Tamron XR 28-200 vs Tamron XR 28-300?

I love my Sigma 28-300 hyperzoom for what it is, a very light and compact lens that can produce great pictures when used correctly.

In a discussion in the local camera club it was stated that it was impossible to use such a lens for birds.

Here is a worst case for such a lens. Wide open at 300mm and at the minimum focusing distance in cloudy daylight.

It isn't as good as what I get from L glass or my lovely Sigma 120-300, but very impressive for such a lens.

Canon 10D - Sigma 28-300 f3.5-6.3 Compact Aspherical IF Hyperzoom
Handheld @ 300mm f5.6 1/90 sec. ISO 400
100% crop with postprocessing and USM.

Jan

 
the 28-200 is aout $259 and VERY light as a walk around lens!
That's why I'm interested in it! If I ask about the 28-200 please
tell m eabout the 28-200 not other lens for other purposes
Ok, how about I tell you squat next time. Last I checked all lense served the same purpose, to get light to the film or sensor. Idid tell you about the 28-200, they are ok but not great. That's why I recommended getting a 2 lens setup
 
Ok, I have the privilegy of trying both at the same time.
I did already hundred of pictures in comparison, but I will do few more.
Here is my finding:
(I will call the 28-200 simply 200 and 28-300 simply 300 ok?)
Both are 62 filter so these are both the newest versions (the older 200 was 72)

The 300 is build from plastic, even the mount is plastic - the bottom thing that holds the lens in camera (same as normal Canon lenses). The 200 has much more metal in it (one extension ring is also metal), the bottom mount is also full metal, but I believe still screwed to a plastic main body. The 200 is still a bit lighter (but hardly noticable).

At 28 both are about the same size, the 300 being just a bit longer (about half inch?)

To put 300mm they had to really stretch things literally. At 300 the lens is looking really funny long. the 200 on full length is shorter, looking less comical. The most interesting part is that because of the changes they had to do in 300, the extended length of the 300 in 300(full) or 200 is actually pretty much the same (that means very long). The same length of the 300 and the 200 is when the 300 is at 100mm. So in any bigger zoom conditions you have the 300 extended quite a lot. (It may seems not important but in my opinion it is-read further)

Now the quality- overal the glass of these lenses seems to be same in ideal conditions (tripod, lot of light). The 300 has 6.3 at its tele-end, but that actually gets into work right after 200mm. So a breath below 200 you are at 5.6, a breath after 200mm you are at 6.3 This half stop just after 200 makes a big difference at this length (shooting 1/200 or 1/320).

Even in ideal conditions, the 300 is too much to hold steady. I was testing both lenses at 200 to be comparable (same speed, same F) and find out that I have more steady shots with the 200 lens. I think the much longer length of the extended 300 (in 200 mark) makes this lens to be more affected by shake. Of course at 200+ this makes even worse because of the 6.3

Then I blow the shot from 200 less up using lanczos 3 and bi-cubic to the pixel size of the shot from 300 lens. The results were same actually the 200 lens being a bit better since of the less shake to begin with, but overal the same detail.

Chromatic fringing are on both equally present. Not biggie, but visible on tele on many images.

Now the handling. The 200 lens zoom ring seems to be stiffer and actually it has stiff point around 50mm. The 300 lens zoom ring is smooth on whole range.

The Grid on 300 lens for zoom ring and focus ring are wider and seems to fit more to hand. Both have creep lock, but there is no creep on either one. The both lenses does rotate inside when focused not outside as in Canon so if you put filter and focus, the filter doesn't rotate. Great for C-Polar and you can actually use the Cokin type of panel filters without turning them everytime you focus.

The image quality seems to be equal, but it seems you are picking up more shake on the 300 (even at 200mm mark) and obviously a lot more on 200+

On camera, I actually like better the feel of 300 zoom ring, it has the perfect stiffness yet still smooth. The 200 lens is a bit too stiff (but not as Sigma lenses) and it has more stiffness around 50mm
Both are reasonably quiet in AF (quieter than Sigma)

So while I like he feel of the 300 lens, the 200 lens gives me better results and it doesn't look that strange on camera.

Now about the quality. These lenses are soft, yes, but maybe not as much as you would expect from such wide focal range and not as much as many people claim. Most of the "softness" is actually coming from the shake. In a reasonable zoom 100 you can actually get quite good details from the 200 lens. The 300 with its 6.3 is unfortunately on the edge of being not much usable without tripod even with good light. So you want to keep on 5.6 which then on the 300 lens means always checking the aperture in viewfinder and slowing you down.

Which one I recommend? Now if a quality is the top priority then none of them. They are bit more expensive and deliver rather the convenience over quality. A Canon 28-105 would be cheaper and better bet. And just check it out the 105 on digital is actually pretty good zoom.

If you simply want such wild zoom then 200 lens is a better deal. It is cheaper about $100-$150 and seems to work just a bit better.

Oh and don't forget to pick up the prime 50mm/1.8 for $70. These will be the best money you ever spent for razor sharp images and you may get few friends by actually being forced to come closer to subject :-)

Is there anything else you want to know?

http://www.mediachance.com
 
not much else i want to know.... just wanna thank you for the very informative post. if i may say, these are the kind of replies we expect when we post questions here. one reason seemingly similar posts keep cropping up again and again is that they haven't really been answered sufficiently. we don't mind long replies as long as it gets the message across clearly. this is one case where your thousand words is worth a hundred posted pics. :-)
Ok, I have the privilegy of trying both at the same time.
I did already hundred of pictures in comparison, but I will do few
more.
Here is my finding:
(I will call the 28-200 simply 200 and 28-300 simply 300 ok?)
Both are 62 filter so these are both the newest versions (the older
200 was 72)
The 300 is build from plastic, even the mount is plastic - the
bottom thing that holds the lens in camera (same as normal Canon
lenses). The 200 has much more metal in it (one extension ring is
also metal), the bottom mount is also full metal, but I believe
still screwed to a plastic main body. The 200 is still a bit
lighter (but hardly noticable).
At 28 both are about the same size, the 300 being just a bit longer
(about half inch?)
To put 300mm they had to really stretch things literally. At 300
the lens is looking really funny long. the 200 on full length is
shorter, looking less comical. The most interesting part is that
because of the changes they had to do in 300, the extended length
of the 300 in 300(full) or 200 is actually pretty much the same
(that means very long). The same length of the 300 and the 200 is
when the 300 is at 100mm. So in any bigger zoom conditions you have
the 300 extended quite a lot. (It may seems not important but in my
opinion it is-read further)
Now the quality- overal the glass of these lenses seems to be same
in ideal conditions (tripod, lot of light). The 300 has 6.3 at its
tele-end, but that actually gets into work right after 200mm. So a
breath below 200 you are at 5.6, a breath after 200mm you are at
6.3 This half stop just after 200 makes a big difference at this
length (shooting 1/200 or 1/320).
Even in ideal conditions, the 300 is too much to hold steady. I was
testing both lenses at 200 to be comparable (same speed, same F)
and find out that I have more steady shots with the 200 lens. I
think the much longer length of the extended 300 (in 200 mark)
makes this lens to be more affected by shake. Of course at 200+
this makes even worse because of the 6.3
Then I blow the shot from 200 less up using lanczos 3 and bi-cubic
to the pixel size of the shot from 300 lens. The results were same
actually the 200 lens being a bit better since of the less shake to
begin with, but overal the same detail.
Chromatic fringing are on both equally present. Not biggie, but
visible on tele on many images.
Now the handling. The 200 lens zoom ring seems to be stiffer and
actually it has stiff point around 50mm. The 300 lens zoom ring is
smooth on whole range.
The Grid on 300 lens for zoom ring and focus ring are wider and
seems to fit more to hand. Both have creep lock, but there is no
creep on either one. The both lenses does rotate inside when
focused not outside as in Canon so if you put filter and focus, the
filter doesn't rotate. Great for C-Polar and you can actually use
the Cokin type of panel filters without turning them everytime you
focus.
The image quality seems to be equal, but it seems you are picking
up more shake on the 300 (even at 200mm mark) and obviously a lot
more on 200+
On camera, I actually like better the feel of 300 zoom ring, it has
the perfect stiffness yet still smooth. The 200 lens is a bit too
stiff (but not as Sigma lenses) and it has more stiffness around
50mm
Both are reasonably quiet in AF (quieter than Sigma)

So while I like he feel of the 300 lens, the 200 lens gives me
better results and it doesn't look that strange on camera.
Now about the quality. These lenses are soft, yes, but maybe not as
much as you would expect from such wide focal range and not as much
as many people claim. Most of the "softness" is actually coming
from the shake. In a reasonable zoom 100 you can actually get
quite good details from the 200 lens. The 300 with its 6.3 is
unfortunately on the edge of being not much usable without tripod
even with good light. So you want to keep on 5.6 which then on the
300 lens means always checking the aperture in viewfinder and
slowing you down.


Which one I recommend? Now if a quality is the top priority then
none of them. They are bit more expensive and deliver rather the
convenience over quality. A Canon 28-105 would be cheaper and
better bet. And just check it out the 105 on digital is actually
pretty good zoom.
If you simply want such wild zoom then 200 lens is a better deal.
It is cheaper about $100-$150 and seems to work just a bit better.

Oh and don't forget to pick up the prime 50mm/1.8 for $70. These
will be the best money you ever spent for razor sharp images and
you may get few friends by actually being forced to come closer to
subject :-)

Is there anything else you want to know?

http://www.mediachance.com
 
Thanks a lot...I ended up with the 200 and it seems pretty good except for the CA on tele...is tehre a plugin you use for that?

Also which program do you use for Lanczos.....qimage or something else?

Thanks!
Jordan
 
The aperture of a lens does not normally 'change' suddenly at any point. The lens just starts reporting 6.3 to the body at that point. The SS may change to be slower, but the picture will be exposed a little brighter. A picture taken a 199mm and one at 201mm with the same shutter speed both wide-open should look pretty much identical. Only the metering has changed.

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the optical aperture change is continuous throughout the range.
Ok, I have the privilegy of trying both at the same time.
I did already hundred of pictures in comparison, but I will do few
more.
Here is my finding:
(I will call the 28-200 simply 200 and 28-300 simply 300 ok?)
Both are 62 filter so these are both the newest versions (the older
200 was 72)
The 300 is build from plastic, even the mount is plastic - the
bottom thing that holds the lens in camera (same as normal Canon
lenses). The 200 has much more metal in it (one extension ring is
also metal), the bottom mount is also full metal, but I believe
still screwed to a plastic main body. The 200 is still a bit
lighter (but hardly noticable).
At 28 both are about the same size, the 300 being just a bit longer
(about half inch?)
To put 300mm they had to really stretch things literally. At 300
the lens is looking really funny long. the 200 on full length is
shorter, looking less comical. The most interesting part is that
because of the changes they had to do in 300, the extended length
of the 300 in 300(full) or 200 is actually pretty much the same
(that means very long). The same length of the 300 and the 200 is
when the 300 is at 100mm. So in any bigger zoom conditions you have
the 300 extended quite a lot. (It may seems not important but in my
opinion it is-read further)
Now the quality- overal the glass of these lenses seems to be same
in ideal conditions (tripod, lot of light). The 300 has 6.3 at its
tele-end, but that actually gets into work right after 200mm. So a
breath below 200 you are at 5.6, a breath after 200mm you are at
6.3 This half stop just after 200 makes a big difference at this
length (shooting 1/200 or 1/320).
Even in ideal conditions, the 300 is too much to hold steady. I was
testing both lenses at 200 to be comparable (same speed, same F)
and find out that I have more steady shots with the 200 lens. I
think the much longer length of the extended 300 (in 200 mark)
makes this lens to be more affected by shake. Of course at 200+
this makes even worse because of the 6.3
Then I blow the shot from 200 less up using lanczos 3 and bi-cubic
to the pixel size of the shot from 300 lens. The results were same
actually the 200 lens being a bit better since of the less shake to
begin with, but overal the same detail.
Chromatic fringing are on both equally present. Not biggie, but
visible on tele on many images.
Now the handling. The 200 lens zoom ring seems to be stiffer and
actually it has stiff point around 50mm. The 300 lens zoom ring is
smooth on whole range.
The Grid on 300 lens for zoom ring and focus ring are wider and
seems to fit more to hand. Both have creep lock, but there is no
creep on either one. The both lenses does rotate inside when
focused not outside as in Canon so if you put filter and focus, the
filter doesn't rotate. Great for C-Polar and you can actually use
the Cokin type of panel filters without turning them everytime you
focus.
The image quality seems to be equal, but it seems you are picking
up more shake on the 300 (even at 200mm mark) and obviously a lot
more on 200+
On camera, I actually like better the feel of 300 zoom ring, it has
the perfect stiffness yet still smooth. The 200 lens is a bit too
stiff (but not as Sigma lenses) and it has more stiffness around
50mm
Both are reasonably quiet in AF (quieter than Sigma)

So while I like he feel of the 300 lens, the 200 lens gives me
better results and it doesn't look that strange on camera.
Now about the quality. These lenses are soft, yes, but maybe not as
much as you would expect from such wide focal range and not as much
as many people claim. Most of the "softness" is actually coming
from the shake. In a reasonable zoom 100 you can actually get
quite good details from the 200 lens. The 300 with its 6.3 is
unfortunately on the edge of being not much usable without tripod
even with good light. So you want to keep on 5.6 which then on the
300 lens means always checking the aperture in viewfinder and
slowing you down.


Which one I recommend? Now if a quality is the top priority then
none of them. They are bit more expensive and deliver rather the
convenience over quality. A Canon 28-105 would be cheaper and
better bet. And just check it out the 105 on digital is actually
pretty good zoom.
If you simply want such wild zoom then 200 lens is a better deal.
It is cheaper about $100-$150 and seems to work just a bit better.

Oh and don't forget to pick up the prime 50mm/1.8 for $70. These
will be the best money you ever spent for razor sharp images and
you may get few friends by actually being forced to come closer to
subject :-)

Is there anything else you want to know?

http://www.mediachance.com
 
I have a 10D and had both of these lenses - on a 10D they are both
very soft and as a result I sold the 28-300 which was much worse
than the 28-200. I have kept the 28-200 as it works well on my
wifes eos30 and is a very handy size but it is never going to get
used on the 10D again; it is simply not up to the image quality I
want. They seem OK on film cameras but not on the 10D.
These lenses may not be best for digital cameras...
the ray of light is not going straight through the back lens.
Anders Uschold has written about this phenomena.
I've only experiences with film SLR with those lenses...

(I've not taken the money to buy me into a true DSLR because I hope to get far more MP for the same money next year - and the argueing about focus problems with the 10D or the possible lack of sharpness of the Pentax *ist D is holding me back...)
;-)
Paul
 
I have a 10D and had both of these lenses - on a 10D they are both
very soft and as a result I sold the 28-300 which was much worse
than the 28-200. I have kept the 28-200 as it works well on my
wifes eos30 and is a very handy size but it is never going to get
used on the 10D again; it is simply not up to the image quality I
want. They seem OK on film cameras but not on the 10D.
These lenses may not be best for digital cameras...
the ray of light is not going straight through the back lens.
Anders Uschold has written about this phenomena.
It has no significant relevance to a crop-factored DSLR.
I've only experiences with film SLR with those lenses...
(I've not taken the money to buy me into a true DSLR because I hope
to get far more MP for the same money next year - and the argueing
about focus problems with the 10D or the possible lack of sharpness
of the Pentax *ist D is holding me back...)
Havn't heard about the *ist problem. Would be interested to know your source.

Cheers.
 
Ok, I did few more tests today with tripod and I can say very positively:
  • the 200 lens sharpness is visibly and repeatedly better than the 300lens at its 200mm mark. I used tripod, remote shutter and same aperture.
  • the 200 lens is a bit faster in whole range than the 300 lens (using same focus length) For example on 5.6 with 200 lens I can get 1/320, with 300 lens on 200mm mark I can get 1/250 with 5.6
  • the 200 lens is sharper also in other ranges, tried 28 and 100mm. The 300 lens is getting really soft on 28mm and softer on 100mm
  • the 300 lens has a bit less Chroma errors than 200 lens.
  • while the 300 lens shows its softness almost in whole range it is actually pretty sharp at its 300mm mark, in my test it come out repeatedly sharper than Canon 75-300 III on 300 mm and has also less chroma problems. (the real 300 mm zoom on Canon appear however larger (FOV smnaller) than the 300 on Tamron). They obviously tune the tamron to work well on 300mm.
So as a walk about lens the 200 is actually quite good. I can't recommend the 300, only to impress bystanders how long you have it.

BTW, the comparisons of 200 with other Canon lenses I could find and borrow (I also tried a nice Prime) come up not bad at all. The Tamron 28-200 is a very good lens. Not perfect, but VERY GOOD.

I tried various scenarious, outdoor/indoor. One of other day I will post pics to my website, but now I have to run.

P.S. I put lanczos 3 to PhotoBrush. While it is a good soft, please understand it is not match for photoshop.
O.
not much else i want to know.... just wanna thank you for the very
informative post. if i may say, these are the kind of replies we
expect when we post questions here. one reason seemingly similar
posts keep cropping up again and again is that they haven't really
been answered sufficiently. we don't mind long replies as long as
it gets the message across clearly. this is one case where your
thousand words is worth a hundred posted pics. :-)
 
I have a 10D and had both of these lenses - on a 10D they are both
very soft and as a result I sold the 28-300 which was much worse
than the 28-200. I have kept the 28-200 as it works well on my
wifes eos30 and is a very handy size but it is never going to get
used on the 10D again; it is simply not up to the image quality I
want. They seem OK on film cameras but not on the 10D.
These lenses may not be best for digital cameras...
the ray of light is not going straight through the back lens.
Anders Uschold has written about this phenomena.
It has no significant relevance to a crop-factored DSLR.
Shure ?
Even at 28mm ?
I don't think so !
I've only experiences with film SLR with those lenses...
(I've not taken the money to buy me into a true DSLR because I hope
to get far more MP for the same money next year - and the argueing
about focus problems with the 10D or the possible lack of sharpness
of the Pentax *ist D is holding me back...)
Havn't heard about the *ist problem. Would be interested to know
your source.
There is some rumour in the Pentax forum about the sample pictures taken with the *ist D being not as sharp as 300D/10D. Nobody showed any samples from production shots.
 
I have a 10D and had both of these lenses - on a 10D they are both
very soft and as a result I sold the 28-300 which was much worse
than the 28-200. I have kept the 28-200 as it works well on my
wifes eos30 and is a very handy size but it is never going to get
used on the 10D again; it is simply not up to the image quality I
want. They seem OK on film cameras but not on the 10D.
These lenses may not be best for digital cameras...
the ray of light is not going straight through the back lens.
Anders Uschold has written about this phenomena.
It has no significant relevance to a crop-factored DSLR.
Shure ?
Even at 28mm ?
I don't think so !
Yes, I'm sure. What is your evidence? Many zooms actually are less telecentric at the long-end. Even assuming the exit-pupil is within 1cm of the lens mount (which is rare) the angle to the corners of a cropped sensor are still small, even with a large-pupil/fast lens. Show me some evidence, other than Oly hype that there are angle-of-incidence issues with a crop-factored DSLR.
I've only experiences with film SLR with those lenses...
(I've not taken the money to buy me into a true DSLR because I hope
to get far more MP for the same money next year - and the argueing
about focus problems with the 10D or the possible lack of sharpness
of the Pentax *ist D is holding me back...)
Havn't heard about the *ist problem. Would be interested to know
your source.
There is some rumour in the Pentax forum about the sample pictures
taken with the *ist D being not as sharp as 300D/10D. Nobody showed
any samples from production shots.
Ok, thanks. Say the front page news just after I posted this.
 
I hate to tell you this, but my tamron 28-300 is the worst piece of junk I own. I hear they work okay with film cameras, but not with my 10D. Everything is soft and the color/saturation is horrible. Go for a canon lens, you'll be glad you did.

Regards,
Hansol
 
I agree tamron just touted as the best selling all around lens. But really let me down after shoot some slide.

Only use for snap shot - don't have other lens in 28-50 range.
I hate to tell you this, but my tamron 28-300 is the worst piece of
junk I own. I hear they work okay with film cameras, but not with
my 10D. Everything is soft and the color/saturation is horrible.
Go for a canon lens, you'll be glad you did.

Regards,
Hansol
--
Jame BJ
 
the time of day!

Majestyk was offering you quality advise, and also managed to answer your question.

There was no need for such a reply!

I say go and get the 28-300 which you are finding all the necessary excuses for, just don't expect much out of it, or much for it when you realise its limitations.
the 28-200 is aout $259 and VERY light as a walk around lens!
That's why I'm interested in it! If I ask about the 28-200 please
tell m eabout the 28-200 not other lens for other purposes

Thanks
Jordan
I didnt spend $1500 on the body either.....more like $899

Jordan
With both you and Banana chips.
I think Jordan should listen to what he himself preachs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1031&message=6055011
Tamron is not much if any better than Quantaray and if your going
to spend $1500 on a body, do yourself a favor and don't skimp on
the most important aspect of the entire camera system (the part
that forms the image, the lens)

Jack

--
http://www.pbase.com/joneill
--
G3 User Fan & Faq page
http://fotoluxe.com/cameras/g3
Tamron make some excellent lenses. Extreme ratio zooms are full of
compromises, but some of the 28-200 aren't too bad. However, you
won't look back if you save up for the Canon 70-200 f/4L and the
Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 Di XR. Those two lenses are about $850 total and
will produce stunning results. The Tamron is very good for the
money and gives the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L a good run.

If you don't have the dollars try the Canon 100-300 f/3.5-5.6 and
say the 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS. These two will set you back about $600.
--
G3 User Fan & Faq page
http://fotoluxe.com/cameras/g3
--
If only thire wos money to mayke owt of typo's
 

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