Do you prefer using low, mid, or high apertures for focus stacking?

Do you prefer using low, mid, or high apertures for focus stacking?


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MacM545

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Today I'm trying to figure out what is preferred, a quick aperture (such as f/1.4), a mid aperture (such as f/8) or a slow aperture (such as f/22) for focus stacking. Theoretically, using quick aperture will reduce time but also increase the number of photos necessary and might take up more space. Generally mid apertures provide good sharpness, and I suppose quick apertures could be helpful in some kind of situation even when lighting is adequate, while slow aperture stacks don't require the stacking process to work as slow. My best guess is that a mid or slow aperture is best, and I could also be wrong. Perhaps instead there's a better answer that I could add?
 
I have not done much stacking but I guess I always have set my f/stop as high as possible up to f18 (I do mostly live subjects outdoors) and no more than ISO200 but try to stay at 100

I can't think of a reason there would be for a wide aperture other than inadequate light and ideally that would be fixed by adding more light.

I guess if one where shooting a static subject in the studio with a very precise focus rack system shooting at the ideal aperture for any given lens may be desirable.
 
Today I'm trying to figure out what is preferred, a quick aperture (such as f/1.4), a mid aperture (such as f/8) or a slow aperture (such as f/22) for focus stacking. Theoretically, using quick aperture will reduce time but also increase the number of photos necessary and might take up more space. Generally mid apertures provide good sharpness, and I suppose quick apertures could be helpful in some kind of situation even when lighting is adequate, while slow aperture stacks don't require the stacking process to work as slow. My best guess is that a mid or slow aperture is best, and I could also be wrong. Perhaps instead there's a better answer that I could add?
There is no advantage I can think of using a small aperture when stacking, you will be losing sharpness due to diffraction. Stay with the sweet spot for your lens, probably around f5.6.
 
Your effective aperture (EA) is the magnification +1 times the lens aperture, so as said above diffraction can begin to degrade the IQ. Like most things it becomes tradeoff between DoF and Diffraction. I do lots of extreme stacking (sometimes ~600), mostly with microscope objectives for high magnifications, and the EA tends to hang around 18~20. These lenses don't have selectable apertures, so you get the EA the lenses was designed around.

Best,
 
While I don't care as much about diffraction as others do, I think the best answer has already been given - use whatever the sweet spot for your lens is.
 
Your effective aperture (EA) is the magnification +1 times the lens aperture, so as said above diffraction can begin to degrade the IQ. Like most things it becomes tradeoff between DoF and Diffraction. I do lots of extreme stacking (sometimes ~600), mostly with microscope objectives for high magnifications, and the EA tends to hang around 18~20. These lenses don't have selectable apertures, so you get the EA the lenses was designed around.

Best,
 
Best answer was given so I won't repeat, but only add my very first stacked photo, taken last night.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: 20+ year old Sigma 90mm f/2.8 Macro on bellows

Settings: f/8, in a home made light box with one SB-800 speedlight, M mode, 1/64 power, wirelessly triggered by the built-in commander of D750.

20 shots were taken. Focus was manually adjusted by moving the camera plane forward, starting from the nose in focus. I ended up using only every other shot from the images, after inspecting the results, feeling that using 20 images was redundant.





3b3c11d718ce46bdb6182943d012f7e1.jpg





Below image was cropped to near 100% to show the detailed eyes. Only one speedlight was used on the left. A second speedlight is on its way from Amazon.



c46010607746497da5ea31f761143891.jpg
 
you can get excellent results from one strobe you just need to use mirrors and double diffuse the subject from the light source to give a nice consistent result.

Don

























--
Olympus EM5, EM5mk2 my toys.
past toys. k100d, k10d,k7,fz5,fz150,500uz,canon G9, Olympus xz1
 
I prefer using F/8 for FSing because there won't be any diffraction. But that's only for still subjects; for more jumpy subjects I use F/11 so that if they jump/fly away I have photos with a larger DOF.

With sharper lenses like the Canon 100mm F2.8L, you can go all the way up to F/18 without obvious diffraction. So, for FSing, I'm trying to get the best DOF without introducing diffraction - for me that means F/8 to F/11.
 
I prefer using F/8 for FSing because there won't be any diffraction. But that's only for still subjects; for more jumpy subjects I use F/11 so that if they jump/fly away I have photos with a larger DOF.

With sharper lenses like the Canon 100mm F2.8L, you can go all the way up to F/18 without obvious diffraction. So, for FSing, I'm trying to get the best DOF without introducing diffraction - for me that means F/8 to F/11.

--
-CalB
Your analysis is incorrect. Diffraction takes place at all apertures and limits resolution. The diffraction limits are shown below for green light.



4de06e4a50c340af861f8cd36d770026.jpg.png

These figures are for optical resolution. System resolution includes sensor resolution and the system resolution in terms of MTF is the product of these resolutions. The system resolutions for the 100 f/2.8 L at various apertures on a 24 MP full frame camera have been determined by Optical Limits.com and are shown below.



18d3223a1eaf4a4ca017243ed3c879fe.jpg.png

Maximum resolution in center of the frame is at f/4. Prior to this aperture, resolution is limited by lens aberrations. Beyond f/4 resolution is limited by diffraction and resolution is considerably lower at f/16. Sharpening, preferably by a deconvolution method, can restore some resolution but the image will not have the brilliance obtained with the optimum aperture.

--

Bill Janes
 

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