I recently got a Panasonic Lumix GH5 and I'd like to become comfortable using the waveform monitor. In my experiments, I've noticed that I can correct an overexposed image by reducing exposure (duh), bringing the highlights down (I try to get them below 90%). Often, however, this crushes the blacks. If I increase exposure to uncrunch them, I blowout the highlights. Is there a way to reduce the dynamic range so that highlights and shadows are properly exposed at the same time?
-
Welcome to the new forums! Please read this first. For known issues we are working to resolve, click here.
Is it possible to reduce dynamic range?
- Thread starter Lautman
- Start date
Solution
PhotoTeach2
Forum Pro
I think you mean to extend the dynamic range of your camera, (you can't reduce the DR of the incoming light except w/ graduated-ND in only specific lighting situations).
You can do that several ways.
First by using a lower-contrast scene setting, (like natural/portrait as opposed to "vivid").
You can also use HDR mode, (High Dynamic Range), where the camera takes 2 or 3 exposures at different exposure-settings and then combines the best parts of each for a final image. Note that you can also do HDR by software (PP) combining exposures.
There should also be "curve" settings that can be manipulated.
Note that Graduated-ND only works well when there is a sharply defined line between brighter/darker areas.
You of course can also manipulate contrast in PP, (especially in RAW).
Last edited:
Solution
Digital has one major thing in common with old transparency film and that is a need to concentrate on the highlights reason being if you blow them there's zero chance of salvaging anything. Most cameras now, along with editing software, are pretty good at recovering shadow detail, (ideally your shooting RAW), but if the contrast in the scene is strong then look at artificial light or bracketing if the shot permits it, (no movement etc).
I should have said this was for video, sorry. The waveform monitor is only available in video mode on the GH5. Nevertheless, your suggestion to use a lower contrast setting solves the problem. I have VLogL on the camera and when I enable it it does exactly what I want. Plus, I can also use it when shooting photos. Thanks.
Barry Twycross
Senior Member
As pointed out, you mean increase the dynamic range.
If you're shooting RAW, no. If you're not, you can shoot RAW, or you can try the i.Dynamic settings (if the GH5 has them).
Gerry Winterbourne
Forum Pro
As Joe says, what you need to do is maximise the DR, not reduce it. you achieve that if you expose so that your highlights are just short of clipping (or blown). The real problem comes when the DR your camera can capture is less than that of the scene - if you just avoid clipping you can't help but lose detail in the blacks.
All digital cameras start from raw sensor data; many (but not all) allow you so save a raw file that holds all those sensor data as well as a processed JPG file; many (but not all) discard some of the DR captured in the raw data when producing the JPGs.
If you want to get as much DR as you can it's better (in all but the lowest grade cameras) to shoot raw and process the files yourself. However, if you don't want to learn processing or can't afford the time most modern cameras have an option for extending the DR in their JPGs. Every maker uses a different name for this option but it's easy enough to find out what your maker calls itband how to use it.
petrochemist
Senior Member
To capture both highlights & shadows you need to increase DR not reduce it.
Many cameras also have a contrast control, if you reduce the contrast you'll get more DR, though the images will loose impact from this, like much of photography you need to balance conflicting requirements. I don't remember ever seeing a gamma control for in camera processing, but that could restore some punch to low contrast shots.
Even RAW won't go far enough to completely capture many scenes, which is why tricks like HDR are employed. Shooting RAW or HDR are not an option for video.
Many cameras also have a contrast control, if you reduce the contrast you'll get more DR, though the images will loose impact from this, like much of photography you need to balance conflicting requirements. I don't remember ever seeing a gamma control for in camera processing, but that could restore some punch to low contrast shots.
Even RAW won't go far enough to completely capture many scenes, which is why tricks like HDR are employed. Shooting RAW or HDR are not an option for video.
Gerry Winterbourne
Forum Pro
The sensor has a fixed DR. Reducing contrast can display more of the sensor DR in the out-of-camera JPGs but makes no difference when shooting raw. As the camera's histogram shows the in-camera JPG output so setting low contrast gets the histogram nearer the raw histogram but doesn't actually alter it.
petrochemist
Senior Member
Indeed but the OP has said he's shooting video so RAW is out. Reducing contrast maximises the cameras output to nearer the sensors maximum.
Michael Fryd
Forum Pro
One option is to try to get more light into the shadows. Strategically placed reflectors or lights can help a lot. This reduces the dynamic range of the scene.
Obviously, this isn't always an option, but if it is, it may produce better results than using a lower contrast setting.
petrochemist
Senior Member
Yes that approach works well too
Shooting on a more overcast day, shading the subject with a scrim can also reduce the scenes light range - of course these options may be every bit as unavailable as adding light.
Keyboard shortcuts
- f
- Forum