This month through your adapted lenses -- July 2019

What’s the full name of the lens? Any photo? I think it’s kind of nice to have lens
Tokina AT-X SD II 100-300 f4

Mine's in Minolta SR mount, but there's a newer version made for AF (AT-X 340 AF II or something like that) which I believe are the same optically. The AF versions cost more and IMO have a nicer and little bit more modern look.


Not small - next to the Canon 200\4 for comparison which is hardly fair but it's a common lens that should be familiar to many.

--
"Banal ideas cannot be rescued by beautiful execution" - Sol Lewitt
 

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What’s the full name of the lens? Any photo? I think it’s kind of nice to have lens
Tokina AT-X SD II 100-300 f4

Mine's in Minolta SR mount, but there's a newer version made for AF (AT-X 340 AF II or something like that) which I believe are the same optically. The AF versions cost more and IMO have a nicer and little bit more modern look.


Not small - next to the Canon 200\4 for comparison which is hardly fair but it's a common lens that should be familiar to many.

--
"Banal ideas cannot be rescued by beautiful execution" - Sol Lewitt
That’s some chunk of glass! F4 300mm is something. The AF was for A-mount? Might be interesting. MF 300mm is already a bit into the “wild MF” but i do it with the Vario.
 
This is my favorite lens of all in spite of all the visible aberrations, limitations, etc. It's totally NOT deserving top spot. But it does. I am not sure why. Mine doesn't get that much onion ring. Double check the very edges of the lens rear and front element. Since these are very old and usually not receiving the proper love and attention, and pampering and patting and soft words they deserve, many times they accumulate dust in the very outer edges near the rim. And this exacerbates any onion ring (well, only out ring). If it's not that, then may be differences between the few versions of PF 58 1.4
Looking at the front and rear elements, I could see a few specks/tiny spots, but nothing around the edges. Just to be thorough, I took a cleaning tissue and ran it around the edge; it came up clean. So I dunno.

Another example (especially on the left/right edges of the bush in the center background, at 100%):

Pen-F, MC Rokkor-PF 58/1.4
Pen-F, MC Rokkor-PF 58/1.4
This lens, if you stop down to 1.6 improves quite a bit too. But I like that it's soft at 1.4. Then I don't need to constantly swap lenses, as it becomes prety sharp by f2.8 and vignetting mostly gone.
Yeah, I only saw the prominent rings when shooting wide-open; stopping down a notch or two cleared them out.

I was mostly just amused at finding the soap-bubble look on the 58/1.4 after people praising lenses like the Trioplan for it. Heck, for artistic reasons, I'd like to see if I could duplicate the effect in the above pic (the pinpoint source surrounded by the ring) at a larger size across more of the frame. Probably gonna have to wait for another day, though...
Did you try using it for portraits (or rather, people) around twilight or night with low light illumination? Make the noise high, to see if you like the rendering. I use this lens most when it's night and there's all kind of dim lights around. For me it shines at night with low ambient light.
Honestly, I don't really do portraits; I'm uncomfortable photographing strangers, and my family is pretty camera-shy. ^^;; I'll have to give the low-light a try, though.

As I said, I was disappointed the prior time I tried the lens with landscapes, and I wasn't impressed with the distance shooting I did with it this time either; it seemed to work best with subjects at short-to-medium range (around 10-15 meters, or less), and single subjects instead of a broad field. Has that been your experience?

--
Flickr at https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_prof67/ Warning: Heavy Learning in progress.
 
I know the AF version is available in a-mount, as I've kept an eye out for it, but it's more common in Nikon and Canon I think. It's also cheaper in those mounts as the lens stables had more alternatives than a-mount did I believe.

There's also a Tokina 300mm f4 prime that I would very much like, but they're not very common and since I have this one already it's hard to justify.
 
That seems like a really poor interpretation by On1 in that image. My initial reaction was just that the saturation was way too high, but when you zoom in it's more than that.
Posterization is the best way I can think of to describe it; it looks like On1 is losing the subtle shadings in areas of high saturation, crushing a batch of similar values down to a single color.
It seems like something that should be fixable via import settings or something, shouldn't it?
I don't think it's import-related; I'm using On1 in 'browse' mode - you navigate to any folder on your drive and just start working on any images there, with edits and metadata stored in a sidecar file. So there's no importing involved. (That's one of the workflow aspects I really like about On1; I can put my image triage folder on a cloud sync/storage service like Dropbox and edit from any machine, with the edits synced between machines via the sidecar files.)

I did try resetting all edits on that image, which should have brought it back to base state; but the posterization was still there.
That's hardly an acceptable result for an established product!
Absolutely! I really should send a support report in. :(
I tried it and Capture1 a while back. They were ok, but of the two I preferred Capture1, for similar reasons you mention. At the time I was checking out various software's noise reduction and sharpening capacity, but in the end I stuck with LR as I get a decent discount on the subscription through work.
For me, it's not the subscription price; I've spent more buying On1 and Capture One 12 than I would have paid on a LR subscription. I just really, really dislike a setup where access to my work is controlled by a subscription. (I know you can still export an edited version from the LR catalog if you let the subscription lapse, but from what I've heard you can't change or fix any of the edits, so that's not much different from exporting a TIFF and throwing the RAW file away.)
 
This is my favorite lens of all in spite of all the visible aberrations, limitations, etc. It's totally NOT deserving top spot. But it does. I am not sure why. Mine doesn't get that much onion ring. Double check the very edges of the lens rear and front element. Since these are very old and usually not receiving the proper love and attention, and pampering and patting and soft words they deserve, many times they accumulate dust in the very outer edges near the rim. And this exacerbates any onion ring (well, only out ring). If it's not that, then may be differences between the few versions of PF 58 1.4
Looking at the front and rear elements, I could see a few specks/tiny spots, but nothing around the edges. Just to be thorough, I took a cleaning tissue and ran it around the edge; it came up clean. So I dunno.

Another example (especially on the left/right edges of the bush in the center background, at 100%):

Pen-F, MC Rokkor-PF 58/1.4
Pen-F, MC Rokkor-PF 58/1.4
This lens, if you stop down to 1.6 improves quite a bit too. But I like that it's soft at 1.4. Then I don't need to constantly swap lenses, as it becomes prety sharp by f2.8 and vignetting mostly gone.
Yeah, I only saw the prominent rings when shooting wide-open; stopping down a notch or two cleared them out.

I was mostly just amused at finding the soap-bubble look on the 58/1.4 after people praising lenses like the Trioplan for it. Heck, for artistic reasons, I'd like to see if I could duplicate the effect in the above pic (the pinpoint source surrounded by the ring) at a larger size across more of the frame. Probably gonna have to wait for another day, though...
Did you try using it for portraits (or rather, people) around twilight or night with low light illumination? Make the noise high, to see if you like the rendering. I use this lens most when it's night and there's all kind of dim lights around. For me it shines at night with low ambient light.
Honestly, I don't really do portraits; I'm uncomfortable photographing strangers, and my family is pretty camera-shy. ^^;; I'll have to give the low-light a try, though.

As I said, I was disappointed the prior time I tried the lens with landscapes, and I wasn't impressed with the distance shooting I did with it this time either; it seemed to work best with subjects at short-to-medium range (around 10-15 meters, or less), and single subjects instead of a broad field. Has that been your experience?
I like it at f1.4 as it is. I put auto-iso and eithe ruse it with Techa Art Pro for AF and shot ideally from 6 feet+. I use to get shots of many kids birthday parties and of parents. I also shootnit Manual. I never disappoints, people love the candid photos it makes. I just let them try it out, show the how to focus, a 5 seconds explanation. I also let kids take photos. I then share the photos with them on WhatsApp. Now, it may be the “vibe” of that lens, or the mood. It’s all super serious dark matte black, everything looks serious about it. I just like the Minolta colors wh n people and low light is around. The Carl Zeiss i have 1.8, 1.4, many others. I am not sure what this lens have, I just like the pictures and colors
 
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For my A7x cameras I never got round to getting a FE 16-35 (f4 or f2.8) except for when I borrowed one for a series of video shoots, but never took any photos at the UWA end so I've always wondered what a UWA can do. A while back I asked about this Tokina 17/3.5 and the Tamron variant, but ended up holding back.

A few weeks ago a copy of this lens popped up on eBay fully boxed that was cheaper than the norm, its in a CY mount (something I prefer as I do prefer to use my CY lenses) so I'm guessing this isn't the top flavour with people normally opting for Canon FD or Pentax-K mounts.

 A7iii @ f8 or f16
A7iii @ f8 or f16

A light pulled down of highlights as the sun as glaring. It's not bad at all. Contrast and colours are decent. Some funkiness going on at the edges which I can put up with. There was some purple fringing towards the sides which when removed left some halo edges (see top of trees on right and top of buildings on left). There is a little distortion.
 
For my A7x cameras I never got round to getting a FE 16-35 (f4 or f2.8) except for when I borrowed one for a series of video shoots, but never took any photos at the UWA end so I've always wondered what a UWA can do. A while back I asked about this Tokina 17/3.5 and the Tamron variant, but ended up holding back.

A few weeks ago a copy of this lens popped up on eBay fully boxed that was cheaper than the norm, its in a CY mount (something I prefer as I do prefer to use my CY lenses) so I'm guessing this isn't the top flavour with people normally opting for Canon FD or Pentax-K mounts.

A7iii @ f8 or f16
A7iii @ f8 or f16

A light pulled down of highlights as the sun as glaring. It's not bad at all. Contrast and colours are decent. Some funkiness going on at the edges which I can put up with. There was some purple fringing towards the sides which when removed left some halo edges (see top of trees on right and top of buildings on left). There is a little distortion.
There may be a lens clinically low distortion but not sure how much they cost. I think more than the best ever, UWA are a kind of photography in its own, very foreign to 28mm or lager focal lengths.

I have the 21mm Rokkor 2.8 (very well for such an ancient lens! 1960s But is the Minolta lens with more elements ever) and the CZ 18/4 Rollei (I think CY moved it to 3.5). ALL of these have minimal distortion in the form of moustache. And the corners are only very ok. But the most important thing with UWA is not the lens but how to shoot with it. Any minimal tilting and it’s a completely different perspective and shot
 
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Hi, all:

A few from the Apollo 11 exhibit at the Met. It is mainly photos and videos but they did have an interesting camera.

Fuji X-E1 & Nikkor 28/2.8 AIs

Iconic poster:





One of the several photo rooms which was amazingly free of traffic.



Hasselblad 70mm used for astronaut training, 1969. Nice Zeiss for good measure.



Kodak extra thin film magazine increased capacity from 12 to 200. This example was used on the Apollo 11 mission.



Regards,

Serge
 
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Post no new photos -- part 2 will be starting soon. Thank you.
 

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