3rd party glass

Well, there's the Zeiss Touit lenses.
True, I have the 12mm and like it very much. But I fear Zeiss is not going to develop new APS-C lenses soon...
Sigma and Tamron, probably not. You know, anything could happen, but as far as the third-party makers are concerned, the future is full-frame. They now have two new full-frame mirrorless mounts to start fitting their lenses to -- ones that are likely to be extremely popular -- and that's going to keep them busy.
I was hoping a diminishing APS-C market might be an incentive for them to do some work to bring their APS-C designs to X-mount as well, so they have a somewhat larger market and can still sell them. But if Fuji stays too small, that won't be of course.
 
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Let’s hope sigma does jump in. Even if they only make an adapter which gives full AF like they do for Sony. One could make the case that Fuji fans and Sigma (camera) fans have something in common - both like non-Bayer sensors and distinctive color rendering from the respective companies. So, current Fuji users would be the best target to dip toes into the Foveon camera world..... now if there were only lenses available that could be used on both cameras (with and without an adapter) 🤔 .... fingers crossed.

Fuji would benefit too... by having longer and more unique glass available to those who want to jump onboard the X-train. Until they can come up with native Fuji lenses. Definitely going to be a factor for people considering which mirrorless brand to get into - now that all the major manufacturers have a mirrorless offering.
 
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Yes Tom that was what I meant. Curious, since you mention having a couple manual focus lenses that you're pleased with, which ones are they? I haven't tried too much in the way of newer manual lenses since my vintage lens collection is fairly sizable but I'm very open to suggestions.
I have these three and they are all excellent.

Mitakon Zhongyi 35mm F0.95 Mark II, X-mount:


Rokinon 21mm F1.4 X-mount:


Samyang 85mm F1.4 X-mount:


This 85mm is older. A new 85mm F1.8 X-mount is coming this month, and it is smaller, being expressly designed for mirrorless. I haven't ordered mine yet:


I also have a 300mm F6.3 x-mount but it does not support full resolution on the X-T100 or the X-E1. Besides, it is quite difficult to use:

 
I think you must mean third party lenses that autofocus on the Fujis.

There are plenty of great third party manual lenses out there. I own three that are excellent, and at least one more that is adequate. But they are completely manual.
Yup! I use my Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 with a K&F Concept Nikon(G)-FX adaptor. All manual, but it works well.
 
What are the third party legalities of this?

For manual focus lenses, it seems anyone can make a mount or an adapter that will fit mechanically.

But what about lenses with full AF, AE, etc?

In order to get the specs for the lens contacts signals (for AF, etc) does a third party manufacturer have to pay a license fee or something to Fujifilm?
 
Fuji would benefit too... by having longer and more unique glass available to those who want to jump onboard the X-train. Until they can come up with native Fuji lenses. Definitely going to be a factor for people considering which mirrorless brand to get into - now that all the major manufacturers have a mirrorless offering.
It gets down to the cost to reverse engineer the interface and to maintain the reverse engineering as the cameras progress. Fuji is a small niche player and the excitement over the X-T3 not withstanding - I don't see enough units sold to incentivize Sigma to spend the money when there are much larger opportunities out there - a whole new Canon and Nikon mount for example.

Today with one addition, the camera companies could lock out third party lenses. There was some talk that Nikon might have done that with their Z mount cameras. It's too soon to know I suspect. If that happened the third party lenses would have to pay a fee for the interface which of course would increase the cost of the lenses.

However, I don't see Sigma or Tamron jumping on the Fuji bandwagon anytime soon when there are two much bigger fish to fry with the promise of a lot more return.
 
And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.


a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
 
What are the third party legalities of this?

For manual focus lenses, it seems anyone can make a mount or an adapter that will fit mechanically.

But what about lenses with full AF, AE, etc?

In order to get the specs for the lens contacts signals (for AF, etc) does a third party manufacturer have to pay a license fee or something to Fujifilm?
Sigma has lost a major legal action over it's implementation of their OIS. They infringed a Nikon patent on their VR system and ending up paying.

But patents are only good for a limited time period and when the patent has expired there is nothing from keeping anyone from buying a camera and lens and trying to reverse engineer the protocol and then making a lens that will talk with the camera.

There are methods that camera companies could use to insure that their protocol was more difficult to reverse engineer or even if they did the camera would not recognize the lens as a valid say Nikon lens and there was some discussion I read some time back that Nikon was looking into that approach.
 
The economics of third party lens production is to leverage your lenses across different mounts. Whether it's worth it for Sigma and the like to reverse engineer X mount partly depends on whether they have the lenses that would be attractive to X mount photographers.

At present, I'm not sure that's the case. The only 'designed for mirrorless' lenses are ones that are unattractive because they are aimed at full frame cameras (eg. Firin 20, Tamron 28-75) or because Fuji has lenses of their type well covered (Sigma 16 f1.4, the compact primes).

However, now Canon and Nikon are active in the mirrorless market, I expect we will see a fair number of releases that are designed for mirrorless and would be of interest to Fuji users as there is no Fuji version. For example, 70-200 f2.8s, 150-600 f6.3, 135 f1.8, 85 f1.4.

Once that happens, it will be more worth their while to reverse engineer the mount, however many X mount users there are.
 
Today with one addition, the camera companies could lock out third party lenses. There was some talk that Nikon might have done that with their Z mount cameras.
From what I understand (most likely hearsay), the Z doesn't meter correctly with third party manual lenses. So the exposure will never be correct.

I believe the Nikon 1 family was the same way, but I never owned one so cannot be sure.

If you want to keep others out of your market, Nikon seems to have a brilliant idea here.

There is no question in my mind that Fuji supports manual third party lenses better than anyone else.

There is at least one electronic adapter from Fuji X to Canon EF, so it can be and is being done. This knowledge is out there. Sigma could buy this company and make X-mount lenses quite soon:

https://www.fujirumors.com/worlds-f...dapter-autofocus-aperture-control-steelsring/

Question is, will they? My guess is no they won't.

--
Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
 
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I have read some were that Sigma has a 50mm f1.4 for aps - c on the way and that it will be in Fuji x, Sony e, Eos M and m4/3 so we should not give up hope yet I rely want the Sigma 60 for my Fuji a great lens for a nice price
 
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And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.

--
life is short...along the way..take some pictures.
surge
 
Yes Tom that was what I meant. Curious, since you mention having a couple manual focus lenses that you're pleased with, which ones are they? I haven't tried too much in the way of newer manual lenses since my vintage lens collection is fairly sizable but I'm very open to suggestions.
I have these three and they are all excellent.

Mitakon Zhongyi 35mm F0.95 Mark II, X-mount:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...edmaster_35mm_f_0_95_mark.html?sts=hist-pi-ps
I second the Mitakon (current favorite lens). Add several M-mounts like Zeiss 50 Sonnar C and Voigtlander 50 1.5 Nokton.
 
And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.
Point taken. In the original the subject was a bit underexposed so I turned the exposure in post (also lightening the background). Ideally, a higher power on my flash would have served better to separate the subject.
 
And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.
Point taken. In the original the subject was a bit underexposed so I turned the exposure in post (also lightening the background). Ideally, a higher power on my flash would have served better to separate the subject.
It's pretty easy to balance the lighting in post, rather than just up the exposure equally across the whole image.

I hope you don't mind I took a quick stab at it. I also tried to adjust the colour balance a bit, which is tricky with a jpeg. To help with the color balance and to empathize the subject I also desaturated the greens a bit.

If you wanted to share the raw (if you have one) with me I could do a better job.

Again I hope you don't mind my tinkering. If you do I'll edit this post so the picture is gone.

6afa7d4de82a4a56a59d2324661f115c.jpg



--
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mr.kelly.graham/
 
And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.
Point taken. In the original the subject was a bit underexposed so I turned the exposure in post (also lightening the background). Ideally, a higher power on my flash would have served better to separate the subject.
It's pretty easy to balance the lighting in post, rather than just up the exposure equally across the whole image.

I hope you don't mind I took a quick stab at it. I also tried to adjust the colour balance a bit, which is tricky with a jpeg. To help with the color balance and to empathize the subject I also desaturated the greens a bit.

If you wanted to share the raw (if you have one) with me I could do a better job.

Again I hope you don't mind my tinkering. If you do I'll edit this post so the picture is gone.

6afa7d4de82a4a56a59d2324661f115c.jpg
No, its fine. I can share the RAW when I get a chance. I use RawTherapee which doesn't allow local edits outside of vignette and gradient. One of these days I'll sit down and learn Gimp as well. (Personal choice, I have limited budget and rather spend it on hardware than software. No flames please)
 
I'm not interested in 3rd party lenses. I've owned/used plenty of the top Nikon, Canon, Pentax, and Mamiya lenses, and in my opinion none of them are/were superior to the Fujinon lenses that I've used and/or owned. I'm basing this on the 56mm f/1.2, 23mm f1.4, 90mm f/2 and the lowly 18-55mm zoom and my primary consideration is image quality, not fast focusing. Give me the Fujinon lenses all day long. And based on past experience, I wouldn't even consider any Sigma lens.
 
And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.
Point taken. In the original the subject was a bit underexposed so I turned the exposure in post (also lightening the background). Ideally, a higher power on my flash would have served better to separate the subject.
It's pretty easy to balance the lighting in post, rather than just up the exposure equally across the whole image.

I hope you don't mind I took a quick stab at it. I also tried to adjust the colour balance a bit, which is tricky with a jpeg. To help with the color balance and to empathize the subject I also desaturated the greens a bit.

If you wanted to share the raw (if you have one) with me I could do a better job.

Again I hope you don't mind my tinkering. If you do I'll edit this post so the picture is gone.

6afa7d4de82a4a56a59d2324661f115c.jpg
No, its fine. I can share the RAW when I get a chance. I use RawTherapee which doesn't allow local edits outside of vignette and gradient. One of these days I'll sit down and learn Gimp as well. (Personal choice, I have limited budget and rather spend it on hardware than software. No flames please)
No flames here. Dark table is a free open source editor that allows local edits. What OS do you use?

--
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mr.kelly.graham/
 
I'm not interested in 3rd party lenses. I've owned/used plenty of the top Nikon, Canon, Pentax, and Mamiya lenses, and in my opinion none of them are/were superior to the Fujinon lenses that I've used and/or owned. I'm basing this on the 56mm f/1.2, 23mm f1.4, 90mm f/2 and the lowly 18-55mm zoom and my primary consideration is image quality, not fast focusing. Give me the Fujinon lenses all day long. And based on past experience, I wouldn't even consider any Sigma lens.
I agree that the Fujinons are excellent. I have 4 MF lenses, because Fujifilm hasn’t filled their prime lens lineup yet.
  • Wide: Rokinon 8/2.8 fisheye and 12/2. Very good sharpness, moderate distortion on the 12, but they are prone to flare and the 6 blade aperture can give blobby highlights (compared to, say, the 16/1.4). I’d love to see a Fujinon prime wider than 12 and around f/2.8, but not any rumors to take hope from. The huge, expensive 8-16 is not a substitute for me.
  • Long: Rokinon 135/2 is superb, on a par with my best Fujinons (the 1.4s, 60/2.4, and 90/2). Manual focus and unstabilized, of course, but absolutely stellar images and less than ½ the price of the 90/2. It is so good that I doubt I’ll buy a comparable Fujifilm offering, even if they do finally get one out, and even though AF and (to a lesser degree) OIS would be helpful. The 50-140 is bigger, slower, not as good optically (really!) and about 3x as expensive, so not a good substitute.
  • Shift: I use a Leica R 21/4 on a shift adapter, it’d be great if we got a 14-18 f/4 shift (I care less about tilt) from Fujifilm, but I’m not holding my breath.
So, *some of us* have very good reason to stray from Fujifilm, even though their lenses are great. This is especially true for photographers who prefer primes.

--
Chris
Selected photos at https://500px.com/ceedave
A couple of Fuji cameras and assorted X-mount and adapted primes
 
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And if you are into manual focus, there is also a bunch of vintage glass that can be used with inexpensive adapters (~ $15 each).

I got a Helios 44-2 as a fun / portrait lens for only $65 including adapter and shipping. Its not razor sharp like new lenses but the bokeh is really fun and has a nice swirl.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VQGUNYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a5b2d0a154c1448cb4ead6ee8834e255.jpg
while scrolling down the thread this one caught my attention..for better or worst...the background is just so distracting. saw the background before seeing the subject.
Point taken. In the original the subject was a bit underexposed so I turned the exposure in post (also lightening the background). Ideally, a higher power on my flash would have served better to separate the subject.
actually that's the characteristic of helios lens. some people absolutely love it..

try spot metering on the face to get the light reading in shade, then EL. move/turn the subj to have some light hitting the back you get a golden halo of the hair or shoulder area...can add interest in your picture

position the head just enough to cover the sunlight.
position the head just enough to cover the sunlight.



can also try allowing the light to spill and flood the part of the image w flare...digital film is free anyway
can also try allowing the light to spill and flood the part of the image w flare...digital film is free anyway


life is short...along the way..take some pictures.
surge
 
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