Choosing between a D750, D850, or waiting

I’d give the edge to the D850 for your purposes. The articulating LCD screen should help with your copy stand setup. You could tilt the screen and control focus point and the shutter from the screen. For printing large, the D850 resolution is a big plus. I’d get FX lenses to replace your 18-200.
That's definitely a possibility--a consolation prize if a truly remote option wouldn't work. My one concern is whether touching the LCD would use enough force to add some amount of camera shake. Even when I set up a shot with the viewfinder today, I use a remote to make sure I'm keeping the camera as still as possible. This, of course, wouldn't be something to try out and see, but I do like the option.
 
Maybe d500, super AF for planes and reach since its crop.

you dont need fullframe for what you shoot.

and you can keep your lenses from dx..
I'll put that on my list of cameras to consider, and with that, look into its differences from the D7500 (I know I can find some comparisons online, so I'm not looking for anyone here to list them unless there's an obvious/major consideration I should know about).
 
Your existing macro lenses will work fine on the full frame body except you will lose a little bit of magnification and/or working distance.
To confirm, and I've been trying to figure this out but without being 100% sure, the EX lenses are full frame, correct? So that means that right now I'm benefiting from a 1.5x multiplier of the DX sensor, but the lenses themselves will work find with an FX. Except for the really small stuff, the 180mm is more often overkill than not good enough, so losing some of its effective zoom, especially of the resulting image is much larger than I'm currently getting, might not be much of an issue, if any at all.
 
That's a lot of useful input to consider--thank you! It could just be me, but I have always had a problem getting something that's a major upgrade because something else might be lurking. I just bought a new car when mine started to get annoying with maintenance issues. I'd been looking into a new car for years, but was waiting to see if the new technology we're so close to (self driving, electric, etc.) would finally have a real breakthrough without breaking the bank. Finally I just bit the bullet when I couldn't really wait. Here, I can wait because I have a working camera, but I also know that there are benefits all of my photographs will miss out on until I bite the bullet.
 
The Cascable software you refer to works through 'normal' WiFi which is superseded by Snapbridge on Nikon cameras since the D750/D7200. To make it work with newer cameras (maybe Z6 and Z7 are exceptions) you'd need the $1000 https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/wireless/wt-7a-wireless-transmitter.html
Thanks! I had thought Snapbridge was just a special name for WiFi that for some reason Cascable hadn't figured out yet. Cascable would be nice, but not $1000 nice.
There is a workaround to connect D850 to a computer via Wi-Fi. Essentially it involves using Snapbridge on a smartphone to trigger the D850 to start transmitting on Wi-Fi, then connnecting to the D850 W-Fi network from the computer instead from the smartphone. I frequently connect my D850 to QDSLRdashboard on my computer via Wi-Fi using this workaround, without use of any special adapters, and it is not hard to do. I presume the same can be done for Cascable, although I have not personally tried.

However, if you don't like the idea of a workaround, it is true the D750 can directly connect on Wi-Fi without a workaround and without using Snapbridge.
 
...I currently use a remote shutter, which works fine except that my copystand setup has generally terrible ergonomics, and it gets tiring to shoot after a while.
I also have a D90 (and a D800 and D850). One important advantage of the D750 or D850 is the tilting LCD screen. This alone may solve your ergonomics issue, by using it tilted in live view as you may be able to view it directly easily. Also the LCD screen, on the D850 at least, is crystal clear and bright (unlike the D90), and the live view mode is vastly improved over the D90 and enables perfect focus by touch.

Also, if you want to transfer photos (especially RAW files) to computer from a fixed location (copystand), I would strongly recommend do this via USB cable - it is ten times as fast as via Wi-Fi.

QdslrDashboard (free) is also very good for interfacing with the camera from a computer.
 
Here's one more thought:

I suggest to try downloading QdlsrDashboard and connect your D90 to your computer with a USB cable, and see how you like it.

Works great for me - you get live view on your computer screen, with remote autofocus function, plus control over all the D90 camera settings, plus automatic downloads.

This way you could leave your D90 in the copystand (enough resolution for that), and take your newer camera for the landscape/aviation shots
 
Your existing macro lenses will work fine on the full frame body except you will lose a little bit of magnification and/or working distance.
To confirm, and I've been trying to figure this out but without being 100% sure, the EX lenses are full frame, correct? So that means that right now I'm benefiting from a 1.5x multiplier of the DX sensor, but the lenses themselves will work find with an FX. Except for the really small stuff, the 180mm is more often overkill than not good enough, so losing some of its effective zoom, especially of the resulting image is much larger than I'm currently getting, might not be much of an issue, if any at all.
“EX” is an older Sigma term for its higher-end lenses. “DC” indicates the equivalent of DX.

You may wish to verify that your specific Sigma lens will AF with newer Nikon camera bodies. If not, it may require a trip to Sigma service. Nikon does not share technical data with third-party lens makers, so Sigma has to reverse-engineer. Eventually, Nikon’s AF technology diverges far enough, so that older lenses will require updates.

One of my local instructors, whio has authored two editions of a book on crime scene/forensic photography, bought a Sigma macro lens, after carefully comparing images shot with a Canon macro lens. Of course, he uses the Canon system, but the point is that a leader in his field chose Sigma for his macro needs.

My progression of Nikon FX DSLRs being D700, D3s, D5, and D850, I am unable to offer experience-based advice, regarding the D750-versus-D850, except to state the obvious; the D850 has the newest-generation AF system.

I did consider the D750, in the past, but cannot recall anything I specifically disliked. A pair of 7D Mark II cameras were meeting my actual needs, and my D3s’ 12MP was enough for my personal low-light images, so there was no urgency to spend money on FX cameras. The new AF system, which debuted in the D500 and D5, validated my patience. A nice one-time financial windfall, in early 2018, enabled me to add both a D5 and a D850.

--
Nothing I have typed should be understood as an indication that I am claiming to be an expert. I was blessed to have learned from experts, and would classify myself as an advanced beginner, overall, with an asymmetric balance of skills.
I wore a police badge, and made evidentiary images at night, incorporating elements of portrait, macro, still life, landscape, architecture, and PJ. (Retired January 2018.) I enjoy using Canon and Nikon gear.
 
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I’d give the edge to the D850 for your purposes. The articulating LCD screen should help with your copy stand setup. You could tilt the screen and control focus point and the shutter from the screen. For printing large, the D850 resolution is a big plus. I’d get FX lenses to replace your 18-200.
That's definitely a possibility--a consolation prize if a truly remote option wouldn't work. My one concern is whether touching the LCD would use enough force to add some amount of camera shake. Even when I set up a shot with the viewfinder today, I use a remote to make sure I'm keeping the camera as still as possible. This, of course, wouldn't be something to try out and see, but I do like the option.
Yes, I do believe that touching the LCD will cause camera shake. Of course, one can use the LCD screen for viewing, and a cable release for the shutter, or, set the shutter to fire after a delay.

Personally, I have yet to use the touch screen method of releasing the shutter. The tilting LCD can certainly be useful, for composition.
 
Your existing macro lenses will work fine on the full frame body except you will lose a little bit of magnification and/or working distance.
To confirm, and I've been trying to figure this out but without being 100% sure, the EX lenses are full frame, correct? So that means that right now I'm benefiting from a 1.5x multiplier of the DX sensor, but the lenses themselves will work find with an FX. Except for the really small stuff, the 180mm is more often overkill than not good enough, so losing some of its effective zoom, especially of the resulting image is much larger than I'm currently getting, might not be much of an issue, if any at all.
Each manufacturer has their own code to identify lenses. In Sigma I think the DC lenses for for crop sensor cameras and the DG lenses are for full frame sensors. Definitely the 180mm macro is for a full frame sensor. If you are looking at different lens models and you have a question then you have to carefully study their specs online.

What I saw on the net says the lens will focus to 1:1 at 18.5". It will do this on cameras with small sensors the same as it will with cameras with full frame sensors. BUT, if you have a full frame sensor, you can photograph a 24mm tall object while with an APS-C sensor camera you can photograph an object that is only 16mm tall and fill the frame with it. This is the crop factor in action. If you are photographing very small coins then this might be important to you. So with full frame sensor you will be getting closer to your subjects than with the small sensor camera.
 
This has been going on for a long time- buy current technology now and get the use or it now vs. using your old technology while you wait for the newest future technology to get here. My strategy is to use the old technology for as long as you reasonably can, but don't stretch it and deprive yourself, and then switch to latest technology. And when you do that you stop looking at newest releases for awhile so you don't second guess your choice.
 
Wow, photography while flying at night is a challenge! I did some of this, with a Canon 40D, and a 100mm f/2.8 lens, in November 2010, in the back seat of a police helicopter. City-scapes were not part of the assignment, but I shot a few. Most were, shall we say, horribly done, and art-less, but they do stimulate memories.

The assignment was getting overhead images of the streets and areas around popular night life venues, to help city leaders, particularly the police department, plan for an upcoming Final Four tournament. A 100mm lens was good for showing individual vehicles and people, from 500 feet above the ground. This was trial-and-error, on my part, as my crime scene/forensic/evidentiary photography training had not included anything about aerial shooting.

I actually used a 50/1.8 lens, the first night, as it was my widest-aperture lens. It quickly became obvious this was too short, and that Image Stabilization would be very helpful. The Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS had already been on my wish list, so before the next night of flights, I bought one. A 70-200/2.8, with Image Stabilization, would have been nice, but was not within my budget, at that time.

One thing that is helpful, when shooting at night, is when the aircraft is “orbiting” around a specific point. The point, on the ground, under the geometric center of the circle being flown by the aircraft, is relatively still.

I wish I could say whether a D750 or D850 would be better-suited to this task, but I would be guessing.

--
Nothing I have typed should be understood as an indication that I am claiming to be an expert. I was blessed to have learned from experts, and would classify myself as an advanced beginner, overall, with an asymmetric balance of skills.
I wore a police badge, and made evidentiary images at night, incorporating elements of portrait, macro, still life, landscape, architecture, and PJ. (Retired January 2018.) I enjoy using Canon and Nikon gear.
 
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Here's one more thought:

I suggest to try downloading QdlsrDashboard and connect your D90 to your computer with a USB cable, and see how you like it.

Works great for me - you get live view on your computer screen, with remote autofocus function, plus control over all the D90 camera settings, plus automatic downloads.

This way you could leave your D90 in the copystand (enough resolution for that), and take your newer camera for the landscape/aviation shots
In my particular case, tethering to my computer becomes a separate issue--I use a desktop and there's no way I could access it and my camera at the same time. As far as continuing to use the D90, that may work, but it does already have 160k+ shutter clicks, so I'm not sure how long it will last. The advantage right now is that it's been used primarily inside on a copy stand, so it doesn't see much abuse, but it is well past its lifespan.
 
I’d give the edge to the D850 for your purposes. The articulating LCD screen should help with your copy stand setup. You could tilt the screen and control focus point and the shutter from the screen. For printing large, the D850 resolution is a big plus. I’d get FX lenses to replace your 18-200.
That's definitely a possibility--a consolation prize if a truly remote option wouldn't work. My one concern is whether touching the LCD would use enough force to add some amount of camera shake. Even when I set up a shot with the viewfinder today, I use a remote to make sure I'm keeping the camera as still as possible. This, of course, wouldn't be something to try out and see, but I do like the option.
Yes, I do believe that touching the LCD will cause camera shake. Of course, one can use the LCD screen for viewing, and a cable release for the shutter, or, set the shutter to fire after a delay.

Personally, I have yet to use the touch screen method of releasing the shutter. The tilting LCD can certainly be useful, for composition.
This may bring a solution. If the screen and liveview are good/fast enough, I may be able to use them as a viewfinder and continue to use my existing remote shutter to take the picture. The issue now is that liveview on the D90 isn't clear enough to ensure I'm really well focused, so I'm stuck using the viewfinder, which is right in front of my copy stand's vertical beam, making it really hard to see. The Cascable idea was important to provide a way to see the image outside of the viewfinder and then hit the shutter. If I can do that with a remote and built-in LCD, it should probably be fine.

I may be in NYC in a few weeks, and if so, I'll make B&H a stop to try and see these in person.
 
I’d give the edge to the D850 for your purposes. The articulating LCD screen should help with your copy stand setup. You could tilt the screen and control focus point and the shutter from the screen. For printing large, the D850 resolution is a big plus. I’d get FX lenses to replace your 18-200.
That's definitely a possibility--a consolation prize if a truly remote option wouldn't work. My one concern is whether touching the LCD would use enough force to add some amount of camera shake. Even when I set up a shot with the viewfinder today, I use a remote to make sure I'm keeping the camera as still as possible. This, of course, wouldn't be something to try out and see, but I do like the option.
Yes, I do believe that touching the LCD will cause camera shake. Of course, one can use the LCD screen for viewing, and a cable release for the shutter, or, set the shutter to fire after a delay.

Personally, I have yet to use the touch screen method of releasing the shutter. The tilting LCD can certainly be useful, for composition.
This may bring a solution. If the screen and liveview are good/fast enough, I may be able to use them as a viewfinder and continue to use my existing remote shutter to take the picture. The issue now is that liveview on the D90 isn't clear enough to ensure I'm really well focused, so I'm stuck using the viewfinder, which is right in front of my copy stand's vertical beam, making it really hard to see. The Cascable idea was important to provide a way to see the image outside of the viewfinder and then hit the shutter. If I can do that with a remote and built-in LCD, it should probably be fine.

I may be in NYC in a few weeks, and if so, I'll make B&H a stop to try and see these in person.
What a good idea. Just my two cents worth. I loved my D90 and the extra lens reach you get with DX is something to consider. I then went D700 and thenD750. This camera is good for the photojournalism work I do. Big difference is the lens cost. The camera body is about 20% of my outlay. Eg The 24 70 cost about the same as the D750. I like the 24mp sensor size. Gives great images without slowing my Mac down.i have printed to 6x4’ posters no problem so don’t worry on that front. Plus it’s light.
 
With both your macro and your aircraft photography you gain absolutely nothing with a full frame camera. Why not get a D500?
From what I've seen so far, the biggest difference between cameras (as it pertains to my needs) would be autofocus speed/accuracy and low-light performance. It may not come down specifically to FX vs. DX, but the camera that can perform the best, and if it happens to be FX, I'll switch. Coming from the D90, any recent model will be a major upgrade--I'll certainly be able to do anything I can already do, and get it at a higher resolution. But I also know what my current setup absolutely can't do, and that's anything high ISO, hand-held, while moving. As it happens, the one set of sample shots that really mirror what I want to do have come from someone with a D850, so I've at least seen that it can provide the performance I'm looking for.
 
yes, i'm late to the party (and you most likely have made a decision and acted on it by now).
imo, if budget allows, step up to the D850. my reason is this, a major upgrade will probably mean significantly more time to the next upgrade (4/5 years vs 7/8 years?). this also means you gain a much deeper understanding of your gear (so hopefully it is second nature to you). your gear stays viable and relevant keeping you in "the game" longer.

let us know how this unfolds.....

M
 

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