EM1 2 poor results.

I assumed this issue was addressed with the Mk 2 as it's AF capabilities are supposed to be greatly improved over the Mk 1, so it's really unfortunate to hear Olympus haven't overcome this problem.

Just for further clarity, how have you set Release Priority on your E-m1 mk 2?
M1ii is a big jump from the original, which still managed well for my purposes. Much greater processing power and the cross-type sensors, for starters.
Yes, that's what I read. You may not have cause to use this, but have you tried C-AF with continuous drive mode on static subjects? This is where the E-m1 mk1 fails and forum member SirPlaomid says that it's also a problem on his E-m1 mk2.
 
...actually, good to very good. Unfortunately, the camera had defaulted to jpg N when I set it to default to set the buttons and I didn't notice - my fault, but why, on a top of the range camera, is the lowest quality setting default ?

Here's a few:





3d976109292b43868783d3f9ad574802.jpg



d2d1091fbbe6491dad1d0b279bf26221.jpg



6108d677fc2d4bc3ad354778d26b0529.jpg

Rubbish weather, and the jpg compression doesn't help.
 
I assumed this issue was addressed with the Mk 2 as it's AF capabilities are supposed to be greatly improved over the Mk 1, so it's really unfortunate to hear Olympus haven't overcome this problem.

Just for further clarity, how have you set Release Priority on your E-m1 mk 2?
M1ii is a big jump from the original, which still managed well for my purposes. Much greater processing power and the cross-type sensors, for starters.
Yes, that's what I read. You may not have cause to use this, but have you tried C-AF with continuous drive mode on static subjects? This is where the E-m1 mk1 fails and forum member SirPlaomid says that it's also a problem on his E-m1 mk2.
I'll occasionally do it for portraits and group pics, so not technically static because our subjects do move at least a bit, and I'll add drive mode to accommodate blinks. For scenery and architecture and such I always use S-AF or MF.

Guessing C-AF lock at -2 would preclude its "breathing" but I've never tried.

Cheers,

Rick
 
not to mention the speed of the S-AF focus on the G9 is ahead of the E-M1 Mk II, it's lightning fast.
Well that sounds great. the G9 SAF is, in your opinion, lightening fast. Exactly how much slower is the mkII?

what testing results did you derive your opinion upon?
I will answer instead, because I got interested. According to Mirrorlesscomparison.com (MirrorLessons), G9 is slightly faster than E-M1 mk II when using single-AF: https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/panasonic-vs-olympus/g9-vs-em1-mark-ii/2/
that was a very good read.

i believe the author has an appropriate command of both camera's technologies.

i wished all reviews left me that impression.
This all does not really matter in the context of the OP, because clearly he is not describing an AF issue (see the OOF areas of the original photographs and my other posts). Or is it?
 
Great to see you gout and experimenting. Did you try the enlarge AF function? Did you try other AF box sizes Like the regular size box or the 5 box pattern. ? Or did you continue using the small AF box. Did you try it with the camera on a tripod. The AF jump you experience could still be from handholding the camera and the slight camera movement moving the small AF box off the subject when you half press the shutter button to acquire focus. Did you check the EVF when you half press the shutter to check to see if the subject is in focus and if not did you try bumping the focus?
No point, so long as the camera works fine in CAF mode, that'll do for me, I only want it for wildlife.
That’s OK until you want to focus and then recompose before taking the shot. You might need to set up back-button-focusing to decouple the AF function from the shutter release. Otherwise you’ll be having to move your AF Target point around to suit the composition
or use '+TR' to lock onto the subject then recompose.

+TR is designed for Z-axis but i have used +TR for this exact reason (so have others) for a long time.
The focus point was on the sheep, no wind, the camera was steady, the subject appeared to be in focus. The shot with the G9 was spot on.

It's the shots where nothing is in focus that puzzle me.
--
as always,
thank you fellow DPR members for your kind words and encouragement.
 
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too many threads to sift through...

the first and third image's results aren't what i am accustomed to with my mk2 and I would not be satisfied the results you have posted.

the second image (the rabbit) is simply terrible. blurred/ghosting/blooming.

i've seen this once (scared the heck out of myself until i figured it out) with my mk2 and it was when i was shooting through my windscreen/windshield. i've never seen it when shooting through household plate glass.

i've seen similar results recently when i was shooting (snowy owls) from the inside of my truck with the heater on. inside toasty warm...outside temps -20-ish C.

the heat billowing out of the open window i was shooting from caused a lot of distortion which smeared details and the CAF would simply not lock at all.

--
as always,
thank you fellow DPR members for your kind words and encouragement.
 
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I agree Paul, something else is going on. Certainly not typical with the E-M1II/300f4, its capable of much much better.
 
I assumed this issue was addressed with the Mk 2 as it's AF capabilities are supposed to be greatly improved over the Mk 1, so it's really unfortunate to hear Olympus haven't overcome this problem.

Just for further clarity, how have you set Release Priority on your E-m1 mk 2?
M1ii is a big jump from the original, which still managed well for my purposes. Much greater processing power and the cross-type sensors, for starters.
Yes, that's what I read. You may not have cause to use this, but have you tried C-AF with continuous drive mode on static subjects? This is where the E-m1 mk1 fails and forum member SirPlaomid says that it's also a problem on his E-m1 mk2.
I'll occasionally do it for portraits and group pics, so not technically static because our subjects do move at least a bit, and I'll add drive mode to accommodate blinks.
Is that with the E-m1 mk2? How would you describe your hit rate? I.e. What's your estimated percentage of in focus/out of focus shots?
 
I'll occasionally do it for portraits and group pics, so not technically static because our subjects do move at least a bit, and I'll add drive mode to accommodate blinks.
Is that with the E-m1 mk2? How would you describe your hit rate? I.e. What's your estimated percentage of in focus/out of focus shots?
Can't recall getting under 90+%, with the provision it's not a typical way for me to use the camera. Will add that I leave release priority off.

Cheers,

Rick
 
I'll occasionally do it for portraits and group pics, so not technically static because our subjects do move at least a bit, and I'll add drive mode to accommodate blinks.
Is that with the E-m1 mk2? How would you describe your hit rate? I.e. What's your estimated percentage of in focus/out of focus shots?
Can't recall getting under 90+%, with the provision it's not a typical way for me to use the camera. Will add that I leave release priority off.
Ok, thanks for that.

Cafe Racer.
 
Doesn’t the EM1 mkii use both phase and contrast detect? Could it be that the Phase detect isn’t finding the target and thus defaulting to contrast detect where it is then picking up on a higher contrast area?
There have been numerous threads on how the AF system works. It seems that in S-AF mode, it uses only CDAF. In C-AF mode, PDAF. I would have expected a hybrid complementary approach. But apparently that's not how it has been implemented.
The earlier point about hitting the focus button half way twice is interesting and I will be sure to try that if I have any issues on the first attempt.
Occasionally I've had the E-M1 ii miss initial focus in both S-AF and C-AF modes. Mostly it has happened on low contrast scenes. But, it's also unexpectedly occurred on benign subjects. Usually the misfocus is obvious in the viewfinder and the focus indicator isn't lit. Bumping focus usually gets a lock.
To clarify is this particularly the 300 F4 that people are seeing this issue or a wide range of lenses?
Don't have the 300 f/4 and I've seen it happen.
 
I agree Paul, something else is going on. Certainly not typical with the E-M1II/300f4, its capable of much much better.
Yep. I have commented about this a couple of times in this thread but nobody seems to care.

Maybe it's the (sync) IS doing something wrong. Maybe it's an shutter priority vs. focus (/IS) priority issue*?

Shutter priority means that the photo is taken NO MATTER WHAT.

NO MATTER WHAT includes situations where the AF is not acquired, or when the IS is not settled down.

A long half-press of the shutter/back-(focus)-button before taking the shot should take care of it, but all cameras are different. Is it possible to settle the IS down by using back-button-focus? Is the procedure to use BBF to focus and half press of the shutter button to stabilize the IS, and to set focus priority on?

*I don't know what this is called in the Olympus system.
 
I don't have the E-M1 mk2 but I had the E-M1. I found that when using C-AF on static subjects, the camera would miss focus for most frames unlike with moving targets where most frames would be in focus. When I bought the Panasonic G80, this is one of the first things I tested and it worked well just like you've described on the G9. Could it be that the E-M1 mk2 suffers from the same problem as the mark 1?

Cafe Racer.
My E-M1.2 does suffer from this also, if you shoot static subjects with C-AF (let alone C-Af+Tr), then most of the frames will be not in focus.

Also, it seems to be, that actual focus box is larger than displayed in camera. so AF may pick some contrasty things outside of the box.
I assumed this issue was addressed with the Mk 2 as it's AF capabilities are supposed to be greatly improved over the Mk 1, so it's really unfortunate to hear Olympus haven't overcome this problem.
As previous owner of Mk 1, I would say that speed is greatly improved, yes, but accuracy suffers more (in S-AF), C-AF is better, but C-Af+Tr. is not that improved.
Just for further clarity, how have you set Release Priority on your E-m1 mk 2?
I always use "Release priority" = Focus.

My thoughts, that to increase AF-aquisition speed Olympus sacrifised accuracy (last "is it in focus" check has more tolerance). It also have no priority for nearer subjects, despite of using PDAF.
 
too many threads to sift through...

the first and third image's results aren't what i am accustomed to with my mk2 and I would not be satisfied the results you have posted.

the second image (the rabbit) is simply terrible. blurred/ghosting/blooming.

i've seen this once (scared the heck out of myself until i figured it out) with my mk2 and it was when i was shooting through my windscreen/windshield. i've never seen it when shooting through household plate glass.

i've seen similar results recently when i was shooting (snowy owls) from the inside of my truck with the heater on. inside toasty warm...outside temps -20-ish C.

the heat billowing out of the open window i was shooting from caused a lot of distortion which smeared details and the CAF would simply not lock at all.
What post are you replying to?

The post that you have replied to is of HARES that show that, using CAF, the camera coped well where it didn't using SAF. Unfortunately, as I said, the camera was set on jpg low res, so they don't appear to be as sharp as they would if I'd used raw.
 
I don't have the E-M1 mk2 but I had the E-M1. I found that when using C-AF on static subjects, the camera would miss focus for most frames unlike with moving targets where most frames would be in focus. When I bought the Panasonic G80, this is one of the first things I tested and it worked well just like you've described on the G9. Could it be that the E-M1 mk2 suffers from the same problem as the mark 1?

Cafe Racer.
My E-M1.2 does suffer from this also, if you shoot static subjects with C-AF (let alone C-Af+Tr), then most of the frames will be not in focus.

Also, it seems to be, that actual focus box is larger than displayed in camera. so AF may pick some contrasty things outside of the box.
I assumed this issue was addressed with the Mk 2 as it's AF capabilities are supposed to be greatly improved over the Mk 1, so it's really unfortunate to hear Olympus haven't overcome this problem.
As previous owner of Mk 1, I would say that speed is greatly improved, yes, but accuracy suffers more (in S-AF), C-AF is better, but C-Af+Tr. is not that improved.
An increase in AF speed but a decrease in S-AF accuracy. It's strange how C-AF is better but the less demanding S-AF is worse.
Just for further clarity, how have you set Release Priority on your E-m1 mk 2?
I always use "Release priority" = Focus.
So we can rule that out as part of the problem. I'm surprised that many people don't consider this when trouble shooting.
My thoughts, that to increase AF-aquisition speed Olympus sacrifised accuracy (last "is it in focus" check has more tolerance). It also have no priority for nearer subjects, despite of using PDAF.
I hope this has been resolved on the E-m1x and can be fixed on the E-m1ii and on future cameras.
 
too many threads to sift through...

the first and third image's results aren't what i am accustomed to with my mk2 and I would not be satisfied the results you have posted.

the second image (the rabbit) is simply terrible. blurred/ghosting/blooming.

i've seen this once (scared the heck out of myself until i figured it out) with my mk2 and it was when i was shooting through my windscreen/windshield. i've never seen it when shooting through household plate glass.

i've seen similar results recently when i was shooting (snowy owls) from the inside of my truck with the heater on. inside toasty warm...outside temps -20-ish C.

the heat billowing out of the open window i was shooting from caused a lot of distortion which smeared details and the CAF would simply not lock at all.
What post are you replying to?
your latest pics of hares.
The post that you have replied to is of HARES that show that, using CAF, the camera coped well where it didn't using SAF. Unfortunately, as I said, the camera was set on jpg low res, so they don't appear to be as sharp as they would if I'd used raw.
I’m saying the results look bloody awful and not due to a lower resolution jpeg selection in my opinion.

did you or did you not shoot through glass, a heated vehicle or blind, and do you have a lens filter on?
 
too many threads to sift through...

the first and third image's results aren't what i am accustomed to with my mk2 and I would not be satisfied the results you have posted.

the second image (the rabbit) is simply terrible. blurred/ghosting/blooming.

i've seen this once (scared the heck out of myself until i figured it out) with my mk2 and it was when i was shooting through my windscreen/windshield. i've never seen it when shooting through household plate glass.

i've seen similar results recently when i was shooting (snowy owls) from the inside of my truck with the heater on. inside toasty warm...outside temps -20-ish C.

the heat billowing out of the open window i was shooting from caused a lot of distortion which smeared details and the CAF would simply not lock at all.
What post are you replying to?
your latest pics of hares.
The post that you have replied to is of HARES that show that, using CAF, the camera coped well where it didn't using SAF. Unfortunately, as I said, the camera was set on jpg low res, so they don't appear to be as sharp as they would if I'd used raw.
I’m saying the results look bloody awful and not due to a lower resolution jpeg selection in my opinion.
You are totally and utterly wrong.

Do you not realise the drop in quality when you use a low res jpg? Do you not realise that posting them on here compress's them further? The original of the 2nd one is actually quite good, even for a low res jpg.
did you or did you not shoot through glass, a heated vehicle or blind, and do you have a lens filter on?
Of course I didn't shoot through glass, it's in the middle of moorland (as I've explained when it was suggested I use support). The filter on the lens is a Hoya Pro 1 UV, and simply doesn't cause a problem.
 
too many threads to sift through...

the first and third image's results aren't what i am accustomed to with my mk2 and I would not be satisfied the results you have posted.

the second image (the rabbit) is simply terrible. blurred/ghosting/blooming.

i've seen this once (scared the heck out of myself until i figured it out) with my mk2 and it was when i was shooting through my windscreen/windshield. i've never seen it when shooting through household plate glass.

i've seen similar results recently when i was shooting (snowy owls) from the inside of my truck with the heater on. inside toasty warm...outside temps -20-ish C.

the heat billowing out of the open window i was shooting from caused a lot of distortion which smeared details and the CAF would simply not lock at all.
What post are you replying to?
your latest pics of hares.
The post that you have replied to is of HARES that show that, using CAF, the camera coped well where it didn't using SAF. Unfortunately, as I said, the camera was set on jpg low res, so they don't appear to be as sharp as they would if I'd used raw.
I’m saying the results look bloody awful and not due to a lower resolution jpeg selection in my opinion.
You are totally and utterly wrong.
if you are happy with those results then I say good for you and keep on truck’n then.

I sure as shiite wouldn’t be though.
Do you not realise the drop in quality when you use a low res jpg?
Yes I do.
Do you not realise that posting them on here compress's them further?
Yes I do.
The original of the 2nd one is actually quite good, even for a low res jpg.
i strongly disagree but I am not unhappy about it because they are not my results.
did you or did you not shoot through glass, a heated vehicle or blind, and do you have a lens filter on?
i was just asking for reasons stated.
Of course I didn't shoot through glass, it's in the middle of moorland (as I've explained when it was suggested I use support).
As I said...there are far too many threads to sift through now.
The filter on the lens is a Hoya Pro 1 UV, and simply doesn't cause a problem.
you may want pop that filter off once in a while for a quick comparison or clean it...that’s just me say’n.

you do you.

i have no issue whatsoever with you continuing to collect the results you have posted for us to see.
 
They seem to change back to brown/grey now. If so I never knew that these existed in England. Here in NL only certain kind of animals get a white coat in winter. But not hares as far as i know.

On the images: I think it might be that these hares are contrasty which is may be why the results are btter, but I hop eit is for a better reason. Thx for sharing!
 

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