Its all well having a camera that shoots gazillion burst images, but

Have we looked at the wrong angle of this high speed shooting feature?

The 4K/6K photo modes, come in 3 modes for 2 major applications. The pre burst starts capturing from the time we switched it on but only saves images for the 1 sec before and 1 sec at the time we hit the shutter. It is mainly used to capture the split second of incident happening. The other 2 modes, like traditional video shooting, can give us a big file depending on how long we let it goes.

Yes, there will be a lot of duplication and frames showing a very tiny variance under that high fps shooting. But that is exactly the aim of the feature to capture the how the action happening in detail. It is saved in a MP4 format, so can be playback using normal video player to go through the file if we need a rough idea on where to look at the critical shots. Or by the in-camera extraction tool, we can scroll through the entire file frame by frame, fast or slow as we wish. When we hit the sweetest frames we can export them as an end product. It could be done much more easy than we can imagine in real life. After exported the required image, we might keep the original MP4 file (more like raw of still), or delete it after work done. No reason to extract all of the frames from the MP4 (so we might have shoot hundreds of frames but not necessary to have all of them be extracted). YMMV.
Yes, I realize that for people who want to do this then it can be useful for them.

I didn't write anything about whether it could be used to get the photo you want or not. I wrote only about the hellish, to me, process of sifting through so many images to find just the one. For people who enjoy this though then I am glad they can do it.
 
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That's why I like 4K photo mode. Instead of 50 very similar files, you have one video that you extract the 1-2 solid frames from.
As I said, that is a hellish life, IMO:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61534888

Going through thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, millions of frames to find the 1-2 solid frames. Not for me. Of course, some people get masochistic pleasure from this sort of thing, I guess. :-)
You can extract the few stills in camera quite easily. And you shouldn't be shooting 5 minute videos. More like 5-10 seconds as if it was a regular burst shot.
"5-10 seconds" bursts at 60fps is 300-600 frames to go through and each frame is separated by 1/60 second so many of them are identical or very close to identical. To me, but not to you, going through all of those to find the "1-2 solid frames" would be torture. And, I suspect, in a single day of shooting this way one wouldn't have just one "5-10 seconds" burst. One would have several, many, a whole lot of "5-10 seconds" bursts so then one would have thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, millions of frames to go through. :-) Shooting at 30fps would hardly be better and some even say they want to shoot at 120fps to get the "1-2 solid frames". I am elated that you have the gear to do this. As I said though, it sounds like Hell on Earth to me. :-)

My earlier post about just that:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61534888

Let's see, how many seconds are there in a basketball or soccer game? 60fps times that number of seconds. How many individual frames would that be? Even if you just take spurts of video during the game of a few seconds each you would likely have many of those video bursts at 60fps each. Even if each burst was only 5 seconds then that would be 300 frames per burst. And with the continuous action in those and many other sports you might not want to take the chance of just taking video bursts.

I return from a trip such as my recent trip to Turkey for a month with usually around 3000 photos. I find it almost excruciating to go through them all in Lightroom over several weeks, selecting the ones I want to work on, and then working on them for my website. And they are not even almost identical photos separated by 1/60 second. 3000 in a month of travel. I personally would rather be dead than have to go through 35,000 or 60,000 or 1,000,000 or whatever number of frames in 60fps video (or as he says, even 120fps video!). And not even having the luxury of spreading it over several weeks.

Imagine coming back from a trip with hours of 30fps, 60fps, or 120fps video and then wanting to select the best frames for still photos? As I said, I am happy for you that you want to do that. I don't, but I sure don't mind that others do.
This is silly.

1) Sorting through images shouldn't be that strenuous. I regularly shoot > 1000 in a day, and have them sorted within an hour or two. Just find some decent software and rate them. I sort images at about 1-2 second per image. Your 3000 images would take around 1.5 hours to sort out. Post processing obviously takes longer, but you're not going to be post processing 3000 images.
You sift through > 1000 that are identical or almost identical to find the 1 or 2 best ones? Or do you mean you sift through > 1000 that are not almost identical? Quite different situations.
2) You should adapt your settings to what it is you're shooting. Shooting an entire basketball match at 60 FPS is hardly realistic. I only use ~10fps for shooting roller derby. You use 60 fps for shooting things that require it. eg: a jumping spider jumping.

I really don't get this? Are people unaware that cameras can have their burst rates changed, and you should use the settings that you want? If you don't need or want 60fps, then don't use it, or don't buy a camera with it. However, others actually do want and use those sorts of capabilities.
This subthread is about shooting 4K video using the fps choices it gives you.
 
That's why I like 4K photo mode. Instead of 50 very similar files, you have one video that you extract the 1-2 solid frames from.
As I said, that is a hellish life, IMO:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61534888

Going through thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, millions of frames to find the 1-2 solid frames. Not for me. Of course, some people get masochistic pleasure from this sort of thing, I guess. :-)
You can extract the few stills in camera quite easily. And you shouldn't be shooting 5 minute videos. More like 5-10 seconds as if it was a regular burst shot.
"5-10 seconds" bursts at 60fps is 300-600 frames to go through and each frame is separated by 1/60 second so many of them are identical or very close to identical. To me, but not to you, going through all of those to find the "1-2 solid frames" would be torture. And, I suspect, in a single day of shooting this way one wouldn't have just one "5-10 seconds" burst. One would have several, many, a whole lot of "5-10 seconds" bursts so then one would have thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, millions of frames to go through. :-) Shooting at 30fps would hardly be better and some even say they want to shoot at 120fps to get the "1-2 solid frames". I am elated that you have the gear to do this. As I said though, it sounds like Hell on Earth to me. :-)

My earlier post about just that:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61534888

Let's see, how many seconds are there in a basketball or soccer game? 60fps times that number of seconds. How many individual frames would that be? Even if you just take spurts of video during the game of a few seconds each you would likely have many of those video bursts at 60fps each. Even if each burst was only 5 seconds then that would be 300 frames per burst. And with the continuous action in those and many other sports you might not want to take the chance of just taking video bursts.

I return from a trip such as my recent trip to Turkey for a month with usually around 3000 photos. I find it almost excruciating to go through them all in Lightroom over several weeks, selecting the ones I want to work on, and then working on them for my website. And they are not even almost identical photos separated by 1/60 second. 3000 in a month of travel. I personally would rather be dead than have to go through 35,000 or 60,000 or 1,000,000 or whatever number of frames in 60fps video (or as he says, even 120fps video!). And not even having the luxury of spreading it over several weeks.

Imagine coming back from a trip with hours of 30fps, 60fps, or 120fps video and then wanting to select the best frames for still photos? As I said, I am happy for you that you want to do that. I don't, but I sure don't mind that others do.
This is silly.

1) Sorting through images shouldn't be that strenuous. I regularly shoot > 1000 in a day, and have them sorted within an hour or two. Just find some decent software and rate them. I sort images at about 1-2 second per image. Your 3000 images would take around 1.5 hours to sort out. Post processing obviously takes longer, but you're not going to be post processing 3000 images.
You sift through > 1000 that are identical or almost identical to find the 1 or 2 best ones? Or do you mean you sift through > 1000 that are not almost identical? Quite different situations.
Both.
2) You should adapt your settings to what it is you're shooting. Shooting an entire basketball match at 60 FPS is hardly realistic. I only use ~10fps for shooting roller derby. You use 60 fps for shooting things that require it. eg: a jumping spider jumping.

I really don't get this? Are people unaware that cameras can have their burst rates changed, and you should use the settings that you want? If you don't need or want 60fps, then don't use it, or don't buy a camera with it. However, others actually do want and use those sorts of capabilities.
This subthread is about shooting 4K video using the fps choices it gives you.
 
The older i get the more difficult i find it getting the split second action capture i want with some subject, too long in the tooth to care what others say about the way i do it.

Pro-Capture low with 6 pre shots and 3 post shots, can sort very quickly in FastStone.



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Using manual focus teles, 3 - 5 FPS is plenty. Sometimes I will go 10 FPS if I expect something to happen, but not often at all.

Others want more and hey, why not if they can and want to go through the results. I think it's just a personal thing and power to them if that's what they want.

All the best.

Danny.
 
Using manual focus teles, 3 - 5 FPS is plenty. Sometimes I will go 10 FPS if I expect something to happen, but not often at all.

Others want more and hey, why not if they can and want to go through the results. I think it's just a personal thing and power to them if that's what they want.

All the best.

Danny.
 
Agreed. Finding the very best images out of 10 x 10-burst shots is hard enough. Finding the very best images out of 10x 100-burst shots is a true labour of love.

Skills of A: “capturing the moment” replaced by B: “finding the moment in there somewhere”.

But devotees of “B” can always claim “A” credentials.
That is known as the Spray and Pray style of photography. :-)
Indeed so, and that is how I refer to some of mine.

I don't use bursts but I think spray and pray has its place, especially when the subject moves or the illumination of the scene changes faster than a human+camera (or at least this human with any of my cameras) can react.

For example, some wasps fly very fast. Basically, for me at least, if I can see it in the viewfinder/on the screen then I've almost certainly left it too late; the captured frame will probably be empty. This sort of thing, for which I used a version of spray and pray - guess when a subject will be in the frame, using peripheral vision and sound for incoming wasps and visual sighting for wasps coming out of the tunnel. I captured 1700 shots to obtain 16 keepers in the session I captured these, and when the alternative was to get no shots at all spray and pray seems entirely appropriate to me.

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Similarly with flies, although in this case I had better peripheral vision clues and the success rate was higher than with the wasps.

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In both those cases you at least have some visual/audio information to mitigate the randomness of the shot opportunities somewhat. The timing is completely random when sunlight is coming through foliage that is continually fluttering in a breeze, especially if in addition the subject is moving around in the breeze (the timing of which is different on the ground from the timing of movement in the canopy above). By capturing a number of shots you have the chance of some interesting illumination. This sort of thing.

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Personally I wouldn't want to over-generalise any disparagement of spray and pray.



--
Nick
GardenersAssistant Photography Videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmBgEwRDfiQMYTPORSzDxvw
 
Personally I wouldn't want to over-generalise any disparagement of spray and pray.
I think spray and pray suggests press the shutter and hope for the burst. Whereas considered burst shooting probably means you know what you are trying to achieve but you are maximising the chance of getting it.
 
Personally I wouldn't want to over-generalise any disparagement of spray and pray.
I think spray and pray suggests press the shutter and hope for the burst. Whereas considered burst shooting probably means you know what you are trying to achieve but you are maximising the chance of getting it.
I like the sound of "considered burst shooting", and I do know what I'm trying achieve and trying to maximise my chance of getting it. That said, I don't use bursts and there is a strong random component to what I'm doing so "spray and pray" does I think capture some of the essence of the process (especially the "pray" part of it).

Not sure what else to call what I do.
 
Personally I wouldn't want to over-generalise any disparagement of spray and pray.
I think spray and pray suggests press the shutter and hope for the burst. Whereas considered burst shooting probably means you know what you are trying to achieve but you are maximising the chance of getting it.
I like the sound of "considered burst shooting", and I do know what I'm trying achieve and trying to maximise my chance of getting it. That said, I don't use bursts and there is a strong random component to what I'm doing so "spray and pray" does I think capture some of the essence of the process (especially the "pray" part of it).

Not sure what else to call what I do.
It's called "the decisive momentS" with the emphasis on the final S which is short for spray. :-)

Anyway, if used sensibly it can overcome reaction times and camera delays to get that critical instant (or focus spot) correctly caught.

With that ability on my Casio pocket cameras I found its full resolution at 30 fps to be way too much, so set it back to 5 fps and make sure that the first 3 shots before the shutter full press are saved and that seems to work for me for the rare times that I use it.

Insects doing tricks or fungi spurting spore may need faster bursts.

Never seem to use burst (or bracket) on my M4/3 gear as I am saddled with all focal plane shutters and no electronic shutter ability there so wear and tear is an issue to consider.

Regards.... Guy
 
Starting to clean up and get rid of the excess pictures which I took when I had the E-M1 Mark ii, but what a pain when you have to delete all the duplicates images. It is not only time consuming, but it gets a little tedious too. Sometimes I wonder if it is worth having a camera that shoots more than 8-10 FPS. Surely one should be able to get one decent picture out of 5FPS or at the most 8FPS. What do you think?
I rarely use burst mode. Usually I forget it's even there, even when i could use it for something.

Sometimes it gets activated by mistake and I wonder what the F is going on. Instant disable.

I've used it occasionally for birds or animals. Otherwise, why do it?
 
If you want to capture a swallow flying directly at you at 34-60 feet per second as it makes the turn to fly over you, or the Cedar Waxwing as it makes the turn to capture the insect or two fighting flycatchers at the correct moment, then you will "Spray and Pray" or you will never get the image.

















--
drj3
 
So much fun!

A quite boring, prosaic and welcome subject for burst mode is group photos--the bigger the group the higher the likelihood somebody blinked (you know who you are...wait, you probably don't). Even portrait and fashion sessions can present minute expression and pose variations such that having several choices helps one find the top contender. Anybody who's dealt with an art director understands.

Cheers,

Rick
 
Starting to clean up and get rid of the excess pictures which I took when I had the E-M1 Mark ii, but what a pain when you have to delete all the duplicates images. It is not only time consuming, but it gets a little tedious too. Sometimes I wonder if it is worth having a camera that shoots more than 8-10 FPS. Surely one should be able to get one decent picture out of 5FPS or at the most 8FPS. What do you think?
Deleting duplicate images is easy. Flag the ones you want. Select the ones that aren't flagged. Delete them.

The problem seems to be that you don't know why you are shooting burst mode. So don't shoot burst mode.

I rarely do, but if I'm shooting for a particular action shot, then I do. But then I know what I'm looking for; might have to select a few that are similar during the initial cut. But clearing out the rest is simple. Because if it isn't what I'm looking for, it's gone. I don't agonize over whether the shot might be useful, or try to compare a dozen shots and pick out the best. If they are similar, I pick one and move on. Not sharp? Pick one that is sharp.

I see some photographers shooting models in high rate burst mode. I would say, let's make a movie, but they're just standing there. I would not want the agony of sorting through all those pics. Life is too short.

One other burst mode technique is to focus sweep. Useful if something is moving too erratically and it's hard enough to keep it in the field, let along keep any focus points on it. Just start shooting and adjusting focus. Again, it's easy to throw out the clear losers, and then take the time to sort the ones that are close to focus.
 
So much fun!

A quite boring, prosaic and welcome subject for burst mode is group photos--the bigger the group the higher the likelihood somebody blinked (you know who you are...wait, you probably don't). Even portrait and fashion sessions can present minute expression and pose variations such that having several choices helps one find the top contender. Anybody who's dealt with an art director understands.
A couple of our Casio pocket cameras have a Best Selection scene mode. In that the camera takes a short burst at 30 fps at full resolution, then analyses the images to get the best one out of the bunch where there's no blinks and smiles are present. Keeps the best one and deletes the rest of the bunch. Tested and it works nicely! I think it is limited to testing up to 10 faces in the frame, but not sure on that right now.

Good for those unruly grandchildren group shots.

Here's what the scene mode pdf chart tells me (for my wife's Casio ZR850)

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(Also just now found that my ZR5100 also has that mode. The ZR5100 probably the last model produced, nice with its 19-95mm equivalent lens on 1/1.7" sensor).

Really sad that Casio dropped cameras, they made some truly interesting ones.

Regards..... Guy
 
Agreed. Finding the very best images out of 10 x 10-burst shots is hard enough. Finding the very best images out of 10x 100-burst shots is a true labour of love.
It ain't so difficult really anymore with E-M1 II because you can finally browse images in playback as quickly as with Canon.

The Canon huge benefit in action photography as the huge dial at the back of the camera, totally bliss to use for the image browsing (not else really) as you could just quickly browse the sequence and lock the good ones with a dedicated button.

Dedicated Lock button (and MIC record!)

Dedicated Lock button (and MIC record!)

With Olympus that ain't exactly as straight forward as E-M1 II doesn't have the lock function like the E-P1 had:



AEL/AFL as a Lock button

AEL/AFL as a Lock button

.



If m4/3 cameras would have offered the exact same blazing fast image browsing as Canon did, it would have been bliss to use those, But the laggy and slow speed was just annoying thing what requires to go to 3x3 or 5x5 grid to see them quickly, but now your playback is tiny and you need to zoom in/out to see the one.

That smooth and quick browsing made so easy to lock the images on Canon.

With Olympus you did by marking the images first (pressing REC button) and then selecting "Lock" (touch screen or OSD) to lock them.

Then once you have locked them, you just delete all non-locked images with "Delete All" function.

And when you do that when you have the moment, you make easy to manage your card content even for long periods. As you will know when you get the frame, and you will remember easily what burst it was so you go quickly there.
 
IMHO burst is only useful to BIF/sport type of shooting which need to catch fast moving object that do not allow us the time to focus properly. So more like a trial and error shooting.
Sequential shooting is useful in many ways, it is speed how quickly camera is ready to take a another photo.
I only use burst shooting, indeed bracketing, for HDR only and after a HDR be produced, all of the original shots would be deleted. I don't have your problem. YMMV. :-)
Have you tried to do other stacking methods? Focus, denoise, ND filter, time lapse, and the usual averaging benefits?

It is useful by many means...
 

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