Looks like a good book to be sure. I will put it on my reading list. As to which lens, this thread below from 2012 on this very subject on this very forum would confirm and contradict some of what you and others have stated. It is a really good discussion and what I have come to realize in researching this is that there is a large range of opinions on this. Funny how as time moves on some things never change.
What Nikkors have most 3D pop (microcontrast)?
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/41395112
The thing is, everything about lens rendering and image quality can be described objectively. Terms like "3D pop" and especially "microcontrast" are loosely defined at best, and so become subjective. Instead of asking for 3D rendering, try to describe the attributes of the image that you are looking for. Things like high contrast, shallow depth of field, compressed perspective, low noise etc are much more useful ways to describe image quality.
And if you can't describe it easily, show some example pictures of what you mean. Or are you just going off other people's discussions without actually seeing the supposed effect?
I would say that "3D pop" needs a sharp lens with high contrast and a well-lit subject with a darker background, but the problem with that is that my idea of 3D pop might not align with yours, or other people's, because it's subjective.
At the end of the day, the same things that describe "3D pop" (to me) just describe good lenses in general.
You don't even need a prime. A Nikkor 24-70/2.8E VR will do it under the right conditions. Conversely, the most revered Zeiss or Nikkor D prime lens or whatever will completely fail to do it under the wrong conditions. The point it, any good lens, even some mediocre lenses will do it - it's more about the lighting, composition, your technique, etc.
If you still want lens recommendations, I would again say any good lens with an aperture wide enough to do shallow DoF - so Sigma Art primes, Nikon 105mm f/1.4E, Nikon pro zooms like 24-70 and 70-200, Zeiss Otus, etc. Those will do it the most easily, but it's probably possible to do it with almost anything, even certain DX kit lenses.