Time To Get Rid Of The F-Stop—What Do We Call The Replacement

The same f-stop (more precisely, the same t-stop) results in the same exposure for all systems for a scene luminance and exposure time -- no one disputes this. At least, I've never read a post where someone disputed it.
When it comes to digital, what's important is the light coming though the lens and how it is represented in the resulting pixels. We care about results (angle of view and total light captured) Not how far back the sensor is from the lens, nor the light per unit area.
Agreed.
I care about the light per unit area anytime I want to make a change that does not increase or decrease the ISO. Total light varies by sensor size and different total light counts results in operating at different ISO levels. mm solves nothing and replaces f-stop with f-mm stops.

However, I really, REALLY will tell you you are right. I really don't have the energy to argue with Great Bustard. He knows his preferences, agenda, beliefs and I am just a normal forum user that is not very annoyed with neither f-mm stops nor f-stops, or using FoV for lenses and attaching a label that states for what sensor size to each lens, and working the conversion myself if I adapt it, or if the lens is sold for more than one sensor size camera.

It has trade offs, and depending on your point of view, you may like one or the other more. I love lenses and optics, and their designs. I like knowing a Zeiss is 50mm f1.4...regardless of where I use it. And knowing a Zeiss X FOV for FF and Zeiss X FOV M43 is likely a completely different optical design....Maybe it's just me.
 
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The better approach might be to rename the sensors

FF sensor: 0% mm "boost", 0+ f-stop boost (REFERENCE)

APSC sensor: ˜70% mm boost,

M43 sensors: 100% mm boost, +2 f-stop boost (two ticks higher)

The problem is not what's on the lens at all. It's the people that insist on using other sensor sizes or to be defined in terms of the kings of kinds, the size of sizes, the magnificent, ever-loved, insuperable rectangle of 36mm x 24mm (or diagonal).

I mean, I still don't understand why the plank constant isn't expressed in relation to the photographic constant of action.
What is the advantage of bringing the sensor size into the mix? In terms of the resulting image it isn't important.
So I can talk about lenses that are the same, as the same, and lenses that are different, differently. So that if I use one lens in a body with a different sensor size, I am not saved anything with FoV as it changes, and the same mm don't tell me about the DOF.
Why is it important to talk about a 50mm lens on a 2X crop body as being the same as a 50mm lens on a full frame? Those two lenses will give very different results.

If you are using the same lens on multiple bodies, then there's no advantage to calling the lens 50mm/80mm, instead of a 46.8°/29.9°

When the lens is used with multiple systems, you need to track specs for each system either way.

The reason we traditionally need to know about the sensor is to get the light per unit area into the sweet spot of the film's response curve.

With a car transmission we only need the ratio of input RPM to output RPM. We don't need to know the gear ratios of the intermediate gears.

With digital, we can treat the camera as a "black box". That makes the camera much easier to teach.
I do still tell the black box what aperture I want, be it in mm, f-stops or any other metric that may be wanted from me.
Yes. But if you tell the black box you want a 12mm aperture, you can use that same spec for any camera. If you say f/4, then you may need to do a conversion to get the same results from a different camera.
The photographer needs to know the angle of view, and aperture diameter. Those affect the final image uniformly the same, no matter what the sensor size.
Which DOF jump is much bigger, 1mm to 3mm or 3mm to 6mm, or 6mm to 9mm? Do I need to memorize the circle surface formula along with the value of PI? I can call the stops 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 too. But I want them to be spaced ideally in increasing proportions of surface of area. Or would you use a linear scale? And how more mm would allow me to double the shutter speed? You'd replace f-stops with mm-stops.
Aperture diameter varies the same as f/stop. The difference is that the f/stop is adjusted by the focal length.

In therms of DoF and the other factors, there's no difference.

The difference is when comparing to other cameras, which may have different sensor sizes.

If you want to match a shot that was taken with a 12.5mm aperture diameter, you need 12.5mm no mater what the sensor size.

If you are want to match a shot taken at f/4, you need to use a different f/stop if your camera has a different sensor size.

As things are now, we know that f/2.8 is a fast lens on a full frame, but not so "fast" on a small sensor. We know that f/11 is a not small enough to worry about diffraction on a full frame, but is small enough for a small sensor camera.
So long as all lenses are fixed or never used with a different sensor size. This also confuses a bit a lens optics. Now Zeiss may have a 60 degree wide angle Distagon, and another 60 degree Planar, why do lens makers need to always be changing designs? Lenses will be named the same, with absolutely different kinds of constructions of all sorts. Someone "discovers" the Zeiss 60 FOV FF is exactly similar to the 120 VOF M43. Which sensor size 60 FOV are you using on this shot?

I am not saying what you say doesn't make sense. I am saying, the camera can display mm and FOV or FL and f-stops, or any combination you like.
The issue is the same no matter how you label.

We know that the DoF of f/8 varies with sensor size.

On the other had a 40° angle of view and a 12mm aperture gives us the same DoF, same diffraction, and at the same shutter speed the same noise on all sensor sizes.
Yes. That's cool assuming you keep each lens to one sensor size always. And that you don't want to know anything about which optics you like, as that again requires talking about Equivalent DOFs and Equivalent aperture mm. And the Aperture mms also would not be spaced linearly, you'd have a progression more like f-milliliters scale.

Every lens would need to indicate FOV and also sensor size. And same exact lens for more than one mount, would need to state it's a different FoV when it's not.
Are there many lenses that get used with more than two sensor sizes?

If not, then you just need to label a lens with at most 2 values.

Ultimately, you can't get away with knowing the sensor size. But I don't dislike FoV/mm, I think it's just a trade off. It will also be incorrect to say it's an 80 FOV lens without also adding the sensor size. Would this make me mad? No. Does it has drawbacks, yes.
M43 lenses typically only get used on M43 bodies. You only need to label one angle of view.

Canon crop lenses only get used on Canon crop bodies. You only need to label one angle of view.

Canon full frame lenses can be used on either crop bodies or full frame. These would get 2 labels.

Yes, there are odd uses and exceptions, but these are he exception rather than the rule. If we are teaching a beginner how it works, we probably don't need to start with an explanation of what happens to Angle of View if you mount a full frame lens to an iPhone.
 
Nothing wrong with F/stop. It's part of photography history and tradition. It seems to me that there is too much emphasis on making everything "modern and up to date). Treat your F/stops with respect! :-D
The reason the word STOP is even in the name has to do with making it manually easier to use. The aperture adjustment included intents where the light was doubled or halved.
Yes.
With modern cameras there will be no need for manual stops.
A lot of people use their cameras in A mode. I'd say a majority of amateurs use that mode the most. I am ok with using mm-stops, inch-stops, or plank-stops, and choosing then to my choice. And even if the camera does it for me on my voice command, I need a label for each choice.
 
The same f-stop (more precisely, the same t-stop) results in the same exposure for all systems for a scene luminance and exposure time -- no one disputes this. At least, I've never read a post where someone disputed it.
When it comes to digital, what's important is the light coming though the lens and how it is represented in the resulting pixels. We care about results (angle of view and total light captured) Not how far back the sensor is from the lens, nor the light per unit area.
Agreed.
I care about the light per unit area anytime I want to make a change that does not increase or decrease the ISO. Total light varies by sensor size and different total light counts results in operating at different ISO levels. mm solves nothing and replaces f-stop with f-mm stops.
I'm not advocating replacing f-stops with aperture diameters.
However, I really, REALLY will tell you you are right. I really don't have the energy to argue with Great Bustard. He knows his preferences, agenda, beliefs and I am just a normal forum user that is not very annoyed with neither f-mm stops nor f-stops, or using FoV for lenses and attaching a label that states for what sensor size to each lens, and working the conversion myself if I adapt it, or if the lens is sold for more than one sensor size camera.
I'm fine with how lenses are labeled.
It has trade offs, and depending on your point of view, you may like one or the other more. I love lenses and optics, and their designs. I like knowing a Zeiss is 50mm f1.4...regardless of where I use it. And knowing a Zeiss X FOV for FF and Zeiss X FOV M43 is likely a completely different optical design....Maybe it's just me.
All Equivalence says is that, in terms of why we care about focal length and aperture, your Zeiss 50 / 1.4 on mFT is equivalent to a 100 / 2.8 on FF. There may well be other properties of your Zeiss 50 / 1.4 on mFT that are different from a 100 / 2.8 on FF (e.g., bokeh, sharpness, vignetting, flare, distortion, etc.), but in terms of focal length and aperture, they're equivalent.
 
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But in teaching the concept of metering and proper exposure, I would still need to explain the operation of a traditional camera using shutter speeds and f-stops, and what it all means.
It's actually easier to explain "aperture" as an opening with a variable diameter. Describing it in terms of the diameter of the opening is simpler than adding the complexity of expressing it in terms of a ratio to the focal length.
You'd still need to explain that when the FoV changes, then the light and DOF changes. And you'd still need to use mm-stops, and they will ask you how. I accept that f-stops INCREASING to refer to something becoming smaller, is anti-didactic and super unintuitive at first, and that the jumps are annoying.

I think it would have been easier to take as reference f1, and use the exponents, as opposed the square root. Labeling the f-stops by these exponents: 0, 1, 2, 3, .... n, each jump doubling the amount of light. I don't think a linear scale is good, since you need more granularity at the smaller openings and less wide open.
Now, if you insist on using a film workflow by starting with a fixed ISO, then you have placed an artificial limit on the range of exposures you want.
I consider ISO 800 when I could have used ISO 100 a huge mistake. And I can't dial in ISO 25. And if I could, I wish I knew more, since this most often just clips the highlights without telling me what it's doing until too late.
The Zone System (invented by Ansel Adams and perfected by Minor White) is also a good way to explain metering relative to how a meter operates (wanting to make everything 18 percent gray).
Of course, the zone system is based on the typical "S" shaped response curve of film. It's designed to get the most out of a medium that responds in that fashion. Digital doesn't work that way, and hence the zone system is addressing a problem that don't exist with digital.
Would you buy a new camera who's defect is that ISO 100 to 400 settings no longer work? All the other ISOs do and are proper. They only happen to have 8 times the noise.
In terms of metering at 18%, few in-camera meters work that way. Most now use fancy algorithms to try to match the scene and ISO setting. For a backlit model at the beach, the meter may very well decide to make the model look good, even though the overall image lightness will be much brighter than 18%. Yes, you can manually set the meter to meter in that old fashion, but then you are back to limiting yourself to working with the limits of 50 year old technology.
Or you can set your phone or Auto-Wrong camera to overexpose. That backlit model is a sign and the AI screwed it up. How many times per day do I correct my phone on this very forum, that things that I want to say some other nonsense word instead of the one I want to.
 
Why is it important to talk about a 50mm lens on a 2X crop body as being the same as a 50mm lens on a full frame? Those two lenses will give very different results.
As you can see here, when you change the sensor on the same lens, the lens doesn't change. It's the sensor area that changes.
 
Yeah, what does it come to mind to call a RATIO value between a distance and the diameter?

100 mm / 25 mm is what?

200 mm / 62.5 mm is what?

What does a 100 mm have to do with 50 mm for framing?

How about what does a 25mm and 50 mm has to do with exposure?

Here is a lens:

806003773_1.jpg


You set the aperture and you set the shutter speed with that.

What is the exposure with that lens? A simple question, exposure of what?
For a given light intensity, ie exposure, an aperture size is only relevant with the focal length.

See how a 6mm aperture gives the same exposure as a 6 inch aperture...

www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62524790
The same f-stop (more precisely, the same t-stop) results in the same exposure for all systems for a scene luminance and exposure time -- no one disputes this. At least, I've never read a post where someone disputed it.

However, for a given scene, perspective, framing, and exposure time, the wider aperture diameter will project more light onto the sensor. When comparing the same format, one can use either exposure or total light. When comparing different formats, total light is the relevant measure.
It's the sensor area that determines the differences in total light.

Compare a iPhone with a FF equivalent focal length of 28mm at its f/1.8.

iPhone7 - 4mm f/1.8 = 2.22mm aperture, light gathering area 3.87 square millimeters.

FF - 28mm f/1.8 = 15.56mm aperture, light gathering area 190.16 square millimeters.

The FF lens has 49 times the light gathering area.

iPhone 7 sensor area - 17.3 square millimeters.

FF sensor area - 860 square millimeters.

860/17.3 is also 49 times the area.

You only need to look at the differences in sensor area to know the difference in light gathering ability.

--
 
As things are now, we know that f/2.8 is a fast lens on a full frame, but not so "fast" on a small sensor.
f/2.8 on a small sensor is just as fast as f/2.8 on any other sensor size. It will give exactly the same light intensity and exposure settings.
 
It's the sensor area that determines the differences in total light.
For a given exposure, yes. But to get that given exposure, the larger sensor system *must* use a wider aperture diameter or a longer exposure time.
Compare a iPhone with a FF equivalent focal length of 28mm at its f/1.8.

iPhone7 - 4mm f/1.8 = 2.22mm aperture, light gathering area 3.87 square millimeters.

FF - 28mm f/1.8 = 15.56mm aperture, light gathering area 190.16 square millimeters.

The FF lens has 49 times the light gathering area.

iPhone 7 sensor area - 17.3 square millimeters.

FF sensor area - 860 square millimeters.

860/17.3 is also 49 times the area.

You only need to look at the differences in sensor area to know the difference in light gathering ability.
All the above is correct, but it is correlation as opposed to causation. The cause of more light being projected on the larger sensor is a wider aperture diameter for a given scene and exposure time or a longer exposure time for a given aperture diameter.

If you use the same aperture diameter and exposure time, the same total amount of light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene, *regardless* of the sensor size. Likewise, if you use a wider aperture diameter, more total light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene and exposure time, again, *regardless* of the sensor size.

So, again, i want to emphasize that your example above illustrates a correct correlation, but sensor area is not a correct model with regards to causation.
 
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When it comes to digital, what's important is the light coming though the lens and how it is represented in the resulting pixels. We care about results (angle of view and total light captured) Not how far back the sensor is from the lens, nor the light per unit area.
You want, regardless of sensor size, to get as much light as you can. You can get more light, given a sensor size, by using ISO 100. Therefore, you want ISO 100. Therefore, for any sensor size, you want the same amount of light intensity regardless of sensor size. The fact that a larger sensor receives more total light and results in lower noise, is because we have a larger area filled with the same ideal light intensity.

I never think: I want FF total light in my phone. Or I want iPhone sensor total light in my FF. But I always say, gosh, if I can, I want exactly the light intensity to be the max that doesn't blow highlights. And my hope it's ISO 100. And if on the phone, I may be at ISO 100. And do I want to halve the shutter to get more total light? Hell no. And neither do I.

I think it's confusing to pretend that we want to maximize total light. Everybody knows that if light is lower than an ideal light intensity, a larger sensor can help get a cleaner shot.
 
As things are now, we know that f/2.8 is a fast lens on a full frame, but not so "fast" on a small sensor.
f/2.8 on a small sensor is just as fast as f/2.8 on any other sensor size. It will give exactly the same light intensity and exposure settings.
The term "fast" is relative. For example, a first place runner in a high school track meet is faster than the second place runner, but not necessarily faster than a bronze medalist in the Olympics.

So, while f/2.8 may be considered "fast" within a format, it doesn't really make sense to say, for example, that f/2.8 on mFT is "faster than" f/4 on FF, when f/4 on FF does what f/2 on mFT does.
 
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The equivalence fanatics can...
I don't think of myself as a fanatic, but you appear to be a denier.
Nothing in that post denies anything.
Your post strongly implies that equivalence equates to fanaticism, which in turn equates to equivalence denial.
AFAIK, the concept of equivalence is not being promoted or used by the photographic industry in general. It seems to only be promoted by a few, some on these forums.

Therefore equivalence seems to be promoted only by a small cult who are very emphatic in their promotion which may or may not be equivalent to fanaticism.
The discussion about Photography Equivalence and Millimeter Absolutism would be equivalent (pun intended) to one side arguing Foreign Exchange Rates are a useless concept, with the other side arguing that Yuans and Dollars are the same.
Please re-read.
"So on my micro 43 system, I'd say f2.0.

And the equivalence fanatics would say 4 Quivers."


Enough said.
 
It's the sensor area that determines the differences in total light.
For a given exposure, yes. But to get that given exposure, the larger sensor system *must* use a wider aperture diameter or a longer exposure time.
Compare a iPhone with a FF equivalent focal length of 28mm at its f/1.8.

iPhone7 - 4mm f/1.8 = 2.22mm aperture, light gathering area 3.87 square millimeters.

FF - 28mm f/1.8 = 15.56mm aperture, light gathering area 190.16 square millimeters.

The FF lens has 49 times the light gathering area.

iPhone 7 sensor area - 17.3 square millimeters.

FF sensor area - 860 square millimeters.

860/17.3 is also 49 times the area.

You only need to look at the differences in sensor area to know the difference in light gathering ability.
All the above is correct, but it is correlation as opposed to causation. The cause of more light being projected on the larger sensor is a wider aperture diameter for a given scene and exposure time or a longer exposure time for a given aperture diameter.

If you use the same aperture diameter and exposure time, the same total amount of light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene, *regardless* of the sensor size. Likewise, if you use a wider aperture diameter, more total light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene and exposure time, again, *regardless* of the sensor size.

So, again, i want to emphasize that your example above illustrates a correct correlation, but sensor area is not a correct model with regards to causation.
Which is just a lot of words to say a FF sensor is 49 times larger than a iPhone sensor.
 
No need to replace the F-Stop, people just need to accept that Sensor Size can be measured in stops (and commonly has been measured that way for decades).

Image Noise is a measurement of exposure.
 
It's the sensor area that determines the differences in total light.
For a given exposure, yes. But to get that given exposure, the larger sensor system *must* use a wider aperture diameter or a longer exposure time.
Compare a iPhone with a FF equivalent focal length of 28mm at its f/1.8.

iPhone7 - 4mm f/1.8 = 2.22mm aperture, light gathering area 3.87 square millimeters.

FF - 28mm f/1.8 = 15.56mm aperture, light gathering area 190.16 square millimeters.

The FF lens has 49 times the light gathering area.

iPhone 7 sensor area - 17.3 square millimeters.

FF sensor area - 860 square millimeters.

860/17.3 is also 49 times the area.

You only need to look at the differences in sensor area to know the difference in light gathering ability.
All the above is correct, but it is correlation as opposed to causation. The cause of more light being projected on the larger sensor is a wider aperture diameter for a given scene and exposure time or a longer exposure time for a given aperture diameter.

If you use the same aperture diameter and exposure time, the same total amount of light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene, *regardless* of the sensor size. Likewise, if you use a wider aperture diameter, more total light will be projected on the sensor for a given scene and exposure time, again, *regardless* of the sensor size.

So, again, i want to emphasize that your example above illustrates a correct correlation, but sensor area is not a correct model with regards to causation.
Which is just a lot of words to say a FF sensor is 49 times larger than a iPhone sensor.
In a word, no. You see, if the iPhone lens has the same aperture diameter as the FF lens, then, for a given scene and exposure time, the same amount of light will be projected on the sensor, despite the differences in sensor size. Likewise, if the FF lens had the same aperture diameter as the iPhone lens, then, again for a given scene and exposure time, the same amount of light will be projected on the sensor, despite the differences in sensor size.

So, no, what I wrote was absolutely not "just a lot of words to say a FF sensor is 49 times larger than a iPhone sensor" -- it was three short paragraphs to explain why the cause is the aperture diameter, not the sensor size.
 
The better approach might be to rename the sensors

FF sensor: 0% mm "boost", 0+ f-stop boost (REFERENCE)

APSC sensor: ˜70% mm boost,

M43 sensors: 100% mm boost, +2 f-stop boost (two ticks higher)

The problem is not what's on the lens at all. It's the people that insist on using other sensor sizes or to be defined in terms of the kings of kinds, the size of sizes, the magnificent, ever-loved, insuperable rectangle of 36mm x 24mm (or diagonal).

I mean, I still don't understand why the plank constant isn't expressed in relation to the photographic constant of action.
What is the advantage of bringing the sensor size into the mix? In terms of the resulting image it isn't important.
So I can talk about lenses that are the same, as the same, and lenses that are different, differently. So that if I use one lens in a body with a different sensor size, I am not saved anything with FoV as it changes, and the same mm don't tell me about the DOF.
Why is it important to talk about a 50mm lens on a 2X crop body as being the same as a 50mm lens on a full frame? Those two lenses will give very different results.
Maybe because we are actually talking about the same exact lens? I get your point, and don't dislike FOV. However, this could be a choice in the camera display...user selectable. I don't think the FOV depends on the lens but on the lens + actual camera. This makes sense to anyone getting started, especially since mm will confuse them even more. However, I am not sure lenses need to stop saying MM. It's actual fact that is very useful, and describes properties of the lens. Can this book be translated into two other languages?
If you are using the same lens on multiple bodies, then there's no advantage to calling the lens 50mm/80mm, instead of a 46.8°/29.9°
The lens is certain mm in FL regardless of the system. It'd be the same to talk about equivalent FOV and equivalent FL for me with a little practice. Not sure others.
When the lens is used with multiple systems, you need to track specs for each system either way.
Yes.
The reason we traditionally need to know about the sensor is to get the light per unit area into the sweet spot of the film's response curve.

With a car transmission we only need the ratio of input RPM to output RPM. We don't need to know the gear ratios of the intermediate gears.

With digital, we can treat the camera as a "black box". That makes the camera much easier to teach.
I do still tell the black box what aperture I want, be it in mm, f-stops or any other metric that may be wanted from me.
Yes. But if you tell the black box you want a 12mm aperture, you can use that same spec for any camera. If you say f/4, then you may need to do a conversion to get the same results from a different camera.
Not really. That you use that example illustrates the point. How do you set 12mm aperture on a phone? You can't. But you also have a point. What does f2.8 means in an iPhone if I don't know how it affects how much is OOF in a scene. The mm at least tell you a lot more (without needing to convert).

So I think f-mm would work though too. Not sure of the implications to others. However, you are missing a critical point: NOT ALL APERTURES ARE ROUND. I have a triangular Rollei lens. How to I measure it? Do I now start using equivalent mm for each type of lens? What about square apertures? I think the stops are calibrated so they actually measure light doubling and halving at the marked stops. In mm, what would that mean? Equivalent f-mms? If in auto-mode, the camera can do whatever it wants...it still relies on being able to double or half. Does the camera need to know the f-stops then, without me knowing? And then what, it displays them in equivalent f-mms to me and on Exif?
The photographer needs to know the angle of view, and aperture diameter. Those affect the final image uniformly the same, no matter what the sensor size.
Which DOF jump is much bigger, 1mm to 3mm or 3mm to 6mm, or 6mm to 9mm? Do I need to memorize the circle surface formula along with the value of PI? I can call the stops 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 too. But I want them to be spaced ideally in increasing proportions of surface of area. Or would you use a linear scale? And how more mm would allow me to double the shutter speed? You'd replace f-stops with mm-stops.
Aperture diameter varies the same as f/stop. The difference is that the f/stop is adjusted by the focal length.
If it where a perfect circle.
In therms of DoF and the other factors, there's no difference.
The characteristics of blur and soft/hard focus are affected by aperture shape. Again, I am not arguing against the idea of mm. I am just pointing how there are trade offs where you didn't think there were any.
The difference is when comparing to other cameras, which may have different sensor sizes.

If you want to match a shot that was taken with a 12.5mm aperture diameter, you need 12.5mm no mater what the sensor size.
So what is the correct scale for all cameras and sensor sizes? Do we start with f1 on FF? And measure equivalent f-mm for that? We are saving a division...for all the trouble? And the mm may not even be mm, due to aperture shapes. I still like f-mms. I think until I started using manual aperture lenses, I did not even understood the f-stop implications "physically". My canon metered wide open, and the body changed the aperture. Nothing ever happened. With manual lenses, I had no problem with f-stops. But mm would bemore visual. However, it's just a division of FL and aperture. However, that division is not stated by the lens. The aperture is usually not a circle, only wide open it is.
If you are want to match a shot taken at f/4, you need to use a different f/stop if your camera has a different sensor size.
Yes.
As things are now, we know that f/2.8 is a fast lens on a full frame, but not so "fast" on a small sensor. We know that f/11 is a not small enough to worry about diffraction on a full frame, but is small enough for a small sensor camera.
So long as all lenses are fixed or never used with a different sensor size. This also confuses a bit a lens optics. Now Zeiss may have a 60 degree wide angle Distagon, and another 60 degree Planar, why do lens makers need to always be changing designs? Lenses will be named the same, with absolutely different kinds of constructions of all sorts. Someone "discovers" the Zeiss 60 FOV FF is exactly similar to the 120 VOF M43. Which sensor size 60 FOV are you using on this shot?

I am not saying what you say doesn't make sense. I am saying, the camera can display mm and FOV or FL and f-stops, or any combination you like.
The issue is the same no matter how you label.
Exactly. The 50mm lens doesn't become 100mm, it is only equivalent. A $1 bill isn't $20 pesos. The FOV is a property that does not belong to the lens, and therefore, it's a 28 degrees lens does not even exist. The diameter of the triangle does not exist. And so on.
We know that the DoF of f/8 varies with sensor size.

On the other had a 40° angle of view and a 12mm aperture gives us the same DoF, same diffraction, and at the same shutter speed the same noise on all sensor sizes.
Yes. That's cool assuming you keep each lens to one sensor size always. And that you don't want to know anything about which optics you like, as that again requires talking about Equivalent DOFs and Equivalent aperture mm. And the Aperture mms also would not be spaced linearly, you'd have a progression more like f-milliliters scale.

Every lens would need to indicate FOV and also sensor size. And same exact lens for more than one mount, would need to state it's a different FoV when it's not.
Are there many lenses that get used with more than two sensor sizes?
It depends. Most, will never mix them. It's whatever came with the camera, or most often just 1 or 2 more lenses of the same system.
If not, then you just need to label a lens with at most 2 values.
Agreed. FOV and (real) mm or mm and equivalent mm (maybe).
Ultimately, you can't get away with knowing the sensor size. But I don't dislike FoV/mm, I think it's just a trade off. It will also be incorrect to say it's an 80 FOV lens without also adding the sensor size. Would this make me mad? No. Does it has drawbacks, yes.
M43 lenses typically only get used on M43 bodies. You only need to label one angle of view.
Tell that to millions of adapted lenses, from TV, film, rangefinders, projectors. For the average person, I agree.
Canon crop lenses only get used on Canon crop bodies. You only need to label one angle of view.

Canon full frame lenses can be used on either crop bodies or full frame. These would get 2 labels.

Yes, there are odd uses and exceptions, but these are he exception rather than the rule. If we are teaching a beginner how it works, we probably don't need to start with an explanation of what happens to Angle of View if you mount a full frame lens to an iPhone.
What prevents you from teaching in terms of FoV? I think you want something different. That for the vast majority, a FOV equivalence and equivalent f-mm would be easier to move them between sensor sizes. And I agree. From that perspective. I'd also be nice the Imperial units dissapeared tomorrow (for me), that everyone spoke only english, and that everone used USD. But life, and for physical reasons too, it's a little more complicated.
 
Yes, if you are shooting film, it's important to be able to get the same exposure independent of film format. However, once you are in digital, aren't the results more important than the implementation detail of light per unit area on the sensor?
light per unit are on the sensor is the counterpart of ISO. Given sensor size, nobody cares about total light any more. And if they could chose any size, the optimum sensor size -if it where a gift you could ask to the Lamp Genius- would require you to know exactly what light intensity there is in that scene.
 
Which is just a lot of words to say a FF sensor is 49 times larger than a iPhone sensor.
In a word, no. You see, if the iPhone lens has the same aperture diameter as the FF lens, then, for a given scene and exposure time, the same amount of light will be projected on the sensor, despite the differences in sensor size.
No, it depends on the FL too. And the "same amount of light" you are reffering to is light intensity. Suppose I put a 50mm lens on a FF camera. It captures X amount of light. Move that lens to M43. Now the sensor is 1/4 the size. The light cone is the same. Now the M43 has 1/4 the light because the other 3/4 just wasted.
Likewise, if the FF lens had the same aperture diameter as the iPhone lens, then, again for a given scene and exposure time, the same amount of light will be projected on the sensor, despite the differences in sensor size.
See above.
So, no, what I wrote was absolutely not "just a lot of words to say a FF sensor is 49 times larger than a iPhone sensor" -- it was three short paragraphs to explain why the cause is the aperture diameter, not the sensor size.
If the light only depended on aperture, we wouldn't have had the need to send Hubble to space. Unfortunately, it also depends on the AoV, and on how much of the projected light hits the sensor. In terms of relative intensity, at the same FL, we agree. But it's not pickiness on my side. Unless you add those other factors, you may have a 1mm aperture, and one photo look black, and the other snow white, or anything in between, and again varing even more depending on sensor size relative to the light cone.
 
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Yes, if you are shooting film, it's important to be able to get the same exposure independent of film format. However, once you are in digital, aren't the results more important than the implementation detail of light per unit area on the sensor?
light per unit are on the sensor is the counterpart of ISO.
More precisely, ISO assigns a lightness for a given exposure.
Given sensor size, nobody cares about total light any more.
For a given sensor size, the exposure is proportional to the total amount of light projected on the sensor, so it doesn't matter. But for different formats, the distinction is central.
And if they could chose any size, the optimum sensor size -if it where a gift you could ask to the Lamp Genius- would require you to know exactly what light intensity there is in that scene.
I'm not sure what that means. However, I just did the following experiment: I set the camera to f/2.8 Auto ISO. The camera chose 1/40 ISO 1600. I then set f/5.6. The camera chose 1/40 ISO 6400 -- one fourth the exposure and one fourth the total light projected on the sensor.

So, with regards to how the camera operates, it doesn't matter whether we go by exposure or total light -- if we use one fourth the exposure or total light, then we use 4x the ISO setting to achieve the same lightness. But the photo is still made with one fourth the light, and thus it will be [more or less] twice as noisy.

In other words, comparing within a format, exposure or total light -- same difference. But between formats, total light is the relevant metric.

With regards to your other post downthread, in response to me saying:

If the iPhone lens has the same aperture diameter as the FF lens, then, for a given scene and exposure time, the same amount of light will be projected on the sensor, despite the differences in sensor size.

you said:

No, it depends on the FL too.

I specified "for a given scene".

And the "same amount of light" you are reffering to is light intensity.

No -- I meant the same total amount of light, not the light intensity.

Suppose I put a 50mm lens on a FF camera. It captures X amount of light. Move that lens to M43. Now the sensor is 1/4 the size. The light cone is the same. Now the M43 has 1/4 the light because the other 3/4 just wasted.

This is a different example than what I was discussing (again, "for a given scene"). However, your example is also valid. If we compare different scenes in the manner you describe, then the sensor "sees" 4x as much of the scene as the 50mm lens on mFT and thus "sees" 4x as much light (for a given aperture diameter and exposure time).

One would be tempted to say that the sensor is merely cropping the projected image, but we could be using two different 50mm lenses, the mFT lens having half the image circle as the FF lens, and the same will hold true even though nothing is being cropped.

Anyway, the whole deal is spelled out in more detail here.

P.S.: My son just read this and said, "Dad, you're talking to a bunch of other nerds, aren't you?" I said, "Yeah..." ;-)
 
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