Z7 focus shift shooting -- a review

JimKasson

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The Nikon Z7 has a feature that has the potential to be useful for capturing images for focus stacking in postproduction. Nikon calls it focus shift shooting, which I’m going to abbreviate as FSS. It works similarly to a feature with the same name that was introduced with the D850. You set the lens to autofocus, and, either manually or with AF, focus it on the nearest part of your subject that you want to be in focus. I use manual focus, and set it a bit nearer than that. Then you tell the camera how many images you want in the stack, and how finely or coarsely the distance steps between each exposure should be made. You can tell it whether you want it to use the electronic shutter or not, and how long to wait between exposures. Then you tell it to start, and stand back while it waits a few seconds for the camera to steady, then does its magic, focusing a bit further away with each exposure. The firmware is smart enough to adjust the step sizes to compensate for differences in lens focal length, subject distance, and lens f-stop.

Used in this application, the Z7 FSS is useful, but has some drawbacks:
  • The minimum step size is too large for critical work.
  • Selecting different settings for some of the step size selections don’t actually change the step size.
  • At the end of the sequence, the camera does not return the focal point to where it was at the beginning, but instead leaves it wherever it ended up. This makes it impossible to simply repeat a set of captures.
  • The camera does not show you the captures one by one after it makes them, so you don’t know when to abort the series when the focal plane has gotten sufficiently far away.
The GFX 50S implementation of a similar feature, miscalled Focus Bracketing by Fuji, has none of the above problems.

The Z7 FSS feature is not compatible with my Sigma 105/2.8 macro lens, prematurely ending the sequence after a handful of captures, but it works fine with the Nikon 105/2.8G VR macro. Unfortunately, I like the image quality of the Sigma lens better.

There is another application for cameras that automatically capture sequences with shifted focal planes, and that is focus bracketing for landscapes and subjects that don’t move much. The difference between that and the situation described above is that the photographer intends to select just one image in post, rather than putting the sequence through stacking software. However, the way that FSS in the Z7 and Focus Bracketing in the GFX are designed, implementing that usage is so awkward that it is nearly unusable. To do this kind of focus bracketing, you’d like to have it work this way:
  • Focus on what you want sharp
  • Press the “go” button
  • Camera waits a few seconds
  • Camera makes a series of exposures with the focal planes distributed equally in front of and behind where you focused
  • Camera returns focal plane to where you focused.
I’m looking forward to that.

For now, I’ll just use it for stacking, and then only when I can’t do what I want with the GFX.

Jim

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I tried this feature in the field and found it frustrating. You have to go to the menu to activate it and by that, not seeing the image because the display is on the menu. If you use a tripod, it might be acceptable. If you don't have a tripod, forget this feature. I was hoping because the camera could do it in fast pace, it would allow me to hand hold. If I had a tripod, then I could just do it myself (i.e. changing the focus point manually) with the benefit of knowing exactly the focus points are.
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
 
I tried this feature in the field and found it frustrating. You have to go to the menu to activate it and by that, not seeing the image because the display is on the menu. If you use a tripod, it might be acceptable. If you don't have a tripod, forget this feature. I was hoping because the camera could do it in fast pace, it would allow me to hand hold. If I had a tripod, then I could just do it myself (i.e. changing the focus point manually) with the benefit of knowing exactly the focus points are.
I'm not sure how useful FSS would be without a tripod!
 
I tried this feature in the field and found it frustrating. You have to go to the menu to activate it and by that, not seeing the image because the display is on the menu. If you use a tripod, it might be acceptable. If you don't have a tripod, forget this feature. I was hoping because the camera could do it in fast pace, it would allow me to hand hold. If I had a tripod, then I could just do it myself (i.e. changing the focus point manually) with the benefit of knowing exactly the focus points are.
I'm not sure how useful FSS would be without a tripod!
Not useful for stacking, but may be useful for bracketing. The GFX implementation allows easy handheld use (Focus bracketing is simply a shutter mode in the camera), but I've never tried to use it that way because it won't do "center out" bracketing.

Jim
 
  • The minimum step size is too large for critical work.
  • Selecting different settings for some of the step size selections don’t actually change the step size.
  • At the end of the sequence, the camera does not return the focal point to where it was at the beginning, but instead leaves it wherever it ended up. This makes it impossible to simply repeat a set of captures.
  • The camera does not show you the captures one by one after it makes them, so you don’t know when to abort the series when the focal plane has gotten sufficiently far away.
Jim,

I have been experimenting with FSS and was wondering (from your post), how do you know the step size since in the camera it is just a whole number (e.g., 1, 2, 3)?

When I take a series I always have the camera set to 100 images and it stops prior to that, I believe it is stopping when it reaches infinity but I have not been able to find that in the manual.

Carl
 
  • The minimum step size is too large for critical work.
  • Selecting different settings for some of the step size selections don’t actually change the step size.
  • At the end of the sequence, the camera does not return the focal point to where it was at the beginning, but instead leaves it wherever it ended up. This makes it impossible to simply repeat a set of captures.
  • The camera does not show you the captures one by one after it makes them, so you don’t know when to abort the series when the focal plane has gotten sufficiently far away.
Jim,

I have been experimenting with FSS and was wondering (from your post), how do you know the step size since in the camera it is just a whole number (e.g., 1, 2, 3)?
I measured the focal plane for each image in several entire FSS series. The results are in the page pointed to by the link above.
When I take a series I always have the camera set to 100 images and it stops prior to that, I believe it is stopping when it reaches infinity but I have not been able to find that in the manual.
I also think that’s the case.
 
.....
  • The minimum step size is too large for critical work.
Could this aspect be worked around by re-shooting the focus stack from a slightly different starting point with the step settings unchanged and combining both stacks?

Probably not worth it if you have the Fuji already doing the job properly.
 
.....
  • The minimum step size is too large for critical work.
Could this aspect be worked around by re-shooting the focus stack from a slightly different starting point with the step settings unchanged and combining both stacks?
Ive done that trick for lens testing, but for best results you have to make sure the camera doesn’t move.
Probably not worth it if you have the Fuji already doing the job properly.
Yes.
 
I tried this feature in the field and found it frustrating. You have to go to the menu to activate it and by that, not seeing the image because the display is on the menu. If you use a tripod, it might be acceptable. If you don't have a tripod, forget this feature. I was hoping because the camera could do it in fast pace, it would allow me to hand hold. If I had a tripod, then I could just do it myself (i.e. changing the focus point manually) with the benefit of knowing exactly the focus points are.
I'm not sure how useful FSS would be without a tripod!
Not useful for stacking, but may be useful for bracketing. The GFX implementation allows easy handheld use (Focus bracketing is simply a shutter mode in the camera), but I've never tried to use it that way because it won't do "center out" bracketing.

Jim
I thought he was using it for stacking hence my comment.
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
Not my understanding st all. How would it know what’s in focus and what’s out of focus?
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
Not my understanding st all. How would it know what’s in focus and what’s out of focus?
From the manual:

"The areas displayed in white will be in focus when the pictures are stacked. Focus stack previews can only be viewed on the camera used to create them."

I assume it generates focus peaking information at each shot and combines it into one image containing black and white focus peaking information encountered during FSS.

I have not done enough FSS to determine its usefulness, but the idea seems cool.

An example: https://cdn.photographylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Nikon-Z7-Peaking-Stack-Image.jpg
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
Not my understanding st all. How would it know what’s in focus and what’s out of focus?
From the manual:

"The areas displayed in white will be in focus when the pictures are stacked. Focus stack previews can only be viewed on the camera used to create them."

I assume it generates focus peaking information at each shot and combines it into one image containing black and white focus peaking information encountered during FSS.

I have not done enough FSS to determine its usefulness, but the idea seems cool.

An example: https://cdn.photographylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Nikon-Z7-Peaking-Stack-Image.jpg
Then how come FSS works with the lens cap on?
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
Not my understanding st all. How would it know what’s in focus and what’s out of focus?
From the manual:

"The areas displayed in white will be in focus when the pictures are stacked. Focus stack previews can only be viewed on the camera used to create them."

I assume it generates focus peaking information at each shot and combines it into one image containing black and white focus peaking information encountered during FSS.

I have not done enough FSS to determine its usefulness, but the idea seems cool.

An example: https://cdn.photographylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Nikon-Z7-Peaking-Stack-Image.jpg
Then how come FSS works with the lens cap on?
I do not understand what you mean.

Peaking stack image function is just a report page, it does not influence the output of FSS, and it is thrown away once done viewing it. I assume that with the cap on, peaking stack image will be just black since nothing is found in focus. Since it is 2 am on my side, it's your turn to try it out ;-).
 
How useful do you find the peaking stack image function when doing FSS?
I have never used it. Helicon Focus is great as discarding unneeded captures, and I err on the side of too many.
It is my understanding that it verifies that you have covered enough range (no in-focus gaps), not to optimize the number of shots taken.
Not my understanding st all. How would it know what’s in focus and what’s out of focus?
From the manual:

"The areas displayed in white will be in focus when the pictures are stacked. Focus stack previews can only be viewed on the camera used to create them."

I assume it generates focus peaking information at each shot and combines it into one image containing black and white focus peaking information encountered during FSS.

I have not done enough FSS to determine its usefulness, but the idea seems cool.

An example: https://cdn.photographylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Nikon-Z7-Peaking-Stack-Image.jpg
Then how come FSS works with the lens cap on?
I do not understand what you mean.

Peaking stack image function is just a report page, it does not influence the output of FSS, and it is thrown away once done viewing it. I assume that with the cap on, peaking stack image will be just black since nothing is found in focus. Since it is 2 am on my side, it's your turn to try it out ;-).
OK. I'm beginning to understand. By "it" you meant the peaking image only, not FSS with peaking enabled. I'm surmising that by "verifies" you meant allows the user to verify.

Right?

I can see how you could tell that you haven't gone far enough into the scene. But the solution for that is to take more shots, so we're back to my "err on the side of too many captures". I fail to see how the peaking image could detect gaps, unless they're huge. WRT gaps, I always set the step size on the Z7 to 1, which, in my opinion is too large, but it's the smallest you can set.

Sweet dreams...

Jim
 

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