Lens Hood on Tele ?

Lens Hood on Tele ?


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There's no good reason (that I can think of) not to use a lens hood on every, single lens you own. Depending on your position with respect to the sun, time of day, etc, a hood will reduce glare and flare, as well as protect the lens, and it can definitely help increase contrast. I was walking on the beach a few years ago with a body and 70-200 on a strap over my shoulder; somehow the lens release was pushed and over time the lens worked it's way out and hit the rocky beach, right at the front, and at about a 45 degree angle (where no "protection" filter would have done anything). The polycarbonate lens hood cracked, but the lens didn't have a mark on it. Without the hood I am certain that at best, I would have been facing a LARGE repair bill, and worst, a $2500 lens would have become a paper-weight in a heartbeat.
 
I am using a Canon 100-400mm Mk1, without a hood. I bought it used and it came without the hood. I often get my photo rejected at www.jettphotos rejected due to low contrast. Does adding a lens hood will help with contrast or not?

My accepted photos can be found here. https://www.jetphotos.com/photographer/31140
A lens hood decreases flare, increases contrast and provides terrific impact protection. Depending on circumstances, especially when shooting near a bright light source (the sun, spotlights, even fluorescent lights sneaking into the edge of the frame) the lens hood can help block light from scattering inside the lens barrel and creating flare.
 
There's no good reason (that I can think of) not to use a lens hood on every, single lens you own. Depending on your position with respect to the sun, time of day, etc, a hood will reduce glare and flare, as well as protect the lens, and it can definitely help increase contrast. I was walking on the beach a few years ago with a body and 70-200 on a strap over my shoulder; somehow the lens release was pushed and over time the lens worked it's way out and hit the rocky beach, right at the front, and at about a 45 degree angle (where no "protection" filter would have done anything). The polycarbonate lens hood cracked, but the lens didn't have a mark on it. Without the hood I am certain that at best, I would have been facing a LARGE repair bill, and worst, a $2500 lens would have become a paper-weight in a heartbeat.
I had almost the exact same thing happen to me. I was walking along a sidewalk and my camera with a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II slipped off my shoulder and smashed into the concrete. The lens hood split, but the camera and lens were completely undamaged.
 
Is this a good enough or should I look for original one in the used market? https://www.daraz.pk/products/heavy...canon-et-83c-i128152600-s1287123393.html?mp=1
A lens hood is not something that will give better results if you use the original or a 3rd party. The real concern is whether the image will vignette at the minimum FL end.

I find myself using the rubber lens hoods that can be rolled out or in as needed. I bought a number of sizes and they just screw into the filter threads. If I get vignetting when rolled out, I just roll it back.

An example. They come in all tread sizes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/58mm-Pro-S...718908?hash=item4ae3c1f43c:g:kNYAAOSwa39UwSTy
 
I am using a Canon 100-400mm Mk1, without a hood. I bought it used and it came without the hood. I often get my photo rejected at www.jettphotos rejected due to low contrast. Does adding a lens hood will help with contrast or not?

My accepted photos can be found here. https://www.jetphotos.com/photographer/31140
I always get better results with a lens hood. I'm always outdoors.I have a few lenses that are useless without them. I like the reversible bayonet type best. I have no excuse not to use them, even with filters.
 
Is this a good enough or should I look for original one in the used market? https://www.daraz.pk/products/heavy...canon-et-83c-i128152600-s1287123393.html?mp=1
A lens hood is not something that will give better results if you use the original or a 3rd party. The real concern is whether the image will vignette at the minimum FL end.

I find myself using the rubber lens hoods that can be rolled out or in as needed. I bought a number of sizes and they just screw into the filter threads. If I get vignetting when rolled out, I just roll it back.

An example. They come in all tread sizes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/58mm-Pro-S...718908?hash=item4ae3c1f43c:g:kNYAAOSwa39UwSTy
Buying OE will ensure that the hood is optimized for your lens. You'll notice that most hoods, especially on tele-zooms have a 'petal' shape; if the 3rd party has the identical shape, fine but if it's generic, you may run into vignetting, etc.
 
It is the right shape, but who knows if it will fit right. The lens hood on your lens is a bayonet style which rotates then locks into place with a sort of a detent. I am not familiar with this brand so can't tell from the description if it will lock into place securely. You can always get a rubber screw in lens hood for the 100-400, but it won't provide the amount of coverage that the cylindrical OEM-style hood does.
 
Is this a good enough or should I look for original one in the used market? https://www.daraz.pk/products/heavy...canon-et-83c-i128152600-s1287123393.html?mp=1
A lens hood is not something that will give better results if you use the original or a 3rd party. The real concern is whether the image will vignette at the minimum FL end.

I find myself using the rubber lens hoods that can be rolled out or in as needed. I bought a number of sizes and they just screw into the filter threads. If I get vignetting when rolled out, I just roll it back.

An example. They come in all tread sizes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/58mm-Pro-S...718908?hash=item4ae3c1f43c:g:kNYAAOSwa39UwSTy
Buying OE will ensure that the hood is optimized for your lens. You'll notice that most hoods, especially on tele-zooms have a 'petal' shape; if the 3rd party has the identical shape, fine but if it's generic, you may run into vignetting, etc.
All of the telephoto zoom lenses that I have owned (about eight, including a Canon 100-400mm MkI) have had normal cylindrical hoods. It has been the shorter focal length zooms that go to wide angles that have had petal shaped hoods.



This is what the Canon hood for the 100-400mm MkII looks like:

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/canon-et-83d-lens-hood-for-ef100-400-f45-56lis-ii-usm-1570796/? mkwid=s9jlMfwfV_dc&pcrid=324753634971&kword=&match=&plid=&product=1570796&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz-b69JCP6wIVk-5RCh0AbQbeEAQYAyABEgIA6_D_BwE

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Chris R
 
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There's no good reason (that I can think of) not to use a lens hood on every, single lens you own. Depending on your position with respect to the sun, time of day, etc, a hood will reduce glare and flare, as well as protect the lens, and it can definitely help increase contrast. I was walking on the beach a few years ago with a body and 70-200 on a strap over my shoulder; somehow the lens release was pushed and over time the lens worked it's way out and hit the rocky beach, right at the front, and at about a 45 degree angle (where no "protection" filter would have done anything). The polycarbonate lens hood cracked, but the lens didn't have a mark on it. Without the hood I am certain that at best, I would have been facing a LARGE repair bill, and worst, a $2500 lens would have become a paper-weight in a heartbeat.
I would send it in and have it checked I thought my 100-400 was good after it fell off my black rapid strap it took a couple of outings for me to notice the AF hit rate with that lens was off. Had to have the AF lens group and IS replaced total cost 700.00 the lens did not have a scratch on it but the shock of hitting the ground still messed it up.
 
It is a copy of the Canon and it is custom made for your lens, so yes it will work.

There are two points is one difference.

1) it screws on to the filter thread. If by any chance you drop the lens it may damage the thread possibly more that the canon bayonette type would (unlikely...)

2) the Canon hood has an opening at the base so that you can rotate a PL filter with the hood in use.

With the one in your link you would need to rotate the hood.

Do you plan to buy a PL ? If not , it does not matter.

I had another look at the accessory one, it looks like it does have a bayonet fitting...
 
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It is a copy of the Canon and it is custom made for your lens, so yes it will work.

There are two points is one difference.

1) it screws on to the filter thread. If by any chance you drop the lens it may damage the thread possibly more that the canon bayonette type would (unlikely...)

2) the Canon hood has an opening at the base so that you can rotate a PL filter with the hood in use.

With the one in your link you would need to rotate the hood.

Do you plan to buy a PL ? If not , it does not matter.

I had another look at the accessory one, it looks like it does have a bayonet fitting...
Actually, no, the first generation 100-400 lens hood did not have a hole in it to adjust a filter.
 
It is a copy of the Canon and it is custom made for your lens, so yes it will work.

There are two points is one difference.

1) it screws on to the filter thread. If by any chance you drop the lens it may damage the thread possibly more that the canon bayonette type would (unlikely...)

2) the Canon hood has an opening at the base so that you can rotate a PL filter with the hood in use.

With the one in your link you would need to rotate the hood.

Do you plan to buy a PL ? If not , it does not matter.

I had another look at the accessory one, it looks like it does have a bayonet fitting...
Actually, no, the first generation 100-400 lens hood did not have a hole in it to adjust a filter.
I was comparing it to the latest version , the Canon ET 83 D



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Cylinder or petals usually depends on lens rotation on the front. Also, China makes all sorts of clones, including newest filter rotation access.
 
I am using a Canon 100-400mm Mk1, without a hood. I bought it used and it came without the hood. I often get my photo rejected at www.jettphotos rejected due to low contrast. Does adding a lens hood will help with contrast or not?

My accepted photos can be found here. https://www.jetphotos.com/photographer/31140
I never shoot this lens w/o the lens hood! For one, yes it will increase contrast. The element is out front with no shade whatsoever so any extraneous light hitting it will reduce contrast and potentially cause flare.

Speaking of the front element being out in front, the hood will also do a fantastic job of protecting it. I never use a "protection" filter on this lens; the hood is nice & deep and I've never had a problem with not using a clear filter.

Mark
 
Is this a good enough or should I look for original one in the used market? https://www.daraz.pk/products/heavy...canon-et-83c-i128152600-s1287123393.html?mp=1
A lens hood is not something that will give better results if you use the original or a 3rd party. The real concern is whether the image will vignette at the minimum FL end.

I find myself using the rubber lens hoods that can be rolled out or in as needed. I bought a number of sizes and they just screw into the filter threads. If I get vignetting when rolled out, I just roll it back.

An example. They come in all tread sizes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/58mm-Pro-S...718908?hash=item4ae3c1f43c:g:kNYAAOSwa39UwSTy
Buying OE will ensure that the hood is optimized for your lens. You'll notice that most hoods, especially on tele-zooms have a 'petal' shape; if the 3rd party has the identical shape, fine but if it's generic, you may run into vignetting, etc.
+1. Not to mention a rubber hood will do nothing to protect the lens from a bump or, worse, a drop. I speak from experience, having dropped a mounted 80-400mm lens mounted lens-first onto asphalt. The plastic hood took the impact, absorbed it, and no damage to the lens at all. One of the mounting ribs on the hood was chipped, but it still mounted and all was good. I can imagine with a collapsible rubber hood the impact would have been directed directly through the lens and I would not have been so lucky.

Mark
 
All of the telephoto zoom lenses that I have owned (about eight, including a Canon 100-400mm MkI) have had normal cylindrical hoods. It has been the shorter focal length zooms that go to wide angles that have had petal shaped hoods.
Interesting, maybe it's a Nikon thing. The 70-200 has a very pronounced 'petal' design, as does their 70-300 .
 
All of the telephoto zoom lenses that I have owned (about eight, including a Canon 100-400mm MkI) have had normal cylindrical hoods. It has been the shorter focal length zooms that go to wide angles that have had petal shaped hoods.
Interesting, maybe it's a Nikon thing. The 70-200 has a very pronounced 'petal' design, as does their 70-300 .
so do the Sony in the similar range, the same for the Canon 70-200mm . I think it has to do with the 70mm start.
 
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A hood will make a difference in some conditions, especially when the sun is high or when shooting into the sun.

Looking at your photos and subject matter, I'm thinking some of your problem may be atmospheric haze. You could somewhat overcome that in processing your files.

Gato
 

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