Michael H
Leading Member
Or you can buy it in Australia with free postage included from the link I posted. There are a few Godox suppliers in Australia offering fair prices. Or you can use Adorama and pay more.
-
Welcome to the new forums! Please read this first. For known issues we are working to resolve, click here.
Godox AD200 in large softbox. Enough?
- Thread starter richiedodson
- Start date
RoyAmatore
Senior Member
Last edited:
richiedodson
Forum Enthusiast
I have photographed bikes for 20 years. I do all the Giant bicycles for Austrailia and New Zealand plus some others - usually around 150 models with most being straight side views (F/10 works well, could get away with F/8 perhaps) and maybe 20% with additional 3/4 view (F/16 minimum to get everything in DOF, preferably a little smaller) ISO100 always.
Shoots are always rushed. It takes time to set-up a bike (hanging with fishing-line) and get spokes and cranks and handlebars and quick-releases and pedals etc. straight and get saddles at the right height, align forks to lens, make sure it's in the right gear to get the chain straight... but I have a pretty good system and so much experience so I'm fast and know what to look for. I can make a finished shot in about 6 minutes from the time I grab a waiting bike to the time I put it back on a rack. Approx 45 bikes in a day. Usually there are periods where a bike takes longer or I need to wait for parts to be swapped or it needs cleaning first. Camera angle and height needs adjusting for kids bikes vs adult bikes and all that stuff to align handlebars or chainstays with the camera.
I constantly try to update and refine my system. Clients don't notice the difference whatsoever but I try to make 5-10% better every year. 20 years ago tungsten was a good option, I was using a 4MP camera like this: https://www.dpreview.com/products/olympus/compacts/oly_e20 which was massive at the time. Then I moved to CFL and LED panels and huge fresnels that provide better light but always need to be reflected rather than direct - it's a good way to do bikes but it gets complicated and stands reflect in the shiny parts of bikes. I always like to see what the bike would see if it looked back at the camera and reduce what will be reflected in an object which is why my studio is all perfectly black inside so I can control all light. On location I have a muslin white background (so it can be washed before the next year) and a black muslin background that I erect behind the camera as the background reflects onto bike tubes and chrome parts - especially with constant lighting. I turn all the room lights off and cover the windows but in a factory that can be difficult and very very make-shift...
I am relatively inexperienced with flash however I have found that it is quite easy to handle and manually change each light to get what I want. I found that the quality of the shot is so much nicer as light is very even right across the Broncolor softbox (I'm hoping the Godox softbox will be at least a better spread corner to corner than a reflected fresnel on a large rolling panel)
In China I have 4 x basic light stands, 3 x backdrop stands with crossbars (for 3mx6m white and black backgrounds and 1 to hang the bike from) and I have two large rolling reflector panels approx 150cm x 200cm made by FalconEyes but similar to this: https://www.masterfoto.lv/en/reflec...ex-pro-Rolling-Reflector-Panel-150x200cm.html. There is no boom and not much option for an overhead light with diffusion. I'm thinking that this time I might be able to use those big rolling panels as overhead reflectors but I don't know how well it will work as I would possibly need even more lights to flash onto them...
In my bag I'll need my 5DS - I have usually taken a backup 5D3 but never ever needed it, lenses; 24-70 and 70-200 2.8s, maybe a macro and a wide angle for creative closeup shots. I have a few batteries and a wall adapter to power the camera, tether cables and a Microsoft Surface Pro for Lightroom, card reader and usb hub... I need a tripod so I have a good little travel Me Foto one that I adapted to use a Manfrotto plate but I also take my geared head too - makes life so much easier aligning things. Clothes for a week. Usually it's about a 26kg bag limit plus carry-on which they never weigh... luckily.
As years have gone by, the basic China Equipment stored there is fine bit the actual old redheads are so outdated, hot, blow globes which spray hot-glass across the floor, occasionally fully catch on fire and just a little bit dodgy and dangerous.
Giant shot in my studio, clipped and prepared as final image. i have a bit more time for these than 6 minutes.
Shot in China with tungsten reflected on panels, colour-balanced and clipped but no post-production fix-ups. Things like tyre valves would be cut-off, 2nd handle might be cut-off, factory scratches and dust cleaned (they are one-off pre-production samples so are often marked and dented or with old parts used) The best quality I get with 6 minutes and very low budget and no possibility for better equipment...
Both these images are a couple of years old.
--
'high IQ'
Shoots are always rushed. It takes time to set-up a bike (hanging with fishing-line) and get spokes and cranks and handlebars and quick-releases and pedals etc. straight and get saddles at the right height, align forks to lens, make sure it's in the right gear to get the chain straight... but I have a pretty good system and so much experience so I'm fast and know what to look for. I can make a finished shot in about 6 minutes from the time I grab a waiting bike to the time I put it back on a rack. Approx 45 bikes in a day. Usually there are periods where a bike takes longer or I need to wait for parts to be swapped or it needs cleaning first. Camera angle and height needs adjusting for kids bikes vs adult bikes and all that stuff to align handlebars or chainstays with the camera.
I constantly try to update and refine my system. Clients don't notice the difference whatsoever but I try to make 5-10% better every year. 20 years ago tungsten was a good option, I was using a 4MP camera like this: https://www.dpreview.com/products/olympus/compacts/oly_e20 which was massive at the time. Then I moved to CFL and LED panels and huge fresnels that provide better light but always need to be reflected rather than direct - it's a good way to do bikes but it gets complicated and stands reflect in the shiny parts of bikes. I always like to see what the bike would see if it looked back at the camera and reduce what will be reflected in an object which is why my studio is all perfectly black inside so I can control all light. On location I have a muslin white background (so it can be washed before the next year) and a black muslin background that I erect behind the camera as the background reflects onto bike tubes and chrome parts - especially with constant lighting. I turn all the room lights off and cover the windows but in a factory that can be difficult and very very make-shift...
I am relatively inexperienced with flash however I have found that it is quite easy to handle and manually change each light to get what I want. I found that the quality of the shot is so much nicer as light is very even right across the Broncolor softbox (I'm hoping the Godox softbox will be at least a better spread corner to corner than a reflected fresnel on a large rolling panel)
In China I have 4 x basic light stands, 3 x backdrop stands with crossbars (for 3mx6m white and black backgrounds and 1 to hang the bike from) and I have two large rolling reflector panels approx 150cm x 200cm made by FalconEyes but similar to this: https://www.masterfoto.lv/en/reflec...ex-pro-Rolling-Reflector-Panel-150x200cm.html. There is no boom and not much option for an overhead light with diffusion. I'm thinking that this time I might be able to use those big rolling panels as overhead reflectors but I don't know how well it will work as I would possibly need even more lights to flash onto them...
In my bag I'll need my 5DS - I have usually taken a backup 5D3 but never ever needed it, lenses; 24-70 and 70-200 2.8s, maybe a macro and a wide angle for creative closeup shots. I have a few batteries and a wall adapter to power the camera, tether cables and a Microsoft Surface Pro for Lightroom, card reader and usb hub... I need a tripod so I have a good little travel Me Foto one that I adapted to use a Manfrotto plate but I also take my geared head too - makes life so much easier aligning things. Clothes for a week. Usually it's about a 26kg bag limit plus carry-on which they never weigh... luckily.
As years have gone by, the basic China Equipment stored there is fine bit the actual old redheads are so outdated, hot, blow globes which spray hot-glass across the floor, occasionally fully catch on fire and just a little bit dodgy and dangerous.
Giant shot in my studio, clipped and prepared as final image. i have a bit more time for these than 6 minutes.
Shot in China with tungsten reflected on panels, colour-balanced and clipped but no post-production fix-ups. Things like tyre valves would be cut-off, 2nd handle might be cut-off, factory scratches and dust cleaned (they are one-off pre-production samples so are often marked and dented or with old parts used) The best quality I get with 6 minutes and very low budget and no possibility for better equipment...
Both these images are a couple of years old.
--
'high IQ'
richiedodson
Forum Enthusiast
richiedodson
Forum Enthusiast
Thank you - good store. I may have visited them in person if they have an actual outlet...?
Adorama has the original SMDV DA-03 plus the Phottix Cerberus which is like a Bowens pro version of the Godox S-Type bracket (and is silver) also plus a few other things of good value for me... Broncolour softbox masks - good to bundle together with shipping. I do prefer local suppliers when I can but I have had great experience with Adorama and things actually arrive quicker than stupid Australia Post who seems to lose a lot of parcels recently....!
Michael H
Leading Member
Store front is called Aranhan Photo: https://www.arahanphoto.com.au/
Shop A 328 Johnston St, Abbotsford VIC 3067 (new address)
Shop A 328 Johnston St, Abbotsford VIC 3067 (new address)
richiedodson
Forum Enthusiast
Ok cool. It's not the one I thought it was but next time I'm in the area I'll drop in. I thought it was the place next door to Kayell but that's Image Melbourne. Kayell actually do great deals on Godox - cheaper by far than Ebay. I think I got my AD600s $200each cheaper by buying 4 at once ie: they were around AUD$950 but on Ebay around AUD$1200
Michael H
Leading Member
Kayell are great, but have a limited Godox range.
richiedodson
Forum Enthusiast
Ok, for anyone interested. My 2 x AD200 arrived much earlier than expected. Also I received the S-brackets, 2 x Godox 120x80cm softboxes, a Broncolor 150cm Octa and Broncolor-to-Bowens speedring and a few various other bits all from various places.
I didn't yet take them to my studio to test properly but I did spend an hour or two in my house having a play with stuff.
My initial thoughts are that at F/11 (and 1/250th), the AD200 is powerful enough to overcome a very bright window at ISO100 and fills the Broncolor 150cm Octa (with internal diffuser and outer diffuser in place perfectly fine and evenly - without any reflective disk on the S-Bracket behind the bare bulb. I have no doubt that the AD200 is fine for products as large as a bike or a person using a large double-diffused softbox and with 2 lights and/or reflector panels even better. I will note that the Broncolor Octa had like a 2nd circle layer of diffusion material on the internal baffle in the centre to prevent hotspots and to reflect light further around the inside of the box so effectively it was a triple diffusion layer at the centre.
At F/18 to get full DOF with the bike on an angle, I had to increase ISO to 200 and at max 250 to get bright enough. I think with a 2nd softbox and background lights that may improve as light bounces around the room and also adding a reflective disk on the S-Bracket could help a fair bit. I also think I can get-away with F/14 for the DOF. I think this is pretty acceptable and quite clean for a portable overseas light setup... I tried this with both a Canon 5DS and a 1DX with 24-70 2.8 Brick. I tried the lights to light my white curtains to see if it would make a nice 3m white background behind the bikes when I shoot them. I think it will but will be happier after testing in studio on a real background and some front light fall-off will make it to the background too. Products get clipped so actually a not-fully-white background is ok and stops the round bike tubes blending to white as they curve reflecting background that the camera still sees - it's better to have very slightly grey - especially when product parts are white or transparent. 4 x AD200 will be a perfectly fine very portable studio setup for travel I expect.
A couple of hours later as I was packing stuff back up, my Godox 120cm x 80cm Softboxes arrived and I did the process almost again. These were reasonable for $40 softboxes but so much more difficult to set-up than the Broncolor box and there is an obvious quality difference (the Broncolour box was around AUD$350 though on special so there is a huge price difference). They have an internal diffuser and an outer diffuser. I was very disappointed in the quality of light that came out of them with hotspots all over the bike even double-diffused. I will add another diffusion layer to see if it helps later when I test properly but I think this is going to be very important - I might replicate the inner circle of the Broncolor box possibly. I think I can get away with it as a make-shift travel box for a dirty factory but I'd never buy these again and I'm so glad I started with the best so I know the difference and don't blame myself so much.
I think the AD600Pro and AD200 are great. I also think that the accessories such as the standard reflector etc. or the softboxes should be a little bit better quality than they are - it detracts from the system and I'd prefer to invest in much better equipment from other brands. The S-Bracket seems plenty strong enough but clunky when altering the angle and therefore difficult with a softbox mounted. I'll take those to China but I invested in the Phottix Cerberus version for studio use. As a fully qualified Industrial Designer there would be heaps of design changes I would make to various things I have seen... not that expensive to implement either.
I will post an image or two at some stage in about 2 weeks when I have time to really test fully in a trial shoot I want to do.
I didn't yet take them to my studio to test properly but I did spend an hour or two in my house having a play with stuff.
My initial thoughts are that at F/11 (and 1/250th), the AD200 is powerful enough to overcome a very bright window at ISO100 and fills the Broncolor 150cm Octa (with internal diffuser and outer diffuser in place perfectly fine and evenly - without any reflective disk on the S-Bracket behind the bare bulb. I have no doubt that the AD200 is fine for products as large as a bike or a person using a large double-diffused softbox and with 2 lights and/or reflector panels even better. I will note that the Broncolor Octa had like a 2nd circle layer of diffusion material on the internal baffle in the centre to prevent hotspots and to reflect light further around the inside of the box so effectively it was a triple diffusion layer at the centre.
At F/18 to get full DOF with the bike on an angle, I had to increase ISO to 200 and at max 250 to get bright enough. I think with a 2nd softbox and background lights that may improve as light bounces around the room and also adding a reflective disk on the S-Bracket could help a fair bit. I also think I can get-away with F/14 for the DOF. I think this is pretty acceptable and quite clean for a portable overseas light setup... I tried this with both a Canon 5DS and a 1DX with 24-70 2.8 Brick. I tried the lights to light my white curtains to see if it would make a nice 3m white background behind the bikes when I shoot them. I think it will but will be happier after testing in studio on a real background and some front light fall-off will make it to the background too. Products get clipped so actually a not-fully-white background is ok and stops the round bike tubes blending to white as they curve reflecting background that the camera still sees - it's better to have very slightly grey - especially when product parts are white or transparent. 4 x AD200 will be a perfectly fine very portable studio setup for travel I expect.
A couple of hours later as I was packing stuff back up, my Godox 120cm x 80cm Softboxes arrived and I did the process almost again. These were reasonable for $40 softboxes but so much more difficult to set-up than the Broncolor box and there is an obvious quality difference (the Broncolour box was around AUD$350 though on special so there is a huge price difference). They have an internal diffuser and an outer diffuser. I was very disappointed in the quality of light that came out of them with hotspots all over the bike even double-diffused. I will add another diffusion layer to see if it helps later when I test properly but I think this is going to be very important - I might replicate the inner circle of the Broncolor box possibly. I think I can get away with it as a make-shift travel box for a dirty factory but I'd never buy these again and I'm so glad I started with the best so I know the difference and don't blame myself so much.
I think the AD600Pro and AD200 are great. I also think that the accessories such as the standard reflector etc. or the softboxes should be a little bit better quality than they are - it detracts from the system and I'd prefer to invest in much better equipment from other brands. The S-Bracket seems plenty strong enough but clunky when altering the angle and therefore difficult with a softbox mounted. I'll take those to China but I invested in the Phottix Cerberus version for studio use. As a fully qualified Industrial Designer there would be heaps of design changes I would make to various things I have seen... not that expensive to implement either.
I will post an image or two at some stage in about 2 weeks when I have time to really test fully in a trial shoot I want to do.
tugwilson
Senior Member
If you take the S-Type bracket apart you will find two plastic disks that have ridges on them. If you sand them down a bit the adjustment gets smoother.
Michael H
Leading Member
Similar threads
Keyboard shortcuts
- f
- Forum