Fuji Jpeg Film Emulation Recipes

Hi atalwar. This is a great idea and I hope you update this with many more options. I initially had followed some recipe ideas found here, but I found that the custom WB settings of some of them affected my end result more than I wanted them to. I thus have removed any custom WB options for now.
 
Hi atalwar. This is a great idea and I hope you update this with many more options. I initially had followed some recipe ideas found here, but I found that the custom WB settings of some of them affected my end result more than I wanted them to. I thus have removed any custom WB options for now.
Possibly because of the ambient light differences causing more shifts than desirable.

What's interesting is that you can dial in a little of these tints on Jpegs in lightroom itself using :
  • The WB Sliders
  • The Independent RGB Curves
  • Split Toning.
I am somehow obsessed with creating different dramatic old looks, like 60's 70's photos from those old National Geographic magazines I have over the years.
 
+1 to astia travel. It's a very versatile simulation that can be used for just about anything and produce beautiful colors.
 
+1 to astia travel. It's a very versatile simulation that can be used for just about anything and produce beautiful colors.
Don't it close to Velvia - more colors, more shadows, more red, instead magenta (in the Velvia blue) ?

I didn't try it, and ask for more comments.
 
It's close to velvia, yes, but I think it does skin tones much better. They don't appear oversaturated. Instead, they look natural and healthy. I've modified it slightly for the X-T10. I think it's a bit milder on color and sharpness than the reccomended, which was for the X-T2 if I remember right. Remember that the X-T10 goes on a scale from -2 to 2.

I tried some of the "portrait" skin tones using desaturated profiles but I really didn't like them. Made people look dead. Too grey for my liking. I don't post personal pics online, so It's tough to show and tell, but here's the settings I use. Try it out for yourself! Great landscapes, cityscapes, and portraits.

Astia
Color +1
Sharpness +1
White balance: auto +1R
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +1
Noise reduction: -1
 
It's close to velvia, yes, but I think it does skin tones much better. They don't appear oversaturated. Instead, they look natural and healthy. I've modified it slightly for the X-T10. I think it's a bit milder on color and sharpness than the reccomended, which was for the X-T2 if I remember right. Remember that the X-T10 goes on a scale from -2 to 2.

I tried some of the "portrait" skin tones using desaturated profiles but I really didn't like them. Made people look dead. Too grey for my liking. I don't post personal pics online, so It's tough to show and tell, but here's the settings I use. Try it out for yourself! Great landscapes, cityscapes, and portraits.

Astia
Color +1
Sharpness +1
White balance: auto +1R
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +1
Noise reduction: -1
Thanks I will give it try. Actually I use Astia as main film.

One more question, because I am still new in Fuji world, when you mean Auto WB +R - you use custom WB, right?

I still have to try how to save default auto WB to modified custom one.

PS - actually I use Astia with Color Chrome effect set to Strong. This option give something more, I am not sure what, but like it :)

--
"It isn’t the camera that makes the pictures great, it’s you." - Dan Bailey
phototravels-bg.com
 
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Nice. I just got an x-t3 and will give color chrome a try!

To set auto + 1R, you have to click "ok" on "auto" under the "white balance" menu and you will be able to set it to +1R. Once you save it in your camera, every time you select that setting, it will go to that setting, including white balance. When you actually look at the white balance though, it will just say "auto". You have to click on it to see the custom settings.

Cheers!
 
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I know how to shift the color but this is global setting. Is there way to set it only for this Custom Settings, and when I change CS from Q menu, the color shift to change its value also?
 
Ahh yes. I actually thought it saved those changes. Kind of annoying that it doesn't. I don't know of a way to get around that.
 
Here;s a Nice Read from The Makers themselves, where they explain each of their film simulation and where it stands so we all can make informed decisions/choices.

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/stories/the-world-of-film-simulation-episode-1/
Fascinating articles. I had never read as much about the different simulations but this has ended up making me wonder whether I'm doing it all wrong.

As with most people, when it comes to colour photography, I started with classic chrome. I still like it but I decided to switch since it felt too 'used'. I have, since then, moved to Astia and have been enjoying it quite a while. But I had not realised that it's primarily a portrait lens and that the 'soft' part is just for skin tones. I guess it makes sense now that I've been adding negative points to the colour option. I generally like less saturated images.

The chart made me wonder: what should I be using? But Pro Neg Hi. and Pro Neg Std. which seem to be more my style according to the chart, both are also meant to be for portraiture.

Does anyone use either for travel etc.?
 
Here;s a Nice Read from The Makers themselves, where they explain each of their film simulation and where it stands so we all can make informed decisions/choices.

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/stories/the-world-of-film-simulation-episode-1/
Fascinating articles. I had never read as much about the different simulations but this has ended up making me wonder whether I'm doing it all wrong.

As with most people, when it comes to colour photography, I started with classic chrome. I still like it but I decided to switch since it felt too 'used'. I have, since then, moved to Astia and have been enjoying it quite a while. But I had not realised that it's primarily a portrait lens and that the 'soft' part is just for skin tones. I guess it makes sense now that I've been adding negative points to the colour option. I generally like less saturated images.

The chart made me wonder: what should I be using? But Pro Neg Hi. and Pro Neg Std. which seem to be more my style according to the chart, both are also meant to be for portraiture.

Does anyone use either for travel etc.?
Well, colors is matter of personal taste, if you are not a pro, and need to meet some expectations. I am not pro and I shoot as I like - and I like live colors.

I never used ProNeg simulations, but when I look at photos made with them... they remember me of the photos of Nikon cameras. They are so muted! I have few friend using Nikons and always can recognize their photos. The people looks strange, I can not explain it, but do not like it.

So I almost all the time use Astia, sometimes outside I use Velvia, but it can be too contrast sometimes.

At home, evening I put NR to +2, and because there are lot of black and white objects I put Shadows to -2, and as always - Color Chrome effect to Strong.

Shoot whatever you like you photos to be :) The fun is most important part :)
 
Here;s a Nice Read from The Makers themselves, where they explain each of their film simulation and where it stands so we all can make informed decisions/choices.

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/stories/the-world-of-film-simulation-episode-1/
Fascinating articles. I had never read as much about the different simulations but this has ended up making me wonder whether I'm doing it all wrong.

As with most people, when it comes to colour photography, I started with classic chrome. I still like it but I decided to switch since it felt too 'used'. I have, since then, moved to Astia and have been enjoying it quite a while. But I had not realised that it's primarily a portrait lens and that the 'soft' part is just for skin tones. I guess it makes sense now that I've been adding negative points to the colour option. I generally like less saturated images.

The chart made me wonder: what should I be using? But Pro Neg Hi. and Pro Neg Std. which seem to be more my style according to the chart, both are also meant to be for portraiture.

Does anyone use either for travel etc.?
Well, colors is matter of personal taste, if you are not a pro, and need to meet some expectations. I am not pro and I shoot as I like - and I like live colors.

I never used ProNeg simulations, but when I look at photos made with them... they remember me of the photos of Nikon cameras. They are so muted! I have few friend using Nikons and always can recognize their photos. The people looks strange, I can not explain it, but do not like it.

So I almost all the time use Astia, sometimes outside I use Velvia, but it can be too contrast sometimes.

At home, evening I put NR to +2, and because there are lot of black and white objects I put Shadows to -2, and as always - Color Chrome effect to Strong.

Shoot whatever you like you photos to be :) The fun is most important part :)
agree - but if the "fun" can be amped by more control (insert diabolical, unhinged laughter) it is all the better.

follow thread
 
Great work. Two suggestions:

1) can you list the source for these recipe? URL?

2) Please label Xtrans generation in the worksheet tab. Hopefully someone can provide some film simulations setting for xtrans 1, and 2.

Thank you.
Thx, The Source url are in the last column of the spreadsheet.It would be unfair to not give credits where they are due.

-The Recipes are Mixed disregarding the sensor being used. That is because nothing is set in stone. These are just templates that one needs to tweak based on situation and light you are working in. For Example for me Subjects with Fair Skin Acros + G works Good but with Darker Skinned Subjects Acros + R works much better in harsh sunlight .

These numbers indicate how a different fuji simulations with tweaks can emulate other known film looks to a certain degree. There is no shadow/highlight crushing/clamping in camera so that is something PP.
 
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If you don't mind I will extend the idea - you can add 2 more columns to the table, first one can holds link to the example image toke with base Simulation, the second one can holds same image but after the modifications.

The images can be here - in DPR gallery.

And an extension of the extension - small site with lot of example images (there is Nikon Picture Controls site with examples). There the user will be able to choose from list (gallery) of images, then from select menu will select the new recipe, and will see both images side by side :)

Any way compare two images side by side will give much more information to any of us.
 
This is a good idea. I think we should also include the camera that the settings are on because not all cameras have the same setting abilities (my x-t10 goes on a scale from -2 to 2). Unless maybe the FW updates have changed this. I have never updated mine...
 

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