For anyone who thinks that I put the lens together badly. Here's a screenshot of the sellers listing.


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"lens doesn't seem to be well assembled..." Well he got that right :-(

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This would have been the sign for me to avoid this lens.

Same with "glass conditions, please refer to pictures " the picture had better be awesome or I'll pass, they are either being lazy or trying to hide stuff, I've seen a few auctions where they just barely show an issue in the picture, and the IQ sucks which make it hard to spot issues unless it's pointed out to you.

I seen one auction where the item was broken and missing a piece, but they staged the picture so as to make it look complete if you don't look too closely, and to top it off, the starting bid is high, at the same level as unbroken items in VG condition.

I've been had by a less than optimum pictures that had the issue way off in the corner of one picture and a large paragraph explaining it's wonderful condition and buried near the end of the paragraph is "hing broken" (like in my reply here) if you miss it, you're screwed.

Images should clearly show any damage, period. If

Lightshow said:

Yeah your right. I wonder if I could clone it with a apoxy mold, and melt some solder wire. Perhaps I could 3D print it in metal.

Your theory on it evening out might be correct. If it is than the previous owner didn't tighten the screws properly.

The grease might perform better if I added some oil to it. I rather just buy some grease that's made specifically for the helicoid. I think I saw one on Amazon for $11.00

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No, don't add oil to it, it will likely never stay mixed in.

This is the grease I will be recommending for most users attempting to regrease a helicoid for the first time, its consistency is between whipped butter and vegetable shortening, most other greases over time will have some amount of oil come out of suspension, I've had my container for 3 years I think and there isn't a hint of any oil coming out, which sounds good to me for longevity in the lens.

The grease in question? Helimax XP https://www.ebay.com/itm/HELIMAX-XP...-Focusing-Helicoid-Grease-w-PTFE/271194713421

--
A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
[My Lens list](http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow)
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????

https://flic.kr/p/Q2b9mq

https://flic.kr/p/PgwEjs

Firmware request:
-A button map for toggling the EVF & LCD
-Still waiting for the minimum shutter speed with auto ISO for my NEX-7 and A7r. I know it will never happen.
-Customize the display screen layout, I'd love to have both Histogram and level at the same time.
-More peaking options, being able to set peaking sensitivity and a threshold level.
-An RGB overlay on the histogram

https://flic.kr/p/wQd7zp

-An option to return the focus assist zoom to one button press
-An option to return to how the NEX-7 handled playback, ie. center button to zoom, then you could use the control dial to zoom in and out, then center button to exit the zoom mode.

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I've had my fair share of dishonest Ebay sellers. I dislike Ebay's terrible photo compression. Try pixel peeping a photo, and you will see what I mean. I also dislike when they hide the serial number. They take photos of the lens body, and not show the optics. They have the aperture fully stopped down, and never show it wide open. When they refuse to show the optics under a flash light. When they say refer to the photos. "What you see is what you get" When they don't provide any meaningful information about the lens. When they overcharge for shipping. Than when I actually get the lens it was packaged poorly. When they say the focusing is slighyly stiff, but it's really overly stiff. I could go on, but you get it.

That grease is the one I saw on Amazon that I have been wanting to try. Thanks for the recommendation.

Side note I'm thinking of picking up a 13 bladed Helios 44. Kind of torn because for the same price I could get the Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar Lens 58mm f/2 M42 12 blades Red T. I'm curious which would be the better lens. I know they have a 17 bladed version of the Biotar which has the best bokeh as far as the circular highlights remaining uniformly round throughout all apertures. Than there is the modded Helios 44 with 16 aperture blades. I'm sure the build quality would be better on the Biotar than a KMZ Helios.