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AF issues using adapted EF lenses / AF Shootout vs 6D2
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Ed Rizk
Senior Member
Yes you do need 45 degrees, or close to it, in low light with low contrast. My test was on the line where the wall meets the ceiling in a dark corner. On a brighter part of the room, or on a black table against a white wall, a slight angle is perfectly fine. For a vertical line, I was unable to find anything low contrast or dark enough to give the camera any trouble at all. It provides instant and perfect focus on vertical lines of any contrast in any light.
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Ed Rizk
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Ah ya... adapted tamron lenses are not OEM EF lenses. So that is not on canon.
And long glass... meh, not surprising.
This whole thread so far was not about those super long lenses. Why someone would want to take the R for wild life is beyond me. In burst shooting you get a stop motion type view rather than live view update, so it was already subpar for wild life in the first place.
What I meant simply was that one need to have a feature such as a verticals line to cross both parts of the phase detection subpixels to give the camera something to compare in subpixel A to subpixel B.
The canon representative pretty much said just a small tilt is typically enough. In a low contrast situation it is about having enough “feature” for the sensor to do its work.
ALL mirrorless have this issue, since NONE of them are cross type or double cross type AF points.
Someone else bragged that his Leica Q is better and that they have it sorted while canon does not... which is another false assumption and not understanding how it works. Give a CDAF system a target with no contrast than it took will fail (it is contrast detection after all).
Focus on an actual subject. Your cat, dog, person, tree, etc etc and try to focus on the actual think you want to pull attention too (99% of the time it has contrast, like aomeone’s eye instead of their forehead) and it should grab focus np. So first of all... how about real world scenerios and realistic usage.
I mean have a look at the video posed in OP. The guy is testing how that camera in full auto AF mode. Would you trust your DSLR to focus on the correct subject in auto AF mode in a scene like that? No camera on earth will. And since the guy changes the framing or at least he doesn’t keep the situation even close to the same it isn’t even a valid adapt at a valid comparison.
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cross points vs only vertical PDAF may be the main culprit here for all i know..
that doesn't negate the fact this is a real issue.
I do agree the guy shouldn't have used wide mode and use single point instead.
FWIW my own personal findings were done using single point, which is how i focus 90% of the time.
Well... all mirrorless have this issue.
Mirrorless has its advantages but it also has its disadvantages. And it isn’t only single line va cross type that is the issue. A separate AF module in DSLRs also have A. Far large AF pixels. How else do you think they dealt with having less light reflected down to it? B. Some AF points are double cross type, so it has even more contrasting features to use. C. It doesn’t have an IR filter on it. So it also has that light available to it. Not sure how much the latter contributes.
The mirrorless systems don’t have micro alignment adjustments to deal with, and the nature of the thing allows for near full frame AF coverage. And the “issue” as you call it is a YMMV type thing. From the A7II to the A7III I have never one across it. Then again I never tried to take a picture of the corner line of a wall meeting g the ceiling (was both walls the same color?)
Hoka Hey
Senior Member
So far I have used my EOS R with the following:
24-70 2.8 II - Instant acquisition of subject with sharp focus wide open. On par with 5D4.
85 1.2 - Same as on 5D4, slower to focus with about the same sharpness wide open.
Can't wait to see what the RF lenses do.
Joe
24-70 2.8 II - Instant acquisition of subject with sharp focus wide open. On par with 5D4.
85 1.2 - Same as on 5D4, slower to focus with about the same sharpness wide open.
Can't wait to see what the RF lenses do.
Joe
Don’t!! Never ever update a song FE immediately upon release. Always always research and read reviews. I came across someone who said it bricked his camera and other that said his 3rd party batteries all stopped working.
i am also curious if they deal with their focus shift issue
Thanks I'm well aware of the benefits of off-sensor AF modules inside DSLRs & of the limits of MILC's.
I've used all the Sony full frames including A73, own an XT2. Have demo'd the Z7.
I'm also not shooting walls or ceilings but 3D objects.
It shouldn't hunt or take 6 seconds to go to green box imo.
Ed Rizk
Senior Member
I don't see why not, and think it's a good idea. However, focus would not be uniform throughout the frame. You would have to know where to focus how, like you do with a DSLR.
That wouldn't bother me, but it would make the AF less "idiot proof". Heck, the existing system doesn't bother me. After two days, I can tell exactly how to focus on what.
Hoka Hey
Senior Member
Which lens took 6 seconds to give you a green box?
35mm 1.4, 50mm 1.8... sometimes it will just hunt forever, i'm talking pretty stressfull situations (low light, low contrast subjects) but nothing the 5D3 can't normally handle.
Ed Rizk
Senior Member
On my R, anyway, that depends on how low the contrast AND light are. The line between my wall and ceiling in a dark corner at night requires a lot of tilt, just short of 45 degrees. I guess I could turn on the level and film it with my phone tonight if nobody believes me. Then again, maybe I'll just go out for a drink.
And it's no problem, as long as you know how it works. It's almost irrelevant in bright light.
Exactly. The eye, the face, almost any object has vertical lines or points of contrast anywhere you want focus 90+% of the time. When they don't, you just have to tilt the camera with the half press then tilt back and shoot. No big deal.
If you let the camera pick the focus point, there is no telling what you will get.
Hoka Hey
Senior Member
How do you have your AF-assist beam firing set in the AF 4 menu?
I tried the 35mm 1.4 II with the assist beam off and it performed about the same as the 5D4.
With the assist beam on, it focuses in a dark hallway if given just a little contrast or an edge or corner to focus on. Of course, you would never use it in that condition since you would have to set ISO to H2 which is too noisy to be useful.
KyleSlamchez
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I am focusing on the faces of people. Often in the dark, like dimly lit concert venues and people sitting outside at night.
I am not as one-person wrote, focusing on white sheets of paper in complete darkness. I am concerned with what a camera can do under practical circumstances.
The headline here is that if low-light autofocus can work on even one mirrorless camera model, then it's not a problem necessitative to mirrorless cameras, as some here have claimed. If one manufacturer can figure it out, then it is possible for others, as well. I have faith that Canon will be able to sort it out.
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