First shot overexposed on Oly P5

Humansvillian · Oct 1, 2019

My beloved P5 (just like the one Guy Parsons has) is a wonderful camera, and I’m happy as a clam with it.

But since it was bought as new old stock open box (no warranty) a few months ago, it has an unusual quirk.

Turn on the camera, and the first shot is overexposed. The second shot and all the rest I take until I turn off the camera are glorious.

Turn it off for awhile, and the first shot is again overexposed.

I just snap the shutter twice for the first shot.

But what causes such a thing?

Any guesstimates would be much appreciated.

user061018 · Oct 1, 2019

I don't know if it's a known issue for the E-P5 but on the E-m5 we had a known sticky shutter which presented in the first frame being underexposed and the subsequent shots being properly exposed.

I'm not saying that's the issue but that's what comes to mind when I read your description of the problem. Sorry for your misfortune, I hope you can get it sorted quickly and with minimal fuss.

Humansvillian · Oct 1, 2019

user061018 said:
I don't know if it's a known issue for the E-P5 but on the E-m5 we had a known sticky shutter which presented in the first frame being underexposed and the subsequent shots being properly exposed.

I'm not saying that's the issue but that's what comes to mind when I read your description of the problem. Sorry for your misfortune, I hope you can get it sorted quickly and with minimal fuss.

I paid $400 delivered for a brand new P5 with a VF-4 viewfinder and 17mm Olympus F1.8 lens, in an open box.

A sticky shutter is fixed by two snaps on the first shot.

I keep thinking maybe it will “break in”, and stop overexposing the first shot, but I’m good as it is.

What causes a “sticky shutter”?

I’d think it would either work every time, or stick every time.

But after the first shot it’s always good, for hundreds of shots, hours of use, but turn it off for awhile and the first shot will always be overexposed.

Helen · Oct 1, 2019

Humansvillian said:
user061018 said:

I don't know if it's a known issue for the E-P5 but on the E-m5 we had a known sticky shutter which presented in the first frame being underexposed and the subsequent shots being properly exposed.

I'm not saying that's the issue but that's what comes to mind when I read your description of the problem. Sorry for your misfortune, I hope you can get it sorted quickly and with minimal fuss.

Click to expand...

I paid $400 delivered for a brand new P5 with a VF-4 viewfinder and 17mm Olympus F1.8 lens, in an open box.

A sticky shutter is fixed by two snaps on the first shot.

I keep thinking maybe it will “break in”, and stop overexposing the first shot, but I’m good as it is.

What causes a “sticky shutter”?

I’d think it would either work every time, or stick every time.

But after the first shot it’s always good, for hundreds of shots, hours of use, but turn it off for awhile and the first shot will always be overexposed.

So the first shot is washed out - the opposite of the problem mentioned as a known issue with the E-M5, as opposed to your E-P5? Interesting. (Regarding the E-M5, mine has the underexposure issue the other poster mentioned, too).

Here's my take on it. Regarding your E-P5's sticky shutter that overexposes initially after it is "rested": that is pretty common in older cameras (by which I primarily mean film ones with focal plane shutters, including electronically-timed ones, though it is actually even more common in leaf shutters due to their blade design - I won't go into why here) and I imagine that the cause is similar in modern digitals with electronically-timed focal plane shutters as it was in their film-based predecessors - there are still mechanical, erm, mechanisms (couldn't think of a less repetitive word!) that run in the shutter and they simply get a bit bound up with the lube and any dust, grime etc. contaminants in it if they're unlucky. That first, slower-than-intended shutter cycle disturbs it, breaking it up somewhat and thus temporarily stops it gumming up the works, until it has time to settle again, whereupon you're faced with the same overexposed first frame again. It's very unlikely to be the electronics as then the issue would be likely to be consistent for every exposure.

R Liewenberger · Oct 1, 2019

Humansvillian said:
My beloved P5 (just like the one Guy Parsons has) is a wonderful camera, and I’m happy as a clam with it.

But since it was bought as new old stock open box (no warranty) a few months ago, it has an unusual quirk.

Turn on the camera, and the first shot is overexposed. The second shot and all the rest I take until I turn off the camera are glorious.

Turn it off for awhile, and the first shot is again overexposed.

I just snap the shutter twice for the first shot.

But what causes such a thing?

Any guesstimates would be much appreciated.

One of my E-5 obviously had a similar problem, as its previous owner told me when I bought it from him. A few weeks after he had bought this camera brand new, the first shot always turned out totally black. Oly replaced the shutter, no more problems ever since.

Liewenberger

cba_melbourne · Oct 1, 2019

Humansvillian said:
I paid $400 delivered for a brand new P5 with a VF-4 viewfinder and 17mm Olympus F1.8 lens, in an open box.

A sticky shutter is fixed by two snaps on the first shot.

I keep thinking maybe it will “break in”, and stop overexposing the first shot, but I’m good as it is.

What causes a “sticky shutter”?

I’d think it would either work every time, or stick every time.

But after the first shot it’s always good, for hundreds of shots, hours of use, but turn it off for awhile and the first shot will always be overexposed.

Well, to my understanding, open box is not "brand new". What was the shutter count when you got it? If more than say a few 100, then it does not even qualify as "new never used" or "new old stock". Then it IS well and truly used.

First thing, have you tried with another lens? After all, it could just as well be a sticky aperture, eg not closing down or not closing down fast enough for the first time. Also check the spring loaded contacts at the mount.

Have a good look at the shutter, can you spot any cleaning marks? If someone ever tried to clean that shutter, chances are the very thin and fragile leafs have been distorted or misaligned. This can cause all sorts of problems. If so, the only permanent solution is to replace the shutter. Since it was "open box" it maybe was a demo camera, and someone playing with it in the store may have taken the lens off and tapped onto the shutter... people do silly things if it's not their own.

What I would do (if for some reason I could not return it and get a refund, or have it fixed under dealer warranty...), set the camera to do repetition exposures, and let it drain out several battery charges, eg a few thousand shutter actuations. That could possibly loosen things up in the mechanics... a bit like running-in a car. It's a 50/50 chance at best that this helps.

If that does not help, I would just try and see if I can live with the issue. And If it is too annoying or limiting, cut my losses. Sell the camera for parts, sell the VF-4, and keep the lens. Buying used cameras is always a high risk that you have to factor into your decisions. I do not think I would send it for a paid repair, but that is another option you have.

alcelc · Oct 1, 2019

or in evf if you attached one?

I trust all Oly cameras, like Pannys, are Live View shooting machines. Hence, we can enjoy the real time WYSIWYG simulated image having a lot more information than a simple composition aid of non Live View cameras.

Therefore I am very curious on what the first shot would appear on your LCD before capture it. On my Pannys, if it is under or over exposed, it must be so reflected in the Live View. If we pay enough attention to the Live View and know what it tells us, we have no reason to keep on using that set of setting for an exposure we know well in advance that it will not work.

Do you mean despite what setting you made, including Exposure Compensation, your camera will have same behavior on every first shot after powering up but under your adjustment the Live View still looking fine?

I ask because over my 10+ years experience with M43 (Panny), including a washed (in a river) G1, donot have similar issue. All of my cameras are able to deliver a reliable WISIWIG live view (of course with certain interpretation upon various generations of the machine).

If yes, likely an early sign that your camera will start to develop problem. If it happens to me, I shall start looking for a replacement. It is no joke, I shall lose my confidence on its reliability.

My 2 cents.

--
Albert

Rich K · Oct 1, 2019

Humansvillian said:
My beloved P5 (just like the one Guy Parsons has) is a wonderful camera, and I’m happy as a clam with it.

But since it was bought as new old stock open box (no warranty) a few months ago, it has an unusual quirk.

Turn on the camera, and the first shot is overexposed. The second shot and all the rest I take until I turn off the camera are glorious.

Turn it off for awhile, and the first shot is again overexposed.

I just snap the shutter twice for the first shot.

But what causes such a thing?

Any guesstimates would be much appreciated.

A very curious problem. My EP5 has never shown this behavior. It seems like an obvious "warm up" problem ... maybe a slightly sticky shutter? Was the cam sitting for a very long time unused? If so, maybe a bit of shutter exercise will correct the issue.

Humansvillian · Oct 1, 2019

alcelc said:
or in evf if you attached one?

I trust all Oly cameras, like Pannys, are Live View shooting machines. Hence, we can enjoy the real time WYSIWYG simulated image having a lot more information than a simple composition aid of non Live View cameras.

Therefore I am very curious on what the first shot would appear on your LCD before capture it. On my Pannys, if it is under or over exposed, it must be so reflected in the Live View. If we pay enough attention to the Live View and know what it tells us, we have no reason to keep on using that set of setting for an exposure we know well in advance that it will not work.

Do you mean despite what setting you made, including Exposure Compensation, your camera will have same behavior on every first shot after powering up but under your adjustment the Live View still looking fine?

I ask because over my 10+ years experience with M43 (Panny), including a washed (in a river) G1, donot have similar issue. All of my cameras are able to deliver a reliable WISIWIG live view (of course with certain interpretation upon various generations of the machine).

If yes, likely an early sign that your camera will start to develop problem. If it happens to me, I shall start looking for a replacement. It is no joke, I shall lose my confidence on its reliability.

My 2 cents.

Humansvillian · Oct 1, 2019

Rich K said:
Humansvillian said:

My beloved P5 (just like the one Guy Parsons has) is a wonderful camera, and I’m happy as a clam with it.

But since it was bought as new old stock open box (no warranty) a few months ago, it has an unusual quirk.

Turn on the camera, and the first shot is overexposed. The second shot and all the rest I take until I turn off the camera are glorious.

Turn it off for awhile, and the first shot is again overexposed.

I just snap the shutter twice for the first shot.

But what causes such a thing?

Any guesstimates would be much appreciated.

Click to expand...

A very curious problem. My EP5 has never shown this behavior. It seems like an obvious "warm up" problem ... maybe a slightly sticky shutter? Was the cam sitting for a very long time unused? If so, maybe a bit of shutter exercise will correct the issue.

I won the camera outfit on eBay from a pawn shop reseller.

What the seller does is bid on Amazon surplus sales and immediately resells on eBay.

He might have doubled his money,,,,who knows?

Exact same outfits are $599 Buy it Now.

This seller listed $499 Buy it Now and took $400 so fast I wish I’d offered $300.

But the camera and lens and viewfinder and all accessories were in a nice Olympus box, that had been opened.

It may have sat around in stock from 2013 to when a retailer shipped it back to Oly and then Oly sold it on Amazon wholesale.

it had less than 100 clicks, brand new.

--
Humansville is a town in the Missouri Ozarks

Humansvillian · Oct 1, 2019

My Oly lens and VF-4 is easily worth the $400 I paid for the entire outfit. It’s a free P-5, measured that way.

And it’s a great camera, just needs two clicks on first shot.

It’s my free P5.

Get your own.

--
Humansville is a town in the Missouri Ozarks

Helen · Oct 2, 2019

cba_melbourne said:
Humansvillian said:

I paid $400 delivered for a brand new P5 with a VF-4 viewfinder and 17mm Olympus F1.8 lens, in an open box.

A sticky shutter is fixed by two snaps on the first shot.

I keep thinking maybe it will “break in”, and stop overexposing the first shot, but I’m good as it is.

What causes a “sticky shutter”?

I’d think it would either work every time, or stick every time.

But after the first shot it’s always good, for hundreds of shots, hours of use, but turn it off for awhile and the first shot will always be overexposed.

Click to expand...

Well, to my understanding, open box is not "brand new". What was the shutter count when you got it? If more than say a few 100, then it does not even qualify as "new never used" or "new old stock". Then it IS well and truly used.

First thing, have you tried with another lens? After all, it could just as well be a sticky aperture, eg not closing down or not closing down fast enough for the first time. Also check the spring loaded contacts at the mount.

That's a good point - apertures can get slowed down by oil migrating into the blades and they do loosen up in the same way (one or more initial exposures get them behaving properly for a while) as mechanical focal plane shutters with lube issues (which with them are usually in the mechanisms at the side of the shutter itself (gearing and so on) rather than on the blades themselves.

cba_melbourne said:
Have a good look at the shutter, can you spot any cleaning marks? If someone ever tried to clean that shutter, chances are the very thin and fragile leafs have been distorted or misaligned. This can cause all sorts of problems. If so, the only permanent solution is to replace the shutter. Since it was "open box" it maybe was a demo camera, and someone playing with it in the store may have taken the lens off and tapped onto the shutter... people do silly things if it's not their own.

Trouble is, it is rather difficult to get an Olympus mirrorless to show you its shutter unless there is already something seriously wrong with it, as its natural resting state is fully open.

Helen · Oct 2, 2019

Humansvillian said:
alcelc said:

or in evf if you attached one?

I trust all Oly cameras, like Pannys, are Live View shooting machines. Hence, we can enjoy the real time WYSIWYG simulated image having a lot more information than a simple composition aid of non Live View cameras.

Therefore I am very curious on what the first shot would appear on your LCD before capture it. On my Pannys, if it is under or over exposed, it must be so reflected in the Live View. If we pay enough attention to the Live View and know what it tells us, we have no reason to keep on using that set of setting for an exposure we know well in advance that it will not work.

Do you mean despite what setting you made, including Exposure Compensation, your camera will have same behavior on every first shot after powering up but under your adjustment the Live View still looking fine?

I ask because over my 10+ years experience with M43 (Panny), including a washed (in a river) G1, donot have similar issue. All of my cameras are able to deliver a reliable WISIWIG live view (of course with certain interpretation upon various generations of the machine).

If yes, likely an early sign that your camera will start to develop problem. If it happens to me, I shall start looking for a replacement. It is no joke, I shall lose my confidence on its reliability.

My 2 cents.

Click to expand...

The Live View will show correct exposure, but actual first shot is washed out over exposed.

Strange behavior in a P5, or any camera.

Yup - I still stand by my theory (even more than before, actually) which I refer you to earlier in the thread since (cough) I appear to have inadvertently found an invisibility switch ;-) (sorry, just my warped sense of humour there!!).

Funnily enough, the problem I described can actually turn up more readily on cameras that haven't been used much (oops, just spotted Rich K already said that). Though I do also second cba_melbourne's suggestion to check it's not the diaphragm of the lens that is slow in stopping down on the initial shot (however, I suspect you have already used the camera with more than one lens and if you get the problem with all lenses, we're still looking at you, perfidious mechanical shutter!).

Helen · Oct 2, 2019

alcelc said:
or in evf if you attached one?

I trust all Oly cameras, like Pannys, are Live View shooting machines. Hence, we can enjoy the real time WYSIWYG simulated image having a lot more information than a simple composition aid of non Live View cameras.

Yes, all Olympus Pen and OM-D models (i.e. their m43 cameras) are mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras just like all the Lumix G system cameras and operate with live view (like Panasonics, they have the option to set whether they reflect the likely effect of exposure settings in live view or instead show a constant, easily-viewable image brightness).

alcelc said:
Therefore I am very curious on what the first shot would appear on your LCD before capture it. On my Pannys, if it is under or over exposed, it must be so reflected in the Live View. If we pay enough attention to the Live View and know what it tells us, we have no reason to keep on using that set of setting for an exposure we know well in advance that it will not work.

I am pretty certain from the description that the OP's camera will show correct exposure on live view, before capturing the shot.

alcelc said:
Do you mean despite what setting you made, including Exposure Compensation, your camera will have same behavior on every first shot after powering up but under your adjustment the Live View still looking fine?

I believe the OP does indeed mean that.

alcelc said:
I ask because over my 10+ years experience with M43 (Panny), including a washed (in a river) G1, donot have similar issue. All of my cameras are able to deliver a reliable WISIWIG live view (of course with certain interpretation upon various generations of the machine).

If yes, likely an early sign that your camera will start to develop problem. If it happens to me, I shall start looking for a replacement. It is no joke, I shall lose my confidence on its reliability.

My 2 cents.

I agree that it is likely a mechanical issue - most likely with the mechanical shutter, or possibly with the aperture mechanism in the lens, though only if it happens only with one lens or (if very unlucky) with particular affected lenses. If it's the shutter, it is possible to work around it in the way the OP describes (a first exposure frees up the mechanism for correct function in that use session) and often the same can be said for sticky apertures.

Guy Parsons · Oct 2, 2019

Rich K said:
Humansvillian said:

My beloved P5 (just like the one Guy Parsons has) is a wonderful camera, and I’m happy as a clam with it.

But since it was bought as new old stock open box (no warranty) a few months ago, it has an unusual quirk.

Turn on the camera, and the first shot is overexposed. The second shot and all the rest I take until I turn off the camera are glorious.

Turn it off for awhile, and the first shot is again overexposed.

I just snap the shutter twice for the first shot.

But what causes such a thing?

Any guesstimates would be much appreciated.

Click to expand...

A very curious problem. My EP5 has never shown this behavior. It seems like an obvious "warm up" problem ... maybe a slightly sticky shutter? Was the cam sitting for a very long time unused? If so, maybe a bit of shutter exercise will correct the issue.

Ditto no such problems so far with my E-P5 pair. Currently using the silver one but this thread will make me immediately go check my black one as I usually change them over about every six months - it may have been resting a bit more than that this time.

Phew! Just now tested and all ok. Battery depleted to red zone and checking the card shows that I last used it in February this year - time to change from silver to black it seems.

By the way, just did a 6 week holiday and the newly acquired 8-18mm lens got a good workout alongside the little Sony camera that had the "24-200mm" range covered.

Still can't see why I may need to move on from the E-P5 as it does all that I need.

I'm a bad camera buyer, happy with a 2012 vintage camera and likely to stay happy for a while yet.

If only the Pen-F had been designed with a tilt screen then I may have considered an "upgrade".

Regards........ Guy

Guy Parsons · Oct 2, 2019

I just had a truly brilliant idea. (OK I am suffering severely from, jet-lag at the moment so any slight thought at all seems brilliant to me).

My two E-P5 really do need that 6 monthly swap-over so why not use daylight saving/unsaving days as the changeover point. Set one camera to real time and the other to daylight saving time and do the change when the appropriate day arrives.

That forces me to do the regular change and it totally saves me from doing the daylight saving clock change in the cameras. It's all good.

OK that forces me to make a style decision, which will I use for summer? It should be the silver one (reflects the sun's heat better) and then use the black one for winter. I'll rest for a little while longer before I make that momentous decision.

Regards.... Guy

cba_melbourne · Oct 2, 2019

Helen said:
Trouble is, it is rather difficult to get an Olympus mirrorless to show you its shutter unless there is already something seriously wrong with it, as its natural resting state is fully open.

Sorry, I do not have a P5. If I lightly shake my Panasonic GM1 with power off, the shutter closes. A tap with a finger suffices. Carrying it in the bag also closes the shutter. Same with my GM5, but it takes a much stronger tap... Somehow I thought this must just be how all older M43 cameras are... But you are right, thinking about it I do not recall ever seeing my two Olympus with a closed shutter.

Helen · Oct 2, 2019

cba_melbourne said:
Helen said:

Trouble is, it is rather difficult to get an Olympus mirrorless to show you its shutter unless there is already something seriously wrong with it, as its natural resting state is fully open.

Click to expand...

Sorry, I do not have a P5. If I lightly shake my Panasonic GM1 with power off, the shutter closes. A tap with a finger suffices. Carrying it in the bag also closes the shutter. Same with my GM5, but it takes a much stronger tap... Somehow I thought this must just be how all older M43 cameras are... But you are right, thinking about it I do not recall ever seeing my two Olympus with a closed shutter.

Aha - yes, I see. No, the GM1, GM5 and the GF models from the GF7 onwards (and the small-size name-variants in the GX line that are actually GF cameras really, like the GX800) have a very unusual mechanical shutter that isn't even shared with other Panasonic models - it has very little conventional gearing and springs at all (and it's gearing that I suspect is slightly gummed up in the OP's E-P5) as it's largely electromagnetic motor driven (a somewhat more conventional electromagnet/spring/geared hybrid shutter is in a lot of the current and recent Panasonics but it doesn't have the same odd operational features and limitations). This funny GM/GF/small GX shutter is the one with a top mechanical speed of 1/500 and a low (mechanical) fastest flash sync of 1/50, both limitations of its unique design which was developed specifically to enable such a small body, so it seamlessly goes to full electronic to achieve higher speeds. And as you say, a particular characteristic is that it will close in response to shock when the camera is not powered up. I don't think it's intentional, just a side effect of the design (which also doesn't have a first curtain at all, by the way, so it's always the second curtain (that ends exposures) which you see when that happens.

The E-P5 has a conventional shutter with two curtain arrays and doesn't have a silent shutter option as it pre-dates the introduction of that feature in the Olympus range, otherwise the OP could also sidestep the reported problem by using that.

cba_melbourne · Oct 2, 2019

Helen said:
cba_melbourne said:

Helen said:

Trouble is, it is rather difficult to get an Olympus mirrorless to show you its shutter unless there is already something seriously wrong with it, as its natural resting state is fully open.

Click to expand...

Sorry, I do not have a P5. If I lightly shake my Panasonic GM1 with power off, the shutter closes. A tap with a finger suffices. Carrying it in the bag also closes the shutter. Same with my GM5, but it takes a much stronger tap... Somehow I thought this must just be how all older M43 cameras are... But you are right, thinking about it I do not recall ever seeing my two Olympus with a closed shutter.

Click to expand...

Aha - yes, I see. No, the GM1, GM5 and the GF models from the GF7 onwards (and the small-size name-variants in the GX line that are actually GF cameras really, like the GX800) have a very unusual mechanical shutter that isn't even shared with other Panasonic models - it has very little conventional gearing and springs at all (and it's gearing that I suspect is slightly gummed up in the OP's E-P5) as it's largely electromagnetic motor driven (a somewhat more conventional electromagnet/spring/geared hybrid shutter is in a lot of the current and recent Panasonics but it doesn't have the same odd operational features and limitations). This funny GM/GF/small GX shutter is the one with a top mechanical speed of 1/500 and a low (mechanical) fastest flash sync of 1/50, both limitations of its unique design which was developed specifically to enable such a small body, so it seamlessly goes to full electronic to achieve higher speeds. And as you say, a particular characteristic is that it will close in response to shock when the camera is not powered up. I don't think it's intentional, just a side effect of the design (which also doesn't have a first curtain at all, by the way, so it's always the second curtain (that ends exposures) which you see when that happens.

I have such a shutter right in front of me, from a GM1 that I recently cannibalized for parts. Yes, it has indeed only one curtain -- I did not even notice this before you mentioned it. And I can shake it open and close. There is a tiny motor (with 4 pins) moving the blades, it obviously needs power to stay put. Must be either a twin rotary solenoid, or a fast step motor. Fascinating, these little cameras...

Helen said:
The E-P5 has a conventional shutter with two curtain arrays and doesn't have a silent shutter option as it pre-dates the introduction of that feature in the Olympus range, otherwise the OP could also sidestep the reported problem by using that.

Helen · Oct 2, 2019

cba_melbourne said:
Helen said:

cba_melbourne said:

Helen said:

Trouble is, it is rather difficult to get an Olympus mirrorless to show you its shutter unless there is already something seriously wrong with it, as its natural resting state is fully open.

Click to expand...

Sorry, I do not have a P5. If I lightly shake my Panasonic GM1 with power off, the shutter closes. A tap with a finger suffices. Carrying it in the bag also closes the shutter. Same with my GM5, but it takes a much stronger tap... Somehow I thought this must just be how all older M43 cameras are... But you are right, thinking about it I do not recall ever seeing my two Olympus with a closed shutter.

Click to expand...

Aha - yes, I see. No, the GM1, GM5 and the GF models from the GF7 onwards (and the small-size name-variants in the GX line that are actually GF cameras really, like the GX800) have a very unusual mechanical shutter that isn't even shared with other Panasonic models - it has very little conventional gearing and springs at all (and it's gearing that I suspect is slightly gummed up in the OP's E-P5) as it's largely electromagnetic motor driven (a somewhat more conventional electromagnet/spring/geared hybrid shutter is in a lot of the current and recent Panasonics but it doesn't have the same odd operational features and limitations). This funny GM/GF/small GX shutter is the one with a top mechanical speed of 1/500 and a low (mechanical) fastest flash sync of 1/50, both limitations of its unique design which was developed specifically to enable such a small body, so it seamlessly goes to full electronic to achieve higher speeds. And as you say, a particular characteristic is that it will close in response to shock when the camera is not powered up. I don't think it's intentional, just a side effect of the design (which also doesn't have a first curtain at all, by the way, so it's always the second curtain (that ends exposures) which you see when that happens.

Click to expand...

I have such a shutter right in front of me, from a GM1 that I recently cannibalized for parts. Yes, it has indeed only one curtain -- I did not even notice this before you mentioned it. And I can shake it open and close. There is a tiny motor (with 4 pins) moving the blades, it obviously needs power to stay put. Must be either a twin rotary solenoid, or a fast step motor. Fascinating, these little cameras...

Thanks for that interesting info. You're much more technically adept than me, that's for sure - but I'm surprised and somewhat chuffed that I actually got my previous post about the GM series shutter pretty much right!! :-D And yes, they are fascinating (sadly for me in a way, I find ANY camera fascinating....)!

First shot overexposed on Oly P5

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