White Balance ?

Jimfastcar

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I have encountered this problem several times, I tend to shoot S Priority as mostly Birds, with Auto ISO and Auto White Balance, but when shooting waterfowl on green water, the image gets a green/yellow cast that seems difficult to either adjust for in Settings or in post-processing. Any suggestions ?

Shot with Sony a6400 and Telephoto Lens with converter

Thanks



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Those shots are so badly overexposed that the colour in the ducks is very washed out. I would suggest you get the exposure right before worrying about the white balance.

My suggestion with WB would be to try setting daylight WB. I often find the results more to my taste than setting auto WB. If you wish, they can still be adjusted in pp.
 
You are shooting in bright sunlight.

Use daylight (usually 5200-5500 K) and reduce a little bit the exposure to keep highlights from clipping.

AWB will try to compensate for green with magenta.
 
You are shooting in bright sunlight.

Use daylight (usually 5200-5500 K) and reduce a little bit the exposure to keep highlights from clipping.
You can shoot in daylight WB almost all the time, and if necessary adjust a little in processing.

I would reduce exposure by two stops for scenes like these where the object of interest is light against a dark background. Use the Exposure Compensation control.
AWB will try to compensate for green with magenta.
Yes, especially in forest scenes.

Auto WB is more nuisance than benefit, in my experience.
 
I have encountered this problem several times, I tend to shoot S Priority as mostly Birds, with Auto ISO and Auto White Balance, but when shooting waterfowl on green water, the image gets a green/yellow cast that seems difficult to either adjust for in Settings or in post-processing. Any suggestions ?
I don’t see a yellow/green color cast on the ducks, although I do see a small amount of green reflected by the water on the lower parts of the second bird. The water looks green, but I would assume that you want to retain the natural color of the water. Is there algae in the water, or is the water surface reflecting foliage located on the other size of the water body?

If you want to remove the color cast *from the water* then white balance is the wrong tool for removing it, as it would put a color cast on the bird, namely, a blue/magenta or purple color; white balance adjusts *all* the colors of an image. Adjusting a color of only one object in a scene requires somewhat more advanced editing skills and tools.

Generally speaking, adjusting white balance manually in software requires a bit of care and some specialized knowledge.

First, you will have difficulty adjusting white balance manually if your screen does not appear to be white to your eyes. When you look at a white object on your screen, for example the background of this website, does it actually look white to you or does it have a color cast, maybe a bluish color? If so, then adjusting color by sight won’t work. Your computer operating system might have a crude adjustment for this, or your monitor, or you could obtain a monitor calibration device for best results, although this is not strictly needed.

White balance is usually implemented by two sliders in software: color temperature, which adjusts between yellow and blue, and tint which adjusts between green and magenta. Combinations of these two adjustments can remove any color cast. I would suggest changing these slowly and by small amounts, giving your eyes a little time to adjust. As the term “white balance” implies, you typically want to adjust the colors so that an objectively neutral color—white, gray, or black—an object which reflects all frequencies of light equally, ends up with all three color numbers equal to each other, so that the red value equals the green and blue values. It’s easier doing this adjustment on the camera, perhaps using a white object like a styrofoam cup, using a manual white balance adjustment. Or, you can take a photo of a white object in the scene and adjust it accordingly on the computer. Some software allows you to click on an object which is supposed to be neutral, and it will calculate the white balance automatically.

As others have mentioned, your photo are slightly over exposed on the ducks. If you shot raw, then perhaps you can recover these highlights with an adjustment, but if you shot with JPEG, then the color information in the highlights is lost. With unrecoverable overexposed highlights, any white balance adjustment is going to be problematic. But as I mentioned, the white balance on the ducks themselves appears to be good.





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Thanks all, I need to learn some more about adjusting exposures.

Perhaps I will start bracketing automatically and see if I can improve results that way
 
Thanks all, I need to learn some more about adjusting exposures.

Perhaps I will start bracketing automatically and see if I can improve results that way
Yes, you can learn a lot from bracketed exposures. See when you want more exposure and when you want less.
 
I think the images are okay, but do you shoot in raw?

Would you like the colour of the water to be different?
I sometime shoot RAW, but my pp Affinity is not as powerful as Lightroom.

My learning curve is still steep I am afraid
 
Leave the WB on Auto, shoot RAW, and change it to whatever you want later.

But I'm not seeing any color cast on the ducks, so maybe the camera does know best? Maybe the green is from the background reflecting on the surface, or even the water itself.

Regarding the exposure, I would spot meter right on the ducks' heads where you're focusing. Then adjust if necessary using Exposure Compensation on the camera or the slider in software.
 
I have encountered this problem several times, I tend to shoot S Priority as mostly Birds, with Auto ISO and Auto White Balance, but when shooting waterfowl on green water, the image gets a green/yellow cast that seems difficult to either adjust for in Settings or in post-processing. Any suggestions ?

Shot with Sony a6400 and Telephoto Lens with converter
EXPOSURE:
Since your A6400 has an electronic viewfinder, learn how to use zebra pattern and/or a histogram overlay in the VF. Adjust exposure compensation (assign to a thumb wheel if not already available) for ETTR (Expose To The Right) using those overlays to prevent over exposing things in the scene (like the duck).

If you don't want to use on-the-fly EC adjustments using the ETTR technique, then at least set EC to -1/3 before shooting in sunlight. I adjust EC using ETTR for every shot using my camera but my wife won't on her camera so I set EC for her camera to -1/3 which prevents over exposure for the most part. .... Reason is that on all of the cameras I've used, (ours or friend's), the factory default target exposure at zero EC is a tad too bright for bright sunlight.

WHITE BALANCE:
As far as setting white balance in camera for sunlight, as others have said, the daylight setting seems to work a bit better than AWB.

A trick to easily adjust white balance in post processing is, if the scene you want does not have anything white in it, to look for a white object elsewhere that is lit by the same source and take a picture of that as a template image in addition to the pictures that you really want. Extra pictures using digital are free so why not? Then use a post processing software (like Lightroom) that can transfer settings from one image to another. Click on the white object in the template image to establish white balance and transfer the setting to the other pictures lit by the same light source. Only need to do this if there is nothing white in the pictures you really want. Try this on some sample test pictures to see if it works for you.

Sky
 
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Thanks all, I need to learn some more about adjusting exposures.

Perhaps I will start bracketing automatically and see if I can improve results that way
I think that a good understanding of the Exposure Triangle will help you a lot in getting exposures correct or at least very close in camera. Can reduce post processing time immensely.

I use bracketing only for very high dynamic range scenes.
 
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Thanks all, I need to learn some more about adjusting exposures.

Perhaps I will start bracketing automatically and see if I can improve results that way
I think that a good understanding of the Exposure Triangle will help you a lot in getting exposures correct or at least very close in camera. Can reduce post processing time immensely.
The main problem with that "Exposure Triangle" is that it omits the most important factor in Exposure - subject illumination. When shooting in nature you get to determine when you shoot, and where you shoot. Time of day and weather dramatically affect subject illumination, as does the direction you are shooting. Depending on the time of day, you will get dramatically different results depending on which side of the lake you are shooting from.

The other issue is one of nomenclature. Incorrect terminology can make it difficult for a beginner to learn a subject.

"Exposure" refers to the amount of light that falls on the sensor while the shutter is open (think of it as the number of photons hitting the sensor). The three main factors in Exposure are: Subject illumination, aperture, and shutter speed. "ISO" is not directly a factor in exposure, it's a factor in how we interpret the captured data.

What the linked article is actually talking about is "image lightness", how light or dark the final image looks. The main factors in that are Subject illumination, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. What the article is really talking about is the "Lightness quadrangle."

While "exposure triangle" sounds simpler, it is teaching two incorrect concepts. "Exposure" is not the same as "Image Lightness". As a photographer, you almost always have the option of controlling (or influencing) subject illumination. At the very least you can decide to shoot during the day rather than at night, decide to shoot on a day where the weather is to your liking, or perhaps use fill flash or a reflector.

====

The author if the article is also a bit confused on the causes of image noise. While some image noise is from "random fluctuations in electrical signals", the biggest source of visible noise in low light images is usually the "shot noise". This is the noise inherent in the quantum nature of light. Even if the camera were perfect, and added no noise to the image, we would still have noisy images at very low light levels.
I use bracketing only for very high dynamic range scenes.
 
shoot in RAW. That allows me to change the WB in post if need be. Doing this I leave WB camera setting on cloudy. Give it a warm tone.
 
Shoot raw.

That gives you better control over white balance among many other benefits, including correcting that overexposure.
There is no correction to overexposure. Overexposure means the important details in highlights are lost to clipping.
Wrong.

Overexposure means the image is too bright.

Blown highlights, on the other hand, means details are lost and irretrievable.

You're describing blown highlights but calling it overexposure.
 
Shoot raw.

That gives you better control over white balance among many other benefits, including correcting that overexposure.
There is no correction to overexposure. Overexposure means the important details in highlights are lost to clipping.
Unless there are no important details in highlights, in which case overexposure CAN be corrected.
 
Overexposure means the image is too bright.
Turing brightness knob to the right doesn't make image overexposed.

"Too bright" is about brightness. Brightness is the result of image processing and viewing conditions; and has nothing to do with exposure.

Often the posts that start with "wrong" are not exactly right :)

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http://www.libraw.org/
 
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