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Video from X-T1 looks better than from X-H1

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Alexei

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Hi guys, my video files from X-T1 looks better than from X-H1. Same settings. The picture on video from X-T1looks sharper more natural. On X-H1 more rolling shutters less natural, less sharpness.

Does anyone have the same?

Thanks.

Alex.
 
Alexei said:
Hi guys, my video files from X-T1 looks better than from X-H1. Same settings. The picture on video from X-T1looks sharper more natural. On X-H1 more rolling shutters less natural, less sharpness.

Does anyone have the same?

Thanks.

Alex.
Click to expand...
No idea because I own only the XT1. Only can say that my former a6300 had a way better video quality.
Interesting thing though, ill follow.
 
Alexei said:
Hi guys, my video files from X-T1 looks better than from X-H1. Same settings. The picture on video from X-T1looks sharper more natural. On X-H1 more rolling shutters less natural, less sharpness.

Does anyone have the same?

Thanks.

Alex.
Click to expand...
And you're using the same lens on both?
 
I don't do video and I don't know a lot about it, but both those clips looked bad to me because of the jerky pan down. To me it looks like the biggest issue is your tripod head.
 
Did you shoot this both on a tripod? If so you need to turn OIS to off on both cameras and lenses.
 
Alexei said:
There is no tripod, handheld on both. 24p. Dim lighting. ISO about 4500 on both
Click to expand...
You are comparing in a bad situation. Have you tried the test in brighter conditions either lit or outside?

They are two different cameras, even though your settings are the same, Fuji may have 'tweaked' the internal processing.

The difference to me looks as though the contrast could be upped a bit on the H1.

Even in the professional world, different models from the same manufacturer will give different results.

--
Pete Silver
 
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Just had a chance to look at both your clips. I only own an xh1 so I can't speak to the xt1 but there are a few things to consider. Color profile will drastically alter results including color contrast and perceived sharpness. I don't think you made mention of it but it's worth noting to be sure you are using the 180 degree shutter rule. Lastly, as someone with extensive experience with video, I'd advise that you refine some of your skills with hand holding your camera movements. 24p is not very forgiving with sloppy pans and tilts. I don't know what your skill level is with video so please don't take that as me crapping on you as that's not my intent. If your technique isn't great and don't want to spend the time practicing to improve it I'd suggest you shoot 30 fps as it's much more user friendly. Most of what people think is rolling shutter is actually just movement that's too fast for the frame rate. I viewed your clips on my phone so I can't say for sure if that's what you're seeing. Perhaps try your tests in better lighting and at or under iso 800. I push my XH1 to iso 3200 from time to time but if that's not enough I usually reach for a light rather than raise the iso. Hope any of that might be helpful.
 
pw-pix2 said:
I don't do video and I don't know a lot about it, but both those clips looked bad to me because of the jerky pan down. To me it looks like the biggest issue is your tripod head.
Click to expand...
 
X-H1's video is much more detailed than the X-T1's. A bunch of moiré and jagged lines on the X-T1, terrible fine detail rendering.
 
Alexei said:
I posted. 2 examples taken from the same position. Lenses 18-55mm at 35mm on XT1 and 16-55mm at 35mm on XH1. Everything else on auto on both cameras.

XH1

Fuji X-H1

XT1

Fuji XT1
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How much better is the X-T1 when you use a non-stabilized lens?

You really should test with the same lens.

--
www.darngoodphotos.com
 
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Alexei said:
I posted. 2 examples taken from the same position. Lenses 18-55mm at 35mm on XT1 and 16-55mm at 35mm on XH1. Everything else on auto on both cameras.

XH1

Fuji X-H1

XT1

Fuji XT1
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Hi Alexei,

I watched the videos and two things are obvious. First as others mentionned, the optical stabilization of the 18-55 makes a world of difference. A huge part of the jerkiness in the H1 video is absent from the T1, thanks to that lense.

The second big thing is that the X-T1 treatment of the image has less dynamic range which makes for a more natural looking image in this low dynamic range setting (the books). The blacks are black and the whites are white.

On the H1 footage however, the "auto" settings allow for more dynamic range. If there was a bigger difference between the dark parts of the image and the bright parts, they could be recorded with no crushed blacks and less blown highlights. But in this case, the subject having low dynamic range, you get a flat looking image. The black are dark grey and the highlights are not so bright. A little bit of color grading would allow you to get the exact image that you would like.

Of course, these settings can be changed on the X-H1. You can decide to make the shadows darker before you shoot and make the highlights brighter too. It's up to you. On the X-T1, I'm not sure, but I think you can't do that, unless you choose a different film simulation. To get low contrast for example, you would use Proneg high or Proneg standard.

Have fun!
 
TangoMan said:
Alexei said:
I posted. 2 examples taken from the same position. Lenses 18-55mm at 35mm on XT1 and 16-55mm at 35mm on XH1. Everything else on auto on both cameras.

XH1

Fuji X-H1

XT1

Fuji XT1
Click to expand...
Hi Alexei,

I watched the videos and two things are obvious. First as others mentionned, the optical stabilization of the 18-55 makes a world of difference. A huge part of the jerkiness in the H1 video is absent from the T1, thanks to that lense.

The second big thing is that the X-T1 treatment of the image has less dynamic range which makes for a more natural looking image in this low dynamic range setting (the books). The blacks are black and the whites are white.

On the H1 footage however, the "auto" settings allow for more dynamic range. If there was a bigger difference between the dark parts of the image and the bright parts, they could be recorded with no crushed blacks and less blown highlights. But in this case, the subject having low dynamic range, you get a flat looking image. The black are dark grey and the highlights are not so bright. A little bit of color grading would allow you to get the exact image that you would like.

Of course, these settings can be changed on the X-H1. You can decide to make the shadows darker before you shoot and make the highlights brighter too. It's up to you. On the X-T1, I'm not sure, but I think you can't do that, unless you choose a different film simulation. To get low contrast for example, you would use Proneg high or Proneg standard.

Have fun!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good explanation! Liked.
 
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