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Gotcha. Thanks.I was talking American paper sizes: A is 8.5x11in, B is 11x17, C is 17x22, D is 22x34, and E is 34x44.Which particular B size exceeds such threshold? I would have considered B0 a fairly large size print compared to perhaps a typical B6 for a family snap.More important for some people than others. For family snaps printed on B-size paper, no big deal. For D-size pictures on which the photographer's reputation depends, something to watch out for.Thanks Jim. Important findings. Not such a "non-issue".I brought the raw file into ACR, and made copies with no shadow push (for all), and 2, 3, 3.5, 4.5, and 5.5 stops of exposure push. I printed them out at 180ppi on an Epson P800 on Photo Glossy paper.
The bands were visible with the naked eye under desk lamp illumination in all cases. In no case were they sufficiently benign that I'd consider selling a print with that kind of artifact.
So it doesn't take heroic pushes to make the banding visible. +2 EV of exposure alone with do it, if you're printing fairly large.
Jim
Jim
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_size#Standardized_American_paper_sizes
Jim
If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window? You're better off using a fill flash. Expose/meter for the outside window and use the fill flash to illuminate your subject.So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
Might be desired and very relevant to intent.If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window?So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
You're better off using a fill flash. Expose/meter for the outside window and use the fill flash to illuminate your subject.
If I was trying to make the "view" stand out, the interior would have been much darker & outside perfectly exposed. Having things balanced does not hit the goal of drawing the eye to the windows.Might be desired and very relevant to intent.If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window?So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
For example:
Interior shots for property sales
![]()
Nice View
vs
The realtor preferred the interior to stand out and to also allow the person seeing it to get a feel for the view.If I was trying to make the "view" stand out, the interior would have been much darker & outside perfectly exposed.Might be desired and very relevant to intent.If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window?So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
For example:
Interior shots for property sales
![]()
Nice View
vs
That was not the goalHaving things balanced does not hit the goal of drawing the eye to the windows.
And that was closer to the goal....so perhaps the intend was better accomplished as isMy eye is drawn to the plants in the this picture & they cover the window.
I would have make it more like this to highlight the "Nice View" Eyes go straight to the view...The realtor preferred the interior to stand out and to also allow the person seeing it to get a feel for the view.If I was trying to make the "view" stand out, the interior would have been much darker & outside perfectly exposed.Might be desired and very relevant to intent.If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window?So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
For example:
Interior shots for property sales
![]()
Nice View
vs
That was not the goalHaving things balanced does not hit the goal of drawing the eye to the windows.
And that was closer to the goal....so perhaps the intend was better accomplished as isMy eye is drawn to the plants in the this picture & they cover the window.

And now the inside looks gloomy. Not what you want when you're selling real estate.I would have make it more like this to highlight the "Nice View" Eyes go straight to the view...The realtor preferred the interior to stand out and to also allow the person seeing it to get a feel for the view.If I was trying to make the "view" stand out, the interior would have been much darker & outside perfectly exposed.Might be desired and very relevant to intent.If you're shooting inside and your main subject is inside, why try to save the highlights outside the window?So today i've shot some pictures inside but with bright light outside, to save the highlights i've compensated for that and i knew i could push shadows. So of course i've started to see bandingI cant share pictures because they are personal but i wish Nikon can fix this
People are saying "expose correctly" and so on but it's not always the case, i get when shooting landscape, but when shooting people and you want to save highlights thats different thingeh Nikon why....
For example:
Interior shots for property sales
![]()
Nice View
vs
That was not the goalHaving things balanced does not hit the goal of drawing the eye to the windows.
And that was closer to the goal....so perhaps the intend was better accomplished as isMy eye is drawn to the plants in the this picture & they cover the window.
![]()
blog.kasson.com
Nice one as well and could easily meet an intent. For my taste just a hair HDR...but only a tiny bit and also shows why "trying to save the highlights outside the window" can be very useful
Starting with a low quality JPG to start was not going to result in a usable picture. This was 20sec of work & just trying to make the eyes move.Nice one as well and could easily meet an intent. For my taste just a hair HDR...but only a tiny bit and also shows why "trying to save the highlights outside the window" can be very useful
I was only pointing out in general you make a good point with that image...though it is a bit "too HDR" for my taste.Starting with a low quality JPG to start was not going to result in a usable picture.Nice one as well and could easily meet an intent. For my taste just a hair HDR...but only a tiny bit and also shows why "trying to save the highlights outside the window" can be very useful
And in 20 sec it could have been a tad less HDR...though still fine as is for many...But to the actual point...shows why clipping the outside view may not be a good thing.This was 20sec of work & just trying to make the eyes move.
My point is, If you want BOTH the window and the interior exposed closer to the same levels, just expose for the window view and use a fill flash or diffused light to brighten the exteriors and avoid any "processed" look. I would assume the purpose is to make the scene look natural. Also, the point of taking an image like this and virtually all images is to get the exposure correct or close to correct IN-CAMERA in order to do as little post-processing as possible.I was only pointing out in general you make a good point with that image...though it is a bit "too HDR" for my taste.Starting with a low quality JPG to start was not going to result in a usable picture.Nice one as well and could easily meet an intent. For my taste just a hair HDR...but only a tiny bit and also shows why "trying to save the highlights outside the window" can be very useful
And in 20 sec it could have been a tad less HDR...though still fine as is for many...But to the actual point...shows why clipping the outside view may not be a good thing.This was 20sec of work & just trying to make the eyes move.
That can often lead to lots of other problems with reflection and a mismatch in lighting. Can be done but I've found often better to not use flash with large expanse interior shots. Given the characteristics of modern bodies...often much easier and more natural looking to just ETTR for for the outside window scene and adjust interior in post. With some of the older bodies...you might need to resort to artificial light as processing was more limited.My point is, If you want BOTH the window and the interior exposed closer to the same levels, just expose for the window view and use a fill flash or diffused light to brighten the exteriors and avoid any "processed" look.
Rawtherapee also has a fix for the Nikon issue [ for several months now } here is a link and a how to guide , provide by HorshackI shot Sony so my experience with Nikon ML is limited, but I have seen similar strengths on the striping on Sony cameras in a few examples when all the worse conditions lined up.
For Sony there is one online tool that can fix compressed RAW files and then the open source RAW-developer RawTherapee that can fix both compressed and uncompressed Sony RAW files. Not sure if there are such tools available (yet) for Nikon. If there aren't it isn't unlikely such will come, so don't throw affected RAW-files away - one day you might be able to fix them.
On Sony it seems some lenses are worse with this type of banding than other lenses. So maybe try to use another lens in the meantime to reduce the problem when shooting towards the light like this.
As stated in yet ANOTHER thread about banding, it's more an issue with mirrorless bodies regardless of brand.I shot Sony so my experience with Nikon ML is limited, but I have seen similar strengths on the striping on Sony cameras in a few examples when all the worse conditions lined up.
For Sony there is one online tool that can fix compressed RAW files and then the open source RAW-developer RawTherapee that can fix both compressed and uncompressed Sony RAW files. Not sure if there are such tools available (yet) for Nikon. If there aren't it isn't unlikely such will come, so don't throw affected RAW-files away - one day you might be able to fix them.
On Sony it seems some lenses are worse with this type of banding than other lenses. So maybe try to use another lens in the meantime to reduce the problem when shooting towards the light like this.
You are wrong. this banding type is an issue of Nikon Z series, mirrorless don't have this issue. so instead of reading of someone who does not understand do your own research.As stated in yet ANOTHER thread about banding, it's more an issue with mirrorless bodies regardless of brand.I shot Sony so my experience with Nikon ML is limited, but I have seen similar strengths on the striping on Sony cameras in a few examples when all the worse conditions lined up.
For Sony there is one online tool that can fix compressed RAW files and then the open source RAW-developer RawTherapee that can fix both compressed and uncompressed Sony RAW files. Not sure if there are such tools available (yet) for Nikon. If there aren't it isn't unlikely such will come, so don't throw affected RAW-files away - one day you might be able to fix them.
On Sony it seems some lenses are worse with this type of banding than other lenses. So maybe try to use another lens in the meantime to reduce the problem when shooting towards the light like this.
Banding, striping, etc are issues only on cameras with OSPDAF, not on all mirrorless cameras.As stated in yet ANOTHER thread about banding, it's more an issue with mirrorless bodies regardless of brand.I shot Sony so my experience with Nikon ML is limited, but I have seen similar strengths on the striping on Sony cameras in a few examples when all the worse conditions lined up.
For Sony there is one online tool that can fix compressed RAW files and then the open source RAW-developer RawTherapee that can fix both compressed and uncompressed Sony RAW files. Not sure if there are such tools available (yet) for Nikon. If there aren't it isn't unlikely such will come, so don't throw affected RAW-files away - one day you might be able to fix them.
On Sony it seems some lenses are worse with this type of banding than other lenses. So maybe try to use another lens in the meantime to reduce the problem when shooting towards the light like this.