agentul

Leading Member
Messages
619
Solutions
1
Reaction score
343
I have been thinking of buying the legendary Panasonic 14-45mm for years now. I actually ordered it (used, for $180) from Amazon a few days ago, but I had serious second thoughts and decided to cancel the order today. I already have the 14-42mm that came with my GH2. I know the image quality is not as good, but after re-visiting some old threads, it seems like it's close enough to not warrant the upgrade. I also gave up on the 12-32mm, since it apparently exhibits shutter shock at 32mm under certain conditions, and my GH2 does not have an electronic shutter option. So I'd rather try to save the money for the 15mm f1.7 - maybe it will come down closer to $500 in October.

Now, one of the main reasons that I wanted the 14-45mm for was smooth zoom action. The 14-42 is very jerky, and it's a problem when shooting video (although motorized zoom would be ideal). I was wondering if there was a way to approach the smoothness of the 45-150mm by lubricating the outside of the zoom cylinder with a little WD40 to help it glide better. Is there any risk at all of the lubricant getting into the optical elements? I realize that it's not a weather sealed lens, but lubricants do adhere to the surface they are applied on, so I'm hoping that it wouldn't start spreading on the inside.

My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.

Has anyone else tried something similar? Is there a chance of screwing this up and destroying the lens?
 
Solution
After you "repair" the old lens, just get a 14-42mm II. You'll need it. ;-)
nope, already debated this years ago in another thread. i'd rather have the 14-45mm if i were to get a replacement. of course, if there's a miraculous sale on the 12-35 f2.8, i could be persuaded to reconsider.

i've decided to just leave it alone and not mess around with it. i have a history of "repairing" things.
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
 
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
 
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
My exposure comp dial is stiff and I'd love to loosen it myself instead of paying 150€ and being without my camera for a few weeks. Glad I found this before using classic WD40. But what about this product?

https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/

Silicone lubricant by WD40. Seems designed for this sort of use.
 
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
My exposure comp dial is stiff and I'd love to loosen it myself instead of paying 150€ and being without my camera for a few weeks. Glad I found this before using classic WD40. But what about this product?

https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/

Silicone lubricant by WD40. Seems designed for this sort of use.
...albeit, I have never used this particular product before....actually this is the first I heard of it ;). Still, this is a lubricant, and unless I'm wrong, your dial is stiff, which would indicate either there is a 1) mechanical problem (breakage, crack, slippage, etc.) or 2) it's already gunked up with dirt. If either is true, I don't think that lubricant would help. Actually regular WD40 would be of more use in this case, and NO, I'm not saying use regular WD40.

My guess is that the dial is gunked up which would mean you have 3 options. 1) take off the top plate (assuming there is one, which camera are you having problems with?) or 2) blow compressed air and pray that it would dislodge whatever is gunking up the dial (truthfully I see little hope that this would work) or 3) Use some rubbing alcohol to try to clean the dial up. Rubbing alcohol, assuming it's pure or close to pure, would evaporate very quickly and is pretty good at cleaning, so as long as it doesn't get to the optics it'll be just fine even on electronics. Just make sure you take out the battery before doing anything. Pour a little (you don't want to make pools inside the camera) into the dial and start moving the dial back and forth. Repeat. With a few tries hopefully, the dial would start moving more freely. Let it be for a bit to let the alcohol evaporate. If rubbing alcohol just doesn't work, well, there is option 1 which honestly, most likely isn't that bad. See if your camera is listed on iFixit, in which case you would get a good idea of how easy/difficult the job would be. If you can't find it on iFixit, the best bet is to find the cameras' service manual. You'll probably find it either free or buy for a small price (say $10USD).

I personally fixed a number of gunked up dials, including the Ricoh GRD (original) and I think the Ricoh GR as well by the rubbing alcohol method.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and good luck :)

Cheers,

Hubert

--
Hubert
My non-digital gear: Agfa Isolette, Ricohflex VII, Bessa R, Bessa L, Zorky 4, Fed 2, Konica Big Mini, Konica Auto S2, K1000, Yashica Electro 35 GX, Recesky
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2034/2457111090_00eafbf8a4_m.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peppermonkey/
 
Last edited:
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
My exposure comp dial is stiff and I'd love to loosen it myself instead of paying 150€ and being without my camera for a few weeks. Glad I found this before using classic WD40. But what about this product?

https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/

Silicone lubricant by WD40. Seems designed for this sort of use.
...albeit, I have never used this particular product before....actually this is the first I heard of it ;). Still, this is a lubricant, and unless I'm wrong, your dial is stiff, which would indicate either there is a 1) mechanical problem (breakage, crack, slippage, etc.) or 2) it's already gunked up with dirt. If either is true, I don't think that lubricant would help. Actually regular WD40 would be of more use in this case, and NO, I'm not saying use regular WD40.
Thanks for this response! Hm, ok maybe the problem is more serious than I hoped for.
My guess is that the dial is gunked up which would mean you have 3 options. 1) take off the top plate (assuming there is one, which camera are you having problems with?)
I have the GX9. I actually sent it to Panasonic and indeed they suggested replacing the top plate - $40 parts, $120 repair. I decided at the time it wasn't worth it, but maybe it was. In any case, with travels coming up, I don't have time to send it in again right now.
or 2) blow compressed air and pray that it would dislodge whatever is gunking up the dial (truthfully I see little hope that this would work)
I did buy some compressed air to try it, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
or 3) Use some rubbing alcohol to try to clean the dial up. Rubbing alcohol, assuming it's pure or close to pure, would evaporate very quickly and is pretty good at cleaning, so as long as it doesn't get to the optics it'll be just fine even on electronics. Just make sure you take out the battery before doing anything. Pour a little (you don't want to make pools inside the camera) into the dial and start moving the dial back and forth. Repeat. With a few tries hopefully, the dial would start moving more freely. Let it be for a bit to let the alcohol evaporate.
I also bought rubbing alcohol as well, but I bought the wrong one - only %70 pure. I didn't pour it on the dial though.
If rubbing alcohol just doesn't work, well, there is option 1 which honestly, most likely isn't that bad. See if your camera is listed on iFixit, in which case you would get a good idea of how easy/difficult the job would be. If you can't find it on iFixit, the best bet is to find the cameras' service manual. You'll probably find it either free or buy for a small price (say $10USD).
The GX9 isn't on iFixit, but the GX85 is: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Panasonic+Lumix+GX80-85+Teardown/121269

But this only covers getting to the sensor.. It does look pretty straightforward to unscrew things and tinker around... I'm wondering if I'm up for that challenge, or if I'll do further harm.

I worry that the dial is stiff because I've dropped the camera before, and the plastics/metals are contorted. Is there any hope if that's the case?
I personally fixed a number of gunked up dials, including the Ricoh GRD (original) and I think the Ricoh GR as well by the rubbing alcohol method.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and good luck :)

Cheers,

Hubert
Thanks Hubert. Do you think it's safe enough to proceed with the screws to take a look? I guess I need to get the higher concentrate isopropyl alcohol first.

I would love to solve this quickly, before going to the tropics for the holidays. Sending to Panasonic risks my camera not being back in time, so I might have to just sweat it out until the new year. The camera does operate normally otherwise.

Keith
 
My 100-300mm is very sticky zooming but works quite smoothly with a rubber band. It balances the gravity and friction of the moving barrel and it moves steady and smooth during video, especially backwards, almost itself.

2afd225dbc1e455e978cff0d7352d17b.jpg
OMG ha ha

--
Keep it fun!
 
My 100-300mm is very sticky zooming but works quite smoothly with a rubber band. It balances the gravity and friction of the moving barrel and it moves steady and smooth during video, especially backwards, almost itself.

2afd225dbc1e455e978cff0d7352d17b.jpg
OMG ha ha
Jeeze, that’s downright Frankenstein-ian!

Here’s my 100-300mm with a LensBand. They’re a little easier to manage… and NO drilling!



38724d0330cb4caf99c5a8c9cd9fb3ac.jpg
 
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
My exposure comp dial is stiff and I'd love to loosen it myself instead of paying 150€ and being without my camera for a few weeks. Glad I found this before using classic WD40. But what about this product?

https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/

Silicone lubricant by WD40. Seems designed for this sort of use.
...albeit, I have never used this particular product before....actually this is the first I heard of it ;). Still, this is a lubricant, and unless I'm wrong, your dial is stiff, which would indicate either there is a 1) mechanical problem (breakage, crack, slippage, etc.) or 2) it's already gunked up with dirt. If either is true, I don't think that lubricant would help. Actually regular WD40 would be of more use in this case, and NO, I'm not saying use regular WD40.
Thanks for this response! Hm, ok maybe the problem is more serious than I hoped for.
My guess is that the dial is gunked up which would mean you have 3 options. 1) take off the top plate (assuming there is one, which camera are you having problems with?)
I have the GX9. I actually sent it to Panasonic and indeed they suggested replacing the top plate - $40 parts, $120 repair. I decided at the time it wasn't worth it, but maybe it was. In any case, with travels coming up, I don't have time to send it in again right now.
or 2) blow compressed air and pray that it would dislodge whatever is gunking up the dial (truthfully I see little hope that this would work)
I did buy some compressed air to try it, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
or 3) Use some rubbing alcohol to try to clean the dial up. Rubbing alcohol, assuming it's pure or close to pure, would evaporate very quickly and is pretty good at cleaning, so as long as it doesn't get to the optics it'll be just fine even on electronics. Just make sure you take out the battery before doing anything. Pour a little (you don't want to make pools inside the camera) into the dial and start moving the dial back and forth. Repeat. With a few tries hopefully, the dial would start moving more freely. Let it be for a bit to let the alcohol evaporate.
I also bought rubbing alcohol as well, but I bought the wrong one - only %70 pure. I didn't pour it on the dial though.
If rubbing alcohol just doesn't work, well, there is option 1 which honestly, most likely isn't that bad. See if your camera is listed on iFixit, in which case you would get a good idea of how easy/difficult the job would be. If you can't find it on iFixit, the best bet is to find the cameras' service manual. You'll probably find it either free or buy for a small price (say $10USD).
The GX9 isn't on iFixit, but the GX85 is: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Panasonic+Lumix+GX80-85+Teardown/121269

But this only covers getting to the sensor.. It does look pretty straightforward to unscrew things and tinker around... I'm wondering if I'm up for that challenge, or if I'll do further harm.

I worry that the dial is stiff because I've dropped the camera before, and the plastics/metals are contorted. Is there any hope if that's the case?
I personally fixed a number of gunked up dials, including the Ricoh GRD (original) and I think the Ricoh GR as well by the rubbing alcohol method.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and good luck :)

Cheers,

Hubert
Thanks Hubert. Do you think it's safe enough to proceed with the screws to take a look? I guess I need to get the higher concentrate isopropyl alcohol first.

I would love to solve this quickly, before going to the tropics for the holidays. Sending to Panasonic risks my camera not being back in time, so I might have to just sweat it out until the new year. The camera does operate normally otherwise.

Keith
Hi,

I didn't realize this was a time-sensitive matter. How much time do you have before going on your trip?

I think 70% rubbing alcohol is the most common you would find. If you can find a more pure one (like say 91%) that would be better, although even at 70% it "should" be okay... But yeah, try to find a more pure one if you can. Take a look at the ingredients, there is a small chance that its 70% alcohol and 30% distilled water. I doubt it but you never know. And to be clear, you are not going to be outright pouring it. More like putting drops of it into the crevices.

Question though. Is it the thumb dial wheel? Or the actual dials on top? If the latter, it sounds like more of a mechanical problem. Wouldn't hurt to try the rubbing alcohol but if its the top dials...chances of success is more limited.

As for the service manual, the iFixit site is pretty good. It even has bits from the actual service manual. But, here is the actual service manual for the GX85. GX9 should be similar.

https://www.panasonic.com/content/dam/pim/au/en/DM/DMC-GX/DMC-GX85GN/LUMIX GX85 Operation Manual.pdf

It seems you can buy the GX9 service manual (pdf) from eBay or Amazon.

Take a look at the service manual. It's not as tough as it looks (Truly, I actually have a partially disassembled GX85 currently) but it's not for the faint of heart.

On the other hand, if your GX9 actually works with just a stiff dial (i.e. no weird sound/grinding noise or other symptoms of breaking down anytime soon), I would leave it till after your trip before trying to open it up, unless you are confident in your abilities.
 
Now, one of the main reasons that I wanted the 14-45mm for was smooth zoom action. The 14-42 is very jerky, and it's a problem when shooting video (although motorized zoom would be ideal).
Ok, So the obvious answer is the 14-42 X series pancake which has motorized zoom and focus and is better image quality that the basic 14-42. And it can be had 2nd hand for $150-200. But that seems too obvious. So why not?
 
I have been thinking of buying the legendary Panasonic 14-45mm for years now. I actually ordered it (used, for $180) from Amazon a few days ago, but I had serious second thoughts and decided to cancel the order today. I already have the 14-42mm that came with my GH2. I know the image quality is not as good, but after re-visiting some old threads, it seems like it's close enough to not warrant the upgrade. I also gave up on the 12-32mm, since it apparently exhibits shutter shock at 32mm under certain conditions, and my GH2 does not have an electronic shutter option. So I'd rather try to save the money for the 15mm f1.7 - maybe it will come down closer to $500 in October.

Now, one of the main reasons that I wanted the 14-45mm for was smooth zoom action. The 14-42 is very jerky, and it's a problem when shooting video (although motorized zoom would be ideal). I was wondering if there was a way to approach the smoothness of the 45-150mm by lubricating the outside of the zoom cylinder with a little WD40 to help it glide better. Is there any risk at all of the lubricant getting into the optical elements? I realize that it's not a weather sealed lens, but lubricants do adhere to the surface they are applied on, so I'm hoping that it wouldn't start spreading on the inside.

My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.

Has anyone else tried something similar? Is there a chance of screwing this up and destroying the lens?
The 1st version of the 14-42 was a a rare miss by Panasonic in terms of build quality. But, the venerable 14-45 is not particularly ideal for video. The autofocus and image stabilization is a tiny bit noisy. If video is your concern then the 14-42 PZ might be the better choice. The powered zoom is very fluid.
 
Thanks Hubert. Do you think it's safe enough to proceed with the screws to take a look? I guess I need to get the higher concentrate isopropyl alcohol first.

I would love to solve this quickly, before going to the tropics for the holidays. Sending to Panasonic risks my camera not being back in time, so I might have to just sweat it out until the new year. The camera does operate normally otherwise.
Personally I take it apart, but... I trained as an electrical technician and feel confident doing quite technical repairs on kit. If you are not confident my advice would be don't risk it until after your trip. Unless you are willing to buy a new body at short notice - GX85´s are pretty cheap just now.

But if the camera is working OK just a little stiff, I wait till after the holiday then try a repair.
 
After you "repair" the old lens, just get a 14-42mm II. You'll need it. ;-)
nope, already debated this years ago in another thread. i'd rather have the 14-45mm if i were to get a replacement.
I've owned the original 14-42 (takes 52mm filter), the 14-45, and the second 14-42 (takes 46mm filter). The first one was poor. In terms of IQ, I thought the 14-42 II was the equal to the 14-45, though many may disagree.

In terms of smoothness of operation of focus and zoom rings, it's just no contest, the 14-42 II is way better than the 14-45. For one thing, the barrel of the 14-42 II barely extends 1/4 or 1/2 inch while zooming, and it's very smooth. The 14-45 cranks it out a lot more than that, and mine at least was never smooth and silky. I sold my 14-45 after getting the 14-42 II as a kit with a camera body.

--
Brent
 
Last edited:
My idea is to spray some WD40 (I also have some gel grease around as an alternate, and that won't run at all under normal temperatures) on a napkin and rub it on the zoom barrel to form a thin film.
I have to say this again - WD40 is NOT, I repeat NOT a lubricant!!!!
Go to any forum that talks about repairing cameras, specially older vintage camera and lenses. Every single time, it's the same thing...do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant. Actually, generally speaking, when it comes to old cameras...general saying goes something like..."Those who use WD40 on old cameras...shouldn't be allowed to handle old cameras" ;)

Specifically, WD40 was designed as a solvent/cleaner. It's great cleaning dirt and getting gunk out. But it also leaves a residue behind which over time has a tendency to gum things up. Door hinges? Sure, fine, it would make the squeak go away for a bit...then gum things up so you'll need to do it again. Cameras...well, besides gumming things up again after awhile, it's damaging to your optics (in that it's almost impossible to get off your optics...). There is just no real benefits of using WD40 on a camera or anything else that relies on lubricants (use to lubricate or clean a gun? Err...no...). Well, unless you need to get rust of or some other really bad gunk that just does not come off any other way...even then, I would think it's a last ditch effort...

Personally, when I need to use a lubricant for cameras/lenses etc. I use a silicone lubricant. You still don't want it on your optics but does the job (just make sure it's okay at either high or low temperatures...). Otherwise, there are lubricants specifically designed for camera/lenses...but I believe it's expensive.
My exposure comp dial is stiff and I'd love to loosen it myself instead of paying 150€ and being without my camera for a few weeks. Glad I found this before using classic WD40. But what about this product?

https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/

Silicone lubricant by WD40. Seems designed for this sort of use.
...albeit, I have never used this particular product before....actually this is the first I heard of it ;). Still, this is a lubricant, and unless I'm wrong, your dial is stiff, which would indicate either there is a 1) mechanical problem (breakage, crack, slippage, etc.) or 2) it's already gunked up with dirt. If either is true, I don't think that lubricant would help. Actually regular WD40 would be of more use in this case, and NO, I'm not saying use regular WD40.
Thanks for this response! Hm, ok maybe the problem is more serious than I hoped for.
My guess is that the dial is gunked up which would mean you have 3 options. 1) take off the top plate (assuming there is one, which camera are you having problems with?)
I have the GX9. I actually sent it to Panasonic and indeed they suggested replacing the top plate - $40 parts, $120 repair. I decided at the time it wasn't worth it, but maybe it was. In any case, with travels coming up, I don't have time to send it in again right now.
or 2) blow compressed air and pray that it would dislodge whatever is gunking up the dial (truthfully I see little hope that this would work)
I did buy some compressed air to try it, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
or 3) Use some rubbing alcohol to try to clean the dial up. Rubbing alcohol, assuming it's pure or close to pure, would evaporate very quickly and is pretty good at cleaning, so as long as it doesn't get to the optics it'll be just fine even on electronics. Just make sure you take out the battery before doing anything. Pour a little (you don't want to make pools inside the camera) into the dial and start moving the dial back and forth. Repeat. With a few tries hopefully, the dial would start moving more freely. Let it be for a bit to let the alcohol evaporate.
I also bought rubbing alcohol as well, but I bought the wrong one - only %70 pure. I didn't pour it on the dial though.
If rubbing alcohol just doesn't work, well, there is option 1 which honestly, most likely isn't that bad. See if your camera is listed on iFixit, in which case you would get a good idea of how easy/difficult the job would be. If you can't find it on iFixit, the best bet is to find the cameras' service manual. You'll probably find it either free or buy for a small price (say $10USD).
The GX9 isn't on iFixit, but the GX85 is: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Panasonic+Lumix+GX80-85+Teardown/121269

But this only covers getting to the sensor.. It does look pretty straightforward to unscrew things and tinker around... I'm wondering if I'm up for that challenge, or if I'll do further harm.

I worry that the dial is stiff because I've dropped the camera before, and the plastics/metals are contorted. Is there any hope if that's the case?
I personally fixed a number of gunked up dials, including the Ricoh GRD (original) and I think the Ricoh GR as well by the rubbing alcohol method.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and good luck :)

Cheers,

Hubert
Thanks Hubert. Do you think it's safe enough to proceed with the screws to take a look? I guess I need to get the higher concentrate isopropyl alcohol first.

I would love to solve this quickly, before going to the tropics for the holidays. Sending to Panasonic risks my camera not being back in time, so I might have to just sweat it out until the new year. The camera does operate normally otherwise.

Keith
Hi,

I didn't realize this was a time-sensitive matter. How much time do you have before going on your trip?
I leave in two weeks. My last experience with Panasonic service (in Germany) was just over three weeks.
I think 70% rubbing alcohol is the most common you would find. If you can find a more pure one (like say 91%) that would be better, although even at 70% it "should" be okay... But yeah, try to find a more pure one if you can. Take a look at the ingredients, there is a small chance that its 70% alcohol and 30% distilled water. I doubt it but you never know. And to be clear, you are not going to be outright pouring it. More like putting drops of it into the crevices.
Ok, yeah I'm worried 70% could still leave some sort of residue. Actually I already used this stuff with a Q-tip on the camera body and top plate, and it's just a bit sticky. But no real damage..
Question though. Is it the thumb dial wheel? Or the actual dials on top? If the latter, it sounds like more of a mechanical problem. Wouldn't hurt to try the rubbing alcohol but if its the top dials...chances of success is more limited.
It's the proper EC dial on the top, not the thumb dial wheel.
As for the service manual, the iFixit site is pretty good. It even has bits from the actual service manual. But, here is the actual service manual for the GX85. GX9 should be similar.

https://www.panasonic.com/content/dam/pim/au/en/DM/DMC-GX/DMC-GX85GN/LUMIX GX85 Operation Manual.pdf

It seems you can buy the GX9 service manual (pdf) from eBay or Amazon.

Take a look at the service manual. It's not as tough as it looks (Truly, I actually have a partially disassembled GX85 currently) but it's not for the faint of heart.
Taking a glance at this, it is definitely beyond my current abilities. With everything else on my plate, I won't be getting into this any time soon. I would love to learn this DIY stuff, but it's not realistic at the moment.
On the other hand, if your GX9 actually works with just a stiff dial (i.e. no weird sound/grinding noise or other symptoms of breaking down anytime soon), I would leave it till after your trip before trying to open it up, unless you are confident in your abilities.
Cool, yeah no weird sounds or tactile feedback right now - just stiffness.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top