Quattro dp2 or just back step withe dp3 Quattro?

JayDog

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curious I have the dp3 Quattro anybody’s have a pair or all 4 versions of the dp Quattros?

deciding if just backing up with the dp3 75mm would be enough. Anybody have 2 or more versions an if so why?
 
curious I have the dp3 Quattro anybody’s have a pair or all 4 versions of the dp Quattros?

deciding if just backing up with the dp3 75mm would be enough. Anybody have 2 or more versions an if so why?
do you care about perspective? ...

courtesy of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography)

courtesy of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography)

Not to mention the possibility of no room to back up, or a reluctance to go forward into the lion's den ... ;-)

"linear perspective changes are caused by distance, not by the lens per se – two shots of the same scene from the same distance will exhibit identical perspective geometry, regardless of lens used."


For which reason I have a zoom lens on my SD15.

--
Ted
 
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curious I have the dp3 Quattro anybody’s have a pair or all 4 versions of the dp Quattros?

deciding if just backing up with the dp3 75mm would be enough. Anybody have 2 or more versions an if so why?
I have the DP2 and DP3 in Merrill flavors.

The DP3 I use for studio work where you want a slight perspective compression.

The DP2 I use for more "street" style shooting. But since I don't use the Sigma for street, it doesn't see much use.

Extensive blog on focal lengths here:


The DP3 is my preferred focal length for studio (75mm equiv). The DP2 is what I call "true normal" - and yes I know that term is debatable at I think 45mm equiv. The DP1 is the same as the Ricoh GR I believe at 28mm equiv, which is too wide for me to find interesting, though I know some photographers who do great things with that focal length.
 
I thought I was the only on struggling with the 28mm. I cannot take a shot to save my life or very few. I

I have the dp3 now an trying out for studio work. It is small light weight and does not require a heavy tripod.

The 30mm caught my eye but if I consider getting another dpxxxx series camera should I just use my dslr? The simplicity of these dp series cameras are nice.

I guess my question is you bought 2 dpxx cameras do you regret having 2 around ?

jay
 
I just tested 50mm vs 70mm by mistake. Too dark to go out and do 30 vs 50 until tomorrow. Backing up 6.5 to 7 feet aligned the images quite nicely. Here they are:





50mm f5.6 SDQuattro canon 24-70 f2.8 ii
50mm f5.6 SDQuattro canon 24-70 f2.8 ii



70mm f5.6 6.5-7' back from where 50mm shot was taken
70mm f5.6 6.5-7' back from where 50mm shot was taken




curious I have the dp3 Quattro anybody’s have a pair or all 4 versions of the dp Quattros?

deciding if just backing up with the dp3 75mm would be enough. Anybody have 2 or more versions an if so why?


--
"Dao ke dao, fei chang dao. Ming ke ming, fei chang ming" Laozi
"At every crossroads on the path that leads to the future, tradition has placed 10,000 men to guard the past."
Maurice Maeterlinck
 
I thought I was the only on struggling with the 28mm. I cannot take a shot to save my life or very few. I

I have the dp3 now an trying out for studio work. It is small light weight and does not require a heavy tripod.

The 30mm caught my eye but if I consider getting another dpxxxx series camera should I just use my dslr? The simplicity of these dp series cameras are nice.

I guess my question is you bought 2 dpxx cameras do you regret having 2 around ?

jay
I got the DP3 for studio work specifically - I wanted that microcontrast pop that I wasn't getting out of my existing equipment & it was an inexpensive way in to a look that I wanted. It delivered in spades, but has severe limitations - you have to light everything perfectly evenly or it does weird things with colors in shadows & I have seen instances of weird colors bleeding into each other in SPP.*

Still - when it delivered it did so beautifully.

I got the DP2 inexpensively on the use market - the top dial is twitchy but otherwise it's fine. I've never really shot with it seriously as when I shoot at 50mm I'm more likely to go for a full frame/wide aperture/shallow depth of field look (Sony A7 - yes the first one).

But since getting the Fuji X-Pro2, neither Sigma sees much use anymore. I don't know if it's the X-Trans CFA, some Fuji software processing or just super sharp lenses with a lack of an AA filter or what, but it gets real close to the Sigma microcontrast pop I was looking for. But with faster write times + better colors + less weirdness in shadows.

Being limited to 24 megapixels means I can't zoom and zoom and zoom and marvel at the pixels like I do on a Sigma, but 24 megapixels is plenty for just about anything - and at 100% magnification it does lack some of the Merrill "pop" but at normal viewing levels the images are excellent.

I did get a Sony A7Rmkii - loved the 47 megapixels it felt like being back in Foveon land, but hated the colors. Ultimately sold it. Thinking of getting a GFX in a few years when they become affordable - GFX + one really good lens will set me back but will get me the resolution I miss from the Foveon. High megapixel count + Fuji colors + Full Frame Plus + can mount M-Glass = win.... Being the price of a Leica or a used car = maybe not so soon.

Nikon is another option for sheer megapixels, I like Nikon's colors, but I don't see myself investing in a lot of modern Nikon glass, even if by all accounts the D850 is a stellar performer... I'm just sort of over DSLRs and calibrating lenses and blah blah.

To be honest though - I've become a little bored with photography lately. I think the Fuji makes it too easy to get good images, if that makes sense. I don't have to edit anything anymore, just send the JPGs after the shoot and clean the occasional blemish. It's really an excellent camera & the photos are great - but I miss that extra "pop" the Merrill delivers, but don't want to risk it when working with a client.

With the Fuji I can send the SOOC's and call it a day - the photos are really good, but don't feel as special as the Merrill images.

I must be a masochist - saying that photography is boring because it's so easy to get good photos now, but I shoot Foveon so being a masochist goes without saying.

* subtle example of color bleed - look at the teeth in the 3rd image, SPP pulled some of the gold color from the lips into the shadow areas of the teeth, but I've seen much worse examples. The reason I showed the eyes & teeth up close is I love how the Merrill renders details. This image is more or less SOOC, I forget if it went through SPP or not though.


Another Merrill


Merrill, but I remember working really hard to get a decent skin tone (she has interesting skin tone & told me it's really hard to get nice looking skin tone with her)


One of the first photos I got out of the Merrill and when I fell in love with it (if you're wondering, I photoshopped the irises to hide the lighting, but now I kinda regret that decision)


Another Merrill - shooting outside with the Merrill was always a bit of a gamble for some reason - something about the way they handled highlights & I purposefully clip highlights a lot (don't do ETTR). This one is in shade though so it's fine. I did edit this to taste - less saturated / eased the tone curve to soften the image.


I think this one is a Quattro - I didn't like the skin tones on the Quattro, I think this is SOOC. It's not a bad skin tone, but it's not a "neutral" skin tone either.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmOHZdoD3RK/

I love this photo I took on the Sony A7R2 - shallow depth of field + studio lighting + this is an extreme crop but still printable = amazing. But the reasons the colors are so "artsy" is because I hated the Sony colors and couldn't get it to where it felt "neutral" so I had to make some decisions about colors that were less than ideal.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi6ntLCDn7l/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjCYeVMjDAM/

This is the Fuji X-Pro2, SOOC

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj2tm_5DMmC/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BivhCXmjEtq/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpyZVAlHgWO/ (probably SOOC)

Sorry for all the photo spam, this turned into a trip down memory lane.

--
It Gets Nerdy: https://medium.com/ice-cream-geometry
Sometimes I take photos: https://www.instagram.com/sodiumstudio/
 
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I thought I was the only on struggling with the 28mm. I cannot take a shot to save my life or very few. I

I have the dp3 now an trying out for studio work. It is small light weight and does not require a heavy tripod.

The 30mm caught my eye but if I consider getting another dpxxxx series camera should I just use my dslr? The simplicity of these dp series cameras are nice.

I guess my question is you bought 2 dpxx cameras do you regret having 2 around ?

jay
I got the DP3 for studio work specifically - I wanted that microcontrast pop that I wasn't getting out of my existing equipment & it was an inexpensive way in to a look that I wanted. It delivered in spades, but has severe limitations - you have to light everything perfectly evenly or it does weird things with colors in shadows & I have seen instances of weird colors bleeding into each other in SPP.*

Still - when it delivered it did so beautifully.

I got the DP2 inexpensively on the use market - the top dial is twitchy but otherwise it's fine. I've never really shot with it seriously as when I shoot at 50mm I'm more likely to go for a full frame/wide aperture/shallow depth of field look (Sony A7 - yes the first one).

But since getting the Fuji X-Pro2, neither Sigma sees much use anymore. I don't know if it's the X-Trans CFA, some Fuji software processing or just super sharp lenses with a lack of an AA filter or what, but it gets real close to the Sigma microcontrast pop I was looking for. But with faster write times + better colors + less weirdness in shadows.

Being limited to 24 megapixels means I can't zoom and zoom and zoom and marvel at the pixels like I do on a Sigma, but 24 megapixels is plenty for just about anything - and at 100% magnification it does lack some of the Merrill "pop" but at normal viewing levels the images are excellent.

I did get a Sony A7Rmkii - loved the 47 megapixels it felt like being back in Foveon land, but hated the colors. Ultimately sold it. Thinking of getting a GFX in a few years when they become affordable - GFX + one really good lens will set me back but will get me the resolution I miss from the Foveon. High megapixel count + Fuji colors + Full Frame Plus + can mount M-Glass = win.... Being the price of a Leica or a used car = maybe not so soon.

Nikon is another option for sheer megapixels, I like Nikon's colors, but I don't see myself investing in a lot of modern Nikon glass, even if by all accounts the D850 is a stellar performer... I'm just sort of over DSLRs and calibrating lenses and blah blah.

To be honest though - I've become a little bored with photography lately. I think the Fuji makes it too easy to get good images, if that makes sense. I don't have to edit anything anymore, just send the JPGs after the shoot and clean the occasional blemish. It's really an excellent camera & the photos are great - but I miss that extra "pop" the Merrill delivers, but don't want to risk it when working with a client.

With the Fuji I can send the SOOC's and call it a day - the photos are really good, but don't feel as special as the Merrill images.

I must be a masochist - saying that photography is boring because it's so easy to get good photos now, but I shoot Foveon so being a masochist goes without saying.

* subtle example of color bleed - look at the teeth in the 3rd image, SPP pulled some of the gold color from the lips into the shadow areas of the teeth, but I've seen much worse examples. The reason I showed the eyes & teeth up close is I love how the Merrill renders details. This image is more or less SOOC, I forget if it went through SPP or not though.


Another Merrill


Merrill, but I remember working really hard to get a decent skin tone (she has interesting skin tone & told me it's really hard to get nice looking skin tone with her)


One of the first photos I got out of the Merrill and when I fell in love with it (if you're wondering, I photoshopped the irises to hide the lighting, but now I kinda regret that decision)


Another Merrill - shooting outside with the Merrill was always a bit of a gamble for some reason - something about the way they handled highlights & I purposefully clip highlights a lot (don't do ETTR). This one is in shade though so it's fine. I did edit this to taste - less saturated / eased the tone curve to soften the image.


I think this one is a Quattro - I didn't like the skin tones on the Quattro, I think this is SOOC. It's not a bad skin tone, but it's not a "neutral" skin tone either.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmOHZdoD3RK/

I love this photo I took on the Sony A7R2 - shallow depth of field + studio lighting + this is an extreme crop but still printable = amazing. But the reasons the colors are so "artsy" is because I hated the Sony colors and couldn't get it to where it felt "neutral" so I had to make some decisions about colors that were less than ideal.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi6ntLCDn7l/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjCYeVMjDAM/

This is the Fuji X-Pro2, SOOC

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj2tm_5DMmC/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BivhCXmjEtq/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpyZVAlHgWO/ (probably SOOC)

Sorry for all the photo spam, this turned into a trip down memory lane.
I'm glad for it, and I think you should try the SD Quattro H. They are very affordable, for what they are. You could get the new 70mm f2.8 Art macro, and you'd have a perfect portrait camera. I think then you might fall for Quattro. Of course you could always just get the 85mm f1.4 Art instead.

;)
 
I thought I was the only on struggling with the 28mm. I cannot take a shot to save my life or very few. I

I have the dp3 now an trying out for studio work. It is small light weight and does not require a heavy tripod.

The 30mm caught my eye but if I consider getting another dpxxxx series camera should I just use my dslr? The simplicity of these dp series cameras are nice.

I guess my question is you bought 2 dpxx cameras do you regret having 2 around ?

jay
I got the DP3 for studio work specifically - I wanted that microcontrast pop that I wasn't getting out of my existing equipment & it was an inexpensive way in to a look that I wanted. It delivered in spades, but has severe limitations - you have to light everything perfectly evenly or it does weird things with colors in shadows & I have seen instances of weird colors bleeding into each other in SPP.*

Still - when it delivered it did so beautifully.

I got the DP2 inexpensively on the use market - the top dial is twitchy but otherwise it's fine. I've never really shot with it seriously as when I shoot at 50mm I'm more likely to go for a full frame/wide aperture/shallow depth of field look (Sony A7 - yes the first one).

But since getting the Fuji X-Pro2, neither Sigma sees much use anymore. I don't know if it's the X-Trans CFA, some Fuji software processing or just super sharp lenses with a lack of an AA filter or what, but it gets real close to the Sigma microcontrast pop I was looking for. But with faster write times + better colors + less weirdness in shadows.

Being limited to 24 megapixels means I can't zoom and zoom and zoom and marvel at the pixels like I do on a Sigma, but 24 megapixels is plenty for just about anything - and at 100% magnification it does lack some of the Merrill "pop" but at normal viewing levels the images are excellent.

I did get a Sony A7Rmkii - loved the 47 megapixels it felt like being back in Foveon land, but hated the colors. Ultimately sold it. Thinking of getting a GFX in a few years when they become affordable - GFX + one really good lens will set me back but will get me the resolution I miss from the Foveon. High megapixel count + Fuji colors + Full Frame Plus + can mount M-Glass = win.... Being the price of a Leica or a used car = maybe not so soon.

Nikon is another option for sheer megapixels, I like Nikon's colors, but I don't see myself investing in a lot of modern Nikon glass, even if by all accounts the D850 is a stellar performer... I'm just sort of over DSLRs and calibrating lenses and blah blah.

To be honest though - I've become a little bored with photography lately. I think the Fuji makes it too easy to get good images, if that makes sense. I don't have to edit anything anymore, just send the JPGs after the shoot and clean the occasional blemish. It's really an excellent camera & the photos are great - but I miss that extra "pop" the Merrill delivers, but don't want to risk it when working with a client.

With the Fuji I can send the SOOC's and call it a day - the photos are really good, but don't feel as special as the Merrill images.

I must be a masochist - saying that photography is boring because it's so easy to get good photos now, but I shoot Foveon so being a masochist goes without saying.

* subtle example of color bleed - look at the teeth in the 3rd image, SPP pulled some of the gold color from the lips into the shadow areas of the teeth, but I've seen much worse examples. The reason I showed the eyes & teeth up close is I love how the Merrill renders details. This image is more or less SOOC, I forget if it went through SPP or not though.


Another Merrill


Merrill, but I remember working really hard to get a decent skin tone (she has interesting skin tone & told me it's really hard to get nice looking skin tone with her)


One of the first photos I got out of the Merrill and when I fell in love with it (if you're wondering, I photoshopped the irises to hide the lighting, but now I kinda regret that decision)


Another Merrill - shooting outside with the Merrill was always a bit of a gamble for some reason - something about the way they handled highlights & I purposefully clip highlights a lot (don't do ETTR). This one is in shade though so it's fine. I did edit this to taste - less saturated / eased the tone curve to soften the image.


I think this one is a Quattro - I didn't like the skin tones on the Quattro, I think this is SOOC. It's not a bad skin tone, but it's not a "neutral" skin tone either.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmOHZdoD3RK/

I love this photo I took on the Sony A7R2 - shallow depth of field + studio lighting + this is an extreme crop but still printable = amazing. But the reasons the colors are so "artsy" is because I hated the Sony colors and couldn't get it to where it felt "neutral" so I had to make some decisions about colors that were less than ideal.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi6ntLCDn7l/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjCYeVMjDAM/

This is the Fuji X-Pro2, SOOC

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj2tm_5DMmC/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BivhCXmjEtq/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpyZVAlHgWO/ (probably SOOC)

Sorry for all the photo spam, this turned into a trip down memory lane.
I'm glad for it, and I think you should try the SD Quattro H. They are very affordable, for what they are. You could get the new 70mm f2.8 Art macro, and you'd have a perfect portrait camera. I think then you might fall for Quattro. Of course you could always just get the 85mm f1.4 Art instead.

;)
I was really tempted by the Quattro H, but the lens mount means I'm limited to either Sigma or M42 mount lenses.

A Quattro in the Leica L Mount would be tempting - where at least there's every indication that

a) it will have a healthy lens ecosystem

b) I have options besides a Foveon behind the lens

c) The flange-focal distance is short enough that I can mount e.g. vintage Nikon F-Mount or Leica M-Mount

d) It will be full frame (guess - or at least I'll have full frame options).

My brief flirtation with the Quattro (a handful of shoots on the DP3Q) - I didn't like the colors, everything felt over-exposed by a half stop to a stop even though I always shoot to a grey card and have had spot on metering for a decade plus, and in some areas the details were sort of washed out - especially in color-treated hair.

(In general, bad hair dye and bad foundation (makeup) can dramatically reduce the color to a few relatively narrow frequencies that the eye perceives as OK but can play havoc with camera sensors & the Quattro was especially sensitive to that, as was the Merrill but I didn't do side-by-side tests or anything.)

I detail the specifics in this blog post (I decided to turn my longer-ish rants into blog posts so I can easily find the later & not have to dig up old forum posts).


tl;dr - combining a color & monochrome image (for luminosity) largely fixes the exposure & soft colors problem problem - but then it's a two step post production process to get a decent image. The images processed that way, though, were stunning. Sharp & microcontrast-ey without the "crunchiness" of the Merrills.
 

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