Frank Nichols
Senior Member
Patrick,
Thanks for the suggestion. I believe I read an eariler post of your about this and tried it a week or two ago and foudn that it does in fact work for me.
I combine this with using the AF Assist light (when I can) without flash (Custom function).
In club shooting I have started shooting Large Medium (so I can get more iamges per card) and shooting bursts of three to five. Last Friday I got some realitively sharp shots at 1/15 @ 70mm handheld with no brace. That is AMAZING. a couple at 1/30 @ 100mm were even better.
Frank
Someday I will take a good photograph - until then I will blame my equipment.
Thanks for the suggestion. I believe I read an eariler post of your about this and tried it a week or two ago and foudn that it does in fact work for me.
I combine this with using the AF Assist light (when I can) without flash (Custom function).
In club shooting I have started shooting Large Medium (so I can get more iamges per card) and shooting bursts of three to five. Last Friday I got some realitively sharp shots at 1/15 @ 70mm handheld with no brace. That is AMAZING. a couple at 1/30 @ 100mm were even better.
Frank
--Frank, it sounds like you have to take photos in difficult
low-light situations. Especially when your shutter speed is "too
slow" by traditional methods.
I wanted to mention a technique just in case you hadn't heard of it
or already figured it out. I read this elsewhere in the forum and
thought it was good.
The technique is to shoot a burst of shots. Later, after loading
them on your computer, look at the shot with the smallest JPG file
size (from the burst group). That will be the sharpest shot of the
burst.
Why? When doing hand-held pictures, your hand is somewhat randomly
moving. At some points it moves less than others. When you shoot a
burst, one of the pics will have less motion than the others. Also,
when you press the shutter, the first one or two pics tend to have
MORE motion due to the shutter press; by bursting, you can skip
those.
The smallest-JPG-filesize result is due to the fact that sharper
pictures need less compression than blurry pictures.
As I said, I read this on the forum in a post with sample pics.
They were quite convincing. I then tried it myself, hand-holding on
a fixed, detailed subject in low-light. It worked surprisingly
well. (One poster in the thread speculated that the
smallest-JPG-is-the-sharpest technique is how Nikon's "Best-Shot
Selection" feature works.)
Of course, there are downsides of 1) filling up the CF card faster
and 2) possibly filling the buffer and missing the next shot while
waiting for the burst to be written. So like anything there are
tradeoffs.
Anyway, thanks for your post about the viewfinder/sensor
misalignment, and hope this tip helps you or others trying to get
sharp pictures in difficult conditions.
Someday I will take a good photograph - until then I will blame my equipment.