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Lighter photo kit
- Thread starter Rodrigo Penha Coutinho
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Yeah, it's a great kit. World class, in fact. The IBIS will compensate for the smaller M43 sensor for landscape and nature photography. And when IBIS is not so helpful, for his sports photography...then the faster f2.8 telephoto lens will compensate.+ 1
Also - Oly JPGs are fairly close to Canon JPG (I shoot both).
Kelly
I would also be tempted (in the position of the thread starter) to buy a second more compact and very cheap M43 body; say, an Olympus EM10 ii or a GX85/80 with a couple of tiny fast primes or pancake lenses to experience the full portability advantage of Micro 43.
As I said earlier, these combos can be so light that you forget that you are carrying them!
KCook
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My temptress will always be a Fuji X100T.
leicarefugee
leicarefugee
Astrotripper
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Olympus E-M1 Mark II with their 12-100mm f/4 (my examples here ).
It is the ultimate "one camera does all" kind of deal among interchangeable lens cameras. As a bonus, you get unparalleled stabilisation that allows you to shoot multi second exposures handheld (with some practice and good technique of course, my examples here). This is a combo that can handle something like 90% of usual shooting scenarios. And while this is not a tiny kit (it's actually big in Micro 4/3 world), it is nearly half the weight of your Canon with 24-70 (assuming it's an f/2.8) and noticeably smaller while offering more than twice the range at comparable image quality (the 12-100 is basically the best super zoom ever made).
This will not go all the way to super telephoto reach, but for that you can always get the affordable Panasonic 100-300 II (some of my shots here ). It's not gonna be as good as your 100-400, but is much cheaper, smaller and lighter and goes all the way to 600 mm equivalent.
And all that is weather resistant. I just returned from a trip to Norway and it (E-M1 II + 12-100) was routinely drenched in rain for two days there and it was just shooting as usual.
One thing you loose (there's always something you need to give up when downsizing) is the ease of getting shallow depth of field. If you want shallow DoF that you are used to getting with your Canon, you will have to get a prime lens. There's plenty of those for Micro 4/3, though.
And if you have time and patience to fiddle with a tripod, you can always use a high Res mode that will give you image quality that surpasses your Canon. But it is fiddly and fairly limited feature in the field. However, the results can be very nice:
This is scaled down from the original 80mp raw file. This is usually the image size I export those high res shots.
And Olympus is running a promotion now that lets you save 350 EUR, see here .
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Rodrigo Penha Coutinho
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Thank you very much. I will surely look into it.
In the mft world, in your opinion, Olympus is best than Panasonic or they both have their up and downs.
What bodys would you advise, for an enthusiast (although amateur) like me?
In the mft world, in your opinion, Olympus is best than Panasonic or they both have their up and downs.
What bodys would you advise, for an enthusiast (although amateur) like me?
Overall, neither Olympus or Panasonic is definitively better than the other. Both have their strong points. (And as I said, you can mix and match their cameras and lenses to give you a huge lens eco system).
Panasonic is better at video, but you say that this isn't a consideration of yours. Olympus has always been known for their excellent jpegs, and used to be much better than Panasonic here. But apparently, Panasonic is catching up and are getting pretty close in jpeg quality/ colour with their later cameras.
I won't list recommend Panasonic cameras, as besides knowing that the GX85/80 is currently at a great value, bargain price...my knowledge of Panasonic cameras is limited. So I'll only talk about Olympus.
The main thing which restricts your choice of Olympus cameras is that you do some sports photography. Most Micro 43 cameras have a weakness that their C-AF (continual auto focus) is not as good as that of DSLR cameras.
If you use S-AF (single auto focus) for sports, then Micro 43 will be at least as good as, or even much better than a DSLR camera. But if you rely on C-AF to lock focus on and track rapidly moving subjects, the only Olympus cameras that can do this well are the OMD EM1 and its replacement, the OMD EM1 mark ii. These are the top of the range, fully professional Olympus flagship models.
The Olympus EM5 ii is a great 'semi-pro' camera, smaller and lighter, but still fully featured and weather proofed...but its C-AF for rapidly moving subjects as in sports photography is noticably weaker than that of the EM1s.
The Olympus EM10 ii is a fantastic value 'enthusiast' level camera (superior to its replacement, the mark iii, which had useful features stripped out of it). It has almost the same functionality as the pricier EM5 II (it lacks weather sealing an a few lesser specialist features). The image quality of the EM10 II is identical to the pricier EM5 II. But again, it has the weaker C-AF if you photograph sports.
Hope this helps!
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'Photography is not art. It's pressing buttons. People take it up because they can't draw.' Lord Snowdon
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Astrotripper
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As with everything, each has different strengths. Panasonic has better video in general, even on their non-video centric cameras. They also have better touchscreen implementation. Each has some unique features. Some are actually quite similar, but done differently for example.
The best ones are Olympus E-M1 Mark II and Panasonic G9 (ignoring video centric GH line from Panasonic). Olympus is smaller and a better pairing for the 12-100, that's why I mentioned it. G9 is larger and heavier, but is better in some ways. It has an amazing viewfinder, for example. For people that want to go crazy on super telephoto, that's probably the camera to get in Micro 4/3 world. And pair it with bazookas like Panasonic 100-400 or 200/2.8.
In Panasonic world, the closest to your current Canon kit would be G9 or G85 with 12-35mm f/2.8 and 50-200mm f/2.8-4.
I recommended the E-M1 II + 12-100 because of convenience factor. It's a single kit that you could take to do almost anything. IMHO, it's a perfect balance of quality, performance, bulk and convenience.
Both Panasonic and Olympus make smaller bodies of course, but you have to look at it as a whole. If you really want to shoot super tele, I would not recommend any of the smaller bodies with limited grips, like GX9 or E-M5 II. Well, with E-M5 Mark II you can kinda have it both ways, as there is a two part battery grip accessory for it. It's a small camera without that grip, perfect for smaller zooms or one of many small primes.
Basically the smaller you go the more you loose. Reach, speed, ergonomics, and so on.
Anyway, have a look at this comparison . Hover the mouse cursor over a camera to get details on sizes and weights.
Dr Hal
Senior Member
When I reached the point where it was no longer enjoyable to carry my DSLR and at least one or two heavy lenses, I tried m43. That was in 2010. I have enjoyed my m43 equipment enormously. The IQ is excellent and getting better and better. I have owned both Olympus and Panasonic. I prefer the Panasonic cameras because of the much easier menu system. The bodies and lenses are much smaller and the system is very complete. Give it a try and you will be very happy with the results.
Hal
Hal
Bobthearch
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If it gets to the point I can't carry a Nikon D5600 (16 oz) and a kit lens (7 oz)...
I probably be in no shape to be out on adventures taking photos anyway.
I probably be in no shape to be out on adventures taking photos anyway.
You won't carry a set of DSLR zooms anywhere near as small and light as the M43 Olympus 9-18mm, the Panasonic 12-32mm and 35-100mm.If it gets to the point I can't carry a Nikon D5600 (16 oz) and a kit lens (7 oz)...
I probably be in no shape to be out on adventures taking photos anyway.
And crucially, there are hardly any fast primes in Nikon APSC. Nikon refuse to make them. I waited in vain for 15 years for Nikon to make a dedicated APSC portrait lens.
Plus there are many other advantages to shooting mirrorless: better video, IBIS, live composite...the EVF viewfinder makes a huge difference, allowing you to see the image before you take it, and see adjustments made in real time...a real game changer.
DSLRS still have their own advantages (e.g much better battery life) and are better for certain things (e.g sports photography). But having shot both, I can say that mirrorless are definitely superior in many respects.
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'Photography is not art. It's pressing buttons. People take it up because they can't draw.' Lord Snowdon
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Jacques Cornell
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Sure, but what if you want reach out to 400mm EFL or more? I went MFT instead of APS mainly because a body with several lenses covering a wide range of focal lengths, including some nice bright primes, was a lot more portable.If it gets to the point I can't carry a Nikon D5600 (16 oz) and a kit lens (7 oz)...
I probably be in no shape to be out on adventures taking photos anyway.
If all you want is one body and one lens, you're better off with a compact or superzoom.
Jacques Cornell
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Yeah. I shot film SLRs for 15 years. I was an OVF snob and loved my Contax RTSIII and Pentax 67II for their big, bright viewfinders. I even modded my RTSIII with an aftermarket Beattie Intenscreen to make the OVF even brighter. Then, I shot DSLRs for 10 years. Now, after shooting mirrorless for almost 5 years, I cannot imagine going back to an OVF. EVFs are big and bright, they let me see in the dark, and I know before pressing the shutter what my exposure and WB will look like. No more chimping.You won't carry a set of DSLR zooms anywhere near as small and light as the M43 Olympus 9-18mm, the Panasonic 12-32mm and 35-100mm.If it gets to the point I can't carry a Nikon D5600 (16 oz) and a kit lens (7 oz)...
I probably be in no shape to be out on adventures taking photos anyway.
And crucially, there are hardly any fast primes in Nikon APSC. Nikon refuse to make them. I waited in vain for 15 years for Nikon to make a dedicated APSC portrait lens.
Plus there are many other advantages to shooting mirrorless: better video, IBIS, live composite...the EVF viewfinder makes a huge difference, allowing you to see the image before you take it, and see adjustments made in real time...a real game changer.
This gap is narrowing. On busy days, my Panasonics deliver upwards of 1000 frames per battery. Sony's MkIIIs reportedly do even better.
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Rodrigo Penha Coutinho
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Hi again,
I wish to thank you all for the feedback and time you took to reply to my doubts.
It seems my future is indeed mft.
However, before taking the plundge, selling my gear and buying an entire new system, just one thing remains, image quality.
Can you provide Olympus or Panasonic, full res samples of photos, so i can see the quality you mention ?
Thank you in advance
I wish to thank you all for the feedback and time you took to reply to my doubts.
It seems my future is indeed mft.
However, before taking the plundge, selling my gear and buying an entire new system, just one thing remains, image quality.
Can you provide Olympus or Panasonic, full res samples of photos, so i can see the quality you mention ?
Thank you in advance
I'm typing on my phone so it is currently awkward to post multiple links. And I'm not sure what the best sources for full res images are.
But try the dpreview image samples on the review of the cameras you are interested in. However, these will be slightly bland test shots.
For more artistic work, look at Robin Wong's Olympus camera and lens reviews on his blog. Lots of impressive work there! Maybe some at full res?
I can't remember if Steve Huff offers full res shots on his website.
Not full res, but check out Jay Dickman. An Olympus shooter for National Geographic, who have some of the highest standard of photography in the world. He wouldn't be working for them if his images were technically lacking.
https://www.jaydickman.net/National-Geographic/Around-the-World-2013/3
And look up 'Olympus Visionaries' and 'Lumix Ambassadors' for more high level professional work.
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Jacques Cornell
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You can download DPR's Studio Test shots, even RAW. Sorry, but I don't let my full-rez files out into the wild without a contract.
If you can afford it, I highly recommend getting your hands on an MFT kit for a while before selling your other gear. This is what I did. I bought a very modest used kit and shot it side-by-side with my Canon kit for a year. Once I was satisfied that MFT could do all I needed, I upgraded the kit and sold off my Canon gear. You can get a brand new GX85 with a good kit lens for under $500. If you change your mind, you can sell it used for maybe a $100 loss. That's a cheap price to pay for peace of mind.
Astrotripper
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There's plenty of photos for download from DPReview and Imaging Resource sample galleries. JPEGs and raw files. Just download the ones you like and check them out yourself.
Also, you can test Olympus gear for free, they have a Test & Wow program just for that.
golfhov
Forum Pro
base ISO. This is Olympus newest and greatest 20MP sensor against a bridge, your camera, and a sony a7iii.
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/im...x=-0.008611911918051893&y=0.40906856050259494
and high ISO
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/im...x=-0.008611911918051893&y=0.40906856050259494
feel free to crank the sliders around and slide the magnifier around. Although doing extreme edges could let the lens have more impact than the camera. The bridge has .....well the bridge lens. The ILCs all have high quality mid range primes
That is about as apples to apples as it gets. The 5dii still holds up pretty well against the best that 4/3 has
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D
day_pass
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I agree that m43 may be the way to go and I do have and use the olympus pro 40-150 and 12-40 on an em1 mk1. There is also a huge range of glass available at most price points and several long teles.
You are always going to lose something in low light capability ( and increased DoF ) with smaller sensors - that's just physics - but the IQ for most shots may be fine for what you require even if a bit behind a full frame camera.
It would be a shame if you have to give up on the Canon 5dii and, in particular, the brilliant 100-400.
If you are able to, its well worth begging or borrowing or trying stuff out in a camera shop to see how it feels. I mention this because the em1 and the 40-150 can feel a little bit ( front ) heavier than it is - if that makes sense?
I typically use a D500 or D750 with a Tamron 100-400 which is about 500 g lighter than the Canon 100-400 ( and this reflects in its consummer build and slightly poorer optics ).
The combo of the D500 and tamron is about 500g more than the oly+40-150 but, for me, it doesn't feel like that because of the ergonomics of the DSLR body - its bigger of course - but I can comfortably hold the Nikon combo with one hand whereas the Olympus setup can be uncomfortable - and that, of course, is just how it feels for me.
I am NOT suggesting that you consider this Nikon/Tamron system but that its worth trying out your options, particularly if you are going to use long teles.
You are always going to lose something in low light capability ( and increased DoF ) with smaller sensors - that's just physics - but the IQ for most shots may be fine for what you require even if a bit behind a full frame camera.
It would be a shame if you have to give up on the Canon 5dii and, in particular, the brilliant 100-400.
If you are able to, its well worth begging or borrowing or trying stuff out in a camera shop to see how it feels. I mention this because the em1 and the 40-150 can feel a little bit ( front ) heavier than it is - if that makes sense?
I typically use a D500 or D750 with a Tamron 100-400 which is about 500 g lighter than the Canon 100-400 ( and this reflects in its consummer build and slightly poorer optics ).
The combo of the D500 and tamron is about 500g more than the oly+40-150 but, for me, it doesn't feel like that because of the ergonomics of the DSLR body - its bigger of course - but I can comfortably hold the Nikon combo with one hand whereas the Olympus setup can be uncomfortable - and that, of course, is just how it feels for me.
I am NOT suggesting that you consider this Nikon/Tamron system but that its worth trying out your options, particularly if you are going to use long teles.
Rodrigo Penha Coutinho
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Going the low budget, "try first route" as you sugested, would you say the GX85 is a better machine as say a Sony A6000?
The Panasonic is a few more generations well established than the Sony. So it is closer to being fully matured, with more features slickly and seamlessly integrated. The Sony is newer so I would expect it to be somewhat 'rougher around the edges'.
Panasonic has the powerful and game-changing feature of IBIS and the Sony does not.
The Micro 43 system (Olympus and Panasonic) gets you entry into a far wider and more affordable eco-system of lenses.
The Panasonic 12-32mm Pancake lens that comes as part of the kit is excellent, mine is razor sharp from wide open.
Sony's advantage is the larger sensor, which will give you better low light images (by about 1 stop) of moving subjects. But I'm not sure how Sony's lenses/ auto focus are vs the Panasonic DFD tech. I'm not sure of the Sony's auto focus is in low light.
For still subjects in low light like landscapes/cityscapes/interiors, then the Panasonic has the strong advantage due to IBIS. A massive additional four stop advantage.
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'Photography is not art. It's pressing buttons. People take it up because they can't draw.' Lord Snowdon
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