Film development

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jrk

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Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
 
I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.
I have one of those cameras somewhere. And it’s an original! Medium format has advantages, and will likely deliver images that are less disappointing to digital shooters.

You don’t need a darkroom, just a film developing tank with reel to wind the film around it. Chemicals are readily available and easy to work with.

I would only shoot black and white film, otherwise you need excellent temperature control to get good results with color.

Putting the film on the reel does require absolute darkness (unless you find orthochromatic film which can be done under a safelight). Some folks use a specially made bag for that purpose. This does take some practice to get right, as you can’t see what you are doing and have to do everything by feel.

Then you need to scan the negatives once they are dry. Perhaps others have suggestions.
 
Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
You don't need a darkroom, just a changing bag. B&W development is pretty easy and there is lots of useful info on the internet and apps for timing development.
 
Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
For film developing, you really don't need a dark room. All you need is a dark closet or room at night. Also, if you plan to scan your negatives the following are all you need for developing.

1) a Dark closet or room. A bag to work in is helpful but optional.

2) the can or tank to agitate the film and chemicals.

3) the developing solution for your film.

4) A dark place to wash and hang up your 35mm film to dry.

Or, you can send it off to one of the online film developers. Or check with your local print shops and camera stores to find where they do film developing in your area.
 
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Here is my old tank and reel. There’s also an agitator that fits into the hole on top which has a thermometer.

Once you get the film in the tank, you can do everything else with the lights on.

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c4e56f63915c466ba0b86913782247ef.jpg

Here is my old tank and reel. There’s also an agitator that fits into the hole on top which has a thermometer.

Once you get the film in the tank, you can do everything else with the lights on.
I had one of those! Good times.
 
All the above. Get a tank, thermometer, a bag, the chemicals and a measuring cup (food one will do) . If you don’t have an old roll of film buy one to waste and practise loading onto the spool in the light, with your eyes closed, behind your back and under the bedclothes ( you can do this instead of getting a bag ). When confident, load your exposed film. Time and temperature with correct agitation are the keys to correct processing, followed by fixing and washing. Good luck.

Printing is another matter.
c4e56f63915c466ba0b86913782247ef.jpg

Here is my old tank and reel. There’s also an agitator that fits into the hole on top which has a thermometer.

Once you get the film in the tank, you can do everything else with the lights on.
 
All the above. Get a tank, thermometer, a bag, the chemicals and a measuring cup (food one will do) . If you don’t have an old roll of film buy one to waste and practise loading onto the spool in the light, with your eyes closed, behind your back and under the bedclothes ( you can do this instead of getting a bag ). When confident, load your exposed film. Time and temperature with correct agitation are the keys to correct processing, followed by fixing and washing. Good luck.
I used a small basement room, with lights off in the room outside, and shoved towels under the door. I'd wait for quite a while until I was sure my eyes adjusted to the darkness, and checked to see if any light was coming in.

I didn't practice loading, but it did take me a while to get the film on the spool the first time, especially when I was trying to avoid touching the emulsion.
Printing is another matter.
Yes, developing the negatives (assuming black and white) is trivial. What comes after is an art.
 
Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
Yes, as people have suggested, get yourself a developing tank and a changing bag, or, if you have a room in your dwelling that you can make light-tight, use that. If it has small windows, you can rig up removable covers without too much difficulty, and the right kind of draft-sealing tape round the doors can make them light tight. I used to have a downstairs bathroom I used for this. I also made a little U shaped bench that went over the WC to act as an enlarger table (a bit inconvenient if taken short whilst developing, but you can't have everything). If you decide to lightproof a room, then test it out by going in, shutting all the doors, turning off the light, waiting quarter of an hour and then see if you can detect any glimmers of light leaking through. If you can't, you should be OK.

Loading the tank can be tricky. Best to practice in the light first (you'll trash the film you use, but that's better than trashing an exposed film). When you've got the hang of it, try it in the dark. When you can load a film in the dark, you're ready to try with an exposed film. Once you load it in the tank and close the tank, you can do the rest in the light. First prepare your chemicals according to the instructions given. You need different sests of chemicals for B&W, colour negative and 'chromagenic' B&W (almost invariably C41 process) and colour reversal (almost invariably E-6). I would suggest going for chromagenic B&W (Ilford XP2 being the best known example) and colour negative, because you can use the same chemicals. An advantage of chromagenic film is that you can choose the ISO you use between about 50 and 1600 or so, so it's quite like using digital.

When you've mixed the chemicals, get them up to temperature in a water bath. PET soda bottles are fine for mixing and tempering the chemicals (wash them out first) and the water bath can just be in a sink, or you if you can find a suitable basin or bucket, use that. If you make it hold a lot of water, you can get it to the right temperature by adding hot or boilng water a bit at a time until the temperature is right (you need a thermometer, a modern digital kitchen thermometer is just fine). If you've got a lot of water it will hold the heat well enough to keep the temperature stable. If it does dip, you can add a bit more hot water to the bath.

Once the chemicals are up to temperature, you can process according to the instructions. You need somewhere to pour the used chemical. In the old days we used to empty them down the sink, but this is frowned on these days, so you'll need a container to empty into (if using one-shot processes) and find out where in your neighbourhood you can dispose of them. The final process is washing and drying. If you've kept your water bathe clean you can wash with that - it's a bad idea for the wash to be at a different temperature to the chemicals. Also, you might want to ad some 'rinse agent' to avoid drying marks. You can dry the film by hanging it up somewhere warm and dust free.

Now you have a strip of negatives. The question then is what you are going to do with them. You could get yourself an enlarger, some paper and developing dishes and go for that - or you could just scan them and do the rest digitally. That's probably the easier option these days, but you'll need some kind of scanner. For 120 a good flatbed scanner can work quite well, but is another expense.

Don't think that film is cheaper than digital, you'll find that it can eat up money very fast indeed.
 
The only reason not to is if you're pretty sure you're not going to do it more than a couple times. If that's the case, check out thedarkroom.com. They have a great reputation.

I was going to try them for my first two rolls of film getting back into film photography, but if I wanted two rolls developed with decent quality scanning, it was $50! That goes a long way toward buying the gear. Here's what you'll need, from memory, to develop B&W:
  • A changing bag or totally dark room. An interior bathroom, at night, with all the other lights in the house turned out can work. Otherwise, a changing bag is $20 or so.
  • A tank with reel. For you maybe an adjustable reel, if you might also do 35 mm some day
  • Developer. D-76 is a common one, easily found
  • Measuring cups. A few of them ranging from 1 cup to 1 quart would do. This is a good thing to find at a thrift shop
  • Fixer. I like TF5 from Photographer's Formulary
  • A thermometer
  • A timer (a digital watch with timer feature would work, or your smart phone's timer)
  • Film clips or those laundry clips with a hook on one end and big binder clips for the other end, to use as a weight
  • Archival negative sleeves. I have some extras for 2-1/4 film I'll probably never use I can mail to you if you just paypal me for postage.
  • Blunt tipped scissors and a can opener or film leader retriever (35 mm)
You can get really good quality 35 mm rangefinder for under $50, these days on ebay.

The Holga 120 is interesting. It is a junk camera with a junk lens, but since the negatives are so big, you can still do OK, and have fun doing it!

Anything I missed? I'll add to the list, if so.
 
Back a time, the used chemicals, when exhausted would be flushed down the toilet or poured down the sink. Not eco friendly these days. There must be a disposal method for small quantity amateur use.
The only reason not to is if you're pretty sure you're not going to do it more than a couple times. If that's the case, check out thedarkroom.com. They have a great reputation.

I was going to try them for my first two rolls of film getting back into film photography, but if I wanted two rolls developed with decent quality scanning, it was $50! That goes a long way toward buying the gear. Here's what you'll need, from memory, to develop B&W:
  • A changing bag or totally dark room. An interior bathroom, at night, with all the other lights in the house turned out can work. Otherwise, a changing bag is $20 or so.
  • A tank with reel. For you maybe an adjustable reel, if you might also do 35 mm some day
  • Developer. D-76 is a common one, easily found
  • Measuring cups. A few of them ranging from 1 cup to 1 quart would do. This is a good thing to find at a thrift shop
  • Fixer. I like TF5 from Photographer's Formulary
  • A thermometer
  • A timer (a digital watch with timer feature would work, or your smart phone's timer)
  • Film clips or those laundry clips with a hook on one end and big binder clips for the other end, to use as a weight
  • Archival negative sleeves. I have some extras for 2-1/4 film I'll probably never use I can mail to you if you just paypal me for postage.
  • Blunt tipped scissors and a can opener or film leader retriever (35 mm)
You can get really good quality 35 mm rangefinder for under $50, these days on ebay.

The Holga 120 is interesting. It is a junk camera with a junk lens, but since the negatives are so big, you can still do OK, and have fun doing it!

Anything I missed? I'll add to the list, if so.
 
Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
You don't need a darkroom to develop film. You need a developing tank, a dark place (or changing bag) to load it and chemicals.

If you have never loaded a film tank, it can tricky, but experience and proper technique can help. Loading 120 film is a bit more demanding than 35mm because it is more flexible. Here are some tips from my experience of loading film tanks over the years.

There are two basic types of film tanks, stainless steel and plastic. (There is also a sleeve tank by Kodak but they are extremely rare). Stainless steel tanks load mostly from the center. Plastic tanks can load from the center or the edge. Some plastic tanks that load from the edge have a ball bearing ratchet mechanism to assist loading.

Center loading takes feel and touch. If the film is center fed properly in the spiral grooves there is a constant loose feel. If that loose feel is gone, you have cross loaded the film. If you cross load you may lose some frames where the film touch.

Loading a plastic reel from the edge requires a perfectly dry reel. One drop of water will increase the friction that makes it impossible to continue. That brings up a possible problem when using a changing bag. The perspiration from your arms may increase the humidity inside the bag that makes edge loading difficult, especially on a hot summer day. I have had to abort loading in such cases.
 
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The Holga 120 is interesting. It is a junk camera with a junk lens, but since the negatives are so big, you can still do OK, and have fun doing it!

Anything I missed? I'll add to the list, if so.
I know the Holga is a piece of junk, that's why I'm really excited to try it. I've seen some really interesting results people have gotten with the camera simply due to the very nature of the camera with its cheap plastic and light leaks.
 
Yeah, I know this isn't a digital camera question but I'm sure some folks here would be able to make some suggestions.

I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
For something basic, Dodds Camera. Be prepared to scan your own negatives. They only give you back 2-4MB thumbnails on a CD along with your negatives for about $12.00. If you want prints or bigger/better quality files on the CD, the price goes up.
 
Back a time, the used chemicals, when exhausted would be flushed down the toilet or poured down the sink. Not eco friendly these days. There must be a disposal method for small quantity amateur use.
If you look at the tutorial videos online, they always say to dispose of the chemicals properly, and just leave it at that.

Translation: They're not doing it. They're rinsing them down the sink.

I read the labeling on some chemicals I mixed up yesterday. It said to contact my local water treatment facility for instructions on how to dispose of the chemicals. Then what, they'll have their eye on me? They need to do a little better than that.

I bet they have a real plan for that in Europe, instead of just: "Do the right thing, wink-wink."
 
.

The Holga 120 is interesting. It is a junk camera with a junk lens, but since the negatives are so big, you can still do OK, and have fun doing it!

Anything I missed? I'll add to the list, if so.
I know the Holga is a piece of junk, that's why I'm really excited to try it. I've seen some really interesting results people have gotten with the camera simply due to the very nature of the camera with its cheap plastic and light leaks.
Try the next step, with something like a used Yashicamat or Rolleicord. You'll be AMAZED at how good the images are, when shot through a proper lens. They easily blow away an image from a 50 year newer 35 mm camera.

Maybe stretch a bit and get a used Mamiya or Fuji rangefinder?

I saw the light, but decided to stick with 35mm, because I'm never going to make enlargements big enough that the superior resolution will really matter. The main advantage is in the ability to crop out a LOT of the image, and still have more negative to work with.
 
.

The Holga 120 is interesting. It is a junk camera with a junk lens, but since the negatives are so big, you can still do OK, and have fun doing it!

Anything I missed? I'll add to the list, if so.
I know the Holga is a piece of junk, that's why I'm really excited to try it. I've seen some really interesting results people have gotten with the camera simply due to the very nature of the camera with its cheap plastic and light leaks.
Try the next step, with something like a used Yashicamat or Rolleicord. You'll be AMAZED at how good the images are, when shot through a proper lens. They easily blow away an image from a 50 year newer 35 mm camera.

Maybe stretch a bit and get a used Mamiya or Fuji rangefinder?

I saw the light, but decided to stick with 35mm, because I'm never going to make enlargements big enough that the superior resolution will really matter. The main advantage is in the ability to crop out a LOT of the image, and still have more negative to work with.
I also have a Nikon FM2n with the 50mm and 105mm lenses. I picked them up several years ago but haven't really used them. I plan to take both the Holga and Nikon out over the next couple days and shoot a couple rolls of film. Should be lots of fun!
 
I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be.
Developed or processed? Prints are developed and film is processed into usable negatives or positives/slides
 
I recently purchased a very expensive Holga camera ;-) that shoots 120 film. My problem is, I don't have a darkroom in my house and don't know where a good place to get film developed would be.
Developed or processed? Prints are developed and film is processed into usable negatives or positives/slides
Hmmm? Both use chemicals called developer.

That said, I would think prints have more processing steps than using the developer in that prints must first also be exposed.
 
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