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The OP is complaining about sharpness and your solution is a slower shutter speed?Why do you have the ISO set to 100? Try 400 or 800. Lower ss to 1/1000 or so. Experiment to get the best settings for the lighting.
Photo is underexposed.
For a test image, try a Siemens Star. That's a good subject to analyse camera motion. You don't have to fill the frame with it, just make sure it covers a few hundred pixels in each direction. Then post samples.I just tried several shots with the 1.4X TC. Shutters all at 1/2000 with SS and Mech and Stabilization on or off. I had no difference in any of the photos; I will get the monopod out to try that as well. I will say I did not compare photos without the TC this time. I elect not to share the images due to a subject as its boring as heck.



1/1000 is not a slow ss, it should be more than sufficient for the subject. Yes, what is shown is underexposed. If you want a faster ss than 1/1000, raising the iso will take care of that. He also has a static subject.The OP is complaining about sharpness and your solution is a slower shutter speed?Why do you have the ISO set to 100? Try 400 or 800. Lower ss to 1/1000 or so. Experiment to get the best settings for the lighting.
Photo is underexposed.
Also, we can't tell if it raw is underexposed or not by looking at the processed JPEG.
Jim
You took the words right out of my mouth.Try the lens without TC to see on the same setting if you can get sharp photos? I have never even tried 1.4x TC on FE 70-200 GM. I heard sharpness is not great but recently I have seen someone's copy has the great sharpness with 1.4x TC.
Otherwise I always leave EFC (electronic first curtain) and IBIS on my FE 100-400 GM with or without 1.4x TC in action type photos and I got great sharpness as you can see in my airshow photos. I did such with Canon lenses in the past and the same with Sony counterparts.
Yes, but I think we need to see an image with a static target to tell.Is it possible to get some kind of shutter shock at 1/2000th second? The slight halo adjacent the upper-part of the player looks like it.
Wow! Something new every day. And here I thought it was more or less confined to some mirrorless shooting around 1/60-1/250th. I actually got rid of one camera because of it (Panasonic GX8) which in other respects was a nice camera.Yes, but I think we need to see an image with a static target to tell.Is it possible to get some kind of shutter shock at 1/2000th second? The slight halo adjacent the upper-part of the player looks like it.
I thought the need to turn off stabilization when using a brace (tripod, whatever) were over with modern cameras?you shouldn't need stabilization at 1/2000th, with a monopod, try turning it off.
IBIS still causes problems in timelapses and occasionally single shots.I thought the need to turn off stabilization when using a brace (tripod, whatever) were over with modern cameras?you shouldn't need stabilization at 1/2000th, with a monopod, try turning it off.
Looks like focus error to me. Are you on Continuous AF, in a Tracking mode and not Tracking Wide? Also, shoot at f/8 and 1/1000-sec. for better DOF when using telephoto.
...nothing anywhere in the image is in focus. Therefore to my mind it is either an optical problem (like haze over the lens, defective glass, bad filter, etc) or, obviously much more likely camera movement.Looks like focus error to me. Are you on Continuous AF, in a Tracking mode and not Tracking Wide? Also, shoot at f/8 and 1/1000-sec. for better DOF when using telephoto.
It's not focus error.Looks like focus error to me. Are you on Continuous AF, in a Tracking mode and not Tracking Wide? Also, shoot at f/8 and 1/1000-sec. for better DOF when using telephoto.
What is it then?It's not focus error.Looks like focus error to me. Are you on Continuous AF, in a Tracking mode and not Tracking Wide? Also, shoot at f/8 and 1/1000-sec. for better DOF when using telephoto.
It appears to be shutter shock, or caused by some other short, abrupt movement.What is it then?It's not focus error.Looks like focus error to me. Are you on Continuous AF, in a Tracking mode and not Tracking Wide? Also, shoot at f/8 and 1/1000-sec. for better DOF when using telephoto.
Let us know how it turns out...faulty communication between camera and lens might be the answer. Be sure to test at different shutter speeds too.I'm going to test it again. This time making sure I connect it securely first to the lens then to the camera. I was reading a review that said you have to make sure it clicks and in that order.