The Never ending Quest for the best setup

posted an M16 image with light collection = 2068 minutes-cm^2 . https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4320918#forum-post-61668476

Do you have something comparable?
Depends on what you mean by "comparable":

http://www.stanmooreastro.com/M16.html

the top image is 50 minutes EMCCD and the lower image is 2 hours CCD. Each uses 14" aperture.

Regards,

Stan
You have a very interesting comparison there. Acquisition using an Electron Multiplying CCD is a very interesting experiment. Zero read noise and the advantage of very short exposures e.g. 8 frames/sec allowing you to overcome the blurring caused by seeing in the long exposure times required by the typical high read noise CCD.

What you appear to have demonstrated is that such a camera on an affordable scope (the C14) and any old cheap mount can give superior results to spending tens of thousands of dollars on a 14" Ritchey Chretien on an Astro-Physics mount and doing the long exposures required by a typical cooled CCD astro-camera.

The EMCCD is hideously expensive but I certainly think that high QE photon counting sensors are the future of astro-imaging. CMOS cameras are almost there - as you will know, there are many people using entry level low read noise CMOS cameras in a similar way to what you have demonstrated i.e. high frame rates on a tracking (but unguided) mount and producing remarkable results with high resolution.

Except in few specialist applications I think that traditional high read noise CCD astro-cameras will quickly become extinct.

I don't agree with your sentiment that one shouldn't "be suckered into getting a bastardized 'color astro-cam' ". Certainly, such a camera probably wouldn't suit your own style of astronomy but they are very versatile, easy-to-use performers and a good match for affordable scopes. Their main disadvantage is that unlike a DSLR they need a laptop and external power supply.

Mark

--
Takahashi Epsilon 180ED
H-alpha modified Sony A7S
http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/
 
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A lot of us have to fight lousy weather and then the Bayer matrix is a blessing...
Actually I have a similar situation (weather) but I regard it as a reason to avoid Bayer in favor of LRGB, or more often "L". If the weather is clear and seeing is good then I do not waste it on colorization, including sluggish Bayer. I seize the moment by capturing as many hi-quality photons as possible, i.e. unfiltered (or IRR filter). Then if the weather becomes uncooperative I have a high quality grayscale image, which in my book is superior to shallow, low-res color.

It seems to me that for many people the objective (real) quality of the image is secondary and very often neglected in the lust for color. Bayer is a favorite of such practitioners.

But note that the exact same amount of time spent on a Bayer run (even 1 session) could be divided into 3 or 4 filters. A mono-RGB (forget the L for now) compared to a Bayer of the exact same total exp time has superior S/N (both theoretically and actually).

Stan
 
Acquisition using an Electron Multiplying CCD is a very interesting experiment.
Very!

I also constructed a photon multiplier based camera ("ZeroCam") based on the same basic principles.
The EMCCD is hideously expensive
You can get used lab equipment EMCCD from liquidators at about 1/20th the cost of a new cam (that's what I did). But that's only the beginning. These cameras are made almost exclusively for microscopy. The acquisition and processing software are entirely inappropriate for astro (and very expensive). So I had to write my own camera control and processing software. But that was much of the fun!
... entry level low read noise CMOS cameras in a similar way...
Yep. That's the holy grail - an affordable and readily available high-speed astro cam. It does not yet exist but we do keep getting closer. With a big scope and a bright target, it is possible to take 2-5 sec subs using the latest CMOS such as the ZWO mono 1600. That is not fast enough to deal with seeing wander but it beats out most mounts (though elite mounts do a fine job and don't much benefit from that regime).

Stan
 
Beginners need to take "pretty pictures" before progressing to the narrow-band filter or RGBL capture methods on a monochrome dedicated astro camera. It is part of learning some astronomy. Those ultra-wide field shots help us pick out constellations, observe subtle differences in color temperature (my favorite feature, as a newbie - cool to see it in real life, as opposed to a textbook diagram), find larger Messier objects, etc.

Right now, I am considering getting a modern pair of binoculars for going through the "binocular-viewing highlights" book by Gary Seronik. "GoTo" is all very nice, but doing things the old-fashioned way may be a better learning strategy.
 
Beginners need to take "pretty pictures" before progressing to the narrow-band filter or RGBL capture methods on a monochrome dedicated astro camera. It is part of learning some astronomy. Those ultra-wide field shots help us pick out constellations, observe subtle differences in color temperature (my favorite feature, as a newbie - cool to see it in real life, as opposed to a textbook diagram), find larger Messier objects, etc.

Right now, I am considering getting a modern pair of binoculars for going through the "binocular-viewing highlights" book by Gary Seronik. "GoTo" is all very nice, but doing things the old-fashioned way may be a better learning strategy.
Nancy, try out the stabilized ones from Canon, e.g. the 12*36. For the other, we just have to cope with doing inferior it seems :-D
 
integrated flux nebula around M81 and M82. Taken with crappy old DSLRs.

Lets see yours.
Sorry, I don't do wide-field.

If you like, scan the pics on my web site (stanmooreastro.com) for a galaxy or PN that you have also captured and see how they compare.

(that flux nebula is very sensitive to sky conditions. Evidently your sky is pretty dark.)

Stan
 
Being able to design efficient cooling for a special purpose camera might be a reason to use an astro camera as opposed to a DSLR.

"Clean" capture of different narrow band pass filters' images to be combined into a false color image might be another use of a monochrome camera.

I am at the stage where I use what I have on hand - a DSLR.
 
... entry level low read noise CMOS cameras in a similar way...
Yep. That's the holy grail - an affordable and readily available high-speed astro cam. It does not yet exist but we do keep getting closer. With a big scope and a bright target, it is possible to take 2-5 sec subs using the latest CMOS such as the ZWO mono 1600. That is not fast enough to deal with seeing wander but it beats out most mounts (though elite mounts do a fine job and don't much benefit from that regime).

Stan
What constraint imposes a limit of 2-5sec?

These guys are doing 0.5sec and 1 sec with the ASI224 and ASI1600:
Mark
 
I second Roger's point that modern cameras can give great results with short exposure times.

I also support rareynolds when he says that low end trackers are adequate.

1llusive is correct to say that a Star Adventurer has about 30 arcseconds of periodic error. However, when guided, I find that this drops to just 2 arcseconds, which matches the performance of the Fornax Lighttrack ii.

I've been using a camera with a 1-inch sensor and a 300mm f/4 PF lens on a guided Star Adventurer, and get results with 30s subs that seem sharp to me, as in this image of M31 (26 x 30s subs; 1.6 arcseconds /pixel).





59f2f7778206412a8322c2d325b56b13.jpg




Andy
 
... entry level low read noise CMOS cameras in a similar way...
Yep. That's the holy grail - an affordable and readily available high-speed astro cam. It does not yet exist but we do keep getting closer. With a big scope and a bright target, it is possible to take 2-5 sec subs using the latest CMOS such as the ZWO mono 1600. That is not fast enough to deal with seeing wander but it beats out most mounts (though elite mounts do a fine job and don't much benefit from that regime).

Stan
What constraint imposes a limit of 2-5sec?

These guys are doing 0.5sec and 1 sec with the ASI224 and ASI1600:
Mark
really great stuff
 
Beginners need to take "pretty pictures"
Don't we all? <g>

A lot depends on what you regard as "pretty". Although I often rail against color for it's own sake (and so on) I pride myself on my own "pretty pics".

For beginners, a common path starts with DSLR nightscapes using short FL camera lens on tripod. For most that's also where it ends but a few get the bug and buy (or dig out of the closet) a small short refractor and EQ mount. And it may go on from there.

My comments were intended for someone who is "getting serious" and asking for equipment advice ("best equipment" was the original thread). If and when you reach that stage it may be wise look further into the future so as to not waste money and time on too many intermediate steps. But on the other hand, those steps can be fun and educational. The resale value of many scopes, mounts, etc. is pretty good, esp if you buy used.

The great thing about this hobby is you can do as you please! <g>

Stan
 
A lot of us have to fight lousy weather and then the Bayer matrix is a blessing...
Actually I have a similar situation (weather) but I regard it as a reason to avoid Bayer in favor of LRGB, or more often "L". If the weather is clear and seeing is good then I do not waste it on colorization, including sluggish Bayer. I seize the moment by capturing as many hi-quality photons as possible, i.e. unfiltered (or IRR filter). Then if the weather becomes uncooperative I have a high quality grayscale image, which in my book is superior to shallow, low-res color.
How superior depends upon what is to be acheived - within visual and in real life use the Bayer matrix does not lug much behind a LRGB setup (talking similar exposure).

The best setup is often a simple and easy to use setup.

No need to dumb down Bayer users - we know excactly what we are doing, and why...
It seems to me that for many people the objective (real) quality of the image is secondary and very often neglected in the lust for color. Bayer is a favorite of such practitioners.
Some of my friends use mono cameras, and they complain a lot about lousy weather and missing data (when such practioners happily show their images)... :-D
But note that the exact same amount of time spent on a Bayer run (even 1 session) could be divided into 3 or 4 filters. A mono-RGB (forget the L for now) compared to a Bayer of the exact same total exp time has superior S/N (both theoretically and actually).
Superior S/N - or somewhat better S/N?
Still have to agree that the Bayer matrix is more limited than mono cameras when it comes to bandwith and resolution (if undersampling or the atmosphere is not the limiting factor) and sensitivity (but not by that much taking the color filters needed into account).

Bayer is fast, easy and fun - and can deliver terrific results in good hands...

Happily we are different - get the tool for the job at hand. That is the perfect setup!
 
What constraint imposes a limit of 2-5sec?
primarily:

1) f-ratio and sky brightness. A dark sky and/or slow f-ratio is problematic.

Hi-res demands long FL and hence slow f-ratio. Reducers always degrade the PSF and are deleterious to real resolution. But the tiny pixels of CMOS are problematic for long FL because the greatly oversampled read noise is significant and low-flux unstable banding can be a very nasty issue (even with the ZWO cooled mono 1600).

Of course, you can use a shortened FL and high frame rate. But then there is not much need for a high frame rate because that configuration is not really hi-res. For example, the M57 you referenced is not a hi-res image, nor is it very deep (checkout my version on my web site). And 1/2 second is a bit too long for most seeing corrections, i.e. the resolution difference between 0.5 and 2 sec subs for that scope and cam are probably negligible (unless the mount is crap).

2) brightness of the object. M57 is very bright as are several PN that can withstand a high frame-rate on fast or moderate f-ratio. But with a large "slow" scope on a dim galaxy the results are not good.

Stan
 
the Bayer matrix does not lug much behind a LRGB setup (talking similar exposure).
I have to take issue with that claim, at least in regards to dim objects. The Lum is the workhorse of LRGB and a Lum exp captures approximately 4x photon flux (information) than a Bayer exp of the same time. That may not be a big deal for a relatively short exp of a bright object but it is fatal for a long exp of a dim object. Some galaxies require 2+ hours with a 14+" unfiltered aperture. It is unreasonable to try to achieve that with Bayer 8+ hour exp!

Noted DS galaxy masters such as Adam Block always use LRGB.

Stan
 
the Bayer matrix does not lug much behind a LRGB setup (talking similar exposure).
I have to take issue with that claim, at least in regards to dim objects. The Lum is the workhorse of LRGB and a Lum exp captures approximately 4x photon flux (information) than a Bayer exp of the same time.
I'd like to see the evidence for that extraordinary claim.
That may not be a big deal for a relatively short exp of a bright object but it is fatal for a long exp of a dim object. Some galaxies require 2+ hours with a 14+" unfiltered aperture. It is unreasonable to try to achieve that with Bayer 8+ hour exp!

Noted DS galaxy masters such as Adam Block always use LRGB.
Perhaps.

Other experts (e.g. Juan Conejero author of PixInsight) strongly advocate RGB over LRGB.

Mark

--
Takahashi Epsilon 180ED
H-alpha modified Sony A7S
http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/
 
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I'd like to see the evidence for that extraordinary claim.
Particulars vary but here is a simplified analysis:

Each Bayer filter excludes approximately 1/3 of "white" flux, e.g. a red pixel excludes green and blue light. This neglects spectral particulars and overlap but dye filter overlap is a tailed curve, e.g. in the spectral overlap area of red and green, both are attenuated such that the total of each is approx a full pass of one of the other. So a figure of 1/3 visual transmission per filter is about right. Note it is worse for a red object such as a nebula, where only 1 out of 4 pixels pass red photons and do so inefficiently due to slightly inefficient dye.

DSLR blocks NIR and a good portion of deep red. H-alpha is attenuated by nearly 75% in a typical DSLR. Most unfiltered detectors are pretty sensitive to NIR. So >20% of the photons that would have been detected are blocked from every pixel. Astro-Bayer cams extend the red pixel pass-band to get H-a but they still must include an NIR blocker to stop leakage of all pixels, which if allowed results in weak and inaccurate color hues.

Thus the avg transmission of all DSLR Bayer pixels is approximately 0.33 * 0.8 = 0.26

So about 1/4th of white light that would have been captured by an unfiltered detector is captured by a Bayer detector.

But the devil is in the details and every Bayer chip has slightly different spectral curves and the NIR blockers are also different. However, it is unambiguously true that a bare detector is *significantly* more sensitive than a Bayer version of the same detector.

Stan
 
there were a few typos, that should be obvious but since there is no way to edit a post, I'll correct the worst here:

I stated that 1/3 of visual photons are excluded by Bayer. Obviously that should be 2/3 exclusion (1/3 are passed).
 
Before you decide on the "best setup" it is necessary to clarify what you want from the equipment. If you want whirly/starry colors without much trouble and have little regards for the actual celestial objects then the "best setup" is VERY different from one that extracts the deepest and most faithful representation of actual objects. In other words are you most interested in colorful "artistic" diversions or are you interested in the actual astronomical content?

In the domain of "serious" astro-imaging, Bayer (including DSLR) is not regards as a real astro-cam because DSLR/Bayer cameras are markedly inferior to dedicated astro-cams. There are numerous technical reasons for this, starting with the highly destructive Bayer matrix combined with the spectral characteristics of astro-objects. So if you are interested in going deep then get away from DSLR. And don't be suckered into getting a bastardized "color astro-cam". Of course, "real astro" also requires a "real scope" and that can get complicated and expensive.

But in the domain of "pretty pictures" where content is secondary to prettiness then Bayer may be the way to go. If that's your path then the optimal scope is small, short and not all that expensive.

As you can probably tell, I'm not much of an afectionado of pretty pics for prettiness sake and am much more oriented towards revealing actual DS objects. I have considerable experience in that domain and will further advise if you like.

Stan

AstroStan wrote:
the Bayer matrix does not lug much behind a LRGB setup (talking similar exposure).
I have to take issue with that claim, at least in regards to dim objects. The Lum is the workhorse of LRGB and a Lum exp captures approximately 4x photon flux (information) than a Bayer exp of the same time. That may not be a big deal for a relatively short exp of a bright object but it is fatal for a long exp of a dim object. Some galaxies require 2+ hours with a 14+" unfiltered aperture. It is unreasonable to try to achieve that with Bayer 8+ hour exp!

Noted DS galaxy masters such as Adam Block always use LRGB.

Stan

AstroStan wrote:
What constraint imposes a limit of 2-5sec?
primarily:

1) f-ratio and sky brightness. A dark sky and/or slow f-ratio is problematic.

Hi-res demands long FL and hence slow f-ratio. Reducers always degrade the PSF and are deleterious to real resolution. But the tiny pixels of CMOS are problematic for long FL because the greatly oversampled read noise is significant and low-flux unstable banding can be a very nasty issue (even with the ZWO cooled mono 1600).

Of course, you can use a shortened FL and high frame rate. But then there is not much need for a high frame rate because that configuration is not really hi-res. For example, the M57 you referenced is not a hi-res image, nor is it very deep (checkout my version on my web site). And 1/2 second is a bit too long for most seeing corrections, i.e. the resolution difference between 0.5 and 2 sec subs for that scope and cam are probably negligible (unless the mount is crap).

2) brightness of the object. M57 is very bright as are several PN that can withstand a high frame-rate on fast or moderate f-ratio. But with a large "slow" scope on a dim galaxy the results are not good.

Stan
The snobbishness and arrogance you have displayed in this thread is really a disservice to the amateur astrophotography community. You come in here with the attitude that unless people do it your way, they are just making, as you say "pretty pictures where content is secondary to prettiness." I would argue that your H-alpha images are similarly just pretty pictures unless you are writing scientific papers coming up with new insights about astrophysics. Are you? If not then you are just making pretty pictures, just like everyone else here. And you presume that unless one has a big telescope and cooled mono CCD, that one can't make great pictures. You are welcome to your opinion, but many others here probably have a different idea of what they want and what is a great picture. Thank goodness those heading the NASA APOD site have a more open mind as to what constitutes great astronomy pictures!

And even if you are writing scientific papers about your results, that does not mean others want to do the same.

You seem to think that the only real serious astrophotography is your method of high resolution with big telescopes, adaptive optics and tiny fields of view. Don't get me wrong, your images are gorgeous. More power to you. But I have no desire to produce such images, and I'll bet many others here also do not. Tiny faint things are not the only interesting things to image. There are many large scale objects and structures that can only be imaged with wide field optics. Jerry and my examples of the IFN go very faint, for example. My IFN gets to about magnitude 27/sq arc-second, and Jerry's to mag 28 or 29. That is quite impressive for ordinary CMOS DSLRs.

You seem to think that narrow band is the only thing that shows "real" content. Simple visible RGB shows many processes not recorded by a single or even 3-wavelength narrow band imaging. For example, H-alpha + H-beta + H-gamma shows red to magenta color with the gradation due to how much interstellar dust is present. Interstellar dust is brownish if no emission is present, except in unusual grain sizes and scattering conditions where bluing occurs (MIE or Rayleigh scattering, as in the Pleiades). Colors of stars indicate their spectral class. So a simple visible RGB image I'll argue shows far more composition and astrophysical processes and even dust grain sizes than any narrow band image or 3-band combination of images. So dissing simple RGB color only exposes your ignorance and arrogance.

FYI, I am a professional astronomer. The vast majority of my work is narrow band imaging, from vacuum UV to far infrared, now mostly from spacecraft, previously from terrestrial observatories (e.g. on Mauna Kea--I've observed many many dozens of nights on the IRTF, UKIRT, and UH 88-inch).

But I am intrigued at the revolution in imaging over the last 10 years, that with such simple equipment, so much can be done so easily today with a stock digital camera and ordinary camera lenses. It is this simplicity that allows so many people to get into astrophotography, and that is what I advocate. If someone wants to move beyond this simplicity, more power to them. But there are few people with such dedication or income to make that leap to your equipment.

And there is so much one can image with such simple equipment--literally thousands of objects, that one can spend a lifetime with a simple DSLR and camera lenses to image all the possibilities. In fact, for many, portability is key, and a 14-inch is too big to transport. For example, I like to travel to remote places, so need to travel light. I can carry my equipment in a backpack to get to very dark places. Or on an airplane. For example, this year I took my setup to the Serengeti. That would not have been possible without a lot more time and expense if I was lugging around a 14-inch telescope, big equatorial mount, cooled CCDs and laptops to run it all. That is not my idea of fun, and probably not for many others either. Some people also have medical issues so could not handle big equipment. Big I'll argue they can still make great images, even your so-called serious ones, with simple equipment, and even publish results in the Astrophysical Journal if they desired,

And to be clear, with the coming sub 1 electron read noise digital cameras, people will be able to do high time resolution astrophotography with simple equipment. Your diatribe against CMOS has many ignored issues and I'll not spend the time trying to correct them all. The simple fact is that one can make great images with a vast variety of equipment, and as each year passes, more can be done with simple consumer digital cameras and lenses.

I would hope you stop dissing simple RGB color astrophotography. You will drive most people away.

Roger

 
I'd like to see the evidence for that extraordinary claim.
Particulars vary but here is a simplified analysis:

Each Bayer filter excludes approximately 1/3 of "white" flux, e.g. a red pixel excludes green and blue light. This neglects spectral particulars and overlap but dye filter overlap is a tailed curve, e.g. in the spectral overlap area of red and green, both are attenuated such that the total of each is approx a full pass of one of the other. So a figure of 1/3 visual transmission per filter is about right. Note it is worse for a red object such as a nebula, where only 1 out of 4 pixels pass red photons and do so inefficiently due to slightly inefficient dye.
This is an example where you have an incomplete view of the problem.
A "red" object is not simply a "red" emission, H-alpha. A hydrogen emission nebula emits in the visible, H-beta, H-gamma, and H-alpha, so in a visible RGB color camera, all colored pixels are being exposed. The natural color of hydrogen emission is magenta, NOT red. So your continuing diatribe against Bayer CMOS is lacking key factors.

See:

The Color of Nebulae and Interstellar Dust in the Night Sky

Roger
 

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