tjkoko
Senior Member
Hiking in a wilderness setting, what about using a photographer's back pack?
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what light weight 50mm lens will you put on D850?
- Thread starter MyRTSIII
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MyRTSIII
Leading Member
I no longer own the 50/1.8 (4.5 stars with price performance in mind), my son stole it from me.
Currently, exploring an alternative 50mm which will do better than the 50/1.8
Getting a z mount 50mm is another thought but I have not decided to jump into Nikon mirrorless "yet". Happy with D850, just hope that I will carry it more with me.
Not for serious hiking, for that, I will bring SONY A9/A7 with me. Even for "walkaround", I'm talking about 5-10 miles of walk, weight does matter to me!!
Currently, exploring an alternative 50mm which will do better than the 50/1.8
Getting a z mount 50mm is another thought but I have not decided to jump into Nikon mirrorless "yet". Happy with D850, just hope that I will carry it more with me.
Not for serious hiking, for that, I will bring SONY A9/A7 with me. Even for "walkaround", I'm talking about 5-10 miles of walk, weight does matter to me!!
JimResnikoff
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There comes a point where you have to make a choice, be it weight, optical clarity, convenience, and situational needs. There will always be compromises to make. Only you can decide which aspect wins. I personally hump around the weight of the gear I own so that I can capture the best images I can given the gear I have. Sure, I don't use every piece of equipment on every outing I do, but at least I know I was as best prepared for whatever could present itself.
Karl Huber
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My thoughts, exactly.
larrywilson
Veteran Member
Zeiss Milvus 50mm f2.0 zf.2 lens. A lot has been said about using light lenses on the d850 camera which in a way does not make total sense. I use lenses that produce excellent images, do consider weight, but image quality is priority. I'm old but try to keep in good physical shape to where I am not handicapped.
Larry
LoneTree1
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Best way to stay with a heavy camera set-up is to never even try a light one. If you do and go back to the heavy one, then you really notice the difference.
David5833
Senior Member
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Leonard Shepherd
Forum Pro
One detail to consider with this type of 45 degree test is that although AF should vertically detect the fairly thin horizontal darker line - the vertical AF detection line usually reaches beyond the boundary of the thickness of the horizontal line.
One reason for having an AF test subject parallel to the sensor is that starting AF from infinity the "target" can be detected before it is located in the centre of the AF detector - indicating some back focus that would not happen if the target was parallel to the sensor.
Similarly when starting AF from minimum focus with a target at 45 degrees some front focus can be indicated that would not happen with the target parallel to the sensor.
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Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is much more about how equipment is used rather than anything else.
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David5833
Senior Member
The purpose of the comparison was not to assess AF accurracy, it was to show that the sharpest plane of focus is relatively soft at f/1.8 and that it was not because of focus accuracy. The slot you see on the left side of the target is where I put a vertical target when I am testing focus accuracy. However, when I have compared this slanted target that I adapted for macro lenses, with and without the vertical target, the results have been essentially identical. The targets are rather small so this is really a good system only for close focus distances.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/143821723@N06/
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PHXAZCRAIG
Forum Pro
Not quite sure what you are getting at, but for me the 50f1.4g can absolutely nail the focus and still be soft at F1.4. In fact it's pretty much always soft wide open when you think about it - in focus or not! And it has pretty significant CA also.
Unlike many modern lenses, the 50f1.4g has clearly visible flaws, and one needs to work around them. IF you do this, the 50f1.4g is a fine lens - just limited.
How does one know that a lens is soft wide open and not so much stopped down? By shooting pictures with it at all f-stops and looking! It's quite easy to see the plane of focus at F1.4, and it's quite easy thus to tell if an image is in focus. Simply stopping down (and refocusing if needed) will show a dramatic difference in sharpness. It's not a matter of focus accuracy here.
Unlike many modern lenses, the 50f1.4g has clearly visible flaws, and one needs to work around them. IF you do this, the 50f1.4g is a fine lens - just limited.
How does one know that a lens is soft wide open and not so much stopped down? By shooting pictures with it at all f-stops and looking! It's quite easy to see the plane of focus at F1.4, and it's quite easy thus to tell if an image is in focus. Simply stopping down (and refocusing if needed) will show a dramatic difference in sharpness. It's not a matter of focus accuracy here.
PHXAZCRAIG
Forum Pro
That may be true for cameras, but it's not for lenses. May be true for the first few lenses one buys, but eventually, if you keep buying lenses, you tend to wind up with every lens being a 'specialty use' lens. Let's say you have a 70-200 F4 and a 70-200 F2.8. You would use them for different purposes. Have a zoom and a collection of primes for the same range? Bet you would use the primes in one situation and the zoom in another. Going hiking a lot? Probably bought the camera with that in mind.
My daughter (non-photographer) needed a better camera for an upcoming hike two summers ago. She bought an iphone. Anything bigger was simply too heavy. Her hike: Pacific Crest Trail, Mexico to Canada, 143 days, solo.
primeshooter
Veteran Member
I have a 70-200 2.8. I use it for work where I take the car to and walk about with it. I also climb up mountains with it. I use that 2.8 aperture. I wouldn't give it up for the f/4 despite the weight because that 2.8 really matters, it's all priorities of what you need the equipment to do. But I might be less likely to lug a 50mm lens that weights the same as a boat anchor around when I am stopping down to f8 anyway, and as you say, can use the perfectly sharp (at that aperture) 1.4G right?
larrywilson
Veteran Member
When it comes down to it, due to the lack of depth at an f1.4 there's very few situations that you need an f1.4. Hardly any lens will be at its best wide open. I chose a Zeiss 50mm lens with an f2.0 aperture and a Tamron 45mm with an f1.8 aperture and I am not missing a thing. Most 50mm lenses aren't that heavy.
Larry
tjkoko
Senior Member
I'm on the fence with swapping my Nikon 50mm for either the Zeiss Otus or Milvus. But, BUT I certainly like the AF that Nikon offers and the setup is my first slr. Sooooo I kinda' don't know what to think. Your thoughts, please, on getting an MF quality lens.
Leonard Shepherd
Forum Pro
This is not always so - though likely with a lightweight F mount lens - but the 50mm Z does not fit onto an F mount body.
Neither lightweight nor exactly leightweight - but bigger and heavier ML can be stunning at f2
Nikon Nikkor Z 58mm f/0.95 S Noct Lens Review
John Riley reviews the ultra-bright, Nikkor 58mm f/0.95 Noct lens from Nikon for full-frame Z-mount mirrorless cameras.
www.ephotozine.com
David5833
Senior Member
The question I was addressing was about my Nikon 50mm f/1.8G lens, not about all lenses.
larrywilson
Veteran Member
If you want to shoot any moving subjects, then probably auto focus is best. That's why I have the Tamron 45mm f1.8 lens. A manual focus lens is best used at live view to get the focus on the money most of the time. The digital cameras just don't have the excellent screens that the old film cameras had for manual focusing.
richiebee
Senior Member
I have the 50 f/1.4G and 50 f/1.8G. I wouldn't get the 1.4 again. In fact, I'd save up and get the Sigma, because neither are great. However, I think the f/1.8 is usable at f/1.8, and the f/1.4 isn't usable until f/1.8. So its a wash, but you pay a lot more for the f/1.4.
Hi,
I have an 850 and I use a 50 1.4 AFD all the time. I'm happy with it even though I'm doing it all wrong. (I'm a D series lens zealot!)
From full body shots, I get headshot crops I like with sharp lashes, pores, etc. Not consistently because of my technique, lens limitation, latitude/longitude, will of the gods.
It gives neat sunstars/starbursts. It's light and will outlast us all.
If you are shooting with a group of pointed lights at 1-2 o'clock in the frame, you might see those points of light at 5-4 o'clock. The g version might have better coatings to minimize this.
I shoot bands in lousy lit bars at 2.2 to 2.5 and am happy with it. If I drop it / lose it, I won't cry.
I consider the 1.4 just a mark on the dial, I wouldn't use it. Maybe I'm just not that good.
Shoot pray love, etc.
Enjoy!
vsk
I have an 850 and I use a 50 1.4 AFD all the time. I'm happy with it even though I'm doing it all wrong. (I'm a D series lens zealot!)
From full body shots, I get headshot crops I like with sharp lashes, pores, etc. Not consistently because of my technique, lens limitation, latitude/longitude, will of the gods.
It gives neat sunstars/starbursts. It's light and will outlast us all.
If you are shooting with a group of pointed lights at 1-2 o'clock in the frame, you might see those points of light at 5-4 o'clock. The g version might have better coatings to minimize this.
I shoot bands in lousy lit bars at 2.2 to 2.5 and am happy with it. If I drop it / lose it, I won't cry.
I consider the 1.4 just a mark on the dial, I wouldn't use it. Maybe I'm just not that good.
Shoot pray love, etc.
Enjoy!
vsk
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