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after using the 300d what do you miss the most?
- Thread starter Daniella68313
- Start date
Juan Trujillo
Forum Enthusiast
- Ability to void the preflash in manual mode
- ISO in viewfinder
- They could use the left/right arrow to change some settings as do the up/down without goint into menu. For me one to swap to RAW. Another uh... ah! Custom white balance measure and seting (you point to a white region push it, the cam measures and sets custom WB. Credit for the idea to the Minolta A1)
PS: I also mis the Electronic viewfinder with histogram and exposure preview! (but must say I love the quality of the optic viewfinder)
Juan Trujillo
Forum Enthusiast
I'm tempted too, how much?10 secs on the 300D was just way too long for me to wait when doing
low light photography on a tripod
So I had to go out and buy the RS-60E3 remote (good purchase too I
think
Daniella68313
Forum Pro
this option to get the white balance reading from a white region or a card is available on the 300D. check the manual. I tried it and it take some step but once it is set for the lighting conditions, it quick to switch to it.
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Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com
c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
Daniella68313
Forum Pro
--I'm tempted too, how much?10 secs on the 300D was just way too long for me to wait when doing
low light photography on a tripod
So I had to go out and buy the RS-60E3 remote (good purchase too I
think
Daniella
main gallery: http://www.infrareddream.com
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO FORUM: http://www.c700uz.com
c7OOuz, Dimage-7, Tcon14tele, C210tele, Cokin-173, Grad-ND, Hoya-red-Intensifier, Hoya_R_72.
Richard Bolt
Leading Member
I got mine off Ebay - but I think it sells for around US$24.95
A quick search on google will find you any number of places that sell it
Good luck
davidadner
Forum Enthusiast
Ok, I read your note on how missing the EVF isn't exactly a firmware upgrade... But I'll say it anyway! ;> Yeah, I know, it sucks for night time shots and has horrible tracking capabilities, but I miss the amount of info it displayed. I don't understand why the optical viewfinder doesn't at least include the ISO and WB. I would have sacrificed the "number of continuous shots available buffer" number for ISO/WB.
For a firmware upgradable wish list:
1. Increase the amount of time the viewfinder displays what info it does display.
2. When rolling the little dial near the shutter button to change ISO, shutter, aperature, WB, etc, I want it to activate the viewfinder's display. Having to constantly pull away to view the LCD or half-pressing the shutter just to see what settings I'm changing is a pain that could have been easily avoided.
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http://www.pbase.com/nimbus (supporter)
Olympus C700UZ, B-Macro, TCON14, TCON17, C-180
Canon 300D, EF-S 18-55
For a firmware upgradable wish list:
1. Increase the amount of time the viewfinder displays what info it does display.
2. When rolling the little dial near the shutter button to change ISO, shutter, aperature, WB, etc, I want it to activate the viewfinder's display. Having to constantly pull away to view the LCD or half-pressing the shutter just to see what settings I'm changing is a pain that could have been easily avoided.
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http://www.pbase.com/nimbus (supporter)
Olympus C700UZ, B-Macro, TCON14, TCON17, C-180
Canon 300D, EF-S 18-55
Louis de Carufel
Member
Sometimes I want to take pictures with long exposure times and I use the timer to avoid camera shake while pressing the shutter button. The thing is, 10 seconds is waaaaay to long, I would have liked to have an option to select a shorter delay time, say 2 seconds.
Louis
Louis
This is it, otherwise the camera is excellent, this one just drives me crazy. Enable all focus points to get good metering, but have to focus multiple times to get focus where you want it, or single AF point and have to exposure lock appropriately to get exposure correct. I don't think it is hard to change in the firmware , but they probably won't do it anyway.
kris
kris
dchao
Veteran Member
You can always select the active focus point manually. This way, the metering is evaluative based on the active AF point, so you do not have to worry about finding a good target for AE-Lock.
But I am a lazy photographer, so all I want to do is concentrate on picture taking. So what I do is to select the center AF point (most accurate), half-press the shutter release, and then recompose the frame. This will get exposure right 90% of the time, the rest 10% can be easy checked & corrected with histogram review.
But I am a lazy photographer, so all I want to do is concentrate on picture taking. So what I do is to select the center AF point (most accurate), half-press the shutter release, and then recompose the frame. This will get exposure right 90% of the time, the rest 10% can be easy checked & corrected with histogram review.
Juan Trujillo
Forum Enthusiast
Yes, noticed it. Just missing the style of the Dimage 7i where you could do almost everything with the eye sticked to the viewfinder
Juan
Juan
Juan Trujillo
Forum Enthusiast
Juan Trujillo
Forum Enthusiast
I have to confirm it experimenting more but it seems that RAW may be very good to recover underexposed shadows: With the Canon FileViewer you can change the exposure compensation up to 2 stops. Merging the non compensated image for the highlights with the compensated one for shadows gives you an increase in latitude of two stops.
I've tried with a pair of images with almost black shadows and it seems to work quite well (I am not sure if the same effect could be achieved opening the same image directly in photoshop and aplying curves, the RAW conversion seems to give a more natural result at first glance)
Juan
I've tried with a pair of images with almost black shadows and it seems to work quite well (I am not sure if the same effect could be achieved opening the same image directly in photoshop and aplying curves, the RAW conversion seems to give a more natural result at first glance)
Juan
Lexx
Active member
It's even in G3.
I used Canon S50 and Sony F717. I like the optical viewfinder on Digital Rebel rather than the electronic versions for composing photos.
faiz
faiz
Gadget Man
Leading Member
I wish there was an internal intervometer, my Epson 850Z had one and it was great. Having to use a computer for this function is crazy. A microphone would be nice to put some audio comments tagged to the picture.
You're explaination is correct, of course, but still a manufacturer could offer a display viewfinder option for a mirror DSLR.
The trick would be:
A button to switch from normal SLR mode to EVF mode.
In EVF mode, the mirror swings upwards and locks, thus the light reaches the sensor, and the live image can be shown on the display.
The problem is that DSLRs use separate sensors for AF and metering, which would not work in EVF mode. Still, some less than perfect AF and metering could be implemented using the image sensor, like in consumer digicams (well, Canon has such software in house anyways from their consumer cams). It would not need to be perfect, just good enought for the EVF display. Then, if you press the shutter, the mirror could come back for full AF and metering, and the cam would shoot with some additional shutter lag.
Not perfect, but much better than nothing for special situations. I am sure professional journalists would love this feature eg. for over-the-heads shots.
Canon, read this!!! It's a unique selling point that just requires some additional firmware, no increased production costs (well, one button).
BeeJee
dohdoh
Senior Member
Agreed... I haven't been using SLR cameras long at all, but even using a 10D for about 2 weeks and even having consumer digital cameras w/ spot metering, it is very missed.
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dohdoh
http://www.pbase.com/dohdoh
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dohdoh
http://www.pbase.com/dohdoh
I guess I am also lazy, I've been doing the same, using the center AF point to focus, recompose and shoot, but I'd have to say my percentage of correct exposure is below 90% more like 70%. Maybe I've just been unlucky in where I was shooting (time of day/sun-shade contrast), but I've had quite a few blown skies and backgrounds. Percentage will get better as I learn to better recognize the problematic scenes and make adjustments.
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