Using loctite on camera plate?

I have an L bracket almost permanently on my 5D. Then I also attached my peak design capture clip to the L bracket (proprietary) for using with my backpack strap. Although the peak design plate has a bit of rubber on it, I find it hard and more slippery than grippy, plus the L bracket has a more hollow design so there isn't too much actually holding/locking the peak design to the L bracket apart from the screw itself.

I was thinking of adding loctite to the screw - would it make enough of a difference? I have never used it and don't know how much twisting force it would hold? I think blue is the least permanent solution, but is it still a good hold over nothing? Should I try something else?

I can't offer advice on the Loctite solution but the procedure I use for keeping plates tight is to first screw them on with the plate rotated slightly anti-clockwise. When the screw is tight you can then align the plate square to the camera which gives the crew an extra little tweak. This has worked without fail for many years.

Kaitlyn said:

I have an L bracket almost permanently on my 5D. Then I also attached my peak design capture clip to the L bracket (proprietary) for using with my backpack strap. Although the peak design plate has a bit of rubber on it, I find it hard and more slippery than grippy, plus the L bracket has a more hollow design so there isn't too much actually holding/locking the peak design to the L bracket apart from the screw itself.

I was thinking of adding loctite to the screw - would it make enough of a difference? I have never used it and don't know how much twisting force it would hold? I think blue is the least permanent solution, but is it still a good hold over nothing? Should I try something else?

Click to expand...

Loctite could help, but considering that you can unscrew a bolt with it on (blue) given enough leverage it could loosen on the L bracket as well. The PD system is pretty cool, but because it locks the camera in that clamp like a clamp on a tripod, then any twisting force can tighten or loosen the screw. So it's kind of necessary to give some thought to preventing that from happening. I'd think a backpack strap wouldn't present as much problem as say on the belt, where when you sat down it might rotate the camera.

Perhaps another option is to use a compatible plate that has a stopper rim on it, a raised, often adjustable lip that prevents rotation. Not sure if regular Arca compatible plates work in that PD system though. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Release-Hand-Adjustable-Stainless-Removable/dp/B06Y65G5P1

But I prefer swiveling clamps/plates for use on the body; YMMV.

I would never do that! Try it with another peace of rubber or without!

My optometrist even uses Loctite blue on the screws of eyeglasses to keep them from getting loose and falling out.

Kaitlyn said:

I have an L bracket almost permanently on my 5D. Then I also attached my peak design capture clip to the L bracket (proprietary) for using with my backpack strap. Although the peak design plate has a bit of rubber on it, I find it hard and more slippery than grippy, plus the L bracket has a more hollow design so there isn't too much actually holding/locking the peak design to the L bracket apart from the screw itself.

I was thinking of adding loctite to the screw - would it make enough of a difference? I have never used it and don't know how much twisting force it would hold? I think blue is the least permanent solution, but is it still a good hold over nothing? Should I try something else?

Click to expand...

Loctite thread locker only prevents the screw from coming undone; e.g. shaking or working loose. Unless you have that problem, and your description didn't indicate that, thread locker is not a solution to your problem. It does not make the screw, somehow, screw in with more force.

I have one of those peak plates too and, yes, the surface is a bit hard. My solution was to tighten up the screw with a good deal more force (using a bit more leverage on the hex key) so that it holds the plate to the body (well plate) with more force. Only issue there is how comfortable you are with cinching that screw up tight and the danger of damaging the socket in the plate and / or the screw.

One other option would be to modify the plate and bracket by drilling both and threading the hole in the L bracket. A small second machine screw through the plate into the bracket will stop any twisting (the small stop slide screw size often supplied with brackets would be sufficient).

The only other solution I can think of is to put a couple of coats of rubber contact adhesive on the L plate metal under where the plate will go. Let it go completely dry (24 hours plus). Then screw the Peak Design Plate in. The rubber surface will give the plate a little more to grip to than the smooth metal of the L bracket's limited surface. If left to dry properly, it's unlikely to permanently bond the Peak plate to the bracket and should be priseable off. At your own risk here and I'd never suggest that approach direct onto a camera body!