Will the Godox TT350 be enough and what light modifier?

Aaron801 · Oct 16, 2018

I've availed myself to shoot an event type thing. I honestly don't know too much about the details but it seems that I'll be shooting people and closer-up smaller groups (as opposed to large group portrait kinds of things. I'm not too experienced yet with flash, but I do have this TT350 unit that I've used a bit. It seems to work pretty well bouncing off of ceilings at the kind of distances that I'd be using it for. I'm not entirely sure though whether or not some of the event might be outdoors and particularly since it'll be mid day, if it's sunny out, I'll probably want to use the flash as a fill-in and I'm wondering if the TT350 is likely to be powerful enough for that.

If I am shooting out in the sun and want fill-in than I light have to use HHS, right? That'll mean that I have even less effective power, but am I still likely to have enough with fairly short range shots? Also, would I be wanting to use some kind of modifier for the flash and then what kind (inexpensive is better). I have an old tent type contraption that I could mod my TT350 flash out with some velcro and use, but is that as good an option as other things?

Basically any tips for how to set up my gear and techniques for how to shoot this kind of thing both for indoor and outdoor would be appreciated.

I've got a few weeks so I can order a modifier or even the more powerful Godox flash if need be... and if fact I'm looking at getting that other more power flash at some point anyway as I have a Godox trigger and a stand an umbrella for a second flash (I have experimented with of camera flash, but I won't be bothering with that for this particular event).

Thanks in advance for all of the good advice that I know is about to come my way!

Donald B · Oct 17, 2018

just use what you have without a modifier and just pop a little bit of flash for fill. set the flash to the widest zoom setting. the only thing you will need are pro nmhi batteries for extremely fast recycle times.

Don

golfhov · Oct 17, 2018

Aaron801 said:
I've availed myself to shoot an event type thing.

that sucks.

Aaron801 said:
I honestly don't know too much about the details but it seems that I'll be shooting people and closer-up smaller groups (as opposed to large group portrait kinds of things. I'm not too experienced yet with flash, but I do have this TT350 unit that I've used a bit. It seems to work pretty well bouncing off of ceilings at the kind of distances that I'd be using it for. I'm not entirely sure though whether or not some of the event might be outdoors and particularly since it'll be mid day, if it's sunny out, I'll probably want to use the flash as a fill-in and I'm wondering if the TT350 is likely to be powerful enough for that.

no

Aaron801 said:
If I am shooting out in the sun and want fill-in than I light have to use HHS, right?

most likely. You need HSS anytime the shutter speed exceeds the flash sync speed

Aaron801 said:
That'll mean that I have even less effective power, but am I still likely to have enough with fairly short range shots?

probably not. Then again for most of those shots you are just trying to fill the shadows and a little light can help and not cause issues.

Aaron801 said:
Also, would I be wanting to use some kind of modifier for the flash and then what kind (inexpensive is better). I have an old tent type contraption that I could mod my TT350 flash out with some velcro and use, but is that as good an option as other things?

if your already up against the limits of the flash I wouldn't put a modifier on top. If you are not against the limits yes those basic little diffusers can help

Aaron801 said:
Basically any tips for how to set up my gear and techniques for how to shoot this kind of thing both for indoor and outdoor would be appreciated.

experiment. If you cannot find someone to "model" for you then find a stand in.......a coat rack? something three dimensional and practice in different scenarios

Aaron801 said:
I've got a few weeks so I can order a modifier or even the more powerful Godox flash if need be... and if fact I'm looking at getting that other more power flash at some point anyway as I have a Godox trigger and a stand an umbrella for a second flash (I have experimented with of camera flash, but I won't be bothering with that for this particular event).

don't buy a new powerful flash just for this event. Just my two cents. You shouldn't be doing free work AND spending your own cash on someone else's event

Aaron801 said:
Thanks in advance for all of the good advice that I know is about to come my way!

get out there and practice. You will probably see things a lot faster than what you gather from reading here. Good luck

Aaron801 · Oct 17, 2018

Looks like the thing will be held indoors and though the location isn't yet known, it's likely to be in a smaller space with lower ceilings, so I can probably use bounce flash. I'm going to test out this old light tent thing that I have though and see if how that works... it'd be nice to have something that more or less does what I want without having to buy and extra little thing to sit in a drawer.

FYI, I am getting paid a bit to do this, so that would go toward the bigger flash if I were to feel like I needed it. Probably will get that thing anyway because I could see uses for it and for having two flashes to trigger... and because that Godox stuff is so well designed and so damn cheap!

ebruder · Oct 17, 2018

If you are going to bounce off of the ceiling then the "tent" doesn't serve a purpose.

BBbuilder467 · Oct 17, 2018

Aaron801 said:
I've availed myself to shoot an event type thing. I honestly don't know too much about the details but it seems that I'll be shooting people and closer-up smaller groups (as opposed to large group portrait kinds of things. I'm not too experienced yet with flash, but I do have this TT350 unit that I've used a bit. It seems to work pretty well bouncing off of ceilings at the kind of distances that I'd be using it for. I'm not entirely sure though whether or not some of the event might be outdoors and particularly since it'll be mid day, if it's sunny out, I'll probably want to use the flash as a fill-in and I'm wondering if the TT350 is likely to be powerful enough for that.

If I am shooting out in the sun and want fill-in than I light have to use HHS, right? That'll mean that I have even less effective power, but am I still likely to have enough with fairly short range shots? Also, would I be wanting to use some kind of modifier for the flash and then what kind (inexpensive is better). I have an old tent type contraption that I could mod my TT350 flash out with some velcro and use, but is that as good an option as other things?

Basically any tips for how to set up my gear and techniques for how to shoot this kind of thing both for indoor and outdoor would be appreciated.

I've got a few weeks so I can order a modifier or even the more powerful Godox flash if need be... and if fact I'm looking at getting that other more power flash at some point anyway as I have a Godox trigger and a stand an umbrella for a second flash (I have experimented with of camera flash, but I won't be bothering with that for this particular event).

Thanks in advance for all of the good advice that I know is about to come my way!

Set the aperture to f/5.6 and see how many shots you can take back to back before you deplete the reserve, and pay attention to the recycle time. That might tell you all you need to know.

Aaron801 · Oct 17, 2018

ebruder said:
If you are going to bounce off of the ceiling then the "tent" doesn't serve a purpose.

Well... it was going to going to be an either/or type thing. I'm kind of a newbie to flash but I realize that bouncing doesn't also need diffusing because the bouncing IS a diffusion method. I was merely asking the more experienced flash photographers out there that with these kind of short distance informal type photos if having some sort of light mod with my on-camera flash would be better than bouncing?

sybersitizen · Oct 17, 2018

Aaron801 said:
ebruder said:

Aaron801 said:

Looks like the thing will be held indoors and though the location isn't yet known, it's likely to be in a smaller space with lower ceilings, so I can probably use bounce flash.

Click to expand...

If you are going to bounce off of the ceiling then the "tent" doesn't serve a purpose.

Click to expand...

Well... it was going to going to be an either/or type thing. I'm kind of a newbie to flash but I realize that bouncing doesn't also need diffusing because the bouncing IS a diffusion method. I was merely asking the more experienced flash photographers out there that with these kind of short distance informal type photos if having some sort of light mod with my on-camera flash would be better than bouncing?

You don't sound very certain about the characteristics of the venue. Will the ceiling be low and light colored or high and dark? Neutral walls or anything else nearby to help spread light around? If you don't know - and you want to use something other than direct flash - you should be prepared with some kind of flash modifier.

If you truly have a choice, neither is necessarily 'better' or 'worse'. The capabilities are different and the looks are different. Bouncing can light a space with quite a bit of depth pretty evenly if you have the right surroundings and enough flash power. Diffusing works mainly to soften shadows, not throw light a longer distance. You would choose the approach that best serves the purpose.

Aaron801 · Oct 17, 2018

sybersitizen said:
Aaron801 said:

ebruder said:

Aaron801 said:

Looks like the thing will be held indoors and though the location isn't yet known, it's likely to be in a smaller space with lower ceilings, so I can probably use bounce flash.

Click to expand...

If you are going to bounce off of the ceiling then the "tent" doesn't serve a purpose.

Click to expand...

Well... it was going to going to be an either/or type thing. I'm kind of a newbie to flash but I realize that bouncing doesn't also need diffusing because the bouncing IS a diffusion method. I was merely asking the more experienced flash photographers out there that with these kind of short distance informal type photos if having some sort of light mod with my on-camera flash would be better than bouncing?

Click to expand...

You don't sound very certain about the characteristics of the venue. Will the ceiling be low and light colored or high and dark? Neutral walls or anything else nearby to help spread light around? If you don't know - and you want to use something other than direct flash - you should be prepared with some kind of flash modifier.

If you truly have a choice, neither is necessarily 'better' or 'worse'. The capabilities are different and the looks are different. Bouncing can light a space with quite a bit of depth pretty evenly if you have the right surroundings and enough flash power. Diffusing works mainly to soften shadows, not throw light a longer distance. You would choose the approach that best serves the purpose.

The venue hasn't been secured, but it's a small event so apparently it's unlikely to be held at any kind of cavernous type place with high ceilings... so I should be able to bounce, unless of corse the ceilings are dark. So... I suppose that you're right, that I should be prepared for either possibility, bouncing or some kind of modifier because I know, straight up on-camera flash is UGLY and I don't want to do that, even if I thought that I might be able to get away with it (it isn't a real high end type of thing). Of course I get that diffusion isn't used to through light a longer distance; diffusing the light easts up some of the power of it...

kiwigirl · Oct 18, 2018

Do you know how the images of the "event type thing" will be used? Is it purely for web viewing or are people buying prints?

I photograph a monthly meeting which is usually held at regular venues and I am familiar with the lighting there, but we also go to other places from time to time and I have to make it up as I go along. Our August meeting was with a small group in an old cavernous hall, poorly lit and with green felt lining half way up the wall - my heart dropped! Bouncing was useless and direct flash was ugly! So I put away the flash and used my PL 1.4 and Sigma 60 wide open and let the ISO go wherever it wanted. I was pleasantly surprised with results which were great for web viewing.

So, if you just need candid shots at low res and the lighting has you hyper-ventilating, just slap on that delicious PL 1.4 that you have in your gear list and use it wide open, and everyone will be very impressed with your shots!

Aaron801 · Oct 18, 2018

kiwigirl said:
Do you know how the images of the "event type thing" will be used? Is it purely for web viewing or are people buying prints?

I photograph a monthly meeting which is usually held at regular venues and I am familiar with the lighting there, but we also go to other places from time to time and I have to make it up as I go along. Our August meeting was with a small group in an old cavernous hall, poorly lit and with green felt lining half way up the wall - my heart dropped! Bouncing was useless and direct flash was ugly! So I put away the flash and used my PL 1.4 and Sigma 60 wide open and let the ISO go wherever it wanted. I was pleasantly surprised with results which were great for web viewing.

So, if you just need candid shots at low res and the lighting has you hyper-ventilating, just slap on that delicious PL 1.4 that you have in your gear list and use it wide open, and everyone will be very impressed with your shots!

Good point and I also have an old Olympus 50mm 1.4 lens from 35mm that I have an adaptor for. I'm OK with manual focusing and the fact that it isn't 100% sharp (for these kind of photos, I think that it'll be OK), but the focal length might be too long to get much use. I use those two lenses for low light shooting of musicians, though I'm dealing with dramatic stage light. Typical indoor lighting though can be pretty flat, but I nonetheless it'll still look loads better than straight up undiffused flash, so depending on the conditions, I might just do as you say here...

Gato Amarillo · Oct 18, 2018

Having skimmed through the thread, and as the owner of a TT350 --

- Indoors bump the ISO to help out your flash. With today's cameras you can go at least to 800, maybe 1600, with no noticeable quality loss.

- Forget the tent thing. If you bounce go with a simple bounce card -- a piece of white card stock and a rubber band will work.

- If you must use direct flash, well, it's kinda ugly but it works. This is not about great art, it's about getting decent photos of the people. Smiles and good expressions are much more important than lighting.

- Outdoors avoid HSS if you can. Probably better to stop down and stay within sync speed. Again, good expressions on the faces trumps art.

- Godox are prone to overheat, especially in HSS. Check your manual for the max flashes you can do before slowdown and be aware of it. I do not have enough experience with the 350 to give specific advice, but be aware of it as a potential problem. If the flash does go into overheat mode on most Godox you can reset it by opening the battery door or swapping batteries -- not good for the flash, but it gets you back in business.

- Carry plenty of spare batteries, and think about how you can organize them. You need to know which batteries are fresh, which are partially used, and which are out of it. If you plan to do this on a regular basis go for rechargeable. If it's a one-time affair go for alkalines.

Hope this helps.

Gato

Gato Amarillo · Oct 18, 2018

And, as others have said, test and rehearse before the event. Set up the most realistic simulation you can and do 200 or 300 shots -- be sure you know how you can handle different distance and bounce vs. direct. Get an idea of how long your batteries will last.

Good luck.

Gato

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